Keling lifepo4 48v15ahr battery

joe tomten

100 W
Joined
May 13, 2009
Messages
211
Location
E. Mass., U.S.A.
I purchased this battery in order to do a conversion on my friends bike. He’s an avid cyclist/bike commuter, who wants his mtn. bike converted so he can pull his kid around on a tag-along on occasion. He wants a bike that works, and has little tolerance for messing around with a complex battery situation. Most of the folks whose bikes I've converted, or will convert, fit this description.

They are Ebike commuters, looking for transportation, and not for diy / hobby projects.

That is why I am looking for a state-side source of reasonably priced lifepo4 batteries that have a decent warranty and level of support. Other discussion about these batteries is found here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26399 .

keling48v15ahr.jpg

The keling 48v15ahr lifepo4 battery:
Shipping wt. 21 lbs

Cost: $589.95 , Shipping: approx. $25

My cost was $450 delivered. So I got an approx $170 break off the regular price of this battery, in return for agreeing to do this review. { I think pricing has gone up since i bought the battery. }

Their website is here: http://www.goasisenergy.com/lifepo4_battery
Specs and dimensions are found there.

John has been selling these batteries on ebay for about a year and a half. Supposedly no returns in that period.
http://shop.ebay.com/kelinginc/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Battery and charger voltages:
batvoltstates.jpg

IMG_3818.jpg

Mine came with 4 amp charger, with an alum. enclosure. Seems robust & is fan-cooled. Open circuit voltage: 58.7v. works fine on 100-120vac despite the red mark in the 220vac box.

So first thing we do is rip the thing open and hopefully avoid all of the balance wires. And underneath the shrink wrap and sticky paper covering we see :

bmsunderglasfibr.jpg


A fiberglass cover, with foam standoffs, covering a bms,
Which sports - a massive heat sink. A sticker on the bms contains handwriting: "48v and 15ahr, but no obvious reference to bms amperage capacity. Three typical negative wires connected to the bms for battery, load, and charger.

bmscloseup.jpg


Looking underneath - I can see a number of fets are bolted to the heat sink. I opt at this point to defer any further demolition, to keep the battery working long enough for testing.

Cells are tab-welded together in a 16s3p series configuration:
tabwelds.jpg

tabwelds-1.jpg

The cells are 32650’s - the same height as 26650’s, but fatter. Like a 1.25” (32mm) in width instead of the 26650’s 1” width.
(picture below shows both sizes next to each other)
fatcells.jpg


Having torn apart a brand new, perfectly good finished battery, I now duct tape the battery back together, with a piece of ¼” plywood and foam underneath for protection when resting on the brake mount posts behind the seat of the townie/Xtracycle.
IMG_3842.jpg

{ Oops, I completely forgot to test the voltage of each indiv. cell before wrapping it back up. Sorry.}
IMG_3844.jpg

Ready now for some riding. It’s actually more secure than it looks - tied in there like that. {edit, Wrong! Still tied in there, but now more securely.}

First I rode around the block for a couple of miles, and then recharged. And from here forward I will ride it back and forth to work (7.5 – 8 miles & about 250watthrs usage each way), charging at either end like I typically do with my same sized 48v15ahr ping. As far as I can tell so far, it performs the same as a Ping, with a 20amp controller.

I have a 9-fet, 30 amp, controller on it's way from Lyen, and I'll give that a try as well.
 
This space reserved for testing:

where I will do something like what Justin recommended:

Obtain a few 250-500 watt power resistors off ebay in the 5-10 ohm range. Then you can drain the battery through those at a more or less constant current using the CA to measure the data and either a laptop and serial / usb cable or the cycle analogger to capture it. Repeat the test with a few different series/parallel resistor combinations so that you get a nested set of discharge curves at different 'C' rates. Then it is very easy to interpolate the effective internal resistance of the battery.

I will definitely be open to the planning execution and reporting of this part of the review.
 
Thanks for the data thus far, these are interesting batteries.

I would like to see some 15, 30, and 45 amp tests if you can provide them. This will give us an idea of what the real C rating for these batteries is.

Easy to do with a programming cable, turnigy watt meter, and a big hill that will cause max amps to be drawn :)
 
So I've been riding with this battery on the townie/xtracycle for about a week now.

I'm finding it to be completely equivalent to my ping48v15ahr battery, if not maybe a little bit more lively (less voltage sag)? That's hard to know without the cycle analyst attached, and it is getting warmer out as well.

I did (accidently) manage to test the battery's LVC last week. I'd ridden the 8 miles to work, full throttle peddling like a fiend, like always. But when attaching the charger the power cord came loose, though I didn't notice. Then I rode home, same FT mode, but there was a big headwind out of the north.

About a mile from home (after 15 miles total full throttle riding and 7 against a headwind) the lvc trips. I pull over, unplug and reattach the power cable, and nurse the bike home at very low throttle.

Arriving home: voltage was 52.3v. So one of the 3p cell groups must have gone low. Recharging put 530 watthrs back into the battery, before the charger hit green light.

Since then it's been working fine. No way to really know without quantative testing, and my testing equipment (Cycle Analyst big screen with separate shunt) is still under construction.

The battery is fully capable of powering the xtracycle with me and a kid aboard. Yesterday I strapped 2 50# bags of chicken feed on the back and hauled them back from the feed store. Never done that before. Worked fine, and plenty stable with the weight down low and balanced side to side.
 
Nice. I've never really been against round cells per se. I just have been scoffing packs made from 150 or more teeny tiny ones.

Big improvement to use the larger cells in this pack. 8) 8) 8) I can't see why it wouldn't be able to be as reliable as a ping.

The website doesn't seem to be set up to sell though. :roll: At least not sell like an ebay or other sellers website, click and buy.
 
Here's thier link to a 36v 10 ah version. http://cgi.ebay.com/36V-10AH-LiFePO4-Battery-Electric-Scooter-and-E-Bike-/160590992298?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2563f813aa

36v 20 ah http://cgi.ebay.com/36V-20AH-LiFePO4-Battery-Electric-Scooter-and-E-Bike-/160586291177?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2563b057e9

And the also sell some other goodies, like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/MASTECH-HY6020E-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-VAR-0-60-V-0-20-AMPS-/120717232587?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b4ec9cb
 
I'm becoming interested in these batteries. My main concern is - what's the plan of action when a cell does go bad? Will they replace it for you? (Shipping back and forth would suck, but not as bad as having an unusable battery).
 
I wonder how much a single cell would cost. The actual replacement seems quite easy using solder braid and the tabs.
otherDoc
 
veloman said:
I'm becoming interested in these batteries. My main concern is - what's the plan of action when a cell does go bad? Will they replace it for you? (Shipping back and forth would suck, but not as bad as having an unusable battery).

Thanks for your concern, we are located in IL. USA, it will be easy to handle if there is a cell failures
So far there have been no returns or cell failures in the past 13 months that we’ve been selling this battery on ebay. We havn’t really had to deal with this issue.We will have some extra cells available ( in Stock) for replacement if there are some failures in future.
At this point we really did not set up anything to do repair work in house - though it seems like there should be a number of people on this board that might be willing to fix batteries – if that situation ever did arise.
 
john, if you can stock the individual cells with the tab already spot welded to each end then it would be possible for repairs to be made by soldering the new cell back in to the pack using the new tab soldered to the tab in the pack where the dead cell is removed.

you should be able to get your supplier in shenzhen to ship you some replacement cells with the tabs spot welded in the correct orientation so that you could then issue them as replacement parts. that is how it would be simple to repair them.

i suspect almost everyone here can already do that.

i don't know what the orientations of the tabs to each other would need to be, one would have to look at the pack and analyze what orientations perhaps would work in most cases, or have the tab be long on each side and spot welded in the middle and let the user cut off the unneeded end. something you could add to the ebay offering too.
 
Looking at the pictures above I'm reminded that:
1) the cells are paralleled * 3
2) the series connections of the parallel blocks from top to bottom - appears to be done with wide tab welds that are folded over.
3) and we can further surmise that the same wide tabs connect the subsequent series connections - be they folded over or not.

My experience in rebuilding a number of 26650 packs is that if there is any of the nickel tabbing left to solder to, then the job is pretty straightforward, by using some additional strips of nickel sheet (copper braid works as well? even stranded wire for that matter.) wherever it is needed.

The wide tabs used throughout the battery pack would permit fairly easy repairs if the supplied replacement cells had tabs that were typically oriented (both to one side).
 
Actual bad cells is not so common. But on the cheapie 18650 packs of a few years ago, it seemed like they were somewhat prone to a few cells popping the spot welds, which then strained the other paralell cells ruining them. It was too many cells, too poorly spot welded.

Should be a LOT less of a problem with this battery. The construction looks solid. Looks good to me. :mrgreen:
 
You are right, "Actual bad cells is not so common".
We do not have any return, we try to have a good quality control before we ship out from manufacture

http://www.goasisenergy.com/lifepo4_battery
 
i just recieved my 36v 15ah keling battery today. it arrived at 39.4 volts and charged to 43v. the shipping was quick and the packaging was excelent. so far my only concern is how hot the charger is getting. i can hold my hand on it,but it seems pretty darn warm for a 3a charger. right now its cycleing on and off,and its also cooled down quite a bit, so i guess its working corectly. :D
 
Fried wires, I like to now what motor what controller and how many amps the controller is at ? Oh and how you like this batt. Is it all it said to be ? Thanks Good Luck.
 
what i have is a cellman direct drive rear kit. im not sure about the amperage,but i did order his upgraded controller. i let the battery sit on the charger all day today and now it measures 43.4v. i still have a few odds and ends to finish up on the bike before the maiden voyage.so i'll let you know how it goes in a day or so........
 
That's a 22 amp controller then.
 
i took the bike for a short ride tonight. and the battery works fine. i did'nt notice much of a difference in performance from the sla's, but felt a big difference in handling without all the weight. :D
 
so far,so good! the pack has been properly broken in, and range tests at 25 miles to lvc with full throttle and no pedaling.and the lvc gradually shuts down instead of just cutting out. this is a great battery and i highly recomend it. i will definately be buying from goasisenergy in the future :D
 
I bought this battery today from ebay.

I am using lipo right now but I'm feeling a little nervous about charging my lipos at my desk at work. I work in a cube (not my own office) so it is a little weird with my whole charger setup, etc. But if this thing were to blow, it would be really bad. I think I'll be more comfortable using lifepo4 for my daily commute and using my lipos for weekend rides, higher power rides, etc.

I was going back and forth on whether I should just buy a Ping but decided to try this one out. I bought a ping a month or so ago for another build for a friend and it went well but this battery was about $50 cheaper than the Ping and obviously it shipping won't take as long since I am in the US.

$50 may not sound like a lot but I'll probably do about 5 builds/year so that quickly adds up to $500 in 2 years which is real money to me. At least from the posts in this thread, it also seems like these batteries are at least on par with Ping's batteries.

I have a CycleAnalyst, Watt Meter, etc. so I'll test the amp draw on this.
 
I bought this battery on ebay for $493.95 + $29.95 shipping on Friday 7/22. It was shipped out the same day and arrived yesterday 7/28. I live in Southern California. The battery looks identical to the one that Joe posted in this thread. The ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...212&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1123#ht_535wt_833

I didn't get home until around 11pm though so I didn't get a chance to fully charge it until this morning. I charged it for about an hour last night and it wasn't done yet so I unplugged it (felt uncomfortable sleeping with a new battery charging...maybe my lipo fears kicking in) and went to sleep. This morning I got up and plugged it in again. It sparked a little when I plugged it into the wall but about 1 hour or so later, it was fully charged.

I checked the voltage with my DMM but I don't remember what the reading was. I'll check tonight at home. IIRC, it was somewhere in the neighborhood of 54v. Seemed a little low but that's probably ok I guess.

The charging connector is a 3 prong microphone type connector (of which 2 are connected).

It didn't come with any connectors so I crimped Anderson connectors. The wires appear to be 14 gauge.

The charger looks the same as the Ping charger that I got with my 36v 10ah battery last month. The connector from charger to battery also looks the same as the Ping.

However, one main difference is that with the Ping, you have a visual display of the batteries and balancing when you charge. With this battery, you can't actually see the BMS as everything is covered. That may be more user friendly but I prefer the Ping display.

The ebay ad says:

Rated Discharging Amperage: 15 Amps
Max. Continuous Discharging Amperage: 30 Amps
Max. Discharging Current: 60 Amps
Discharging Cut-off Protection: 40-50 Amps

Will this battery be safe for me to pull 30 amps at roughly 1800 watts continuously?

I haven't tried this on the bike yet but I will give it a test this weekend and hopefully start using it for my commuter bike on Monday. I got a bit nervous charging lipo at work after some of the recent accidents and explosions so I figure this is a better and safer way to do it.

Dan.
 
RVD said:
Rated Discharging Amperage: 15 Amps
Max. Continuous Discharging Amperage: 30 Amps
Max. Discharging Current: 60 Amps
Discharging Cut-off Protection: 40-50 Amps

Will this battery be safe for me to pull 30 amps at roughly 1800 watts continuously?.

Yes, but you will not get the rated cycle life.
Low-discharge rate batteries like this are rated at thousands of cycles at 1C or below.
They will also sag a lot and probably create a notable amount of heat. Keep an eye on them during the summer.

Running a battery at the absolute edge of it's specifications is never a great idea.
 
I ran some tests today. according to my DMM, at full charge the pack is at around 53.5v. Voltage seems to sag. I ran about 4ah out of it mostly at around 20-30 amps. It ran down to about 48-50v but with sag would be more like 44-46v.

I may run another test down to empty just to see how far it goes.

the label on the battery pack says 15s5p. This is for a 48v 15ah battery. it looked like Joe's battery in this thread as a 16s3p configuration. anyone have an idea what kind of cells my battery has?
 
I rode to work this morning. I was sort of careful with the battery and didn't go full WOT like I usually do. I mainly kept the bike at around 20 amps or lower according to my CA. Usually, when I ride I sustain more like 30-33 amps for about 30 seconds and then goes down to about 25 amps. Today I was trying to keep it in the 20-22 amp range.

The voltage started at 52.5v according to my DMM. When I got to work, my CA said that I had used 9.5ah. I travelled about 16 miles. Voltage at work was 49v. With sag, the 49v goes down to about 46v or so.

Maybe my expectations weren't quite there but I'm a bit disappointed with this battery for the following reasons:

1) Battery label is different from what is in the picture on ebay and the website. My battery says 15s5p rather than 16s3p. I believe that the 16s3p battery is closer to 57v charged rather than the 52.5v charged that I started with. I wanted to replace my 14s3p lipo so the reduced voltage and power is a disappointment. I expected less power but not this much less.

2) I'm also puzzled with what type of cells are in this pack. I expected 32650 cells but I just don't know if that's what is in here.

Oh well, I took a gamble. Honestly, I don't know much about lifepo4 so maybe my reasoning is a bit off.

I raised some concerns to John (the guy at this company) but he just said that what I have is normal.

Shipping was fast though.

In any case, I will be buying a Ping from now on for my future lifepo4 builds.
 
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