How To Videos.

Ypedal

100 TW
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
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Location
Moncton NB, Canada
Well.. since this is 2007 and most of us have digital cameras with video options.. FREE hosting on YouTube or Google is available and easy to use... ( Hell.. i'll even offer free hosting if need be for higher quality, as long as we keep it under 100 gb)

Personally i'd like to see someone replacing a FET on a circuit board

Any other requests ?
 
ha ha you should have said earlier!! i have done a few of them lately!! will do some how to vids soon as soon as I do something worthwhile!!

cheers

p
 
Hmmm

( Can someone fry a controller please.. we need one for knox ! lol ).. <- do not do this please..
:twisted:


On a serious note.. i'm not an engineer, i am however very visual by nature.. if i can see something done.. i'll give it a try. Soldering very small components on circuit boards is one of those things i want and need to learn.

I'll gladly do " Lace your own hub motor " in a month or so !!! :wink:
 
I'll gladly do " Lace your own hub motor " in a month or so !!!

I'm gonna hold ya to doing this video, ypedal. :) Lacing hubmotors is another skill I should learn.
 
Ypedal said:
...

Personally i'd like to see someone replacing a FET on a circuit board

...
Me too

Ypedal said:
...

On a serious note.. i'm not an engineer, i am however very visual by nature.. if i can see something done.. i'll give it a try. Soldering very small components on circuit boards is one of those things i want and need to learn.

...
Me too
 
i'll ask knoxie to replace my fets once i've burnt them !!!!
maybe we can get a video there :)
2 bottles of red cover your fee knoxie?


D
 
I just got done with one controller, and I'm not inclined to tear it apart again to make a video.

Anybody got a fried one?
Anybody except Knoxie....
 
Hi

I am sure one will fry in time! ha ha, I will make a show when I do the next one and modify the controller, those surface mounted chips resistors are hard to see with the eye its going to be fun showing how i solder them in!!

Cheers

Knoxie
 
hey knoxie,

been keeping a low profile lately,any more 72v vids ? :)

D
 
Hi Mate

Been very busy at work lately and my good lady friend needs a bit of tlc as well! ha ha 8)

For all those wanting videos I will be beefing up a xlyte controller with bigger fets and an adjustable current limit very shortly, the controller is stripped and ready to go and the fets are on order, I will do a video for all of you, I am also ordering in the 150V feta with a view to making a 100V controller as well with current limit.

Im very nearly at the point of making my own controller from scratch, I have a friend who has recently retired and he is a genius with circuit design and pic chips he has expressed an interest in designing a high voltage high power controller from the ground up! so thats good news, spec for me would be 130V at 60A, I think that would keep most of us happy for a while!! ha ha.

Going to beef the xlyte controllers first, also Mark from Team Hybrid is having some 120V 35A controllers made especially for his motors, exiting stuff indeed!!

Cheers

Knoxie
 
I see 0-50mph under 10 seconds in the future with a 130Vx60A controller

That might just do it depending on how much of that 7.8kw the x5 can convert to mechanical energy.

At 100% efficiency, and without taking into consideration wind resistance, 0-50mph in 10 seconds requires about 6.2 kw.

http://www.4qd.co.uk/faq/current.html

4 second 0-40mph is my goal, but that'd take about 12kw, which is probably a lot more than my 5304 can dish out. Darn, means I'd need to install a second 5304 on the front. :)
 
Would anyone care to predict what the next weakest link in this scenario would be?

Based on the assumption that only an X5/Phoenix hub motor could handle the high voltage/amperage that we're talking about.. I think that there is going to be alot of heat building up in them that will be conspiring to cut efficiency off at the knees. This motor is ripe for passive ventilation via re-designed side covers!

Since the side covers can be up to .035" out of whack but still considered, "within tolerance" from the factory.. they needed to go anyway.

I'll begin working on this end of the equation. Nothing but top gear, eh Knoxie? :D


-S
 
I think it could handle 12kw for 4 seconds. That's not long enough for it to overheat.

Lowell showed us that handling 60 amps is no problem, at least for short runs.

It would guess the next weakest link are the phase wires where they pass through the axle. At high current, the insulation might melt. High temp insulation (teflon) might be good here. Ventilating the side covers might be a real good idea too. This would help prevent moisture build-up inside. The vent holes should probably be covered with something that will keep particulates out, since there's plenty of rust and other road crap that would stick to the magnets if it got inside. I was thinking something like landscaping cloth or very fine screen might be good.

100v rated FETs can handle over 100A, but when you jump up to 150v rated FETs, I think you'd be limited to 35 - 40 amps by heat dissipation.
Additional cooling (fans, cooling fins, etc.) could boost that a bit, but I think the FETs will blow at around 40 amps regardless of cooling. We need better FETs. At higher voltages, most commercial controllers go to IGBT's. IGBT's have a higher inherent voltage drop and power dissipation, so a bigger heatsink is usually required.

You can find industrial surplus IGBT modules on Ebay and from some surplus places. Three of them could be used to make a controller. Here's one from Ebay:

IGBT CM300DY-24H Blocks
Rating: 1200V 300 Amp
Used In Good Cosmetic Shape
Disassembled Equipment
Datasheet: http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/cm300dy24h.pdf
 

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I think it could handle 12kw for 4 seconds. That's not long enough for it to overheat.

Lowell showed us that handling 60 amps is no problem, at least for short runs.

Assuming the frame was beefy enough, a dual 60-amp controller, dual x5 system could be a real small ICE road bike killer. As I recall, the Vectrix is 12kw and 125 volts.
 
I'm not sure if I'd want an X5 hub on the front wheel at high speeds.

I bought extra Andersons in blue, yellow and green, with the thought of using double connectors and upgraded wiring where it goes through the axle. High temp insulation would be a band aid, as it would be better if the wires didn't get hot to start with.

Vented side covers, well we'll see if they are needed or not. This kind of power would probably only be used for short bursts.
 
Mmmm... IGBTs :p

fechter said:
I would guess the next weakest link are the phase wires where they pass through the axle.

Right, I forgot about the wires (duh).. teflon insulation would keep them from melting down during sustained runs.

I'm visualizing a passive, positive pressure cooling side cover arrangement where the hole(s) in one side scoops the air in, and the other draws the hot air out.. effectively, an "active" cooling system when the hub motor gets spun-up. Essentially, these side covers would be exactly the same.. but mirrored since they would be mounted on opposite sides of the motor.

A metallic mesh glued to the inside of the cover should keep most road debris, moisture and small frogs from getting sucked in -while allowing air to flow freely. An Alltrax type pop-in cover could be installed for elemental exclusion when the weather gets wet and nasty.

Does this sound like a workable solution?


-S
 
Hmm.. i was thinking a simple rubber plug in the side cover would a good idea, for every day use simply keep the plug installed.. in the event you suspect water in your hub.. remove the plug and spin the motor up, centrifical force would whip the water out and then pop the plug back in.

The extreem power setups would need some serious torque arms.... :p
 
Yet *another* fine idea, Ypedal!

I would like to see a video of a C-lyte motor being taken apart and re-assembled. A companion instructable for "how to ventilate an X5" could then be added to that.

Let's find out what we can make this medium do for us. -S
 
Here's what I would try: a circle of holes around the edge of the side covers that lines up with the windings. Since the thing is so big, you could use pretty big holes (like 7/8 or 1"), and quite a few of them without worring about losing strength. If the holes are big enough, it won't take a blower to make lots of air go through them.
Then you could mount a stationary scoop on one side to catch the air and direct it into the side holes. I think just a scoop on one side would do it.
Maybe the scoop would be unnecessary.

One drawback would be if it was raining, quite a bit of rain might get in. If the insides (stator) were painted, I don't think a little rain water would really hurt anything. Any excess would drain out of the holes and the heat from the motor would tend to dry things out fairly quickly.

Personally, I don't like to ride in the rain anyway, but it should be made to take it.

Another whacky idea: It looks like there might be enough room between the spokes of the stator to mount a small fan internally. A bridge rectifier attached to the phase wires could pick up some power from the motor. You'd need some kind of voltage regulator for the fan, but it wouldn't be very big. If you went this route, the circle of holes on one side should line up with the fan.
 
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