theGoPedal
100 mW
Hey ES, thought you might like to see my 2nd build:
Here are the specs:
Bike:
Frame - '04 Kona Stab, Hayes Nine brakes, Fox Vanilla rear shock
Fork - '03 Marzocchi Junior T
Tires - CST Cyclops
Handlebars - Diamondback BMX Trail
Saddle - Schwinn cruiser
Electronics:
Motor/Controller - 8t Mac in 26" rim/45A 12 fet Infineon with DP CA
Battery - 20s A123 20ah
Everything Else:
Torque plate - McMaster Carr slotted washer, modified
Brackets - 1-1/4" round accessory clamp bracket
Supports - 6"x6" angle aluminum
Battery Bag - Ape Case 1000
Headlight - 12-80V 3W LED Spot Light
Here's my torque plate. I used a McMaster Carr slotted washer, thanks to migueralliart for finding these. The washer was slightly wider than the axle, so I made it pinch. I cut the notches out with an angle grinder and used a drill press for the holes.
View attachment 9
Like others, I was impressed by Oatnet's fork mounted battery solution. But I also wanted a quick release for the battery so I could take it off the bike when I needed. Here's what I came up with. Instead of mounting the battery directly to the brackets, I mounted 2 pieces of 6"x6" aluminum to use as supports.
I thought for a long time about how to make a quick release method; it had to be simple and use off the shelf parts. Eventually I settled on some stainless conduit clips mounted to the rear of the battery and a quick release pin.
When the battery is mounted on the supports, part of the hoop extends past the edge of the aluminum where the pin can be inserted. Due to the position of the handlebar stem, when the pin is inserted the battery is effectively immobilized. The pin is held in by friction which can be adjusted slightly by tightening or loosening the bolts that attach the clips to the battery.
I had originally planned to use a Hardigg Storm i2075 case for the battery, which is slightly larger than a Pelican 1300, but when I got it I found out that it tapers slightly from top to bottom and and the A123s wouldn't fit. So I looked for another solution and eventually settled on the Ape Case. It fits the A123s like a glove and IMO is quite attractive. I was a little concerned that it was a softcase, so I reinforced the sides and bottom with some steel plating cut from an old computer case. This also helps with the clips as it gives them something solid to bolt to.
The battery assembly is strictly low tech. Fold, crimp, repeat, Oatnet showed ya how. Right now I'm running without a bms and balance charging in 5s blocks with a hobby charger.
As you might imagine, the ride is way fun. I've been grinning ear to ear for a solid month. I love the looks I get from people - how's he going that fast on that bike? I'm having a ball cruising around at 31 mph (75% power) and having the ability to burst up to 37. My goal was to make a fast urban commuter and I think it succeeds. I've given some friends a ride and they all now want one.
More pics:
Here are the specs:
Bike:
Frame - '04 Kona Stab, Hayes Nine brakes, Fox Vanilla rear shock
Fork - '03 Marzocchi Junior T
Tires - CST Cyclops
Handlebars - Diamondback BMX Trail
Saddle - Schwinn cruiser
Electronics:
Motor/Controller - 8t Mac in 26" rim/45A 12 fet Infineon with DP CA
Battery - 20s A123 20ah
Everything Else:
Torque plate - McMaster Carr slotted washer, modified
Brackets - 1-1/4" round accessory clamp bracket
Supports - 6"x6" angle aluminum
Battery Bag - Ape Case 1000
Headlight - 12-80V 3W LED Spot Light
Here's my torque plate. I used a McMaster Carr slotted washer, thanks to migueralliart for finding these. The washer was slightly wider than the axle, so I made it pinch. I cut the notches out with an angle grinder and used a drill press for the holes.
View attachment 9
Like others, I was impressed by Oatnet's fork mounted battery solution. But I also wanted a quick release for the battery so I could take it off the bike when I needed. Here's what I came up with. Instead of mounting the battery directly to the brackets, I mounted 2 pieces of 6"x6" aluminum to use as supports.
I thought for a long time about how to make a quick release method; it had to be simple and use off the shelf parts. Eventually I settled on some stainless conduit clips mounted to the rear of the battery and a quick release pin.
When the battery is mounted on the supports, part of the hoop extends past the edge of the aluminum where the pin can be inserted. Due to the position of the handlebar stem, when the pin is inserted the battery is effectively immobilized. The pin is held in by friction which can be adjusted slightly by tightening or loosening the bolts that attach the clips to the battery.
I had originally planned to use a Hardigg Storm i2075 case for the battery, which is slightly larger than a Pelican 1300, but when I got it I found out that it tapers slightly from top to bottom and and the A123s wouldn't fit. So I looked for another solution and eventually settled on the Ape Case. It fits the A123s like a glove and IMO is quite attractive. I was a little concerned that it was a softcase, so I reinforced the sides and bottom with some steel plating cut from an old computer case. This also helps with the clips as it gives them something solid to bolt to.
The battery assembly is strictly low tech. Fold, crimp, repeat, Oatnet showed ya how. Right now I'm running without a bms and balance charging in 5s blocks with a hobby charger.
As you might imagine, the ride is way fun. I've been grinning ear to ear for a solid month. I love the looks I get from people - how's he going that fast on that bike? I'm having a ball cruising around at 31 mph (75% power) and having the ability to burst up to 37. My goal was to make a fast urban commuter and I think it succeeds. I've given some friends a ride and they all now want one.
More pics:
