I'm pretty sure they'll at least help you out fixing it; might take a bit as they're still moving I think (or still sorting out after the move).
I have not had any problems with the readings on mine (other than peak A reading way different than the Turnigy or Watts Up, which I have not yet heard why that might be; typical readings and averages are close enough to the other two to trust them all).
If it reads current when none is flowing, then you might need to check in the manual on how to fix the offset for it. I only glanced at that part as I didn't need to do it.
But if it is not reading anything at all now, then it sounds like a shunt wire is disconnected. Is yours a DP or SA model? If SA, then you can disconnect the shunt from battery and controller, and just measure from the blue wire to the white wire and it ought to be essentially a dead short. If it's not, then either something's wrong inside the molded shunt or the cable from it to the SA connector.
If it's a DP model, then do the same measurement with it unplugged from the battery, white to blue on ohms of the meter, and it again ought to read a dead short. If not, open the controller and make sure you have a blue wire on one side of the shunt and a white on the other. (assuming it's using the CA-recommended color scheme). If it does, then measure the blue wire from one end (shunt) to the other (CA-DP connector) and make sure it's continuity checks ok. Same for white.
If the shunt wires from the plug to the shunt module or the controller check out, and the shunt is ok, then check from the connector to the inside of the CA itself, for blue and white wires.
If the reed on the wheel sensor is not working it's easy to check. go in a very quiet room and hold it next to your ear, and pass a magnet near it. You'll hear it click if it is working. Or use a meter to measure the wires from it at the CA board itself, with and without a magnet. Should be a short with magnet nearby and open without.
