issues finding hall sensor combenations using svmc72150 and revolt 120 pro motor

What’s your total gearing? I think i ran 11/65 to 26” wheel or thereabouts back in the day - on a two wheeler. What’s your voltage? It seems to make an awful lot of noise and goes slow?

Try lower the phase amp to 300 and battery to 150 so you’re at 1:2, see if it lowers the controller heating.

Can you post a video running the motor at noload? Without chain connected so it can be heard.

Going from upgearing via chain to downgearing in variator will make you lose a lot before the rear wheel. Why not just use chain? Variators are already from the start pretty unefficient.
 
the total lowest gearing is really low,
its 0.0777 at the gear box after the variator, the variator is about 1:3 i asume (not sure about this one) and the chain is 2.15 so its 0.0556 lowest ratio and 0.167 high ratio

i kept the variator becuse it allowed me to get very low gearing and still have decent top end
voltage is 80V, the buggy is about 300KG i think the taier is

can it be that this motor is just to weak for the aplecation? should i keep going and get the second esc or is it a wast?
ill upload a vid with the motor spining with no load in acouple of hours
 
yes thats the gearing give or take .. should give about 60 KM/H top speed and have the power as if it was geared for 20 at low speeds
isssue is the motor really heats up, i limited the rated current to 80 and the phase to 200
went for a drive and saw that it pulled around 60 amps flored, it felt abit weaker and the motor is as hot still
maybe its too much load for it? should i gear it even lower for 53 km/h? (i have the sprokets for that, itll be 1:6.9 - 1:20.6)
maybe when ill add the second motor it wont heat up as much?

theres somthing i dont undersstand fully, if im limiting the motor to 80 amps, how come its runing hot?
and if i add another motor, well i accelrate twice as fast and heat up both motors, or well the load split betwin in a way and then none of them well heat up?
 
the KV is about 43 (im geting 3460 RPM at 80V)
think i should play abit more with the sensor? maybe re-zero it? maybe i zeroed it using the wrong phase wired? the other phase wires i tried gave worse results (self learn well fail consistently)

did you use an FOC controller like that sabvoton or did you use a plan simple unbranded controller?
 
I had several controllers with the encoder, there wasn’t any issues. It generates perfect signals based on the magnet position but if timing is not correct then it won’t work.

I have checked timing on motors from way too retarded to way too ahead and it can be heard, if you’re a lot off at least. Could you upload a video running it in noload?

What you can do is to mark your current position of encoder, make a test run, then try to turn body 5 deg forward and 5 deg backward. Check noload battery current on these tests.

I had noload current at 6.5A at 3500rpm, if you’re close to this then sensor is about correct.
 
its the 14 pole
i played with the sensores and timing again and got it to spin pretty smoth(to a point i cant hear any issue)
here is a vid of it with no load
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzlga0jgZ3g
no load current is about 6.5A in my case too
i atempted to change the timing abit from the controller but didnt see much improvement
took it for a dtive, it took around 50A from the battry when maxed and when i got back after about a minut of driving around. the motor was so hot that the windings got soft
50A from the battry at 80V is just 4KW, thats pathetic from a motor rated at 6KW and 15KW peak
this test was dont while the phase current was limited to 200A and the batt current was set to 80A
im gonna try to lower the gearing, then ill try the second motor i have .. mybe this one has another hidden issue(thou i kinda dout it at this point)
one thing i dont get is, if im limiting the motor to a current its rated for, and the load is so high that it cant rev all the way to max rpm ... should it worm up? or should it just stop accelrating?
thanks for the help!
 
That sounds ok and the noload is ok to. I think it won’t get much better than this.. still strange it gets so hot with your high gearing, even if revolts are wildly overspeced motors of low quality.

I’d buy a QS 138 90h any day instead of putting efforts into connecting the second motor. It’s true high power and will last a loong time.
 
it cooled down and now it developed a wired vibration and the current consumption is 12A, i asume its eather hurt or the sensor is off again(i tryed recalibrating and it didnt help)

im looking in to alterntives, sadly the shiping price for the qs motors to my area is the same as the motor itself, and a single motor wont cut it ... its more affordable to buy a motorcycle and take the engine from it sadly,
itll work but its not the way i wanted this to end
 
its the same controller ive been using since i installed the external sensors
it worked better then this just before the over heating ..
plus it should be a very good controller (sabvoton 72150)
 
idk man ... i tryed 4 controllers with this motor before i changed to the external sensors
i can try the other controller but you think it well solve the issue? for me it just feels like the motor is just too weak, and im kinda douting ill get any decent proformnce out of the 2 of them
im aiming for this buggy to be fast and fun .. so far its bearly as fast as a golf kart
 
It's only to get ruled out that the sabvoton is part of the issue - i don't really think it is but if you're going another direction than the revolts then better be sure. I do recommend the QS mid drives, been using one for years at high power.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
RV-160 Pro not running properly.
Replies
4
Views
845
amberwolf
amberwolf
macribs
Revolt Rv-120 Pro Is this motor for real?
Replies
22
Views
6,929
riba2233
riba2233
Back
Top