Magic or real.

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Jul 25, 2015
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11
Location
NW Arkansas USA
I am going to be running some lead acid batteries and I know I am going to get yelled at for saying so but it is what I can afford right now.

I have been looking at chargers and came across one that also vibrates so it can make the sulfating break up and blend in.

Do these actually work or is it just a medicine show and I am being taken?

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/48-volt/restore/bm48021.html
 
200 for 2amps doesn't seem like a fair price? Will that even be fast enough for you?

What ah will your pack be, and what is the charge c-rate of the cells?
I'm thinking a more standard and higher power charger would be what you want, but I've never tried to charge my leadacid with anything other than a trickle charger or the car alternator.

if cc/cv is a proper charge method for lead ( I think it is), perhaps 2 (for 48v) of tesla's meanwells would work. About 90$? (for both) and they deliver around 13amps. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68195&hilit=meanwell+35
 
bobthemotorcycle said:
I am going to be running some lead acid batteries and I know I am going to get yelled at for saying so but it is what I can afford right now.

I did the same for years, which I now regret. In the long run, it isn't even cheaper than lithium has gotten.

But if that's what you must do, don't depend on any charger to make things better. Just keep depth of discharge below 50% if you can, and charge back up as soon as you're done riding. Top up at least once a week in the off season. Try to store your bike in a climate controlled space.
 
Chalo said:
Try to store your bike in a climate controlled space.

I plan on driving it everyday including winter and snowy days. I am going to get an insulated bag for cold days and put some kind of small heater in it to keep my batteries warm.
 
I've got no idea, but it's amazing what kind of lithium battery you could buy for just a hair over the price of that charger thingy.

Very bad investment if you are limited on money.
 
bobthemotorcycle said:
Thanks for the answers but what I am really asking is "does the high frequency action actually work or is it just snake medicine?
My guess is that it works better on flooded lead-acid than on sealed lead-acid (AGM & Gel)
 
Sounds like snake oil to me. Sulfation caught early on a liquid cell battery is reversible. Something like that charger might work to prevent it on that type of battery if used through the entire battery's life. Maybe. SLA are different. there is no free liquid, so you aren't going to get the Sulfer crystals to shake off and float away.
 
My Save-A-Battery 36 volt charger caused my SLA pack to revive dramatically, giving me an extra year or so of full-throttle cruising when the pack began to sag. Amazingly I can still go 10 miles at half throttle with pedaling at about 10 mph tops, but it is not much help on the few inclined portions. My experience may not be typical or represent the results you may achieve with your set up because of so many variables involved. Not familiar with the actual science involved. When my balancing ability and leg gets better and I get back to riding every day, I hope to purchase a new battery set up for the Black Daliah, as I now call her. :lol:
P.S. On the charger that came with the kit, you're supposed to disconnect from it when the green light comes on. The Save-A-Battery you leave hooked up all the time.
 
I have tried a desulfating charger on a basket-case flooded battery and it did revive it somewhat, but it was still useless. I expect it would work OK on a battery that wasn't severely damaged. I wouldn't pay $200 for a lead-acid charger, though.
 
Does seem expensive if you are short on money.

I would think while riding, with the batteries on the bike, they would get plenty of vibration for free.
 
The "vibration" the OP refers to is more likely high frequency voltage oscillation.
 
I used an electronic pulse desulphator on a SLA battery for about a year and a half and the SLAs did not degrade in performance in that time. I would say it works, but as others have said. You'd be much better off to save the money and buy new non-SLA batteries instead.
 
I don't know your specific unit, but the way these battery medics have tended to work is by charging very slowly, which is intended to do the desulphating. The vibrating of the charger isn't the actual desulphating, but it is the result of charging with a pulsing frequency to the charge, which will "Dissolve" rather than "Flake," which would further damage the battery. Just vibrating the battery would be bad under those circumstances.

I've never heard anyone say the battery is then like new, but a lot of people say bad batteries did improve. There is the suggestion that some work better than others because they use only the "Right" frequency range. Don't ask how to tell.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Simplest-Chargerdesulfator-Ever/
 
bobthemotorcycle said:
I am going to be running some lead acid batteries and I know I am going to get yelled at for saying so but it is what I can afford right now.
I have been looking at chargers and came across one that also vibrates so it can make the sulfating break up and blend in.
Do these actually work or is it just a medicine show and I am being taken?
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/48-volt/restore/bm48021.html
You are fooling yourself if you believe that cheap lead and an expensive charger is a sensible option.
Sulfation is only one small issue with lead, and by no means the biggest issue !
I suggest you step back and rethink your options.
You have been shown lighter longer lasting , similar priced options, but for some reason you are ignoring the advice you asked for in the other thread.
 
Seems to me there are cheaper desulphinating chargers than 200 bucks.
 
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