cycborg
1 kW
"Poles" refers to the magnets, not the stator teeth. It will be an even number, for N-S pairs. Actually, the number you need for the controller is likely pole pairs, so count them up and divide by 2.
Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor
- Thread starter neptronix
- Start date
cwah
100 MW
Thanks, I've counted 46 magnets, which means 23 poles to populate in kelly's controller settings?
Kelly's instruction says this:
"(1)Motor Poles: Motor Poles, The pair pole number*2. Range: 2~128
Suggestion: Set according to the real motor poles on the nameplate of the motor, factory default is at 8."
Not sure what that really mean, I'd just put 23
Kelly's instruction says this:
"(1)Motor Poles: Motor Poles, The pair pole number*2. Range: 2~128
Suggestion: Set according to the real motor poles on the nameplate of the motor, factory default is at 8."
Not sure what that really mean, I'd just put 23
999zip999
100 TW
So a bare 1,500 watt leaf costs 310.00 usd shipped to USA ?
Allex
100 MW
I payed 295,98 USD for a bare 1500W to Canada, should be same for US.
crossbreak
1 MW
So the 1000W / 30 mm version still has the cable exit from the hollow axle? Like in the pic above? That's a bummer :?
999zip999
100 TW
And the 1,500 has the wires come out by the center ?
I'm thinking 72v 45 amp with a 4t in a 26in rim for an old mtb. Most look like a bike. Anybody have this setup ?
I'm thinking 72v 45 amp with a 4t in a 26in rim for an old mtb. Most look like a bike. Anybody have this setup ?
upek
10 W
Anyone tested this one with casette? Maybe even from this seller?
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/KRC01-2015-New-Style-Black-48V-1500W-Brushless-Gearless-Cassette-Hub-Motor-for-Rear-Wheel-Ebike/302448_32251798720.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/KRC01-2015-New-Style-Black-48V-1500W-Brushless-Gearless-Cassette-Hub-Motor-for-Rear-Wheel-Ebike/302448_32251798720.html
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Pro: 35mm magnets
Con: 145mm dropouts, cable exits axle tip, lamination thickness is uncertain (if it was 0.35mm, they would likely have advertised it)
Con: 145mm dropouts, cable exits axle tip, lamination thickness is uncertain (if it was 0.35mm, they would likely have advertised it)
999zip999
100 TW
I saw a leaf 1,500 copy for 199.00 shipped rsun or something. Well the pic. Looked good. China don't trust a pic.
markz
100 TW
999zip999 your post was # 888, thats an extremely lucky number in the asian culture. People pay millions to have that # in their address or telephone number. Just thought I'd mention that.
Cant go wrong with $8
Photoshop huh, I just ordered me Photoshop Essentials 8, had to get above the free s/h threshold
Cant go wrong with $8
999zip999
100 TW
Maybe the God's see a leaf 1,500 4t motor in my future.
markz
100 TW
Perhaps, but you must make a donation to the proper god.
GmagNeato
100 W
neptronix said:Try 4000 watts peak... that is when the Leaf will blow the MAC away at any wattage..
This motor does surprisingly well, heat wise, and power wise over 2000W.
Hi Nepi. I really appreciate your thorough exploitation of this motor. It's what I've used on my first build, and I'm loving it. Went with the 5T. Ordered the full kit just to get me going. I had to relace it to a new 26" wheel because they sent it laced to a 700c. But since then It's been working fine and nothing even really gets warm (controller mounted outboard). I replaced the stock 30a fuse with a 40a and have yet to pop one. I regularly see peaks at 2000W, cruising on average between 1100-1400W at full speed - 30-35mph on flats. I have yet to even see the motor temp increase more than a few degrees from ambient, although it's been fairly cold here in NC.
I've been running it on a recycled LiIon laptop cell DIY pack at 52v 20ah, which is soon to become my reserve, as i'm getting ready to upgrade battery and controller. Which leads me to ask..
I know you eventually had some issues with this motor, and wanted to ask: looking back, where would you draw the line on sustainable power this motor can handle? 4000W? Would you consider this max peak? If so what would you consider max continuous? if those watts are more volt heavy can it take much more? I am considering going as high as 24s with adaptto controller for future proofing and using with other motors down the line (possibly MXUS V3 3T) but want to use with leaf motor now and really get the most sustainable power out of it that I can. Not dead-set on Adaptto but I definitely want my next controller purchase to be of the "cry-once" variety. Do you see a benefit in running this high of voltage with 5T, or is it overkill? Should I stick with say 72v lipo and add more later for more powerful motor?
999zip999
100 TW
Some reason JohnCr says 48v for the muxus 3,000 3t needs a high amp 48v controller. I have a 5t, would like to try.a 4t. Im running 24s and getting a sinewave 100v 80a controller for it.
Next I'm getting a leaf 1,500 4t with a 12fet 40 amp controller also
Next I'm getting a leaf 1,500 4t with a 12fet 40 amp controller also
Kodin
1 kW
5t should be better for lower amp controllers. IIRC the 4t doesn't open up until 60A on a 26 inch wheel.
999zip999
100 TW
kondin so 60a and 80v 4,800 watts for a leaf 1,500 4t. Sounds like alot as a little warm ?
Kodin
1 kW
IIRC, Nep was running 60-80A on his 4T... Get a 5T, it has more copper fill anyway, which is the only way you'll get more torque. Adjust your max speed with voltage. Your batteries and controller will be more happy. These motors probably only top out at 45 MPH max anyway. If you're looking for more, go with a heavier motor. I like the Leafbike motors because you can still run 7-9 speed on them, assuming your dropouts are wide enough. Going with a 45mm stator motor like the MXUS will yield more power handling capacity, but you have to drop the chain gears.
Lurkin
100 kW
Stupid questions [I ask, because I'm pretty sure they are inconsistently referred to in this thread]:
Does the 4T have more copper or the 5T?
By 'copper' are you referring to the copper wire wound inside the motor?
If so, is the copper wire the same as 'copper fill'?
How do you actually know how much either copper wire and/or copper fill is in each T type of motor?
Does the 4T have more copper or the 5T?
By 'copper' are you referring to the copper wire wound inside the motor?
If so, is the copper wire the same as 'copper fill'?
How do you actually know how much either copper wire and/or copper fill is in each T type of motor?
Lurkin said:
you just need to compare the parallel strands x turns. for instance 4Tx15 = 60 total, or 5Tx13 = 65 total
as the cross section of the single strands normally remains the same (usually 0,2mm² on these motors), the motor with the most total strands has the highest copper fill thus the lowest copper losses.
Lurkin
100 kW
So from that, I'll take it that 'copper' references = "copper fill" = copper wire wound round stator teeth
Interesting, heres the email quoted from Leaf when I purchased the motor:
"* Would you 5 * 13T or 4 * 16T?
4* 16T is faster than 5 * 13T"
4 x 16 = 64 total
5 x 13 = 65 total
Seems pretty close to me... Anyone know what it is for 6T?
Interesting, heres the email quoted from Leaf when I purchased the motor:
"* Would you 5 * 13T or 4 * 16T?
4* 16T is faster than 5 * 13T"
4 x 16 = 64 total
5 x 13 = 65 total
Seems pretty close to me... Anyone know what it is for 6T?
the 6T i believe has 10strands so 60in total.
whether the 4T or 5T is the better choice depends on YOUR other parts like wheel size, battery voltage, desired topspeed..
I would settle on 16s - 20s battery because this is the sweetspot of power density of todays controllers.
than in larger wheels i would take the 5T and in smaller wheels the 4T. in very small wheels maybe even a 3T is the better choice or the 4T with a bit of field weakening if you have such controller.
hope this helps.
whether the 4T or 5T is the better choice depends on YOUR other parts like wheel size, battery voltage, desired topspeed..
I would settle on 16s - 20s battery because this is the sweetspot of power density of todays controllers.
than in larger wheels i would take the 5T and in smaller wheels the 4T. in very small wheels maybe even a 3T is the better choice or the 4T with a bit of field weakening if you have such controller.
hope this helps.
CobraJet said:
I either would take the Phaserunner + CA, or the Adaptto Mini-E unit for the Leaf. Both have smooth and silent torque control and features like variable e-brake and field weakening.
You can definitely get same power from cheaper stuff (like lyen 12FET for instance), but imo the comfort and features are worth the higher price.
markz
100 TW
Sunwin controllers are cheap, I just bought one for $25.
