kegel abs pulley from ebay

H

Hummina Shadeeba

1 MW
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
2,803
Location
Sausalito
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orangatang-Kegel-Electric-Skateboard-Pulley-Kit-/231522358955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e7ced6ab

I bought one.
anyone ever use it or have any knowledge about abs or this one in particular?


it says:
1x ABS 36 tooth 5mm HTD wheel side pulley
1x Aluminium 16 tooth, 2 flange, 6mm bore size, 5mm HTD, drive side pulley
1x 5mm HTD pulley, 59 groove, 9mm width and 256mm pitch length

it seems to come with both pulleys and I think the belt but the belt says 9mm and I'm confused.



PLease tell me again where or what's the formula for finding the belt length with two known pulley sizes and distance between them. I never remember long enough to finish this process

I wont use the drive pulley that comes with this since it's 6mm and I need 8mm. Do you think I'll be under-geared with a 36x a 24 tooth? with a tacon 160 63mm motor at 245kv with 30volts? I do have hills and am finding I'm not the speed demon I thought I might be and my board is creepy at above 20mph. If I convert it to wye and get it to 170kv would that be better?
 
it would be 9mm wide, 5mm pitch.

Use this website for the centre distances: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/CenterDistanceDesigner

Edit: Didn't see the wye sentence, but yes it would be. Relatively simple mod I have done a few times for various builds myself. Making the lower kv means you can use a higher voltage for the same speed gearing, reducing the load on the esc/motor. It's basically identical to running a slower wind motor of the same size.
 
Hey Hummina, If that comes with 2 pulleys and the belt then that's a good deal.

I can't remember the exact thread but I believe the person who designed these was working on them through Endless Sphere with a couple of other people, hopefully they will chime in later.

If I remember correctly the end result was...the plastic gear wasn't durable enough for prolonged use. Some broke due to torsion inside the hub where the bolts drive through, and some got their teeth stripped by improper belt tension.

Might explain why they are selling so cheap. Then again, i'd really like to see these work well for you.

as far as the belt goes, it's 5mm tooth size (eboard standard), 9mm wide belt (also pretty standard for e-boards, some have been going 15mm wide lately) The length of the belt is 256mm which seems on the short end imo. I think I use 5mm HTD 9mm-280mm on my 16T/44T and it sits dead center on the motor mount. 256mm will mean that your motor will, if you have an adjustable motor mount, slide towards your wheel a little more.

Having your motor and your wheel close is actually a good thing, but too close can be bad news bears.

Also, this gearing/power is more suited for flat land. You'll be able to do some moderate grades due to your motor, but be wary of burning out your ESC. Dual motor systems have the advantage of splitting that peak amp draw between 2 ESC during a hill climb/start from stop. It's more essential for a single motor system to have proper gearing for hills, higher voltage, good ESC.

For example I have a similar single 63mm 245kv motor pushing 37volts running through a 120 amp ESC. I have decent torque with 16/44 gearing. I climbed a 4 story hill with various grades of incline twice, and my ESC was about to melt through the ground like Alien blood. If you did that with your setup as a 245kv pushing 30v on a 24/36 gearing, I think even a 150A ESC will pop on the first climb. Maybe not, but it'd be risky.

Can you explain this a little bit more?
If I convert it to wye and get it to 170kv would that be better?
Click to expand...
 
Those are bubblegumboards pulleys ABS printed.

You should use a 14/16T with that pulley.

Look up SDP-SI and go to the center distance calculator.

Hills out here in SF are pretty steep - better to go dual motor IMO.

You should have a keyway on your motor also if not at least (2) M4 screws w/ flat spots. M3 are decent with dual motor though. Single motor uphill without keyway would be stressful.
 
I'm going single motor for simplicity with this. I'm ok with the idea of avoiding any big hills here in sf and as long as I can get from one end of the city doing the wiggle or something I'll be happy enough. Hightower's estimation/experience of how a single with even roughly a 1:3 gear ratio does is abysmal although still vague and I'm hoping/expecting better performance

I've got a 24 and 26 tooth that are 5mm wide not including the flange so I guess they wont fit and I guess I'll be getting more. If anyone is interested in trading I'll have a 6mm bore and the 8mm bore's I already have (24 and 26) and looking for something smaller. I have a feeling the store will want me to buy 3 or more again. Electric skateboards are a money pit for me ending in cool motor parts around my house but after falling on my face again yesterday riding downhill without any brakes I'm committed to make a simple board quickly. So I'm taking off work today to see what I can do :D

I'll be looking in thingyverse or somewhere else and Ill be asking in the 3d printed section here for a motor mount that will go with caliber trucks.. that I can then alter in sketchup so as to have it place the motor off the front or back so I can keep my drop-thru drop deck as it is. I still haven't utilized the connections I made to get a lost PLA mold done of a motor mount in aluminum bronze.

The keyway or flat spots...what's the best way to make these two flat spots? Can I just grind a hole in both spots with a dremel? I see this as a week spot.

So the ABS isn't as durable as PLA? I've got it coming and will be trying it anyway.

Bandaro you're a rarity in having converted from delta to wye outside the can and avoiding the whole rewind. I haven't done it and originally was led to believe I needed to physically separate the starts and ends inside the motor but later thought with an LED and battery I could find complete circuits going strand by strand and then a wye bundle could be made with all the ends. But I haven't done it as I say and while still just thinking about it cant imagine how I'll know which is a start or end and I'm thinking I'll have to take off the rotor to find which teeth on the stator are being magnetized. How did you do it?
 
I used a dremel to bore out a keyway, well actually keyholes on my 6mm shaft. I used a tungsten carbide bit which is more like an endmill than a drilling bit, so the cutting face is on the side.

If you go this route just mark your holes on the shaft, then come at the shaft perpendicularly with your bit tilted at a 90 degree angle. Then rotate to parallel the shaft and again with the bit at a 90 degree angle to finish your "keyhole". My pulleys have 4 of these :? !

It's much easier than doing a slotted keyway by hand, I've tried lol

That wye business sounds like a headache to me, but i'm not as electrically inclined as most here.
 
I use these on some of my boards. They last ok. Nylon is deffinitely better, though. I use a diamond tip for the dremel to bore out divits in the motor shaft for the Allen screws. Works pretty good for me.
 
The reason I've been going with ABS is because it's super easy to get a perfect print compared to Nylon. I consider the wheel side pulley a wear item and they get me about 500 miles, they last longer than the wheels they are bolted to.

You can certainly print them yourself from the thingiverse page that I put up but if you're unable to get the perfect I can sell you a replacement Pulley only for $8.00
plus shipping.

The kit I sell on ebay comes with,
1x ABS 36 tooth 5mm HTD wheel side pulley
1x Aluminium 16 tooth, 2 flange, 6mm bore size, 5mm HTD, motor side pulley
1x 5mm HTD pulley, 59 groove, 9mm width and 256mm pitch length
one full set of steel mounting hardware.

for 32.99 shipped this is about as cheap as you're going to get. I'm honestly not trying to make money just recoup what I've spent and get rid of inventory. I will try to answer your questions as best I can. The best way to get in touch is to email me andrew@voodoojar.com
 
voodoojar said:
The reason I've been going with ABS is because it's super easy to get a perfect print compared to Nylon. I consider the wheel side pulley a wear item and they get me about 500 miles, they last longer than the wheels they are bolted to.

You can certainly print them yourself from the thingiverse page that I put up but if you're unable to get the perfect I can sell you a replacement Pulley only for $8.00
plus shipping.

The kit I sell on ebay comes with,
1x ABS 36 tooth 5mm HTD wheel side pulley
1x Aluminium 16 tooth, 2 flange, 6mm bore size, 5mm HTD, motor side pulley
1x 5mm HTD pulley, 59 groove, 9mm width and 256mm pitch length
one full set of steel mounting hardware.

for 32.99 shipped this is about as cheap as you're going to get. I'm honestly not trying to make money just recoup what I've spent and get rid of inventory. I will try to answer your questions as best I can. The best way to get in touch is to email me andrew@voodoojar.com
Click to expand...

great to see you back ! hope you are well
 
voodoojar said:
The reason I've been going with ABS is because it's super easy to get a perfect print compared to Nylon. I consider the wheel side pulley a wear item and they get me about 500 miles, they last longer than the wheels they are bolted to.

You can certainly print them yourself from the thingiverse page that I put up but if you're unable to get the perfect I can sell you a replacement Pulley only for $8.00
plus shipping.

The kit I sell on ebay comes with,
1x ABS 36 tooth 5mm HTD wheel side pulley
1x Aluminium 16 tooth, 2 flange, 6mm bore size, 5mm HTD, motor side pulley
1x 5mm HTD pulley, 59 groove, 9mm width and 256mm pitch length
one full set of steel mounting hardware.

for 32.99 shipped this is about as cheap as you're going to get. I'm honestly not trying to make money just recoup what I've
spent and get rid of inventory. I will try to answer your questions as best I can. The best way to get in touch is to email me
andrew@voodoojar.com
Click to expand...

Glad to see you've returned. Just bought a 3d printer. Hoping to print your pulleys and enclosers myself. Thanks for such a great design!
 
McCloed - What printer you get? You see the Tiko - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer

Perfect price and size for most things we need. At $179 it's a steal. Anything bigger we can always print in sections and put it together afterwards.
 
I ordered the FlashForge Creator. Saw that one on Kickstarter, but don't want to wait a year for it. Maybe I'll also order one of those for portability. :)
 
mccloed said:
I ordered the FlashForge Creator. Saw that one on Kickstarter, but don't want to wait a year for it. Maybe I'll also order one of those for portability. :)
Click to expand...

Flashforge is nice but I'm liking the new Unibody design. After a long time printing alignment get's wonky. I'm hoping the Unibody doesn't need to be adjusted.
 
okp said:
what about the Utimaker 2 or the Zortrax ?
Click to expand...

I'm sure there are superb products but they are over my own budget.

I don't think they have much more to offer than a simple $179 Unibody Tiko IMO.

Nowdays, you can get the older flashforge for $600 if not less.

There are tons of 3d printers and old models which are starting to get outdated fast. I honestly think that after this Tiko comes out a lot of printers will start adopting the same unibody design.

Alignment can be a big issue - at least for me it is. I like the unibody and think it will work well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dozentrio
Mid-Drive Folding Ebike Build
Replies
3
Views
1,186
Chambers
Chambers
O
3D Gear models Electric Longboard thread
Replies
10
Views
2,635
bandaro
bandaro
B
Where to purchase gears? PLEASE HELP!
Replies
2
Views
722
mccloed
mccloed
l3thaltank
Double Drop Electric Longboard
Replies
13
Views
2,742
randyc1
R
psychotiller
6" Pneumatic Riverbed Board has new Aluminum Wheels
2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
21,419
psychotiller
psychotiller
Back
Top