MAC motor suddenly stopped working

[ohzee]

You mean hall sensors ? I have some extras I could mail you one if your in the US or lyen sells them that's
where I got mine.

 

[dnmun]

knoxie was totally right. it is unusual for the hall sensors to fail without a twistoff or severely overheated.

i assume the guy did not know to rotate the wheel backwards when he tested the hall sensors. it is a geared motor.

i find it so simple to test hall sensors it baffles me as to why people would spend so much money buying the tester from lyen that greentime sells for half the price even.

to test hall sensor (for the umpteenth time) power up the controller, no throttle or phase wires need to be connected, but you have to connect the 5 pin plug.

on the motor side of the plug, put the voltmeter (20V scale) black probe on the black wire by pushing the tip into the back of the plug so that you contact the pin inside, and the red probe on the red wire. measure the power voltage. should be about 4.3-4.7V.

then measure the blue green and yellow wires the same way using the black ground for the black probe from the voltmeter. rotate the wheel backwards slowly and measure the voltages on each of the GBY hall sensor leads.

report those numbers here.

 

[knoxie]

Knoxie, I don't give a damn who you are, you sound like a twit. The purpose of the forum is to help people with problems and share technical info. Your time must be worth nothing. Go stroke your ego somewhere else if you are not going to contribute something useful.

Efold, I would suggest trying to replace the bad sensor while you are waiting. It might be easier than replacing the whole board.

I sound like a twit? I diagnosed the problem as did others so why did you chip in? the purpose of this forum is to help people and that is what we all do, we dont however offer to rip people off like you do though, you sell motors with low grade sensors in them and then have them back when they are out of warranty to fix them.

I am not here to stroke my ego I was pointing out the facts to you, I always contribute something useful and I dont charge anything for it or use it as lever to make money as you are doing, you have made 26 posts on here and you say I havent contributed anything useful :lol:

Does everyone on here know you are shipping motors with bad sensors in them? if not its time that they did? I would suggest anyone in your neck of the woods gets their equipment from a reputable supplier like ilia.

You joined the forum in 2007 and have made 27 posts in that time, you are another classic example of a leech on this board who bleed off other peoples ideas, testing etc on here, make no input at all until they have established a business and then come back when they want to promote it, this goes on a lot on this forum and it stinks.

 

[knoxie]

knoxie was totally right. it is unusual for the hall sensors to fail without a twistoff or severely overheated.

i assume the guy did not know to rotate the wheel backwards when he tested the hall sensors. it is a geared motor.

i find it so simple to test hall sensors it baffles me as to why people would spend so much money buying the tester from lyen that greentime sells for half the price even.

to test hall sensor (for the umpteenth time) power up the controller, no throttle or phase wires need to be connected, but you have to connect the 5 pin plug.

on the motor side of the plug, put the voltmeter (20V scale) black probe on the black wire by pushing the tip into the back of the plug so that you contact the pin inside, and the red probe on the red wire. measure the power voltage. should be about 4.3-4.7V.

then measure the blue green and yellow wires the same way using the black ground for the black probe from the voltmeter. rotate the wheel backwards slowly and measure the voltages on each of the GBY hall sensor leads.

report those numbers here.

Thanks Dnmun 8) I couldnt have said it better myself, maybe lowtek bikes should sift through some of the 6500 posts you have made, maybe he might learn something and maybe he might stop his business going down the pan :lol:

 

[knoxie]

Oh and I just checked on lowtek bikes website this little gem

Just in case anyone was going to order something from them, check the small print.

WE DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS. ALL SALES ARE FINAL.
We sell high quality products with warranties and support. All products are new unless otherwise marked. Due to the nature of electrical products, it is not feasible for us to take returns and give refunds.

So if he does sell you a motor with a bad hall sensor (which is likely as according to him they almost always go) then no shit that he is keen for you to not send it back because erm....you cant!! unless you pay him 60 bucks

Does ebikes.ca operate the same policy?

I would suggest that this alone is a good reason for nobody to do business with you!

 

[efold]

I have now opened the motor and removed the old PCB and hall sensors (i had to wait for a gear cassette removal tool, hence the long wait). I did this without removing the yoke from the stator, as I couldn't get it off. I had ordered a bunch of Honeywell SS41 hall sensors, which I glued onto the stator with epoxy, replacing the old ones. Unfortunately, I'm still awaiting the package from Paul with the replacement PCB.

So my question is, is it possible to wire the hall sensors to connect directly to the controller cable, without connecting to the PCB? Or should I be patient and wait for the PCB?

 

[efold]

It's alive again! I feel really stupid now that I figured out the real problem. I did manage to solder the new halls onto the old board after removing the epoxy with a hairdryer (putting tape on the opening, concentrating the heat), but the problem with the dead hall persisted. Checking the cable once again, I noticed a small cut on the phase/hall wire.

It turns out the cable to the blue hall sensor was broken. As the phase/hall cable was too long for my taste anyway, I simply cut it where the hall wire had broken, soldered the cables back onto the motor, epoxied everything thoroughly, and put everything back together.

Now everything is working perfectly. I took the opportunity to change to spike tires while the rear wheel was off, and will take the bike for a test ride now. Thanks for all the help! Even though I was wrong about the dead hall, I learnt a lot about my MAC motor.

 

[999zip999]

I replaced the halls to find out it was a resistor. From the same number resistor from a signalab bms although smaller it worked. Read the thread glad to see on E.S. will all keep are powder dry and are guns close. Spirted debate.

 

[DAND214]

6 months later I'm asking the same question. How in the hell did you get the pcb loose from the stator?

I've gotten the epoxy off the face of the board and now what. i see so much glue I don't know where to start or stop.

before I ask Paul for a new board since I'm rather sure I'm gonna break it.
Does anyone have one laying around. And some sensors. i have 3 ss40a, will they work?

Also which leads are which? I'm sure I won't be able to tell after getting the old ones out.

Dan

 

[efold]

Sorry for the late reply, I thought this thread was dead by now. For me, lots of heat enabled me to melt the epoxy and get the PCB off. A regular hair fan did provide enough heat, but only after modifying the "nozzle" with tape to concentrate the air flow. This however resulted in overheating my fan, but luckily they generally have overheating protection. Using a heat gun is probably recommended.

 

[oldtown169]

knoxie was totally right. it is unusual for the hall sensors to fail without a twistoff or severely overheated.

i assume the guy did not know to rotate the wheel backwards when he tested the hall sensors. it is a geared motor.

i find it so simple to test hall sensors it baffles me as to why people would spend so much money buying the tester from lyen that greentime sells for half the price even.

to test hall sensor (for the umpteenth time) power up the controller, no throttle or phase wires need to be connected, but you have to connect the 5 pin plug.

on the motor side of the plug, put the voltmeter (20V scale) black probe on the black wire by pushing the tip into the back of the plug so that you contact the pin inside, and the red probe on the red wire. measure the power voltage. should be about 4.3-4.7V.

then measure the blue green and yellow wires the same way using the black ground for the black probe from the voltmeter. rotate the wheel backwards slowly and measure the voltages on each of the GBY hall sensor leads.

report those numbers here.

I have an issue with my mac now and Cellman suspects it's the clutch but I can easily check the voltage readings before I order a new clutch, why not. Should there be a voltage reading on the GBY when the wheel is not spinning and what should the voltages be when I spin the wheel backwards? Thx