Looks like this is my next project: Razor RSF650

Looking good, thats what I've done to my motors for longevity conformal coated the inners, let's us nw how u get on love to see one on a sabvaton 72v or so have to be careful how long you give it flat out but flat out be doing some serious mile an hour for a stand up scooter.
 
Tested the motor today connected to a Phaserunner Controller.

The "autotune" function, based on my setup - 72V, 21 AH Li-ion battery pack, calculated the Kv to be 115.90 RPM/V (3 pole pairs).

Under no load, I was able to spin it to around 7100 RPM's a couple of times with max throttle applied. But that's about it as it usually max'd out between 5000 - 6000 Rpm's. It did not want to spin any faster.

At max throttle and max rpm, the motor kind of "hesitates" or kind of "judders". It's just a little bit. But I thought it would be smooth all around. Is my first time messing with this type of motor so I will fiddle with the settings to iron out the wrinkles. Under load I am sure the motor will behave different.

The motor did get warm to the touch while testing.

I am still contemplating if I will go the Sabvoton route. I just might borrow the one I have on my Enduro to test it out too.
 
Ianhill said:
Looking good, thats what I've done to my motors for longevity conformal coated the inners, let's us nw how u get on love to see one on a sabvaton 72v or so have to be careful how long you give it flat out but flat out be doing some serious mile an hour for a stand up scooter.
Click to expand...

Conformal instead of electrical paint?

Electrical paint once it gets pretty warm, cures rock hard.
Never tried conformal in a motor.
How does that hold up?
 
Ambersil conformal coating looks exactly the same as red insulating varnish id say they are too of the same not really notice it's there if all is well.
 
Ianhill said:
Ambersil conformal coating looks exactly the same as red insulating varnish id say they are too of the same not really notice it's there if all is well.
Click to expand...

Gotcha...didn't realize that is what you were talking about. We've had this conversation previously.
 
rockstar195 said:
Got the fork with suspension fork yesterday. (Note: stock is rigid).
Click to expand...

I bet they are just springs inside the tubes and not actual shocks.

If you want to make them into real shocks, consider pulling them apart and adding a gas piston like seen below inside. Now they do actual damping. I didn't check to see if these ones specifically will fit inside your spring tubes, but you get the idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Upfitters-extended-compressed-MEASUREMENT/dp/B07L43M829/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+piston&qid=1576082279&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQTJCT0xMR0daU080JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTg5NzI4MTVDWEZGSDJSVzAzSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzgzMDY0MUtFQk9DV1dEWTBDSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 
I used an adjustable set of them years ago on a local steel works switch panel, must of been hundreds of switches no data bus of any kind it was all loom work hundreds of 1mm wires in the biggest gland I've ever seen must of been 100mm or so, but anyway those where used to lift the panel for access to the underside of the switch gear we had them with bike valves on so you could adjust them to suit your ride weight.
 
Ianhill said:
I used an adjustable set of them years ago on a local steel works switch panel, must of been hundreds of switches no data bus of any kind it was all loom work hundreds of 1mm wires in the biggest gland I've ever seen must of been 100mm or so, but anyway those where used to lift the panel for access to the underside of the switch gear we had them with bike valves on so you could adjust them to suit your ride weight.
Click to expand...

Can you find those gas pistons please?
 
Variable force gas strut, you could proberly fit a Schrader valve to the bottom of one and make it adjustable not bad idea really set your own spring weight and damping getting it all to fit would not be easy mind some adapting will be needed, but there's no decent suspension fork this small with good quality that I've seen that could be adjusted in any way at all.
 
Ianhill said:
Variable force gas strut, you could proberly fit a Schrader valve to the bottom of one and make it adjustable not bad idea really set your own spring weight and damping getting it all to fit would not be easy mind some adapting will be needed, but there's no decent suspension fork this small with good quality that I've seen that could be adjusted in any way at all.
Click to expand...

yes...exactly why I wanted more info on them. I have a use where I have springs in the forks. It's better than nothing. I have the best there is in something ready made. If I want better suspension I have to make it myself.
 
rsf650batt (2).jpeg

UPDATE:

1) Both halves of the battery are finished. Will be joined at the middle and "folded" together.
2) Waiting for the BMS to arrive
3) Waiting for Kelly Controller KLS7230S to arrive (48V-72V, 120A continuous). Went with the Kelly instead of the Sabvoton because it's smaller.
4) Battery specs: a) 72V, 30AH
 
This thing is a blast to ride!

Stock rigid fork has been ditched for the MX650 coil fork. The rigid stock fork was to harsh imo.
- Had to weld a bracket onto the existing fork bracket and cut off part of the old one for proper relocation for the brake caliper.
- MX650 160mm disc brake had to be used for what I did
- The front fender had to be modified to fit the MX650 fork

Bearings on both front and rear wheels have been upgraded, since everywhere says the stock ones go out.

Using a Kelly KLS7230S controller. On the 11 tooth sprocket for the motor hit 45mph according to GPS.
Waiting for the 14 tooth sprocket to arrive to test.

It hauls ass and because so, the freewheel still has to be welded so that regenerative braking can be used, in addition to the disc brakes. Regenerative braking I say is mandatory, because the disc brakes work, but not what I consider safe.

View attachment 2
View attachment 1
MX650forkonRSF650.jpeg
 
Top work fella sound like you need a brake upgrade, get a 203mm rotor on the front and a hydraulic caliper that will up your stopping power, if use a 180mm on the rear and go hydraulic there too, I'm not one for keeping the brake switch throttle cut and I prefer the clean look on the bars with less clutter.

Bet it's a blast.

Have a look if there's any room to move the caliper back with out it fowling the wheel if not sticking with same size disc and just go hydraulic even that will still feel like double the stopping power.
 
Awesome work. Would love to see a top speed run. :bigthumb: Which wheel bearings did you use?

Also would love to know alternatives for hydraulic brakes if you were to go down that road. I have a feeling some MTB hydraulics would do it, but would probably need a custom bracket. Either that or weld the caliper mounting spots at the same MTB distances so you could use standard parts.
 
Mtb hydraulics will straight swap use the same mountings there are, IS mtb disc brake bracket adapters to go from 160 to180/203mm disc all will bolt straight up discs and all but make sure if you go for a bigger disc that when the caliper is stepped back there's room so it's not fowling the rim and wont fit.
 
Mtb hydraulics will straight swap they both use the same mountings, IS mtb disc brake bracket adapters to go from 160 to180/203mm disc all will bolt straight up discs and all but make sure if you go for a bigger disc that when the caliper is stepped back there's room so it's not fowling the rim and wont fit.

180 looks like it will go but 203mm maybe tight from the picture it's hard to tell.
 
Thanks guys!!! Just the help I needed that pointed me in the right direction!

The biggest disc available is 180mm because the bolt circle diameter (BCD) is 48mm. All the 203mm discs have a 44mm BCD. I could / might try to modify the rotor I have, but still the rotor/caliper combo might be too big for the wheel. I would prefer the 203mm over the 180mm. Will found out what's possible.
(CAN'T FIND: 203mm disc brake rotor w/ 48mm BCD)

I'm going to stick with 160mm MX650 disc brake rotor on the front for now, as it grabs very well when I engage the brake. As a matter of fact it grabs too well that I have to use the rear brake first then slowly engage the front.


Discbrakes.jpeg

Reardiscbrake2.jpeg

Reardiscbrake.jpeg
 
Latest mods:

14 tooth sprocket installed: better top end speed

Freewheel has been welded. Tried out regen braking but it made the chain jump all over the place, made the motor warm up so I disabled it.

Upgraded to Shimano BR-M375 Mechanical Disc Brake Caliper w/ 180mm disc brake rotor and sintered brake pads.
 
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