If you can be sure of which are the main power wires to your display, you may be able to connect just those to your battery (leaving the rest of the wires that would go to the controller disconnected), and use it as just a meter and a headlight swithc (assuming your light ocnnects to it and not your controlller.) Many diisplays read the battery level themselves instead of having hte controller do it, so it might work.
There are what look like chinese characters marked next to the connectors on the display, if you can use the google translate app or similar to find out what they mean, they may help, or you can trace out or measure where hte wires go from the old controller's display connector to the battery, inside the controller itself, to make sure which ones are which.
There are cheap battery level meters out there, you'd just have to be sure you get the right one for your battery chemistry and number of cells in series.
The label on your battery suggests it's a 10-cell Lithium-Ion type that would be full at 42v and averages around 36v, so a voltmeter for a "lithium 36v" battery would probably work. These pages show a bunch of different types; I don't know that any specific one is suitable for your system, but I'm sure there is at least one that would be out of the list.
FWIW, the few things I've gotten by "DROK" have not failed yet, so ones like this
would probably work ok. That specific one is listed as for LiFEPO4, and your battery is probably not that kind, so it will probably not show you an accurate reading. But if you find one like it for Li-Ion / Li-Polymer (not LiFEPO4 / iron-phosphate) it would probably work (assuming that's the kind of battery you have).
I have this one
from aliexpress, but haven't started the project that it will be used on so don't know how well it works long-term (it did power on when it arrived and correctly detect the state of the batteries I connected it to, some close to empty, some full, etc).
If you want more info such as how much power you're using, actual Ah / Wh readings, etc, then meters like this
can give you that...I have that specific one and it works alright (not as accurate as my Cycle Analyst v3's) but it's not even remotely waterproof (or resistant), and it's more complicated to install than a simple battery voltmeter.