Machining on White Industries ENO Freewheel

[Alan B]

I have a White Industries ENO Freewheel that is contacting the hubmotor freewheel thread ends before it reaches the hubmotor body, and it stops farther out from the hubmotor than I would like.

I might like to chuck it in the lathe and open up the inside of the nut to provide some additional clearance for these long threads. Has anyone done anything like this, and is this stainless going to be difficult to machine? Will a carbide boring bar be sufficient??

Thanks in advance,

 

[acuteaero]

Funny thing, I was just reading Luke's old ENO broaching thread yesterday- he posted video of the whole process- turning the bore and broaching. The stainless core appears to cut just fine on the lathe.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=17602

In general- in my experience- Different grades cut very differently- even pretty tough stuff should cut OK with light passes with a carbide bar, just watch out for work hardening if you let the tool rub in the cut.

 

[Alan B]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Upon closer inspection I'm not sure this will work.

 

[Alan B]

Cutting this much material away from the nut would eliminate the slots used to disassemble it. This might not be a problem.

Mounting the part in the lathe also turns the part in the direction that causes it to freewheel when trying to bore the core.

It is possible to work around this. But it complicates the job.

Any suggestions?

 

[Thud]

Allan, I did the setup work on the broached White freewheels.

I just chucked it in a 3-jaw & ground a tool to cut the internal with the machine running in revers. the tool was mounted upside down & the lathe turned CCW.

The stainless machines like butter with HSS cutters.

all you need is a little deeper clearance on the shoulder it sounds...an inverted small boring bar should be a walk in the park.

if you lathe has no reversing function....you can tape the internal boss to the external & use very light cuts to make clearance.
have fun.
T

 

[Alan B]

Thanks Thud for the info!

I've never cut in reverse, I modded my lathe with a big DC motor and never wired up the reversing switch, but we could fix that. Not difficult.

To make enough clearance for the freewheel threads to clear nearly all the way through it would have to be cut quite a bit, looks like it would eliminate those teeth that are used to take them apart. But I'll probably never need to disassemble it anyway. So that's probably okay.

Is HSS a better choice here than carbide?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Thud]

Carbibe or hss will cut this stuff just fine, Its a very free machining alloy. you can allways make a custom removal tool if you need to remove the original contact points....just look at from a few angles....something will pesent.

Sounds like your hub thread section is a little long also. If its aluminum you could take a little off the end just spinning the motor on the bike & improv a tool rest & get a sharp gouge in there with a light touch.

100 ways to skin a cat. :lol:

 

[Alan B]

The Cromotor has a very long freewheel thread.

Before cutting anything I probably need to get the frame and swingarm together and see where the chainline ends up. Quite a few free variables now.

But it is great to know these options are available.

Thanks!

 

[boostjuice]

Carbibe or hss will cut this stuff just fine

Yes for the inner part (its not post-cut hardened), but hell no for the outer! i just spent yesterday breaking/bluntening HSS and carbide tapping tools trying to put threads in the sickbikeparts drilled flange outer, the inner is no problem though as it obviously isnt subjected to the same hardening process.