Is the Turnigy 10AWG wire an issue?

EBJ

1 kW
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Jun 9, 2011
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Berkeley
So I will have a 36V (10S) 15Ah (or maybe 20) Lipo pack.
Made from x6 Turnigy 5S 5Ah (5000mAh) 20C packs.

I noticed the wire-guage is only 10AWG w/ the 4mm bullets.
Can the 10AWG wire really take the current a 20C battery can dish out ??


With my set-up I expect to be pulling: between 50-100 Amps w/ a peak of maybe 150-200A from my 36V 15Ah 20C pack.

What are you guys doing to counter this?

Thanks.
 
If you're using a 15AH pack, the current is split into 1/3rd to the packs.
For best results i would say an 8 gauge wire to the stock 10 gauge wires would be best for you.

30_monsterparallel.jpg


Like so, but with a 8 gauge, or even fatter discharge end if you're going over a few feet.

See the calculator at the bottom of this page:

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
 
I run 4awg, or two passes of 4awg.


BUT, you don't need to match your wire to what the battery is capable of drawing, you just need to match it to what your actual controller will be pulling. So, even if your batts are able to do 1000amps, but you've go at 20amp controller, you only need to wire it up for 20amps. If you're doing a lot of low-speed operation, make your motor phase wires bigger, hopefully twice the size of your battery wires.
 
Oh, another thing:

Where do you guys like buying wire?
I think I'd be pretty hard pressed to find #4awg wire at any local stores.
 
lol, well look at the calculator dude. You don't need 4AWG. Luke is talking about some crazy shit setup.. either pumping 10kW through a crystalyte motor or burning rubber on a what, 650 amp brushed motor?

6-8awg would be fine for your setup as long as you're only using a few feet.
I got my wiring from a local car store, lol.. pure thick stranded copper, you could wire a house with it hehe.
 
If you are in the USA then I really like the 4 gauge wire from Mcmaster Carr that is flexible and made of synthetic rubber. I think the black is part number 6948K921, comes in red too. It pretty high strand count too. Good to 105C.
 
I was just looking at a wire gauge awg amp-chart and 10awg was rated to 55A while 4awg was rated to something like 130A.
Are those figures just way to "safe" ? Because I'll be running about 2.4 or 3.2 Kw ...something around 85-100A w/ peaks of 150-200ish.
 
magudaman said:
If you are in the USA then I really like the 4 gauge wire from Mcmaster Carr that is flexible and made of synthetic rubber. I think the black is part number 6948K921, comes in red too. It pretty high strand count too. Good to 105C.

Thanks for that. I use McMaster often and I pay an arm and a leg for it.
 
EBJ said:
I was just looking at a wire gauge awg amp-chart and 10awg was rated to 55A while 4awg was rated to something like 130A.
Are those figures just way to "safe" ? Because I'll be running about 2.4 or 3.2 Kw ...something around 85-100A w/ peaks of 150-200ish.

Those are continuous numbers...our continuous numbers are usually only around 1500 watts so that's 30a at 50v though it may peak at 200 amps. I was surprised tonight doing some battery testing at 30a through 14 gauge wire and it was pretty damn hot after an hour. There is also the general voltage loss over the length of wire which is less significant at low lengths.
 
EBJ said:
I was just looking at a wire gauge awg amp-chart and 10awg was rated to 55A while 4awg was rated to something like 130A.
Are those figures just way to "safe" ? Because I'll be running about 2.4 or 3.2 Kw ...something around 85-100A w/ peaks of 150-200ish.

It completely depends on the length of wire. The lengths in that chart are going to be quite long compared to what you'll use.

Don't look at the chart, look at the calculator near the bottom of the page.
 
So you reckon I should get rid of my RC 12AWG Cable that I have on my main phase wires to my HS35 motor and 45amp controller?

Probably lol... I'll stick 10AWG on it later tonight.
 
LFP just hates sag. 8) In terms of will your wire get hot. 12 guage can deal with 40 amps of 72, if you don't hate a few volts of sag. Generally, if the wires are getting hot, a flaming hot crappy connector is doing most of the heating. That statement applies to a typical fast ebike, such as a 72v 40 amp controller.

Out where LFP goes in wattage, you do need honking fat wire.
 
Spacey said:
So you reckon I should get rid of my RC 12AWG Cable that I have on my main phase wires to my HS35 motor and 45amp controller?

Probably lol... I'll stick 10AWG on it later tonight.

Stock, the H series motor is 13g phase wires. Did you have any trouble stuffing 12g plus the hall wires into one? Think 10g is doable without too much grinding on the axle?
 
nicobie said:
Spacey said:
So you reckon I should get rid of my RC 12AWG Cable that I have on my main phase wires to my HS35 motor and 45amp controller?

Probably lol... I'll stick 10AWG on it later tonight.

Stock, the H series motor is 13g phase wires. Did you have any trouble stuffing 12g plus the hall wires into one? Think 10g is doable without too much grinding on the axle?


We put 8awg through my axle. :) I would call the grinding extensive though.
 
Sorry, I didn't explain myself that well.... I've kept the original bell wire in the hub but just soldered 12 Awg wire from that to the controller.
 
EBJ, what application, parts, etc exactly are you going to use ?

My RC bike runs an HV110 controller at 48v 100 amps, double 12 awg silicone wire from hobbyking does the trick with ease.. Using anderson PP45 connectors ( again, doubled up ) .. and no melting anything on my bike.. it's easy to work with.. starg going to 4 gauge wire and running lenghts of it along a bike frame and getting proper connectors on there becomes a bigger more expensive project than it has to be.

But again, it all comes down to exactly what parts you plan to use and how you plan to use them.. vehicle weight, motor , controller ( brushed or brushless ? ) .. on or off road..
 
Ypedal said:
EBJ, what application, parts, etc exactly are you going to use ?

My RC bike runs an HV110 controller at 48v 100 amps, double 12 awg silicone wire from hobbyking does the trick with ease.. Using anderson PP45 connectors ( again, doubled up ) .. and no melting anything on my bike.. it's easy to work with.. starg going to 4 gauge wire and running lenghts of it along a bike frame and getting proper connectors on there becomes a bigger more expensive project than it has to be.

But again, it all comes down to exactly what parts you plan to use and how you plan to use them.. vehicle weight, motor , controller ( brushed or brushless ? ) .. on or off road..

Thanks. I'm still not entirely sure what I will be going with. Right now I'm just working on purchasing all of the battery-parts. After hearing what you and a few others have said i will likely just be doubling-up on some 10 or 12awg
 
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