KiwiEVs next project fast EV
- Thread starter kiwiev
- Start date
The Toecutter
100 kW
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,466
galderdi said:I would be putting a Fan and fake pulley system on that all the way up to the white box on top. Then I would mount a scoop on the white box. People will look at it and think its a blown V8
To bastardize a Mad Max quote, he could call it a "Joule-injected suicide machine."
kiwiev
100 kW
Emoto said:Great work there kiwi looks like your being pulled in all directions between projects , love the look of the ute e-v6, makes me want a e-van imagine that, with a false floor in the back plenty of room for battskiwiev said:Big day today
I'm pretty pleased how it turned out and looks a bit like a V6.
One thing youve come a long way from doing your first ebike thats for sure mate congrats.
thanks mate I promise to try better on the next you tube update.
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
galderdi said:I would be putting a Fan and fake pulley system on that all the way up to the white box on top. Then I would mount a scoop on the white box. People will look at it and think its a blown V8
lol it does look that way
the plan is to paint the box hammer metal black and run the orange high power cable and contactors out of it.Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
The Toecutter said:galderdi said:I would be putting a Fan and fake pulley system on that all the way up to the white box on top. Then I would mount a scoop on the white box. People will look at it and think its a blown V8
To bastardize a Mad Max quote, he could call it a "Joule-injected suicide machine."
Love MadMax mate
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
Got some more done on the Ute, took out the 3" drop blocks from the rear and replaced with 1" drop blocks this is to allow for the extra weight of the battery pack.
Mounted the orange "Drop tank" in complete with batteries and a 350 Amp continuous Anderson plug. Note all batteries have been bottom balanced to 2.8 volts and left in parallel for 2 weeks to neutral balance so hopefully all good.
Mounted one mid battery box which took all day I mounted the tom white box on to allow the use of gland nuts, but when I lowered the tub down the tray was resting on the white box. pulled it all a part and cut 15mm of box and remounted.
Cheers Kiwi
Mounted the orange "Drop tank" in complete with batteries and a 350 Amp continuous Anderson plug. Note all batteries have been bottom balanced to 2.8 volts and left in parallel for 2 weeks to neutral balance so hopefully all good.
Mounted one mid battery box which took all day I mounted the tom white box on to allow the use of gland nuts, but when I lowered the tub down the tray was resting on the white box. pulled it all a part and cut 15mm of box and remounted.
Cheers Kiwi
Attachments
kiwiev
100 kW
Finished battery boxes, and ran cables to the front via a kill switch beside the gear stick console, the cables were pushed thru some metal flex conduct.
Time to start the pretty end making the engine bay look WOW
installed braided water lines for controller cooling and ran phase wires from controllers to motor. Purchased some 14mm hydraulic clamps that fitted over the orange power cable just nice 8) 8) 8)
Cheers Kiwi
Time to start the pretty end making the engine bay look WOW
installed braided water lines for controller cooling and ran phase wires from controllers to motor. Purchased some 14mm hydraulic clamps that fitted over the orange power cable just nice 8) 8) 8)
Cheers Kiwi
Attachments
kiwiev
100 kW
VW bug update !!!
Wee bit more progress over the weekend finally got the rear battery box and batteries in. We used eight 6mm countersink bolts thru the bottom with 2mm plate washers 100 x 50mm.
then I had a brain wave and we drilled 2 holes thru the fire wall at the top of the box to locate the threaded rod retaining the batteries.
Cheers Kiwi
Wee bit more progress over the weekend finally got the rear battery box and batteries in. We used eight 6mm countersink bolts thru the bottom with 2mm plate washers 100 x 50mm.
then I had a brain wave and we drilled 2 holes thru the fire wall at the top of the box to locate the threaded rod retaining the batteries.
Cheers Kiwi
Attachments
kiwiev
100 kW
So here is a question for the engineers
I have been dreaming about future plans for the blue VW superbug and have 2 ideas
1, HPEV AC 51 specs 88 hp 108 ftlb torque with a 11 Kwh pack weight 90 kg so conversion weight would be approx 150 kg
Would run alloy flywheel and 2 speed box with switch reverse, then strip out weight ie race seats alloy wheels polycarbonate side windows etc.
This option would be budget and hopefully proove you can build a low cost fast EV. Also option to throw in another 11 Kwh pack in the front down the track.
2, HPEV twin AC 51s double above power torque, will need extra 11 Kwh pack to run 2 motors, I know this will be quick but expensive.
So my questions for everyone are
Would it be quicker with one motor and lighter or with two motors heaver by 150 kg and more power.?
Cheers Kiwi
I have been dreaming about future plans for the blue VW superbug and have 2 ideas
1, HPEV AC 51 specs 88 hp 108 ftlb torque with a 11 Kwh pack weight 90 kg so conversion weight would be approx 150 kg
Would run alloy flywheel and 2 speed box with switch reverse, then strip out weight ie race seats alloy wheels polycarbonate side windows etc.
This option would be budget and hopefully proove you can build a low cost fast EV. Also option to throw in another 11 Kwh pack in the front down the track.
2, HPEV twin AC 51s double above power torque, will need extra 11 Kwh pack to run 2 motors, I know this will be quick but expensive.
So my questions for everyone are
Would it be quicker with one motor and lighter or with two motors heaver by 150 kg and more power.?
Cheers Kiwi
liveforphysics
100 TW
Just generally speaking from over a decade of ICE racing, if it's a gearbox it breaks from something you can find a way to do to it.
Something like single belt stage from motor to pulley on OD of a differental housing using 13" kustov on a Zilla 2KHV controller off a used volt pack or >2015 LEAF cell pack would make a bug inspiring to drive.
Something like single belt stage from motor to pulley on OD of a differental housing using 13" kustov on a Zilla 2KHV controller off a used volt pack or >2015 LEAF cell pack would make a bug inspiring to drive.
kiwiev
100 kW
liveforphysics said:
Yeah sounds cool I don't know how and if a nissan leaf pack would give 2000 amps and I have already blown a DC 9" up, so a bit gun shy.
Thats why I am fan of AC
my point is sometimes doubling the motors doesnt always get double the performance.Maybe Toecutter can chip in.
Cheers Kiwi
Comparing the power-to-weight ratio for the car with both single and double motor setups should give a rough impression of the potential increase in performance of going to dual motor. It isn't going to be double, but could still be worthwhile as long as you're not traction limited. Efficiency (wh/mi) will suffer a bit carrying the extra weight of the dual setup.
Very cool project either way, though 8)
Very cool project either way, though 8)
The Toecutter
100 kW
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,466
If you want it to perform faster than an "average" car, definitely go with twin AC51s. You'd probably be looking at 0-100 kph in around 5-6 seconds with twin motors, depending on what the gear ratios are. A single AC51 with 150 kg less weight would get you 0-100 kph in about 9 seconds. I'm assuming with the lighter single-motor setup you would a converted mass of 850 kg and a mass of 1000 kg for dual motors.
In both cases, top speed could be very frightening. With proper gearing, even the single motor setup should have little issue approaching 200 kph.
In both cases, top speed could be very frightening. With proper gearing, even the single motor setup should have little issue approaching 200 kph.
kiwiev said:So here is a question for the engineers
I have been dreaming about future plans for the blue VW superbug and have 2 ideas
1, HPEV AC 51 specs 88 hp 108 ftlb torque with a 11 Kwh pack weight 90 kg so conversion weight would be approx 150 kg
Would run alloy flywheel and 2 speed box with switch reverse, then strip out weight ie race seats alloy wheels polycarbonate side windows etc.
This option would be budget and hopefully proove you can build a low cost fast EV. Also option to throw in another 11 Kwh pack in the front down the track.
2, HPEV twin AC 51s double above power torque, will need extra 11 Kwh pack to run 2 motors, I know this will be quick but expensive.
So my questions for everyone are
Would it be quicker with one motor and lighter or with two motors heaver by 150 kg and more power.?
Cheers Kiwi
Alternatively, you could make it with enough space for 2, but only install one to begin with.
You could get creative and find way's to cool a single motor well so you can push it past it's normal thermal limits producing good peak power for acceleration, but also benefiting from lighter weight and improved efficiency from having only 1 motor the rest of the time.
This is much like I and others are doing for out E-Bike hub motors.
I haven't seen many AC motor's covered in heat-sinks, but surely it would only help.
Cheers
You could get creative and find way's to cool a single motor well so you can push it past it's normal thermal limits producing good peak power for acceleration, but also benefiting from lighter weight and improved efficiency from having only 1 motor the rest of the time.
This is much like I and others are doing for out E-Bike hub motors.
I haven't seen many AC motor's covered in heat-sinks, but surely it would only help.
Cheers
kiwiev
100 kW
Thanks CD and Toecutter
I was thinking of getting the twin adapter its a $1000 more but its always there to use down the track.
The AC motor has an internal fan and HPEV do a oil cool version tooo but my Sonic never got about 85 deg and they can go to 150 deg, most of the heat comes from the controllers hence the liquid cooling.
Have a source leak that there is a new AC motor on the horizon for release early next year cant release specs yet but may be a way better option.
Cheers Kiwi
I was thinking of getting the twin adapter its a $1000 more but its always there to use down the track.
The AC motor has an internal fan and HPEV do a oil cool version tooo but my Sonic never got about 85 deg and they can go to 150 deg, most of the heat comes from the controllers hence the liquid cooling.
Have a source leak that there is a new AC motor on the horizon for release early next year cant release specs yet but may be a way better option.
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
Yahoo
The Ute is runningdid a wee bit of testing doing 0-100 kph in the 6-7 seconds which im happy with it will pull away in 4th gear but you can drive it like a stick shift
Jobs to do:
Wire up Zeva fuel gauge driver
Play with throttle programming its sensitive in reverse even in Ecco mode and power mode is scary
Try to get OEM Tachometer going
Hard wire rear tub raising motor
Clean up wiring in engine bay
Wire up power steering unit.
Also my new Elcon charger turns on flashs red 4 times then flashes red green to indicate no battery connected.
Any ideas??.
Cheers Kiwi
The Ute is runningdid a wee bit of testing doing 0-100 kph in the 6-7 seconds which im happy with it will pull away in 4th gear but you can drive it like a stick shift
Jobs to do:
Wire up Zeva fuel gauge driver
Play with throttle programming its sensitive in reverse even in Ecco mode and power mode is scary
Try to get OEM Tachometer going
Hard wire rear tub raising motor
Clean up wiring in engine bay
Wire up power steering unit.
Also my new Elcon charger turns on flashs red 4 times then flashes red green to indicate no battery connected.
Any ideas??.
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNaiAxFlY9l/
Here is a quick video of motor start lots of torque and not much vibration
Cheers Kiwi
Here is a quick video of motor start lots of torque and not much vibration
Cheers Kiwi
The Toecutter
100 kW
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,466
kiwiev said:The Ute is runningdid a wee bit of testing doing 0-100 kph in the 6-7 seconds which im happy with it will pull away in 4th gear but you can drive it like a stick shift
Ultimately, what battery setup did you go with and how much does it weigh?
It would haul ass in the bug...
kiwiev
100 kW
The Toecutter said:kiwiev said:The Ute is runningdid a wee bit of testing doing 0-100 kph in the 6-7 seconds which im happy with it will pull away in 4th gear but you can drive it like a stick shift
Ultimately, what battery setup did you go with and how much does it weigh?
It would haul ass in the bug...
So I took the batteries out of the sonic 46 x 160 Ah Winstons and bought 2 more to run a total of 48 I bottom balanced all of them then connected them in parraell for 2 weeks, gives 24.5 Kwh at 282 Kg.
Yes it would haul in a bug just 2 inches too long but I could mod the rear I think a better option than twin belt drive motors.
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev
100 kW
EPIC!
I'll have to come down for another ride some time soon then. The Fighter is going well with it's new controller and LiPo in place now.
Cheers
I'll have to come down for another ride some time soon then. The Fighter is going well with it's new controller and LiPo in place now.
Cheers
kiwiev
100 kW
Cowardlyduck said:EPIC!
I'll have to come down for another ride some time soon then. The Fighter is going well with it's new controller and LiPo in place now.
Cheers
Yes definitely after Christmas maybe between New year
Cheers Kiwi
Hey Kiwi,
It's looking really good. Having another look at the earlier photos I am hoping you added a guard around your drive shafts? If one of those universal joints goes you could have a rogue drive shaft punching it's way through the batteries.
It's looking really good. Having another look at the earlier photos I am hoping you added a guard around your drive shafts? If one of those universal joints goes you could have a rogue drive shaft punching it's way through the batteries.
kiwiev
100 kW
Good point mate
It has a drive shaft bushing at the front of the battery boxes just below the back of the cab. But I don't know where I could put a drive shaft loop from there to the diff ?
Any ideas would be great mate
Cheers Kiwi
It has a drive shaft bushing at the front of the battery boxes just below the back of the cab. But I don't know where I could put a drive shaft loop from there to the diff ?
Any ideas would be great mate
Cheers Kiwi