MAC motor worries

[drummerian]

Test the controller with an ebike tester... (But you don't have one huh?)

not easy to get fast in the UK, and they don't do anything my scope and multimeter don't already.

Thanks for the advice though

 

[drummerian]

So after a but more probing with the multimeter some interesting results.

Swapped the green and blue HALL wires over at the motor end. This resulted in the green hall responding correctly and the blue (now in the place that used to be occupied by green) showing the same behavior as the green previously was (stuck high).

This makes me believe that the motor is in fact fine as is the wiring to it?...There is a controller problem here?

Reran this test today and got the results I had expected this time. Must have has a bad multimeter connection last time as the green phase didn't work on any input to the controller.

Have now isolated the green hall and the output doesn't pulse to gnd like the other phases.

Will swap the hall out and try again :/

 

[cal3thousand]

Hang in there dude.

I took 2 attempts that ended up nowhere so far. I plan on taking another wack at it this weekend and making sure all the wires are OK. I might just run all new phases and halls to be dead sure there isn't an issue.

 

[drummerian]

Hang in there dude.

I took 2 attempts that ended up nowhere so far. I plan on taking another wack at it this weekend and making sure all the wires are OK. I might just run all new phases and halls to be dead sure there isn't an issue.

Just waiting on the new halls now then can get one in. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Can't understand why it failed, motor wasn't even warm :/

 

[mr.electric]

You could open the controller and do a visual inspection for loose plugs on the board or other obvious issues.

 

[drummerian]

Already done

Pretty sure it must be this hall that is the problem. Waiting on replacements which will arrive tomorrow. Can't understand how it failed :/

 

[mr.electric]

One failed hall and it should run but be all choppy.
Anyways the hall installation is difficult. If you can get that done you can do any Ebike related repairs.

 

[drummerian]

Going to fix this and then see how she preforms. Will hopefully find some time to do it tonight.

Still can't believe my clutch failed though. Will plug the controller in and see what the settings are.

Thanks to all that have helped me diagnose the issue, fingers crossed I can fix the thing now.

 

[gzmann]

As I said a few times before--its the controller

Interesting to see whether it will be better??????

 

[drummerian]

But I have tried the controller with a new hall and magnet and it does work. (outside of the motor, waiting on epoxy before I can do anything)

 

[gzmann]

That makes me wonder now if perhaps tmy hall is not working properly??
The older controller might work - but the newer one does not work with it

please update when you have it finished!

thanks

 

[drummerian]

I will do, just waiting on some bits which should arrive tomorrow. Hope to have it all up and running by the weekend.

 

[drummerian]

Right, Hall replaced, I actually did all 3 as it was easier this way.

For others reference these are the halls I used:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1470593

The motor now works.

In conclusion I have replaced:
Clutch, this was only working one way
Hall (Green what was the problem but was easier to replace all 3 halls).

Now, I will try and program the controller and add in some limits, just in case this is what damaged my 0.5mile old clutch. The hall sensor however....well...the motor wasn't even warm. Must have been a manufacturing defect. Still, at least I have managed to fix it myself.

To those user on here offering advice and support thankyou

Happy ebiking.

 

[o00scorpion00o]

Right, Hall replaced, I actually did all 3 as it was easier this way.

For others reference these are the halls I used:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1470593

The motor now works.

In conclusion I have replaced:
Clutch, this was only working one way
Hall (Green what was the problem but was easier to replace all 3 halls).

Now, I will try and program the controller and add in some limits, just in case this is what damaged my 0.5mile old clutch. The hall sensor however....well...the motor wasn't even warm. Must have been a manufacturing defect. Still, at least I have managed to fix it myself.

To those user on here offering advice and support thankyou

Happy ebiking.

I wouldn't mess with the controller, if cell-man ships the mac kit with the same settings on the controller for around 40 amps battery, it should last a long time. I don't know what he sets the phase amps at ? Maybe e-mail him and ask but it should take off nice and smooth.

Pat's 8t mac over 2 years old is still perfect, old type clutch and on 48 volts.

Well done for getting it going !

 

[drummerian]

I would at least like to check the settings, and I need to set my LVC anyway. It shouldn't have done but it has already managed to damage a clutch (no soft start setup???)

A quick google hasn't resulted in much info on the programming, just some dead links to software. What would people recommend in terms of software and settings to use for a long lasting commuter MAC

 

[o00scorpion00o]

I would at least like to check the settings, and I need to set my LVC anyway. It shouldn't have done but it has already managed to damage a clutch (no soft start setup???)

A quick google hasn't resulted in much info on the programming, just some dead links to software. What would people recommend in terms of software and settings to use for a long lasting commuter MAC

The EB 312 controller has a soft start compared to the older type on off EB212, it was more like an on off switch.

I highly doubt the controller stock settings killed the clutch, but if you need to program it I strongly recommend you check if cell-man installed 2 additional shunts on the underside of the pub like on mine, if so the battery current will not match the software settings.

My advice is to start off with 10 amps battery current to see if it pulls 10 amps or so nominal if there are additional shunts the current would be much higher.

Set the phase current for around 60 amps max and see what you think.

Your kit didn't come with the upgrades so you can't monitor temps and holding your hand on the geared hubs doesn't give a great idea of the actual temps, if the covers are hot then inside is roasting.

You will have to enter some value in each box for instance, you can't do regen but you still have to enter a value for regen etc.

Then set your 3 speed switch etc.

Set the lvc for the min total voltage x the number of cells so 16S LiPo and 3.5 V per cell would =56 volts higher would be better for life and to help keep on balance.

Lifep04 will be different etc.

2kw is a nice safe max for the mac 8t obviously sustained or bogging down up a steep hill often enough and long enough will eventually kill it. But it's a great little motor for its size.

Too much torque is hard on clutch and gears so,watch the phase amps, when you yank the throttle it should take off nice and smooth, if it wants to lift the front wheel then you got too much torque.

 

[drummerian]

Thanks for the advice

Any ideas on a guide to actual programming though, software link etc?

 

[o00scorpion00o]

Here are settings I was messing about with.

However, the rated current (battery) says 60 amps so that would be about right on 16S LiPo giving around 3500 watts, so I'm not so sure now the software setting were wrong or not, but notice the LVC if not correct because I had it set for around 3.5 volts on 16S LiPo, so it should be 56 volts, however Paul had modded the controller resistors for higher than 60 volts regen and 45V operation so you really got to ask Paul and he should be able to e-mail you the software too and the drivers for the cable or at least link you to the site, I can't rem the site.

Oh and see the battery and phase settings ? yes, that's why I killed my MAC !!! But could that motor climb hills fast or what on 16S LiPo ?

 

[drummerian]

Thanks again,

Was hoping to get the software asap so I can go play But will email cellman anyway as well.

If anyone has any other ideas please post up

 

[drummerian]

Thanks again,

Was hoping to get the software asap so I can go play But will email cellman anyway as well.

If anyone has any other ideas please post up

 

[drummerian]

After replacing the clutch and having the motor working for 4miles happily I have now managed to sheer the keyway holding the clutch to the shaft.

I am not having much luck with this motor at all!

Are new axles available for these things?

 

[melodious]

Agh. Bad luck for ya dude. I'm about to replace my clutch and cross my fingers I don't run into similar problems as you. Going to buy an " el cheapo" harbor freight gear puller to keep the voodoo at arm's length. :wink:

Have you tried going mid geared (GNG/LR & BBS)? Then no motor problems. Just drive train problems. :lol:

I want a build that lasts and maintenance free as I can. One day it will happen.

As far as new axles, yes, you can get another. Check Em3ev.com site for MAC motor parts. I'd log in and let Cellman know your problem in case you need the axle & key way are separate purchases

 

[drummerian]

Another cellman order it is then!

New clutch with the new gears will go in as well. May as well put some nice phase wire upgrades in at the same time.

I WILL make this motor work!

My only other question before raising the order is regarding motor controller. As seen in earlier posts in this thread, people seem to think the controller I purchased with the MAC is far too beefy and could be the reason I am damaging components. Now, my thoughts were that the controllers were programmed by cellman so as to NOT damage bits.

Should I be purchasing a smaller controller at the same time?

Thanks all,
Ian

 

[teklektik]

My only other question before raising the order is regarding motor controller. As seen in earlier posts in this thread, people seem to think the controller I purchased with the MAC is far too beefy and could be the reason I am damaging components. Now, my thoughts were that the controllers were programmed by cellman so as to NOT damage bits.

Should I be purchasing a smaller controller at the same time?

Buy a CA V3 and jack up the ramping UpRate to soften the stress on getaways. With a freewheel in there, riding style makes all the difference - the motor will take a lot of power but it doesn't like being slammed with it - things break. If you are eating clutches and shearing keys, it sounds like your getaways and your motor re-engagements at speed are punishing.

Throttle ramping will let you run higher amps at speed, while minimizing the abuse off the line. This will cost more than getting a smaller controller, but you will get a pile of other useful features - like current limiting instead of reprogramming the controller and automatic power rollback when temps get too high (since you have a temp sensor already). You can mimic ramping behavior manually and fiddle with the controller programming, but this is much simpler if you can swing the bucks.

 

[drummerian]

Currently I am building my own CA style device, but this is bery much in development. But this is a great suggestion

I am more interested at the moment as to whether I will be able to calibrate in this type of soft start in to my current controller?

thanks again