Kona Stinky pedalless GNG Big block

Dirty

1 mW
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
Messages
17
Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum so I should introduce myself. I'm a 24-year old guy from Finland who got really excited about E-bikes a few months ago. Since then I've read alot of this forum and decided to start my own build thread.
My experience with bicycles isn't too great, I know the basics and that's about it. With the RC-cars though I've played alot as a hobby in the past and later I studyed electronics. Jobs here in Finland were a bit tough to get so I decided to get education on different area and nowadays I'm working as a car collision mechanic (dunno what's it called in english). So electronics doesn't implement so much at my work now, but it is still fun to play with and that's one reason why I got excited about e-bikes. Second reason is that battery technology has improved so much from those days when I played rc-cars using nicads and nimhs. But that's about me, let's get to the build before this gets boring!

So my plan is to build something light, powerful , dead simple and reliable without spending k's of €€€ in it. This far I have bought a Kona Stinky from my buddy for cheap 400€. After watching some youtube videos I thought a 2wd hub motor build would be so badass, but I soon realised it's gonna be way too heavy and I'd probably mangle my rims at the first jump so I dropped the whole idea. Next idea was a mid-drive, where I still am, especially GNG got my attention when I saw what has been achieved with that setup. That looked so promising but the more I read about it, the more I got frustrated. Kit's price is 384€ including postages and what I've been readin' the only good thing in that kit is the motor! Controller is propably ok but it doesn't deliver the amp's what I'm seeking for, so that goes to thrash can aswell and everything else delivered with the kit goes there too.
Power aim in this build is above 4kW, so to get the bike reliably deliver that power to the rear wheel, I abandon bicycles original drivetrain and build it with 219 chain and sprockets. This way I can make it single stage reduction and the drive train doesn't eat too much energy.

As the title says I'm going to ditch the pedals too. This is for keeping things simple and there will be many advantages this way for example I can abandon that crappy front freewheel thing and use a bigger motor and put it infront of the bb. I planned on hooking pedals in the bb and run the chain straight from the motor to the rear wheel. It's yet to be seen do i have to use any idler in this setup, bcoz I plan to make the motor sheets adjustable so I can adjust the chain tension by motor.

What comes to the motor, I was very happy to find this big block GNG motor, it does look very promising and I hope to get more info about that motor like kv and max kW. So if anyone knows anything about it, let me know, I'd appreciate it very much! One reason why I started this thread is that I need help with certain things like controller, throttle and calculations, so if anyone has any recommendations I'd like to hear them.
GNG 450w motor has 67kv iirc, so a big block may have a smaller kv, but I made my calculations with that 67kv. So I planned to use an 18s Lipo coz what I've read here is that with the 450w motor, the eddiecurrent loss grows after those voltages. Correct me if I'm wrong I'd like to use even more volts if it makes any sense! What I don't know is how that big block reacts to higher volts, is the problem even worse?

This is my idea in a nutshell so tell me your thougths, ideas and improvements, any comments are welcome!

Here's some calculations:
450w motor is 67kv. Batteries I plan to use are 18s so that makes 74,7v if I charge cells to 4,15v. So the motor will rev 5005rpm max, so 70% of that would be 3503rpm. As I told earlier I planned to use the 219 chain and sprockets and that's because it will be much tougher than a bicycle chain and the chain pitch is much smaller so I can get very reasonable reduction with only single stage. The front sprocket would be 12t becouse everything under that would make terrible noise, severe wear and lumpyness as we know. The rear sprocket is 92t, biggest I've found yet, that will give me final drive ratio of 1:7,67, which is pretty descent with strong motor. So the rear wheel maximum rpm under load would be 456,7rpm, that makes 56,4kph with 26" rim. If we assume best efficiency would show about 40-60% load rpm, then it would be best to drive from 23 to 34kph. That's about what I'm seeking for, because this thing will be driven in the woodz. ;)

Harri
P.S. I'm really sorry about this novel. :D
Kona.jpg
 
Dirty said:
As the title says I'm going to ditch the pedals too. This is for keeping things simple and there will be many advantages this way for example I can abandon that crappy front freewheel thing and use a bigger motor and put it infront of the bb. I planned on hooking pedals in the bb and run the chain straight from the motor to the rear wheel. It's yet to be seen do i have to use any idler in this setup, bcoz I plan to make the motor sheets adjustable so I can adjust the chain tension by motor.

Hi Harri,
when the suspension compresses the distance between the rear wheel and the motor will change and the chain will become slack.
You will need some sort of tensioner with a spring to compensate for that since you are not planning to use a rear derailleur.

Avner.
 
ferret said:
Hi Harri,
when the suspension compresses the distance between the rear wheel and the motor will change and the chain will become slack.
You will need some sort of tensioner with a spring to compensate for that since you are not planning to use a rear derailleur.

Avner.
Hi Avner!
Thanks for your comment. If that's the case, I really need that tensioner. I have to admit I thought the geometry on downhill bicycles were similar to motocross bikes so I didn't check that. I just assumed the chain would tighten as the suspension compressess. :D
Btw do you know a reasonably priced controller that would hold up 75v easily and put about 80 amps through it? I've thought Lyen 12 FET 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller, I just don't know if can get those amps with it. Second problem is that it comes outside of Europe so I have to pay taxes of it...
 
Harri,
theoretically, if you place the front sprocket very close to the suspension pivot (where the chain stays are connected to the front triangle) then it is possible that the length change would be small enough not to require a tensioner. However, considering the size of the motor and the shape of the frame, I don't think it is possible.

I don't have much e-bike experience myself, I am now in the middle of my first build and since it will not be as high powered as yours I didn't research high powered controllers. From what I read here the recommended controllers are Lyen, Kelly and Castle Creations (sensorless controllers).
For more specific recommendations I hope the more experienced will chime in.

Avner.
 
I just bought one of those Lyen 12 fet controllers for a similar 5kw mid drive build. He even upgraded the traces and installed an additional shunt for higher current. He charged less for the upgrades than I would have paid for soldering supplies. I don't know how much the taxes would be but its hard to imagine you could find a better price than Lyen.

As far as the tensioner is concerned you will probably need one. There are plenty of tensioners on the market but most are for bike chain pitches. You may have to adapt a 219 sprocket to an off the shelf bike tensioner. I have also seen people machine or file a groove in a skateboard wheel for the chain to ride in. The wheel is then mounted on the end of a tensioner arm. It may be a bit louder than a sprocket tensioner but would be cheap and easy to get. The skateboard wheel rubber seems to hold up pretty well without being too loud or hard on the chain.

Ferret is correct about mounting the drive sprocket at the pivot point not requiring a tensioner. On a dual pivot suspension this point may be harder to locate. Driving from this point may require a second stage since its most likely not where the motor will go. I believe most quality suspensions are designed such that the rider pedaling minimizes the pull on the suspension. Seems to me that the best place to drive from would be the center of the pedal bottom bracket since the bike is designed to be driven from there. Then again that still does not eliminate the tensioner since every suspension bike I have seen still has one.

You could take the shock/spring out and cycle the suspension up and down to see where the chain length changes the least amount.

If you work slower than me I will let you know what I come up with for my 219chain tensioner. I have not figured mine out yet.

Good luck!
 
Hi DanGT86, thanks for the info, I probably go with Lyen controller if I don't come a cross something from europe which I doubt.

I checked the geometry of my Stinky yesterday night and the rear forks pivot is located just above bb and the fork is pointing downwards so distance between bb and rear dropout grows when fork turns up. I quickly drew on a picture that I took which will explain this. In my case the motor will be placed in front of the bb as shown in the picture, so the sprocket will be about 20-25cm in front of the rear forks pivot. I just had in mind that Motorcycles usually don't have any tensioners and from there I got the idea of running chain without it. MX-bikes run with very loose chain so I thought it wouldn't be a big problem. In my setup the motor sprocket is probably too far away from the pivot so if it comes to a problem I do some kind of springed tensioner with 219 sprocket, or just a simple roller, or even dragger (don't know what's it called) like MX-bikes have.
geometry.jpg
 
The way you have it drawn was my original plan as well. I just thought of a possible way to check it. Shorten a bike chain to wrap around the current drive gears of the bike without the derailleur tensioner. Then cycle the suspension and see how much slack/tension it creates in the chain. It should be clear right away if it binds or creates so much slack that the chain comes off.

After having my regular bike chain pop off and get stuck between the spokes and rear gears, I am completely terrified of running my future setup without a tensionser. Worst case scenario in my mind is that the chain comes off in the front and the rear sprocket uses the chain as a weapon to rip off my gear reduction or my leg. :shock:

In a perfect world I would have some sort of freewheel in the left side rear hub/sprocket. A freewheeling rear sprocket seems less dangerous in the event of a chain problem.

Motorcycles due tend to have good luck with UHMW plastic sliders for the chain. The driving sprocket is usually very close to the swingarm pivot and the swingarm pivots in only one place. The dual pivot on a lot of mountain bikes makes the geometry a little stranger.

Some of the recumbent bike builders use plastic tubes to control the chain over long distances. Wont help with tension but it will keep the chain in a better position if it does get a little slack in it.
 
Thanks Litespeed :)
DanGT86 your right about those dual pivot frames, I'm glad this isn't one of them. :D I began to think it won't work without tensioner, because the pivot is so far away from the front sprocket. Now I've ended up with an idea of putting a roller at the saddle tube to raise the chain, so when the suspension compresses and the lower side of the chain starts to tighten, but the upper side where the roller is will slacken. Here is a new picture of drivetrain and geometry.
geometry2.jpg
Oh and I plan to make some sort of chain guard if/when the chain snaps, it will also protect from dirt. I am also going to use that original freewheel, I just get rid of that cassette and make a adapter for the big sprocket, at least that's the plan so far and if you have ideas for that adapter I'm listening.

As always things change after a while and same has happened here :) After a nice talk with LightningRods about the BigBlock motor I've decided to run that monster at 48 volts instead of 72 and feeding amps to it like a lunatic. :D So 100 amps is the goal now and if it seems I need more speed then I can add few lipo packs and run it with 66v. Gear ratio will of course change to heavier, which is a good thing because the front sprocket should be bigger anyway...

So the next thing I did is that I ordered 12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder Sensorless LYEN Edition Controller from Lyen. He recommended it if I don't go past 66 volts and it should deliver 100 amps without a problem. Also what he said was that the IRFB3077 has lower internal resistance for higher power and/or lower temperature at the same power level of the 4110, so it sounded good enough to my ear and I ended up ordering it :)
The BigBlock is also ordered and for now I'm just waiting for them and searching the rest of the parts that I need. I've been searching cheap lipos everywhere and the cheapest I came a cross were this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15521__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack.html
Good thing in that it's a hardcase pack, bad thing is that it's only 4s, but if I want to upgrade 16s later it'll be no problem. Great thing is that the 48v 15ah pack costs just under 170€ without postages.

Still haven't figured out throttle, charger nor bms, so if you guys have ideas let me know :)
 
ferret said:
Did you find out what is the KV of the "big block"?
No unfortunately LightningRods hasn't got a laser tachometer to test it out so I don't have any clue of kv, I'm just hoping that it would be near to the gng motor :|
 
For the adapter you need something like this to bolt your 219 sprocket to.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-SLX-CS-HG81-10-HG81-10-HG81-10-speed-bike-bicycle-freewheel-flywheel-Round-tower/904240835.html

Page 2 of this thread has some sprocket adapter options.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7192&start=25

You could always use your existing sprockets that have the splines to your freehub and bolt your 219 sprocket to them. I have seen a few freewheel adapters done like that. Locate your mounting screws at the root of the sprocket teeth. This keeps it centered and will prevent your sprocket from slipping.
 

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DanGT86 said:
For the adapter you need something like this to bolt your 219 sprocket to.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-SLX-CS-HG81-10-HG81-10-HG81-10-speed-bike-bicycle-freewheel-flywheel-Round-tower/904240835.html

Page 2 of this thread has some sprocket adapter options.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7192&start=25

You could always use your existing sprockets that have the splines to your freehub and bolt your 219 sprocket to them. I have seen a few freewheel adapters done like that. Locate your mounting screws at the root of the sprocket teeth. This keeps it centered and will prevent your sprocket from slipping.
Looks good, bit expensive though.. question popped to my mind that does the freewheel actually hold up over 4kw power? :? I've read that someone broke his freewheel here at the ES and what I know is that there are only couple of pins transmitting the energy to the hub, so maybe I should use a disc brake mounting instead... and then the second problem will be with the disc brake :D
I searched ebay and here's what I came up with
One of this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ODYSSEY-HAZARD-HUB-48H-REAR-FLIP-FLOP-/231060586227?pt=US_Hubs&hash=item35cc48bef3
and two of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-double-hub-lock-nut-48mm-thread-Disc-brake-rotor-adaptor-mount-left-/281172343864?pt=US_Chainrings_BMX_Sprockets&hash=item41772d7c38
Still costs about 70€ without taxes... :|
 
not power is a problem for the Freewheel, it's torque. Normal cassette freewheels take 120Nm without issues.

To get your 4kW, you need to calc Power[kw]= ( Torque[Nm] x Speed[rpm] ) / 9550

For example 4kW = 120Nm x 320rpm / 9550

If you still want to add pedal torque you should stay around 100Nm. To archive that, you have to set the phase current of your controller so that your motor outputs a torque that multiplies due your chain reduction to 100Nm. For example if you want a 6:1 reduction, your motor shall output 16.6Nm. If your motor has a speed constant (KV) of 68rpm/V, it has a Kt (torque constant) of

Kt = 10 / KV
Kt = 10 / 68 = 0.147 Nm / A , note that this is Phase amps, not battery amps. You can set the phase amps in your controller setup.

Now you want the 16.6Nm, so you have to set your max phase amps to

16.6 / 0.147 = 112.9 A
 
crossbreak said:
not power is a problem for the Freewheel, it's torque. Normal cassette freewheels take 120Nm without issues.

To get your 4kW, you need to calc Power[kw]= ( Torque[Nm] x Speed[rpm] ) / 9550

For example 4kW = 120Nm x 320rpm / 9550

If you still want to add pedal torque you should stay around 100Nm. To archive that, you have to set the phase current of your controller so that your motor outputs a torque that multiplies due your chain reduction to 100Nm. For example if you want a 6:1 reduction, your motor shall output 16.6Nm. If your motor has a speed constant (KV) of 68rpm/V, it has a Kt (torque constant) of

Kt = 10 / KV
Kt = 10 / 68 = 0.147 Nm / A , note that this is Phase amps, not battery amps. You can set the phase amps in your controller setup.

Now you want the 16.6Nm, so you have to set your max phase amps to

16.6 / 0.147 = 112.9 A
Hey crossbreak!
Thanks for the info! True that it's not the power but the torque what actually breaks things, your explanation really cleared things up and apparently these freewheels aren't such crap after all! :D But the second problem, which I didn't write about earlier, is a very big lag at the freewheel. That problem doesn't occur when the front sprocket is big and rear one is small, but when they are the other way around it makes the problem. I'd like to feel that when I turn the throttle the bike pulls immediatly without lag, it'll improve the overall driving experience and control. On the other hand I really don't want to invest very much to get a fixed rear sprocket... After some googling I found this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fi/en/brand-x-joytech-601-mtb-singlespeed-hub/rp-prod107870
I just don't know does this even fit to stinky and does that adaper what I posted earlier fit to this hub, there's no mention on measurements! :?
 
There are hubs available with a disk brake flange on both sides. This could be a solution. Run a sprocket adapter on one side and a brake rotor on the other. Here are some wheels for sale with a hub like that. Sounds like the hub is narrower than standard but spacers may cure that. Nice looking wheel too.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=35066
 
DanGT86 said:
There are hubs available with a disk brake flange on both sides. This could be a solution. Run a sprocket adapter on one side and a brake rotor on the other. Here are some wheels for sale with a hub like that. Sounds like the hub is narrower than standard but spacers may cure that. Nice looking wheel too.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=35066
What the... :shock: Thanks for that!!! I've googled that kind of hubs everywhere and guess what, I didn't find any :D and then someone sells them HERE! :roll:

Btw here's what the mailman delivered today :p
controller.jpg
 
I was pretty excited when I saw those wheels/hubs for sale. There are dual disk flange front hubs for sale at
http://www.choppersus.com/store/product/874/Front-Hub-Dual-Disc-CP/

They don't look very strong to me and they are front only so 100mm wide.

John R. Holmes is a member on here and has a website voltriders.com
He is a wheel specialist and would be the first guy I would contact for a unique hub like that. If it exists in the bike or moped world I bet he knows about it.

Just saw this last night. It is a disk brake flange that attaches through the spoke holes of a standard wheel. You could probably attach it to the dive side of a wheel that already had a disk flange on the left. Might have to cut down the freewheel threads to get them out of the way so the adapter can slip over them.

http://www.firstprinciples.ca/products.html
 
interesting stuff here... I like the dual disk hub. Just get this hub, some spokes, a rim, a tire... and you are almost done :shock:

An adapter for mounting a 92T #219 Extron sprocket and a wider shaft should be no problem to make at the machine shop of your choice ;)

Ideas for the adapter you will find here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=26122&start=75
 
DanGT86 said:
I was pretty excited when I saw those wheels/hubs for sale. There are dual disk flange front hubs for sale at
http://www.choppersus.com/store/product/874/Front-Hub-Dual-Disc-CP/

They don't look very strong to me and they are front only so 100mm wide.

John R. Holmes is a member on here and has a website voltriders.com
He is a wheel specialist and would be the first guy I would contact for a unique hub like that. If it exists in the bike or moped world I bet he knows about it.

Just saw this last night. It is a disk brake flange that attaches through the spoke holes of a standard wheel. You could probably attach it to the dive side of a wheel that already had a disk flange on the left. Might have to cut down the freewheel threads to get them out of the way so the adapter can slip over them.

http://www.firstprinciples.ca/products.html
Yep that front hub looks like I wouldn't count on that at the rear end, especially on a dh-bike... That Holmes guy looks like he knows what he does! :D First principles product is really interesting, still I don't know can it be trusted when twisting it with 100nm, but the weird thing is that there's no dealer for 'em and no one sells them at ebay either. :?

crossbreak said:
interesting stuff here... I like the dual disk hub. Just get this hub, some spokes, a rim, a tire... and you are almost done :shock:

An adapter for mounting a 92T #219 Extron sprocket and a wider shaft should be no problem to make at the machine shop of your choice ;)

Ideas for the adapter you will find here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=26122&start=75
Yeah I order that dual disk hub from Stevil_Knevil so this all is really coming along pretty well! Next I must find good 26" 36H rim and spokes for it, maybe something like this.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fi/en/mavic-ex325-disc-mtb-rim-2013/rp-prod71051
 
exal xl 25 is cheap and quite strong... a lot better than the "special ebike" 19mm rims from exal, which bended quickly after some use. Without a heavy DD hub in the wheel, the rim doesn't have to be that strong. Most 2.5" tires still fit nice on the 25mm wide rims, with a fatter tire you might have clearance problems with the chain.
 
Thanks for going the DIY route, Dirty!

You really are doing E-S -and yourself- a HUGE favor by building your own wheel.

Take lots of pics, please 8)
 
Stevil_Knevil said:
Thanks for going the DIY route, Dirty!

You really are doing E-S -and yourself- a HUGE favor by building your own wheel.

Take lots of pics, please 8)
Thank You Stevil_Knevil for making that even possible to me! It's going to be so much fun when I get to the tinkering phase! :p
crossbreak said:
exal xl 25 is cheap and quite strong... a lot better than the "special ebike" 19mm rims from exal, which bended quickly after some use. Without a heavy DD hub in the wheel, the rim doesn't have to be that strong. Most 2.5" tires still fit nice on the 25mm wide rims, with a fatter tire you might have clearance problems with the chain.
Thanks for the comments crossbreak! That exal rim looks kinda light and thin though, are you sure it's going to get trough all the abuse at the trail? The Stinky has Sunrim S-type rims and those have ran fine but I have to ditch the rear rim because it has only 32 holes... it's a shame :( I think it deserves good wheel at the back end since I'm going to torture it real good. :twisted:
Oh and I already have 2.6" wide tyre at the rear and I'm planning to buy even wider like 2.8-3" and put that 2.6" to the front. So the chain clearance will be kind of a problem but I'm going to sort it out with the sprocket adapter.
crossbreak said:
you can also ask recumpence for a sprocket adapter for the 6-hole disc interface, if i remember right, he sells these.. special about his ones is that you can use them on the left and can still attach a disk brake.
That recumpence adapter looks really good but I already got 15cm long aluminium cylinder with about 20cm dia left out from another project so that will be spot on to use in this one! :)

Since I know you are real good with eletric motors and I'm kinda noob I have to ask you that what do you think about voltages on the motor. I have to buy Lipos soon because the motor will be here in a week or so and I'm still wondering should I buy 12s or 14s or even 16s :? This build is not after the maximum speed but the torque and acceleration and the top speed should be about 60kph. I know I can achieve this speed with every of those voltage levels with the right gearing but I'm wondering which one would be the most efficient way.
What I think is that when I stick with the 12s and put heavy gearing I would stay most of the time at "right" rpm's, accelerating from zero would draw lots of amps though but that's why I bought bigger motor that wont stall so easy... is there any reason why I should run the motor with higher voltage?

I just noticed the motor is sensored and i bought sensorless controller, damn it would have better run with those...
 
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