Kokam pack physical damage- lessons learned

acuteaero

100 W
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
172
Location
SF Bay Area, CA
At the end of March earlier this year I put together six 6s packs of Kokam HP 16AH cells in preparation for the race at the Grange racetrack in early April. I have been riding around with three of these packs on my bicycle "the shortbus", with a Clyte HS motor in 17" moped wheel. Photos and a description of the pack construction technique I used can be found at this post here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761#p565974 and on Picasa: https://picasaweb.google.com/106371422363746314682/DK16AHBuild?authuser=0&feat=directlink

That's the background to this story- I've put several hundred miles of riding on the bike and the packs have been good. I haven't needed to balance them at all, they have stayed in very good balance. I have not however pushed their upper or lower limits, I have only gone to maybe 75% DOD. On Friday after work I went to a local park and rode around on the bicycle trails- rode 15 miles on dirt/rock. The trail is very rutted and rocky, the suspension fork on the bike did very well, but it's a hardtail so it bounced around pretty hard.

When I got back home I inspected the batteries by removing each 6s group of cells from their cor-plast box- to my dismay I found quite a lot of physical damage caused by the impacts due to the freedom of the packs to move in their holders, and the lack of compliant padding- one cell in one group was damaged to the point of leaking electrolyte from the bottom of the cell. I immediately unbuilt the pack and moved that cell to a metal box on my concrete driveway, I will figure out what to do with it later. Here are the pictures I took of the disassembly process.

Here's the full set of pictures, on picasa: https://picasaweb.google.com/106371...authkey=Gv1sRgCLuZ2ZKyvde7mQE&feat=directlink

IMG_1162.JPG

IMG_1163.JPG

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IMG_1166.JPG

The damaged cell is on the left, good cell is on the right. The bad cell has enough gas/air inside so that the bag hangs loosely around the contents. Suppose you would call it 'puffed'. The two strips of "wall saver" double sided tape are visible here.
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I don't really expect the cell to spontaneously burn but I feel better with it in this box outside on the driveway rather than inside while I'm at work during the day.
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This incident makes me feel a bit stupid and noobish, and maybe all the armchair engineers out there can point out how obviously I set myself up to fail here- but I figured I'd post these pictures to make a record of "what happens when this particular stupid thing is tried", and to elicit constructive feedback beyond the conclusions I make about it (hopefully :) )

In using, and unbuilding the packs- some things about my construction and mounting method that do seem to have worked out well, as seen in the build post linked above, and in the above photos.:
  • The clampy-bars that electrically connect the cells and provide main positive and negative, and balance wires seem to work just fine, there was no visible degradation of anything and they've been functioning just fine. (However, I think they were too labor intensive and I would do it differently if I were to redo it.)
  • The scotch brand "wallsaver" did a good job,it's thin enough and it was easy enough to remove with a spatula between the cells when it came time to unbuild the pack.
  • The mounting system has been convenient, allowing me to mount and remove the batteries from the bike in very little time when I put the bike in my car, etc.

Obviously there are issues- some visible some less so in the photos. Here are a couple photos of how the packs go on the bike as well:

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Note the wear on the surface of the aluminum sheet that makes up the bracket. This area is quite rough to the touch as well.
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Obviously, the packs are moving too much, and there is not enough compliant support to cushion the cells from impact when they are moving.

I was curious to see what had happened to the corplast under the cells- had it been smashed and collapsed? So I sectioned a box with a box cutter.
IMG_0204.JPG


Looks like the corplast has not collapsed at all, that in fact it has behaved as a rigid hard body against the cells and provided very little to no cushioning action at all.

Some other issues with the packs: Dirt and other junk tends to get into the corplast box, and then with the movement of the cells inside the corplast the junk scrapes, scratches and pits the soft sides of the cells.

So, what do I learn from this, and what direction do I go in the future to prevent this from happening again? I think there's two routes here- either prevent movement of the cells at all, rigidly mount them inside the protective case- or mount them less rigidly with plenty of padding to prevent damage from forces due to acceleration. I think preventing movement of the cells is the better way to do it- it's possible that just a piece of stiff foam under the yellow strap to put pressure downward on the pack into the bracket would have greatly reduced the severity of the problem and maybe even prevented the failure that occurred. I think there are better ways of doing it though.

I imagine that it would probably be good to prevent motion of the cells inside the box. The corplast boxes are a pretty sung fit around the cell, but there is obviously plenty of movement going on, as I can see from the wear on the cells and box, and the scratching from foreign matter floating inside the box. This movement could be prevented by clamping force, by rigid end plates and straps or bolts to create tension- or likely more compact to double sided tape the cells inside the box (hurts serviceability though...)

Doing a little simple searching, this is a matter that has been covered before-

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=17497&start=15
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=15408&start=210

Sounds like double sided tape is a good approach for this problem- as I noted, it's worked great between the cells.

I think I will fabricate tougher, stiffer boxes than the corplast boxes, and double sided tape the cells into them, then make a more secure and tighter mount on the bike.

Sorry for the somewhat rambling post. Working with raw pouch cells (which more and more people are doing these days) is a blessing (energy/power dense) and a curse (lots of factors to consider for long term reliability!)
 
maybe assemble the pack so the pouches lay flat so the vibration does not push on the end of the separators and electrodes but against the face of the pouch instead. also i would think that compression is helpful. jmho
 
Maybe you want to take a page out of the RC Lipo playbook.

1) wrap the cells up with heatshrink or tape to bind them together as one nice solid mass. This won't be a problem if you aren't heating up the cells too bad..
2) Some foam padding seems to work pretty damn well. I use multiple layers of it, one really soft layer plus a harder layer ( built into my triangle bag for those tough impacts.

falconev20ah.jpg


I've got a quadzillion miles on this kinda setup and my packs are physically still in great condition. They are not showing any signs of wear and tear or anything.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29211

Other people seem to have really good luck with it too. Cell_man sells A123 packs designed to fit in this bag, which are gonna be mucho heavier and more sensitive to vibration than what you got due to the cylindrical cell construction... i have yet to hear of any problems with that layout since he started selling that design.

Sucks to hear that your Dow Kokam lipo got beat up like that.
 
dnmun said:
maybe assemble the pack so the pouches lay flat so the vibration does not push on the end of the separators and electrodes but against the face of the pouch instead. also i would think that compression is helpful. jmho

Sure- I'm sure they're more robust to force in that direction- but it's a lot harder to put them on a bike you're trying to keep narrow that way. And abrasion from any movement is still an issue. I think the real solution is to prevent motion against whatever the cell is in direct contact with- even the RC lipo packs kinda do this- the cells are double faced taped together, and the shrink wrap on the outside doesn't move with respect to the cells, and provides a fair bit of abrasion protection, and a tiny bit of puncture/mechanical protection- just that tiny bit of material is remarkably effective at protecting the cells from abrasion.

I think if you're compressing the cells you're probably also preventing motion with respect to whatever's compressing them- so sure, it solves two problems- the trick is doing it in a compact way that doesn't greatly increase the envelope of the pack- I know many have built pack stack compression rigs with plates on the end with strapping to hold it together- that's a very cool way to do it, I think much better than bolts/allthread/nuts/etc, but still the plates have to be rather thick to be rigid enough to effectively compress the whole cell and not just smash the edges- I have thought about taking a thinner piece of acrylic or polycarbonate (.125 or .1875) and using a heat bender to make it into a bowed shape... then pull it in with the strapping... cue crappy paint drawing.

strap.png


where the strap is shown in green, and the polycarb plates in red. This sort of an arrangement might help get better clamping out of thinner end plates. Maybe.

In my particular pack configuration setup, with three packs of 6s per bike, adding thick load spreaders has a big space penalty- as a pair are needed for each pack, making six plates needed on the whole bike- if you can bundle all your cells in one stack it's certainly a smaller penalty per cell.
 
The simplest solution is to shrink wrap them, wehther you use heatshrink or mulitple layers of pallet-wrap, either would be pretty effective. Then you can use something like the thicker, denser mousepad foam to surround that, and give it padding for bumps. Eventually that foam will compress "permanently" but it could be some long time before that happens.

I have been using actual mousepads from TriStar computer company, and I'm sure the pads themselves are at least 15-20 years old, before I started using them for my purposes. I use them to line the bottom and fill the side and end gaps in the ammocan my experimental pack is in, so that I have to actually sort of pry the ammocan sides outward a little to slide the whole thing in there, so that it is compressed a bit further by the sidewalls of the ammocan once the lid is closed. There is still other unused room inside the can but since the pack is "pinched" between the sides, and resting on the bottom, it doesn't seem to move around even when CrazyBIke2's unsuspended rear wheel hits bumps and potholes. (the ammocan is strapped on a little shelf to the side of the cargo pod rails, just under the seat's side rail; it will eventually be bolted in place in the center of the bike's middle frame).

On my other ammocan pack, which is just regular RC LiPo packs, it's just got some high-density closed-cell blue foam stuffed into all the gaps, and the heatshrink around the packs is actually in contact with the ammocan walls in most places on one side. I opened the pack to check balance on the cells after riding it on my Fusin test bike for about 50 miles for work commutes, and it had not appeared to have any movement inside--no abrasions on the heatshrink that weren't there to start with. Of course, I can't see what hte cells in the pack look like, but I didn't know what they looked like before either, to compare. The pack rides on the rear rack bolted to the swingarm, so it is unsuspended. (bad idea, but right now the only place I can put it till I make some parts).
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=76351
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=536242#p536242
 
amberwolf said:
The simplest solution is to shrink wrap them, wehther you use heatshrink or mulitple layers of pallet-wrap, either would be pretty effective. Then you can use something like the thicker, denser mousepad foam to surround that, and give it padding for bumps. Eventually that foam will compress "permanently" but it could be some long time before that happens.

Yes- shrink tube, pallet plastic wrap would probably do well too--- AlanB likes VetWrap which I've seen him use in person- it's sure easy to apply and definitely does a good job of grabbing stuff down tight.

Sounds like you've got the "eliminating movement" bit down well in your rig. Good stuff!

For foam- yeah- mousepads are good stuff. So is the blue camping mat foam. Cheap too.

I have a little RC lipo pack (12s2p Zippy 30c) which I sewed up a tough little fabric bag for, double side taped the packs together and surrounded them in blue mat foam. It's held up great and worked well but it's really bulky, adding practically an inch to each dimension. I've seen a lot of builds where RC packs are "tetris-ed" into a triangle shape with foam, in a box or bag- it seems to be working well for folks, but I don't have a frame triangle to speak of to fill up- these packs hang on the sides saddle-style. Every bit of width is less for your knees.

Tradeoffs.

I feel pretty dumb about this event, but hey, all in the name of learning.
 
You were on the right track there with the coroplast I think, and there is a limit to how tight you can make the box. I think you just needed something to chafe proof the foil pouches. I've taken to taping up zippy packs on the bottom with thick clear packing tape several layers thick. The Turnigy ones have a protector on them, but the zippy's just had naked pouch on the bottom. So I felt the need to protect the bottom of the zippy's better. Same issue, dirt falls in, and then the packs can potentialy grind on a grain of sand.

So I'd say put some tape, some shrink tube, or whatever on them, then into the coroplast. The bottoms of my battery boxes do have some mousepad like foam liner to cushion bumps, and to give a grain of sand something softer to dig into. I shim the batts into the outer metal box quite tight, tight enough to flip the bike and never have a pack come out. So that helps chafing too.

Wrap em, and tighten up to lessen the movement.
 
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