Meanwell clone- AD488.3-400W power supply mods

[DrkAngel]

MeanWell S-150-24, and similar 150w 24V, will drop voltage severely to a "fault" condition if draw is more than ~8A.

ahhh really? so theres no current limiting, it loweres the voltage?
strange. never heard before. really. i had alot supplys in the past years. but they all where from servers.
loud, but powerfull. all these supplys reducing/limiting amps.

thank you. so something learned again.

150w power supply at 24V = 6.25A rated.
Current limited at ~8A = 130% of rated ~195w (to handle brief surges)
Exceed ~8A (195w) limit and unit will fault ... voltage will drop in a fault condition.
Correction - Current is regulated! Unit faults to low voltage from short or excess draw, watts not determined.
Keep at or below rated watts for reliable operation.

 

[DrInnovation]

Be Aware!
I purchased recommended 48V 400w PS but received different model.
Listed model has changed, from same link.
...

Received different labeled item from same link.
Internal pcb is labeled same, and appears identical.

Tests, so far:
OEM
Voltage range - 53.18V - 33.09V
R35 = 1k
R40 = 1.5K
Fan speed varies with voltage adjustment. Tested for thermal fan regulation via hairdryer = no change, will monitor during 10A+ charge.
(Fan speed change determined via LED light w\pwm low setting - wagon wheel effect)
Idles 8w (no load)

Preliminary guess for maximum usable range. (Will confirm next week.)
Replace R35 w/1K external pot 0A - 10A+ adjustable
Replace R40 w/2K external pot ~28V - 63V adjustable
Will add V-A meter ...

Running my 33.3V 43.2Ah battery down .
Will use to test oem Amp output @ 37.35V (anticipate 10A+ ?)

Will also test add resistor values for limiting amps and increase voltage ...

I also got one labeled like the above.. but unlike your, out of the box mine had a max voltage of 48.8. Resistance measured at R40 and R35 were about same as in your posts. (R35 was .95K and R40 was 1.4K) I applied the R40 and R35 mods but cannot get it above 49.2v (did not measure current limit yet). With a variable POT added on R40 (in parallel) I've dropped the resistance down to .5Kohms and SVR1 will max out the voltage at 49.2 much earlier in its rotation but then has no effect and I cannot get it above that value (so not very useful for 16S lipefo4). its got 63V caps.. so there is room to go to 56 which is where I want to go. I'll can take some pics -- but the board is labeled and has appears to have a layout exactly like in the first post (Call that baseline) . looking closely I can see the baseline has a jumper at J12 that mine does not and the H15-J16 jumper goes in the second hold while mine goes in the 3rd (so different leg of the MOSFET). Otherwise I could find no differences and don't want to randomly start changing jumpers. Any ideas on what might be the issue?


Update: I was an idiot .. the unit was shipped in 220v input voltage mode (switch on the side). After fixing that I can reach higher voltage. With a fixed 10K resister I can now get it up to 60V.. Leaving this embarrassing post, incase someone else has the same problem.


Update2: got it all configured with R35 set to .65K Ohms (wanted to be well below the old 8Amp limit at 1K) and R40/SVR1 tuned to provide 59v. Set it upon the battery, running through my meter r so I could view/adjust the amps, and when turned on it was pulling >10A and before I could adjust r35 down, there was a very loud pop and flash and the fuse blew. Dang. Guess .65Koms is not far enough down. I replaced the fuse and even without the load the new fuse blows. Guess I fired some other components with the overdraw. I've seen threads on debugging blown converted but not worth the time, I'm just buying another charger from eBay. Anyone want a slightly-used but highly-fried clone PM me -- for the cost of shipping its yours. So another lesson for others.. set it back to normal voltage and current and adjust current down before voltage up. (My early mods on mean well 24v units were far more forgiving than this clone).

 

[Peter.bp]

DrInnovation, why embarassing???

Only way how to avoid mistakes in the job is: don't work.
We all are human beings...

 

[DrInnovation]

DrInnovation, why embarassing???

Only way how to avoid mistakes in the job is: don't work.
We all are human beings...

While I embrace learning from failure.. failure to learn is still embarrassing -- this was not the first time, or even second time I've had the problem of forgetting to check the input voltage setting.

 

[parabellum]

the unit was shipped in 220v input voltage mode (switch on the side).

Good you did bring it up again, to keep in mind. This fricking switch has chewed on my patience more the once already. :lol:

 

[Peter.bp]

DrInnovation, why embarassing???

Only way how to avoid mistakes in the job is: don't work.
We all are human beings...

While I embrace learning from failure.. failure to learn is still embarrassing -- this was not the first time, or even second time I've had the problem of forgetting to check the input voltage setting.

Welcome to the club!
I have similar problems, often generating noise, white smoke etc...
Last time (couple months ago) I got "bang" when was repairing one variable speed drive, 1000A/480V. Forgot to check gate connections in one of power modules and blew one IGBT...
It was quite loud "bang", it took whole day just to clean up the mess...

Lesson learnt: If you're interrupted during commissioning phase, restart commissioning, especially if you don't have written check list.

 

[TheBeastie]

Thought I would post this here because well this was the thread that got me searching on ebay and ended up buying this..
"400W 60V 6.7A Single Output Switching power supply"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251915172070?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Originally I was going to get a 48v one and mod it but when I saw this one saying its 60volts for practically the same price I thought why not, maybe it has higher voltage caps in it etc.. I specifically want 60v so I am hoping no mods needed.
From when I clicked "buy" really think I got it in 5 business days, maybe 6 days tops as I hadn't checked my mail box for a few days but the PS box was under other mail envelops..I don't know whats been happening lately but these ebay China purchases have been rocketing down in no time, its creeping me out!

https://goo.gl/photos/oPmzUqm8W3eXAikL9

 

[parabellum]

Cool.
It says 10% adjustment, which is over 63V caps range already.
Will you crack it open to see what components are inside? Caps and output Fets are of most interest, but all the small output stuff is nice if identified.

 

[parabellum]

Impressing. Look at those:
70V
http://www.ebay.com/itm/70V-5-7A-400W-Single-Output-Series-Switching-Power-Supply-For-LED-Strip-Light-/271835361791?hash=item3f4aa671ff:g:fRgAAOSwNSxVKM66
110V
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-3-6A-400W-Single-Output-Series-Switching-Power-Supply-For-LED-Strip-Light-/231529059456?hash=item35e8351480:gpoAAOSwbsdVKLWL

 

[TheBeastie]

Cool.
It says 10% adjustment, which is over 63V caps range already.
Will you crack it open to see what components are inside? Caps and output Fets are of most interest, but all the small output stuff is nice if identified.

OK just for you parabellum! I still look now and then at your ebike battery thread, I think you have one of the most innovative weld free 18650 packs out there.

Ok the photos are a bit foggy.. I have the lid unscrewed so if anyone has any picture requests of the unit I am happy to take them.
Answer is yes.. 100v caps.. So there is good grounds to claim this was built for the job..
I am reluctant to remove the heatsinks from the fets as I want this to be in original condition as much as possible before I start using it to make sure it works and it wasn't my fault if it wasn't..
Won't be using the ps for a while yet as its for my electric quad bike project which I have been putting off forever due to external circumstances but I have promised my self to get on it..

More pics here.. https://goo.gl/photos/oPmzUqm8W3eXAikL9
Add/edit, I took some photos at the end with my iPad which are much sharper then what my HTC phone was giving..

 

[parabellum]

OK just for you parabellum! I still look now and then at your ebike battery thread, I think you have one of the most innovative weld free 18650 packs out there.

No idea what you are writing about, oh yea the most low tech pack intent ever, which never ended in desired application. Wait for it, I have everything ready for another, better intent, only cells missing (as ever).
Thanks for inside out, you are the man, I probably will try this or 70V version to bring up to 98V, or maybe 110V to bring down to 98V, but for sure another 2 x 48V for series quick charge. My poor piggy.

 

[DVDRW]

Got S-400-48 from ebay, 24$. Half of the components seems missing. No shunt. 8A fuse. So no current limiter at all?
50V caps
Top: http://i.imgur.com/mcQRn70.jpg
Bottom: http://i.imgur.com/zItyfTJ.jpg

 

[fechter]

Got S-400-48 from ebay, 24$. Half of the components seems missing. No shunt. 8A fuse. So no current limiter at all?
50V caps

Yep, looks like no shunt. The limiting is only for overload protection and is on the primary side. Once you reach the limit, it goes into hiccup mode.
Seems like no two are alike with these supplies.

The 48v 400W clone supply I got last time had the shunt and was a piece of cake to make variable. It was a model AD488.3

 

[irq]

Grabbed one of those

http://www.ebay.de/itm/281859065674?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

which has been a great deal, without any problems it can be modded up to 80-85v output. without modding the current output it starts with 17amps! but doesnt make any strange noise or increases heat noticeable.

i am using this since a few months now, replaced the 63v caps to 100v / 105° caps, modified the current limiting circuit to stay at about 10-12 Amp output at 62v. Output Voltage Range on my Setup is variable from 48v to 72v.

No Noise, No Jitter, no nothing. Just works, and regulates the output Voltage down to zero when the Pack is full.

Only the Stock Fan, is a pita. Replace it. Srsly.

 

[markz]

Thought I would post this here because well this was the thread that got me searching on ebay and ended up buying this..
"400W 60V 6.7A Single Output Switching power supply"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251915172070?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Originally I was going to get a 48v one and mod it but when I saw this one saying its 60volts for practically the same price I thought why not, maybe it has higher voltage caps in it etc.. I specifically want 60v so I am hoping no mods needed.
From when I clicked "buy" really think I got it in 5 business days, maybe 6 days tops as I hadn't checked my mail box for a few days but the PS box was under other mail envelops..I don't know whats been happening lately but these ebay China purchases have been rocketing down in no time, its creeping me out!

https://goo.gl/photos/oPmzUqm8W3eXAikL9

I was debating whether this ebay seller has the Meanwell clone, it clearly states SMUN but I still wondered because my research before hand, had someone state there needed to be a case indentation for it to be 99% clone. As long as "Arlen&Alice" / Arlen68 ebay seller is CC/CV just like my HRP Meanwell originals then I will give this a go. At $20 you cant go wrong.

 

[MarbleMonster]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have a few questions to the people that have experience with this specific SMPS.

I have a 10s li-ion pack (~14aH) that I'm looking to charge to 41v to extend its life. The pack has got a BMS on it.

Am I right in thinking I can buy this bulk charger and once configured / modded to the appropriate settings (4a@41v) apply the DC output directly to the BMS? Alternatively, do I need an additional CC/CV circuit on the output of this bulk charger to avoid damage to the batteries (which are about 2 years/200 cycles old)?

How is the V/A meter connected electronically? Is the power supply for the meter taken from the same position in the AD488.3 as the Meanwell 350w?

Lastly, what is the best load to use to test the current limit of the PSU? As standard it's say 8.3, I want to limit to about 4a. I can use the empirical values that seem to be floating around, but how do I ensure that the value is correct and that the output won't fly to 8a when I connect my pack or if there is a short etc?

Again, sorry to resurrect an old thread and thanks for all of the great information.

 

[fechter]

Yes, you connect the supply to the charge port on the BMS.

The volt/amp meters I've used go in line between the supply and the pack. Simple connection, input and output labeled on the meter. If you want to use a DVM just to set it up, then you put it on volts and measure across the supply output and dial in the desired voltage. Amps is a little trickier as the meter needs to go in series between the supply and the pack and has to have an appropriate current rating. Also be sure to put the probes back into the volt sockets before measuring any voltages.

The current limiting feature is pretty stable. Once you dial in a setting, say 4A, it will never go above that by more than a few percent regardless of how discharged the pack is.

A good test load is stupidly expensive. Most guys find something cheaper, like a bunch of halogen light bulbs or old heating elements from a toaster, hair dryer, water heater, etc. The trick is to get the right resistance to load the supply enough to get it into limiting but not so much that the voltage drops below about 1/2 the no load voltage.

You can just use the pack if it's discharged. Start by dialing the current pot to the low side, then slowly bring it up until you reach the desired limit. Once the pack gets up to the CV voltage, the current will start to drop below the limit and limiting is no longer active.

 

[MarbleMonster]

Brilliant, thanks for clearing up that I don't need an additional CC/CV circuit.

The VA meters I've been looking at need a 4v-30v supply for the meter, or alternatively use batteries. Are you using a battery powered version? If not, do you have a link or a name for a VA meter that runs purely from the measured connections?

Quite conveniently I have an old toaster, I'll grab some heating elements from that for initial load testing, great idea! I'm just conscious that my battery is much more expensive than this power supply, don't want to kill the battery by not setting a correct current limit.

Thanks for all of your hard work on this project Fechter, saving and charging battery packs everywhere!

 

[fechter]

There are tons of meters on eBay that run off the monitored voltage up to 80v or 100v. Search "dc volt watt meter"
Here is an example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-20A-100V-LCD-Digital-Volt-Voltage-Watt-Current-Power-Meter-Ammeter-Voltmeter/272765981776?hash=item3f821e9450

Just avoid the ones made for AC and look at the voltage range.

I test using my pack, but just keep the test short and you won't have any issues. It takes time for things to heat up.

 

[DrkAngel]

Old standard operates from 4V - 60V.
Also monitors Ah, kWh, and more to monitor battery capacity etc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Watt+Meter+DC+60V+100A&_sop=15

 

[MarbleMonster]

Awesome! Thank you very much.

 

[wiredsim]

Is there a good way to tell if a SMPS has CC/CV capabilities built in? I’m looking at this unit for example (to charge a 12S LTO pack):

https://m.ebay.com/itm/360W-10A-AC110V-240V-to-DC36V-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-f-LED-Strip/272515375503

 

[flippy]

Is there a good way to tell if a SMPS has CC/CV capabilities built in? I’m looking at this unit for example (to charge a 12S LTO pack):

https://m.ebay.com/itm/360W-10A-AC110V-240V-to-DC36V-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-f-LED-Strip/272515375503

You need to preform the mods mentioned in this topic. That goes for all these power supplies.
If you dont it will go into OCP and/or blow up.

 

[fechter]

Is there a good way to tell if a SMPS has CC/CV capabilities built in? I’m looking at this unit for example (to charge a 12S LTO pack):

https://m.ebay.com/itm/360W-10A-AC110V-240V-to-DC36V-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-f-LED-Strip/272515375503

They didn't give much information in the ad. There seems to be a wide variety of variations on these things, so unless you have the exact model as one that has already been reverse engineered and modded, there is a good chance the board layout will be different.

All these supplies do CV but the output range of adjustment varies. Most, but not all, do CC. Most do CC at a level that is too high for continuous operation and the CC limit needs to be reduced.

 

[mighty82]

Is there an easy way of terminating the charge when it's finished with the CC phase or at a specific voltage. That's the only problem I have with charging my Lifepo4 pack. During CV phase one or more cells will start overcharging if i'm not babysitting it.