How to move a cassette to a motor wheel with threads

[Nino1967]

Hello,

I removed the cassette with the tool.

How can I fit the cassette on the threads of the motor wheel it is not the same fitting.

On the first image, you can see the cassette near the threads of the motor wheel, I am trying to figure how to ?

Do I have to buy a cassette that has threads instead of a kind of fitting that was on the original wheel ? (image 2)

Thank you very much for your help !

 

[SL33]

Do I have to buy a cassette that has threads instead of a kind of fitting that was on the original wheel ? (image 2)

Yes have to buy a threaded casette, commonly called a Freewheel

 

[E-HP]

Hubs are designed to accept freewheels OR cassettes, not both. Your hub requires a freewheel, so you'll need to buy one, unless you return the hub for a cassette version.

 

[Nino1967]

Great ! Thank you so much for the reply, I will buy a freewheel.

You guys are fantastic for helping.

 

[Nino1967]

Hello guys,

I looked to buy a "thread-on freewheel" but all images look like "cassettes" as mine.

Are there threads behind the gears ? Do you have a link to suggest ? I have 9 gears on the cassette.

Thanks again.

 

[E-HP]

The spacing/axle length of most hub motors allow for a 7 speed freewheel. Fitting 9 speeds would likely require several additional washers on the drive side and stretching the frame dropouts to accommodate the additional width. Search on 7 speed freewheel.

 

[Nino1967]

Thanks again for the advices.
7 speed thread-on freewheel ordered.

 

[Chalo]

Thanks again for the advices.
7 speed thread-on freewheel ordered.

Note that you'll need a 7-speed shifter to work with the freewheel; your 9-speed shifter won't do it. You can use the same derailleur, though.

 

[Nino1967]

So, do you think it would be better to put a 9 freewheel with adding washers instead of changing the shifter ? If so, what kind, and how many washers you suggest ? Thanks so much.

 

[Chalo]

So, do you think it would be better to put a 9 freewheel with adding washers instead of changing the shifter ? If so, what kind, and how many washers you suggest ? Thanks so much.

Rear hub motors usually have extreme offset of the spoke flanges relative to the spacing between them. Adding more offset to fit an 8/9/10 speed freewheel can exaggerate this already serious problem to the point that the rim can't be brought to the center of the axle.

In the best case, hub motors make weak rear wheels. But they get radically weaker when you monkey with the axle spacing to fit a wider than intended freewheel. I'm not impressed with any rear hub motors on bicycles, but when I do install one, I don't do anything to the axle spacing that would make it even worse.

 

[E-HP]

So, do you think it would be better to put a 9 freewheel with adding washers instead of changing the shifter ? If so, what kind, and how many washers you suggest ? Thanks so much.

I think over time that you will find that you won't use many gears, especially the lower ones. While currently you may typically use low gears when (slowly) climbing a hill, with a hub motor, you want to keep the speed higher to avoid overheating, so you'll be using higher gears in order to contribute pedal power.

 

[lnanek]

Agreed. I have 75t on the front cog and a 7 speed 34t-11t on the back of my ebike. Have not used anything but the 11t for over a year. Just going to dump it for a 9t single speed freewheel soon since the only thing I don't like is ghost pedaling above 25mph.

 

[Chalo]

11t and smaller sprockets wear out your chain very quickly. Fake/ineffective pedaling at high speeds only makes extra drag, slowing you down and decreasing range. Don't bother with it, or with tiny sprockets.

 

[lnanek]

Nah, I get double the range pedaling at 25mph vs. not on a fat tire, sit up, rear hub bicycle. No way pedaling at 30 won't help too. If you are tiny cyclist, crouched down on a road bike going downhill, by all means, stop pedaling and go for maximum aerodynamics. Similarly if you are on an electric dirt bike that goes 50mph and just have fake pedals for legality, don't bother.

A typical ebike commuter is a flat wall, however, and pedaling vs. not is irrelevant for aerodynamics. Chain wear is also irrelevant for hub motor bicycles since my chain was $10 off Amazon and has lasted a year of 120 mile a week riding fine. Never change gears anyway and chain line is locked in place with chain guides, so if chain ever stretched I'd just remove a link. No need for precision chain length when you don't change gears. Mid drive folks need gears, hubs don't.