Chalo
100 TW
hypertoric_amplituhedron said:
Delusional. 37mph, maybe. 31mph in a sustained effort, maybe. Tailwinds and downhills alter the equation, of course.
Physics is a bitch.
Im going to say something very controvertial. SPEED.
- Thread starter Robocog
- Start date
Delusional. 37mph, maybe. 31mph in a sustained effort, maybe. Tailwinds and downhills alter the equation, of course.
Physics is a bitch.
hypertoric_amplituhedron,
I suggest buying a copy of Bicycling Science, by David Gordon Wilson.
https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/bicycling-science
Many folks see big numbers on their computers, but don't take into account the effect of a slight downgrade, or tailwind.
Indoor track records, over the last hundred years are most illustrative.
A roadracer is not going to do 30 mph indefinitely. The current record on a smooth, flat, windless track is 33.88 mph, for one hour.
Check out this great, accurate calculator.
http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
For a roadbike, in the drops, flat, no wind, 50 mph takes 2353 watts. A world class sprinter can do 2000 watts for seconds. A world class roadracer 1700 watts for seconds. And these folks are 3-4 times stronger than regular fit folks.
I suggest buying a copy of Bicycling Science, by David Gordon Wilson.
https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/bicycling-science
Many folks see big numbers on their computers, but don't take into account the effect of a slight downgrade, or tailwind.
Indoor track records, over the last hundred years are most illustrative.
A roadracer is not going to do 30 mph indefinitely. The current record on a smooth, flat, windless track is 33.88 mph, for one hour.
Check out this great, accurate calculator.
http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
For a roadbike, in the drops, flat, no wind, 50 mph takes 2353 watts. A world class sprinter can do 2000 watts for seconds. A world class roadracer 1700 watts for seconds. And these folks are 3-4 times stronger than regular fit folks.
hypertoric_amplituhedron
100 W
Chalo said:
Lol, Chalo, have you ridden a $12,000 race bike before? The sub 15lb full carbon everything, on tubulars? They're amazingly efficient. Exceptionally fast. Now, couple that to a top level cycling athlete (think Pro 1,2 category in the TDF) who have a 450 watt lactic threshold (effort level before getting tired), and a 2800 watts at VO2 max (max amt of oxygen that your lungs can absorb in full sprint). By 'indefinitely', I was of course talking about drafting in a pace line. But, 30 in a pace line is still a hard thing to do for a moderately fit cyclist. Those top level riders are still riding strong.
It's been my job to fix these bikes, and talk to their owners. 45 mph sprint on flat ground, with no wind is on the extreme end of fitness abilities. But, it's not impossible, and there are people who can do that. They typically ride 30~70mi every day with other very fast riders (the A groups). The bike shop I worked at for a long time had one of the first Vision Quest centers in the area, which uses training by power output. Lots of top athletes come to central florida to train seasonally. Training by power has been a big deal for a while, and I was right in the middle of it as the mechanic.
By the way, that's a neat calculator!
liveforphysics
100 TW
I didn't know it was possible for humans to hold ~30+mph for miles sustained until I was the pace-bike on my Zero DSR carrying a race official on the back.
Aero bike with a beast rider in aero riding gear can incredibly hold ~30mph on flat for 10s of miles straight.
Aero bike with a beast rider in aero riding gear can incredibly hold ~30mph on flat for 10s of miles straight.
eishethel
10 µW
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2016
- Messages
- 5
Hi!
...In my experience, there are several ranges of speed and kinetic energy levels.
pedestrian levels stop at about 4-6mph. Around people, keeping your speed within or lower than those ranges will prevent much worse impacts than if you were running.
bicycle levels are from about 6-16 mph. Most bicyclists are comfortable staying in this range, and it is safe to go this speed using bicycle facilities. It can cause a lot of danger to people if your run into them at this speed, or if you fall off, but it probably wont' break bones or severely hurt you if you wipe out.
Vehicle levels are upwards of 16. You have to plan your path, your attention shrinks to a narrower cone in front of you, attention must be paid to deceleration paths. Injury can happen, wind becomes an increasing issue.
35 mph is really fast if you're not wearing the correct gear. especially if something knocks you off the bike.
Kinetic energy is weird. so is drag. at 36 mph, a pessimistic value of energy being burned in drag is aprox 800w; most 750w hubs literally just don't have the oomph to go faster on the flat than 30-ish.
Back when I was in much better health, I could hold 25-ish mph on a 3speed for a while. currently, with a 750w bike geared for acceleration and torque, I can pull it up from 20 to 25 for a few hundred feet at a go. The extra speed does make cars less 'annoyed' feeling, and makes the relative motions a lot slower with plenty of time to react.
My first powered two wheeled transportation was a motomarina sebring which maxed out to 30mph. 45mph streets felt randomly almost lethal, as they seemed to think it was a motorcycle and I was being a slow jerk, rather than a moped rider going full out. -.-; Even 35 mph got impatient angry drivers. That 5 mph is almost no real increase in speed, but if a car driver isn't going right at the max speed posted, they get randomly rage-ey it seems.
But it was also very much into the 'vehicle' energy range at even 15 mph, and would have been dangerous/noxious in mixing with pedestrians even at 6 mph, so our aforementioned numbers are variable depending on driver+wheeled transport weight.
Speeds are important to keep relatively similar in mixed traffic, but remember that you're squishey and made out of a paper bag of meat; wear leathers if you're going to be going motorcycle speeds, your body will thank you the first accident you have~
...In my experience, there are several ranges of speed and kinetic energy levels.
pedestrian levels stop at about 4-6mph. Around people, keeping your speed within or lower than those ranges will prevent much worse impacts than if you were running.
bicycle levels are from about 6-16 mph. Most bicyclists are comfortable staying in this range, and it is safe to go this speed using bicycle facilities. It can cause a lot of danger to people if your run into them at this speed, or if you fall off, but it probably wont' break bones or severely hurt you if you wipe out.
Vehicle levels are upwards of 16. You have to plan your path, your attention shrinks to a narrower cone in front of you, attention must be paid to deceleration paths. Injury can happen, wind becomes an increasing issue.
35 mph is really fast if you're not wearing the correct gear. especially if something knocks you off the bike.
Kinetic energy is weird. so is drag. at 36 mph, a pessimistic value of energy being burned in drag is aprox 800w; most 750w hubs literally just don't have the oomph to go faster on the flat than 30-ish.
Back when I was in much better health, I could hold 25-ish mph on a 3speed for a while. currently, with a 750w bike geared for acceleration and torque, I can pull it up from 20 to 25 for a few hundred feet at a go. The extra speed does make cars less 'annoyed' feeling, and makes the relative motions a lot slower with plenty of time to react.
My first powered two wheeled transportation was a motomarina sebring which maxed out to 30mph. 45mph streets felt randomly almost lethal, as they seemed to think it was a motorcycle and I was being a slow jerk, rather than a moped rider going full out. -.-; Even 35 mph got impatient angry drivers. That 5 mph is almost no real increase in speed, but if a car driver isn't going right at the max speed posted, they get randomly rage-ey it seems.
But it was also very much into the 'vehicle' energy range at even 15 mph, and would have been dangerous/noxious in mixing with pedestrians even at 6 mph, so our aforementioned numbers are variable depending on driver+wheeled transport weight.
Speeds are important to keep relatively similar in mixed traffic, but remember that you're squishey and made out of a paper bag of meat; wear leathers if you're going to be going motorcycle speeds, your body will thank you the first accident you have~
Pacelining groups are more dangerous that a single person an e-bike. We quit doing big, organized rides years ago, because of these wackos. The last straw was one of the biggest century rides on the east coast...very popular because it is almost dead flat. Thousands of people would show up for this thing. There was every level of performance, and experience. The locals would hide for the weekend. The roads were totally taken over by bikes. We did this ride several years in a row. Each year there were horrendous accidents. The last time we saw a guy drop a water bottle into his wheel, and do a face plant, within the first mile. Twenty five miles in, a guy in the middle of a paceline touched the guy in front of him, and shot out perpendicular to the line, into an embankment. My wife, and I, riding along the far right edge of the road, were almost piled into by a ten person line, riding at 30 mph. The fool in the front had his head down, and ten people were counting on him to keep them safe. We both saw them closing fast, in our mirrors, and shouted, "Look out!" He looked up just in time, and they passed us with inches to spare. His ego was clearly shaken, and he yelled at us to get to, "Get hell off the road." Later a helicopter was called in to take away another paceline rider.
Humans have poor judgement. It gets worse in a pack situation. Drafting makes sense for autonomous vehicles, with unemotional computers in charge. It has no place on public roadways. The line is much longer than a single e-bike, the reaction time is multiplied greatly, and the requirement for multiple people to make the right decision, in seconds, makes the chances of error soar.
Humans have poor judgement. It gets worse in a pack situation. Drafting makes sense for autonomous vehicles, with unemotional computers in charge. It has no place on public roadways. The line is much longer than a single e-bike, the reaction time is multiplied greatly, and the requirement for multiple people to make the right decision, in seconds, makes the chances of error soar.
I can ABSOLUTELY ATTEST to that assessment of human nature. I HATE riding my superbike in a pack. I did four, and maybe five, no prob. If they were not hotheads.
It is doubly bad if some are back of hand familiar with route, and others not. Some equipment top notch, some cobbled, and untested to limits.
Just like, I will not drive fast, with another in the car, unless that is all I am doing.
It is doubly bad if some are back of hand familiar with route, and others not. Some equipment top notch, some cobbled, and untested to limits.
Just like, I will not drive fast, with another in the car, unless that is all I am doing.
I love riding. I love riding anything-- and even more when there's a motor or engine attached.
I've ridden and owned bikes at every level of performance. From big bagger Harleys to a Ducati 998R. I've owned bicycles of every level of performance, including a 27 lb. mountain bike (now equipped with a BBSHD) to a $10,000 Colnago.
The problem has rarely been operator error when there's an incident. It's other drivers not seeing you, not expecting to see you, or on a cell phone, or plain stupidity--- or it's bike failure or inadequate mechanical fitness.
The e-bike problem is two-fold. You incur all of the normal risks cyclists face-- and I have one friend (former racer) who spent a few years rehabbing a knee after a driver cut him off making a right-- plus you incur the danger that drivers don't expect a bicycle to be traveling at 40mph on the road. They assume you are slower, so they pull out in front of you and the next thing you know, you're squeezing every ounce of friction out of your brake pads to avoid a collision.
Now add to that the mechanical limitations. Even the best two piston hydraulic caliper disc brakes with 200+ mm discs aren't great for fast stops at speed. If you are lucky enough to get the wheels to stop spinning, there's not enough rubber on the road to slow the missile, you're gonna skid.
You can beef up a bicycle all you want. Unless you're riding a fat bike without knobbies, the contact patch is not much of a match for 50-70 pounds of bike + rider weight traveling at 50 mph. Your 50 to 0 stopping distance sucks.
Another issue is suspension. Most of the bikes are made to go in a straight line fast, or go downhill fast absorbing the rough, without a whole lot of consideration for cornering. My C-40 is geared to do 50mph down a mountainside (It's a bitch to climb with). But carbon fiber can fail. When it does, it happens very fast, with no warning, and you're gonna feel it. Steel and aluminum are better as far as taking stress, and some handle cornering on dirt quite well. Change the surface to asphalt? Meh.
Add power to a frame that wasn't designed to take as much torque as we are putting to the wheels. When you have to put in a torque arm to handle the load, well, you get the idea.
Bicycle helmets don't offer near the same protection as their motorcycle counterparts. And how many cyclists (and e-cyclists) are cruising around in leather kevlar suits? Zero.
However freeing, this isn't the safest arrangement and you're kidding yourself to think otherwise. I'm fully aware when I jump on the throttle, the risk quotient multiplies.
Do what you want. Live your life and accept your risk. But don't cry or complain when you're in the hospital. You earned it.
Peace.
I've ridden and owned bikes at every level of performance. From big bagger Harleys to a Ducati 998R. I've owned bicycles of every level of performance, including a 27 lb. mountain bike (now equipped with a BBSHD) to a $10,000 Colnago.
The problem has rarely been operator error when there's an incident. It's other drivers not seeing you, not expecting to see you, or on a cell phone, or plain stupidity--- or it's bike failure or inadequate mechanical fitness.
The e-bike problem is two-fold. You incur all of the normal risks cyclists face-- and I have one friend (former racer) who spent a few years rehabbing a knee after a driver cut him off making a right-- plus you incur the danger that drivers don't expect a bicycle to be traveling at 40mph on the road. They assume you are slower, so they pull out in front of you and the next thing you know, you're squeezing every ounce of friction out of your brake pads to avoid a collision.
Now add to that the mechanical limitations. Even the best two piston hydraulic caliper disc brakes with 200+ mm discs aren't great for fast stops at speed. If you are lucky enough to get the wheels to stop spinning, there's not enough rubber on the road to slow the missile, you're gonna skid.
You can beef up a bicycle all you want. Unless you're riding a fat bike without knobbies, the contact patch is not much of a match for 50-70 pounds of bike + rider weight traveling at 50 mph. Your 50 to 0 stopping distance sucks.
Another issue is suspension. Most of the bikes are made to go in a straight line fast, or go downhill fast absorbing the rough, without a whole lot of consideration for cornering. My C-40 is geared to do 50mph down a mountainside (It's a bitch to climb with). But carbon fiber can fail. When it does, it happens very fast, with no warning, and you're gonna feel it. Steel and aluminum are better as far as taking stress, and some handle cornering on dirt quite well. Change the surface to asphalt? Meh.
Add power to a frame that wasn't designed to take as much torque as we are putting to the wheels. When you have to put in a torque arm to handle the load, well, you get the idea.
Bicycle helmets don't offer near the same protection as their motorcycle counterparts. And how many cyclists (and e-cyclists) are cruising around in leather kevlar suits? Zero.
However freeing, this isn't the safest arrangement and you're kidding yourself to think otherwise. I'm fully aware when I jump on the throttle, the risk quotient multiplies.
Do what you want. Live your life and accept your risk. But don't cry or complain when you're in the hospital. You earned it.
Peace.
dogman dan
1 PW
Summed it up perfect reeltime. Your comments explain why I finally went back to the gas motorcycle for going faster. Legal and insured to go speed limits. Keep up with traffic, tires that can stop me, etc. Still don't trust anybody else out on the road.
I ride my e bike 30 mph max, and really, most of the time ride about 18 mph. At that speed, I just won't get surprised by that right cross. I do this on streets where this is possible and safe enough. They may be whizzing by me at 60 mph, but not 5 a minute, and not with me in their lane. Good shoulder to ride on when they are passing me is needed, or bike that can dirt ride it for as long as I need.
Luckily for me,, safe enough routes abound in my town, including a pretty good set of bike paths, and a network of dirt paths along irrigation ditches.
I ride my e bike 30 mph max, and really, most of the time ride about 18 mph. At that speed, I just won't get surprised by that right cross. I do this on streets where this is possible and safe enough. They may be whizzing by me at 60 mph, but not 5 a minute, and not with me in their lane. Good shoulder to ride on when they are passing me is needed, or bike that can dirt ride it for as long as I need.
Luckily for me,, safe enough routes abound in my town, including a pretty good set of bike paths, and a network of dirt paths along irrigation ditches.
MadRhino
100 GW
@ reeltime
I will not get into discussing every point, but braking distance is a specialty of mine and your perception is so wrong that I have to correct.
Let's assume that a car, a motorcycle, a moped and a bicycle are equipped with good brakes and adequate tires for their weight category, operated by average pilot on dry pavement.
At 50 Mph the motorcycle will brake shorter than a car, the moped shorter than a motorcycle and the bicycle shorter than a moped. This is a simple matter of weight and friction relationship. Now consider a sub 100 lbs ebike that is on 3 inch tires of 60A gum hardness, from 50 Mph it will brake 30% shorter than a motorcycle equipped with the very best. I do it everyday and every time, I have never tried or met a motorcycle that can stop shorter than my ebike. In fact, I can outstop them so bad that I need to make sure there is no one behind. Then, even with my optimised braking distance, a plain pedal bike with good brakes and tires can stop shorter than han I. That is a simple relationship between weight and friction.
I will not get into discussing every point, but braking distance is a specialty of mine and your perception is so wrong that I have to correct.
Let's assume that a car, a motorcycle, a moped and a bicycle are equipped with good brakes and adequate tires for their weight category, operated by average pilot on dry pavement.
At 50 Mph the motorcycle will brake shorter than a car, the moped shorter than a motorcycle and the bicycle shorter than a moped. This is a simple matter of weight and friction relationship. Now consider a sub 100 lbs ebike that is on 3 inch tires of 60A gum hardness, from 50 Mph it will brake 30% shorter than a motorcycle equipped with the very best. I do it everyday and every time, I have never tried or met a motorcycle that can stop shorter than my ebike. In fact, I can outstop them so bad that I need to make sure there is no one behind. Then, even with my optimised braking distance, a plain pedal bike with good brakes and tires can stop shorter than han I. That is a simple relationship between weight and friction.
dogman dan
1 PW
That is true. The weight matters, and motorcycles with pedals are crazy light.
On the other hand, if you think brakes are going to really save your life in a bad situation,, you may be wrong. I mean just locking it up and hoping it's enough. More better to brake hard, then begin maneuvering for your life, often meaning grabbing full throttle.
No car ever turned left and hit me. I can turn left better than they can. Usually have to turn right again, then thread the needle.
On the other hand, if you think brakes are going to really save your life in a bad situation,, you may be wrong. I mean just locking it up and hoping it's enough. More better to brake hard, then begin maneuvering for your life, often meaning grabbing full throttle.
No car ever turned left and hit me. I can turn left better than they can. Usually have to turn right again, then thread the needle.
I see what you guys are saying, a heavy thing does have more kinetic energy to dissipate in order to slow down, but it also has greater tyre friction due to the greater downforce from that weight.
I don't know how a moped compares to a motorcycle or a moped to a bicycle, but pretty much anything with 4 wheels famously out-brakes (and out-turns) something with 2. This makes sense because on a paved road braking on a 2-wheel is usually limited by stability (endo) not front tyre grip. I would imagine a bicycle is relatively poor compared to a sports motorcycle as the short wheelbase combined bike being light compared to the rider, who's perched up high, giving a high centre of gravity is probably more liable to tip up.
I don't know how a moped compares to a motorcycle or a moped to a bicycle, but pretty much anything with 4 wheels famously out-brakes (and out-turns) something with 2. This makes sense because on a paved road braking on a 2-wheel is usually limited by stability (endo) not front tyre grip. I would imagine a bicycle is relatively poor compared to a sports motorcycle as the short wheelbase combined bike being light compared to the rider, who's perched up high, giving a high centre of gravity is probably more liable to tip up.
From what I have read over the years, a vehicle, without aerodynamic downforce, can't do better than 1 G. It is the force of gravity which provides the braking force to the tire against the pavement. Assuming the tires are sticky enough, and the brakes are strong enough, you can get 1 G. This means, it doesn't matter how light your bike is. At racing speeds, a car or bike can be designed to produce extra downforce. At the speeds most of us will, hopefully, be doing in traffic, that won't be a factor. Imagine a diagram of a vehicle from the side. It has two circles for wheels, and a rectangle for a chassis. You place a crosshairs symbol on this rectangle to represent the CG location fore and aft, and top to bottom. Draw a line from the front tire contact patch back at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal. If the CG falls on that line, or behind it, you can theoretically pull 1 G. If it is ahead of that line, not happening. It will flip over before you hit 1 G. Most conventional bicycles, and motorcycles have a CG, with rider, ahead of that line.
If anybody can give us a link that demonstrates a way around the physics, I'm eager to read it.
I know you will be able to show smartphone G force readings higher than 1 G. I just want a good explanation of how this works.
If anybody can give us a link that demonstrates a way around the physics, I'm eager to read it.
I know you will be able to show smartphone G force readings higher than 1 G. I just want a good explanation of how this works.
MadRhino
100 GW
Let's agree that cars are easier to drive than bikes are to ride.
A bike CAN beat a car for braking distance, but the average bike rider is much less competent at it than the average car driver. Also, while most cars are factory tuned for adequate braking distance, many motorcycles are not. I often see bikes that are very far from being tuned for optimal braking, would it be only by poor tire choice and/or PSI.
Yet, when you make a mistake, the bike is much less likely to go kill someone else on the street. The bike is dangerous for the rider, the car is dangerous for everyone around. Or should I say "everyone on the planet". :wink:
Now, as for any other vehicle type, bikes can be very different from one another. No one could imagine that a car could catch up with or maneuver quicker than a Trial motorcycle, no matter if they are in a city or off road; but it is easy to figure a small AWD car beating a big chopper on a gravel road.
If you don't feel safe on your home made bike, it is probably because you are not, and it would be good to improve your building (and/or riding) skills.
A bike CAN beat a car for braking distance, but the average bike rider is much less competent at it than the average car driver. Also, while most cars are factory tuned for adequate braking distance, many motorcycles are not. I often see bikes that are very far from being tuned for optimal braking, would it be only by poor tire choice and/or PSI.
Yet, when you make a mistake, the bike is much less likely to go kill someone else on the street. The bike is dangerous for the rider, the car is dangerous for everyone around. Or should I say "everyone on the planet". :wink:
Now, as for any other vehicle type, bikes can be very different from one another. No one could imagine that a car could catch up with or maneuver quicker than a Trial motorcycle, no matter if they are in a city or off road; but it is easy to figure a small AWD car beating a big chopper on a gravel road.
If you don't feel safe on your home made bike, it is probably because you are not, and it would be good to improve your building (and/or riding) skills.
motomech
10 MW
My experience w/ road racing motorcycles is 4 wheels can stop much harder than bikes.Punx0r said:
For example, I once shared practice track time w/ some 125cc super carts while I was on a Honda RS125 GP. Horsepower was about the same, but the carts were quite a bit faster around the track, mostly due to how hard they could slow down and accelerate intionally out of corners. And it wasn't because I was a wobbly geek(which I was), the pros couldn't hang w/ the carts either.
Ykick
1 GW
There is so much more “wrong” with the skills (lack of) and riding knowledge this rider displays - but it sorta reminded me of this talk about moto braking.
http://www.rightthisminute.com/video/rtmtv-biker-loses-ride-epic-highway-crash-and-burn
Please don’t ride like this guy. And I’m not talking about “lane sharing” which is a very safe and useful thing, IMO. I’m talking about lane sharing too fast and then being unable to maneuver and/or brake properly.
If you learn nothing else today please take a moment to think about “object fixation” and realize the best way to avoid running into something is:
LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. Or, your best escape route.
Looking at what you're about to run-into will practically guarantee you’ll crash into it rather avoid it.
http://www.rightthisminute.com/video/rtmtv-biker-loses-ride-epic-highway-crash-and-burn
Please don’t ride like this guy. And I’m not talking about “lane sharing” which is a very safe and useful thing, IMO. I’m talking about lane sharing too fast and then being unable to maneuver and/or brake properly.
If you learn nothing else today please take a moment to think about “object fixation” and realize the best way to avoid running into something is:
LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. Or, your best escape route.
Looking at what you're about to run-into will practically guarantee you’ll crash into it rather avoid it.
motomech
10 MW
Reeltime wrote;
Or I'm just getting old
I owned a scooter/moped shop and have ridden hundreds of them and I think they felt more stable @ 25mph to 30 mph than my Ebikes. Both of my Ebikes are based on cross-country mountain bikes and have suspensions way better than any 50cc moped/scooter and I attribute the twitchyness of my ebikes to their steep fork rake and resultant short trail. I think maybe downhill mountain bikes might be better w/ their more relaxed geometry.
Or I'm just getting old
MadRhino
100 GW
You are right, geometry is a major factor in a bike's handling, stability and "brakeability". It is easy to understand that when you are not able to position your own weight adequately for a given situation, you will be handicaped dealing with it.
motomech
10 MW
Using the bike lanes;
Yes, it does take awhile to get accustomed to the cars wizzing by, but as time goes by, I'm learning to make better use of the bicycle path system here.
Tucson is consistently rated in the top 10 biking cities and some of the reasons are;
1)Interactive route maps on the Net. Additional maps indicating the routes w/ the least amount of traffic.
2) This is new to me, intersections are being equipped w/ bicyclist activated control. The signal boxes are on the curb, facing the rider.
3)"Share the Road" campaigns.
Nothing is perfect and if I don't feel comfortable(or the path "peters out", I have been known to get up on the sidewalks. But only if there are no "ped.s".
Yes, it does take awhile to get accustomed to the cars wizzing by, but as time goes by, I'm learning to make better use of the bicycle path system here.
Tucson is consistently rated in the top 10 biking cities and some of the reasons are;
1)Interactive route maps on the Net. Additional maps indicating the routes w/ the least amount of traffic.
2) This is new to me, intersections are being equipped w/ bicyclist activated control. The signal boxes are on the curb, facing the rider.
3)"Share the Road" campaigns.
Nothing is perfect and if I don't feel comfortable(or the path "peters out", I have been known to get up on the sidewalks. But only if there are no "ped.s".
eishethel
10 µW
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2016
- Messages
- 5
MadRhino said:
With the bike I'm using, sitting flat on the saddle or forward at all, and the wheels will slide under hard full braking. leaning back just a bit at the right angle and holding the seat with my legs, suddenly I'm braking even harder with no slip. It's a lot like my old moped, but utterly not the same in a bunch of other ways.
Comprehension of what one is doing is essential at higher speeds. Much less time to figure it on on the fly, and that's what a lot of riders seem to do.
I utterly hate 20 and 30 as max speeds of vehicle limit. they are an offset that has caused more random four wheeler RATEHAET than anything has a right to.
There is nothing quite so pissy as someone who wants and DEMANDS to go that extra 5mph, so they can go that extra 5mph over that and go faster. I think it has something to do with humans high speed fight or flight mode and car speeds that does the jeckyl/hyde reaction. But regardless, it turns otherwise normal and nice people into cussing ragefilled ragedemons. Over something that would add an extra 45 seconds to their overall travel time.
...hoomans.
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motomech said:Reeltime wrote;
I owned a scooter/moped shop and have ridden hundreds of them and I think they felt more stable @ 25mph to 30 mph than my Ebikes. Both of my Ebikes are based on cross-country mountain bikes and have suspensions way better than any 50cc moped/scooter and I attribute the twitchyness of my ebikes to their steep fork rake and resultant short trail. I think maybe downhill mountain bikes might be better w/ their more relaxed geometry.
Or I'm just getting old
You are a genius. I have been thinking of my excuse for using a 36mm fox fork, with 160 travel, and dropping the rear sag, on a PSEUDO downhill bike. When you say it, I AM A GENIUS.
And, I am REALLY a genius, as the bike I am using, is steep so, it will be plush, and stable. And yet good turner. The bike was known to have too high a B bracket, so drooping the rear, also retains ground clearance. IT IS PERFECT.
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