Sorensen DCS Series - Modification and Repair Thread

[methods]

So as I get dressed and walk out the door...

We make the following assertion:

1) IF the above circuit analysis turns out to be true

2) AND 240VAC is applied while the P1 Jumper is applied

3) THEN 680V would hypothetically be developed across the cap Stack

4) SO - the caps would be trashed (if not blown apart) and the downstream Mosfets (if not rated) could go shorted. In Addition, the low power transformer tasked with creating 8V would create 16V overheating regulators.

My guess is that the Mosfets are rated well enough (easy to look up - and they come with margin)
My guess is that the caps are heavy duty but ... have failure modes... that may not result in a visible POP
My guess is that the 10K resistor divider would heavily overheat (evidence of that)
My guess is that smoke would appear, near instantly, from the low voltage section
My guess is that some small trace components may emit some smoke on the side of the high power section
My guess is that if it were just a few seconds... that the supply would still work... but that some parts may have a 20% tolerance now

SO
Replacing the main caps may get us back to our 1st order repair

Second order would be to have a look around at other possible damage...

Where
We want to reason about things... based on measurable evidence... using methods and ways and tests which can be repeated... so as to avoid fighting about

Who Started the war
Who has the one and only one real god
Who has right to this land and why...

So long as we continue with those sorts of disputes... the national debt will continue to climb - as will civilian casualties.

So -
If you are a holly warrior... on ANY side...
Consider for a moment how things will converge

Use a PID loop

Consider the cost of having shattered Post Traumatic Stress warriors being feed back into the feedback loop.
Consider business assholes who will manipulate you and stoke the fires for their personal profit
Consider instead of dealing with politicians... dealing with engineers... who are bound by logic and reason

...

ENGINEER FOR PRESIDENT

frock DONALD DUCK

No more lawyers
No more business men
No more military men
They have all had their chance

No more frocking around...

Its time to have an Engineer as president
Not a software engineer
Not a mechanical engineer

An Electrical Engineer
Or someone like Elon Musk (who admittedly is a fierce businessman... obiously... but he is bound by logic and reason thru hardware)

...

Do that...
And I predict
That we will see a turn for the better.

-methods

 

[methods]

Super score!

About to go on the clock... But on the way in I was directed to a carboy full of pcb boards. Managed to grab 8 like this for us. Each has a pair of 400V 470uF caps on them.

(Along with some other VERY nice goodies... )

8 of these caps will be a perfect replacement - not considering ESR - which likely will be better (guessing)



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[methods]

Sigh... I want to get home and rig that shit up so bad... :x
My current work is almost done...

Just have to do some gnarly JSON API interfacing into something complying with Restful (or something like that - not familiar YET)

... Fishing for contracts to line up ... Tired of "extended vacations" based on my PPP (Puss Poor Planning)

Frocking Contracting

I cant believe I WANTED to be this guy (lol)

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[methods]

Who is your daddy and what does he do?


View attachment 1

[youtube]imqapaYAPbY[/youtube]

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[methods]

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[youtube]vVl-XcBRMHk[/youtube]
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View attachment 4
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..
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View attachment 2

 

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View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1


Your daddy fixes rad 600V Power Supplies on the UltraCheap by dumper diving

now...

Back to what I was doing :wink:

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[methods]

The only problem with the 60V 18A is that it needs a fan.

I will donate the fan from my personal 60V 18A... and get the thing back in service ASAP.

K?
Am I square with the world yet?

Remember...
I could have easily returned both of those to the Ebay Sellers...
30 day return policy on both
Been a whiner about it

but I didnt

...

Learning never ends and it happens one small bit at a time.
I now know more than I did before
I have been doing this for 30 years....

I know a lot now
About a lot of stuff 8)


So lay off with the clowning on guys who were smart enough and lucky enough and hard working enough to go to school...
.... or I will hook this thing up to your nuts.

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT

Because I earned my Street Degree in hard knocks AND my Masters Degree.

Sheesh

Everybody is a critic....

I put my frocking work in
Always have
Always do

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[methods]

Now... Its precisely 7:02AM on Saturday.

Some of us are awake

Some of us are asleep

This is the time slot I use to go answer the threads I dont want to answer, dont care about, etc.
Maybe there is a squabble brewing
Maybe something makes my head hurt
Maybe something needs to get done - but not right away
Maybe its an "on-hold" thing... like "gotta save up the dough"

So...

Here I go to make the rounds.
I just click thru whatever reminders I find in my email account.
I rarely browse the torrent of incoming data, and more surf whatever swell or swells I happen to end up on.

... I like doing it that way

-methods

 

[methods]

So to replace the caps properly:

Look for something
1800uF to 2400uF
Close to 44mm wide but not wider
Close to 100-140mm long but not longer or shorter
200V - 250V, not higher or lower

Rational:
You can find plenty of 1800uF 200V caps for $5 (in a tiny package)
They aint going to work
We dont have a ripple spec - so we are using "common sense spec"
OEM specified a monster
We replace it with a monster... maybe a little smaller... assuming modern caps are made with a better process

So - $20 to $25 a piece
You need a pair

Mouser: 3 in stock, a page to choose from
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Screw-Terminal/_/N-75hqz?P=1z0wqrqZ1z0wmhbZ1z0wqqnZ1z0wlidZ1z0wqutZ1z0j7ksZ1yzxdq3Z1z0j88rZ1yzxdptZ1yx4as7Z1yzs9nvZ1z0x2ixZ1yzxikbZ1yzxdzdZ1yzxdzhZ1yzuzy5

Digikey: 1 in stock, a page to choose from
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?k=&pkeyword=&pv1500=2555&pv1500=501&pv1500=487&pv1500=483&pv1500=525&pv1500=575&pv1500=1869&pv1500=1572&pv1500=554&pv1500=1889&FV=mu1800%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu1900%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2000%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2100%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2200%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2250%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2300%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu2400%C2%B5F%7C2049%2Cmu200V%7C2079%2Cmu210V%7C2079%2Cmu220V%7C2079%2Cmu250V%7C2079%2Cffe0003a%2Cb836aa%2Cb836ad%2Cb836d0%2Cb836e1%2Cb83c51%2Cb89e1b%2Cb89ed3&quantity=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25



Go ahead and spend $30 labor shopping those prices around to save $10
OR - just frocking order a couple.

YES SIR
DOING SO NOW SIR

Dont order anything that is not in stock
Dont ship them triple over-night
Dont buy the cheapest on the list if it is $2 less... buy the best one on the list... if it is a matter of $4
Dont smoke crack
For that matter... Dont smoke meth



Do invest $50 on top of a $600 investment to save!

Tho now... there are a ton of good deals
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Sorensen+DCS600&_sacat=0

But new...
https://store.programmablepower.com/products/dcs-series-1000w-dc-supply

So -
I get 3 power supplies for the price of 1 power supply (plus) an education

When they break... GOOD
More lessons
More parts for the bin
More experience

-methods

 

[fechter]

Multiple smaller caps have several advantages over a single larger one. More surface area for heat dissipation and generally lower ESR.

I'd suggest making sure the terminals can't contact the upper cover. Even if there is a good gap, you might want to use fish paper or FRP just above them in case the main board flexes.

 

[methods]

Thanks Fecther

I ordered fit/form replacements from Mouser... those 400V caps simply wont fit.
The new caps are slightly smaller but I think they have a similar ripple rating (about 4A... which makes sense)

1KW/350V = ~3A (no idea if that is a calculation that makes sense... just back calculating current needs for power output)

I ended up choosing based (not on price) but on inventory found on both Mouser and Digikey
(To support COTS and the idea that if we all spec the same parts... we can drive the cost down)

They will be here in a few days.

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[methods]

So this week I am picking apart common mode chokes.
(Videos while I drive)

[youtube]6nDlAlXAYc4[/youtube]

Step 1)
Inductive.... And canceling inductance.

If inductive, resists change
If not inductive, does not resist change

... So we must first convince ourselves that back-winding an inductor "neutralizes" it. ...

Need frequency generator
Need scope
Need random toroid parts
Need enamel wire in 2 colors

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[methods]

Caps landed today

Tonight is un-fruck my testing setup, refruck with form and fit caps, test, and off to the next supply.

60V better be just the fan...

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[youtube]G_MMIv5ia5g[/youtube]

Particularly good one. . . .

Remember those TDK Lambda modulars we were playing with? I was getting a 1kw continuous (out of just a few pounds) with a modified computer fan (shorted temp probe, overvolted 100%)

I agree that TDK Lambda is the shizzle.

Meanwell are great, these are next level (and you pay for it)
... Remember the flat-flex cable that attached the modules to the core? Purely DC Isolated for certain...

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[methods]

https://us.tdk-lambda.com/lp/products/product_index.htm#acdc

And now to search EBay for medical pull-down equipment
(Pulled from service after XX hours for high reliability - like those 50V 50A server supplies that to for $20 and have $200 in good parts inside )

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[methods]

https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m4084.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xtdk+lambda+vega.TRS0&_nkw=tdk+lambda+vega+650

24V 15A modules run at 30V cont.
12V 10A + 12V 6A run parallel at 20V 16A
2 of each module get you 100V 15A all day
You need to build in the fan
It needs to absolutely scream... Or the thermal protection kicks in
Output is totally DC isolated - stack in any way
Safety is thru an opto couple bridge... Never bypassed it... Its good safety, use it

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[methods]

FAN ordered off of digikey based on the PN of the replacement fan I found in the 600V unit.

Pricey @ $30 + $10 shipping + Tax...
But a small price to pay for 60V 18A 1KW ...

Remember - I could have dinged BOTH of the ebay suppliers
My suggestion to you is to troubleshoot fast
ID the problem (if any)
Propose a compromise with seller
Get refund for parts replaced ($60 on bad caps, $40 on a bad fan)
You will likely just see the funds pop up in your PayPal.

Note: After using ebay for a decade or two I have had only 1 dispute and it was over DOA product. Be careful with disputes... it hurts you as much as the seller over a long enough time line. Try to carefully vet your supplier and work out agreeable solutions wherever possible. Your supplier does not want bad feedback, you dont want to look like a complainer or scammer, etc.

Remember - A lot of people scam in a way similar to what is described. They get flagged quickly
Then... in the future when it matters... PayPal and Ebay do not support them to the degree they could be supported.

I have hundreds of transactions (thousands on PayPal) with a fraction of a fraction of a percent resulting in dissatisfaction.

-methods

 

[methods]

And back to chokes, inductance, toroids, common mode filtering, etc



Parasitics
Inductance
Capacitance
Costs associated with converging on "ideal parts"
Impacts of Value Engineering (buying cheaper parts) on design of circuits that are non DC

...

I have been thinking lately how important it is to have buyers who understand the 2nd and 3rd order implications of changes to a BOM. Two resistors may seem EXACTLY alike. Same specs on Digikey.

One costs a buck
One costs a cent
They are NOT interchangable

Hence why the ECO and associated sign-off infrastructures are in place!
Yea... usually we are just waiting for some manager to approve some money we want to spend... but much more important... is getting sign-off on engineering, procurement, procedural, etc changes.

....
......
understand the 2nd and 3rd order implications
Same goes for HR, Accounting, Facilities... the devil is in the details of the work being done - relative to the goals set out.

-methods

 

[methods]

Source: https://www.google.com/search?q=common+noise+filtering&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS789US789&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjWpPXyp9HcAhUNE3wKHdkoBPcQ_AUICigB&biw=1674&bih=910#imgrc=j29gsnvnGICNuM:


I think I am regaining some ground on the basic 60hz AC stuff.
20 years of "not using it" really let the fundamentals decay in my mind.
I have the ability to "perfectly recollect" - but its weird... more situational.

I can tell you odd details - like the inflections in a professors voice on a particular day 20 years ago. Where I was sitting in the class, the color of the pens being used... but I cant easily recall particulars - like specific homework assignments.

Unless... I trigger those memories.

It takes a while. The more pointers the better...
But with enough stoking - I can pull up fundamentals and put them back into the "working knowledge" bucket.

...

So far this exercise has left me feeling good about:
1) Transformers (tho... I was pretty fresh on that due to some research I did on the power path from the wires to my house)
1.1) Step down, configurable

2) Common Mode Rejection & standard noise
2.1) Inductive and capacitive roles

3) Voltage Doubling
3.1) Revisiting the tricks for "voltage stacking" was fun... who does not want to create 350VDC with 4 components you can find in the trash?!?!?!?!

Where... what I am trying to ready myself for... is digging into:

A) UL and other standards
B) New Standards

AC Generation, DC Generation, Grid tie, high power transfer between non stationary power sources, metering, safety minimums, standards, non-standards, methods and ways for swapping DC and AC

It turns out that there is basically no reasonable way to swap DC for DC. . . It can be done but it is impracticable.

Eventually - all signals get chopped up and bucked or boosted
Common efficiency for this is in the 90's percentile range
Common reference is what is going to change... I suspect....

Currently our common point of reference is the AC Mains
I predict that our common point of reference will be DC Mobile and (more so) DC Stationary

-

That being the case
Questions arise:

* Converter on the battery, a mobile converter, or converter on the sink?
* Converter split between the sink and source?
* Converter likely will be much cheaper if it can be big and heavy - small and light can get REALLY expensive - but not always

... SO I relate it to ebike riding.... (Which scales)

- My home charger is a beast, variable lab supply. Large, heavy, but can handle many interfaces

- My mobile charger is also a beast - about half the price for the same power - for the most part "fixed voltage" - but very light, very small (variable means big, fixed means small - sometimes Fixed can be relay-configured - but it is always limited)

- I never want to slow-charge on the road. I only fast charge on the road. For my bike that means 1KW, or double my capacity. If my car were 50KW, then I would want to fast charge at 100KW. .... Yea... Everybody thinks we are going to trickle charge into nirvana - I dont buy it - just like I dont buy that 100mA balance currents are enough to manage a full size EV pack (across 2 decades). I am certain that DC Fast Charge will become the preferred method, especially as chemistry adapt to it and do not penalize.

- I can only see trickle charging taking off if it is wireless!

I
Just
Dont
Like
Plugging
Anything
into
My Car

... I just ... forget to do it... just... never have done it.

Now...
Show me a wireless charge parking spot... and we may be in business

I dont think the solution is under the car. I have reviewed manufacturers of these devices... it costs too much in infrastructure. The coil loops are really not that big. I would put them under the front of the car - between the front wheels - then have parking spots that feature charge-poles with a flat that extends out... on top of the concrete. No idea what to do with the existing wheel stops.

Better yet - forward facing.... but thats more difficult

It is entirely possible to have cars outfitted with a "bump hole" in the front
Just a centered, self aligning, high power, physical connection.
On the car side it would be quite cheap (Cheaper than an inductive setup for CERTAIN... as that requires quite a bit of electronics)

On the charger side you may need some smarts -

They key is that you would want the charger side to be limited.
It does not have to go 5' side to side...
If someone parks crooked... THEY DONT GET TO CHARGE... or they have to hand-attach the charger

If someone parks well
And their car is compliant (small, low, centered, with a compatible connector)
well... they get the convenience of not having to yank on the J1772 and drag it to the charge flap

...

We worked on this sort of stuff while at Google
It boils down to there being no optimal solution

Another solution is "slapper plates"

Actuated plates that come down from the car to hit two pads which are interlocked***

Cantilevered charge poles are also an option, for low compact cars.

... I am a fan of "bump stops".... where you literally drive forward until you "bump" the charger.
But - I am an outlier

... For the last 180 days I have "bumped" my car.
When I park behind the truck, I bump it
When I back the truck in, I bump the car
When I pull up to walls, I kiss them

It takes some practice but you can learn to "touch stuff" with your car without dislocating your bumper
Takes touch

Autonomous drive does this VERY WELL.... and you should think about that*

...

If your car is parking itself
It is highly likely that it can "land" on the alignment pin and hook to a charger

Exposed voltage is not a concern at all

breaking stuff IS a concern...

sigh... Off to work

-methods

 

[methods]

Jump Bike fail....

Cant rent two with one accout :?

...

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[methods]

.
.
Got a second Jump Bike rolling

Headlights are still absolute SHIT
Other than that... great bikes

The Left hand brake catches my coat sleeve and holds on the front brake

The App is confusing -
1) I find a bike
2) I reserve
3) I walk up to it
4) It asks me for a 4 digit code
(Confusing part)
5) App shows me a 4 digit code (Bike code)... but what it wants is my personal 4 digit code... grrr... confusing for new users
6) Button up in right corner - says CODE - lol... poke that
When you do it that way - its super fast and easy

Entering phone number - bah
Entering full account number - bah
Next up I want proximity.
...

oh yea -

Ran into a couple while we were on the bikes
Couple had bet going as to whether electric
Lady said NO - because people were pedaling
Guy said YES - for reasons unknown
... so of course we tried to sell them on it...

Want to know what the barrier to entry was?
???

*** They did not want to install the App ***

so...
There you go.
.
.
View attachment 4
.
.
Ended up taking the supplies in to work (off the clock) to finish off the repairs. Our lab is the best I have worked in - as far as being outfitted with what you need. Metcal Irons, stock shelves full of this and that, machine shop, tons of the stuff you need to build stuff

Was a bit worried when my best guy pointed out that I picked up 85C caps instead of 105C
Original rated was 85C - and that to me just really means lifespan

I was worried also when the new caps came in significantly smaller than the old caps.
Either they are rated for less ripple.... or they are newer technology
SO...

Popped open the 18E supply - which is a generation later.
Here is what they moved UP to from what was there before:
(1.2KW instead of 1KW as well)
.
.

I have a bunch of pics detailing the new design - with the improvements you would expect.
* Caps swapped out to parallel array
* Mosfets swapped out to a more modern package
* Strangely - same crappy low voltage section, and the Rectum Frier is mounted upside down with a heat sink
* Still all thru-hole parts...
* Bumper under the fan to stop the lever arm from vibrating
* Paper replaced with plastic... simple stuff... but VERY VALUABLE LESSON

1) Commercial product good enough to sell to the government
2) Revision of exact same comercial product, good enough to sell to the government
3) What changed?
4) Why?
5) Over what time period?

...

Thats a priceless set of lessons Ma Fuckuz

...

Then take those lessons and look at how the next version went.
A clear progression of lessons becomes apparent ***

...

So anyway - to the cap values
1) Capacitance
2) Ripple Current
3) Temperature
.
.
View attachment 2
.
.
We have three brand name caps in parallel
Not top of the line (in that brand name) - value
200V rated
85C rated

1000uF, totaling 3000uF, where as before it was 1800uf, where it was 1KW and now is 1.2kw... so... using logic... 1.2*1.8mF=2.16mF

er... I am guessing they went up in capacitance because:

1) They could
2) Ripple handling
3) Trade-off for other factors

... Think about stuff like that ...

High ESR means high heat (I^2*R) means shorter life

Low ESR means high cost and sometimes larger package (as they just downrate)

Ripple current is the most important rating which is not rated



...
Overall a lot of the circuit is nearly identical
Maybe different ferrite on the input common mode filters (availability)
Maybe different caps and mosfets
Maybe some different heat sinks and insulators
... But mostly the same

...

We tested the 600V supply across loads
at low voltage low load it was squealing a bit near the rear. Sounded like it was coming from the transformer to me... but more likely the output caps? Who knows.

At high voltages and high loads it is awesome
Someone needs to put a scope on it at low loads and low votages ***

...

The 60V Supply went together fine
(Both were delivered - buttoned up - tested - with cabling - ready to put into service)

...
1) Replaced Fan
2) Cleaned white goo off front - Alcohol and friction
3) Knobs were locked up - rolled them for 5 minutes and they re-greased
4) Found replacement fasteners and got them all in (except one which was drilled out)
5) Did minimal testing - only had a 2ohm load. It works

...

Now my personal supply (and ebike charger) is a fan short.
That was ordered of Digikey - $30 + $10 shipping
Until then we are going to steal the meanwell off of the chiller, configure that for 50V, and charge at 1.5KW

...

Lab Supply will be retired to lab work... as having a kid around (and a wife) ... while charging anything from 18650's in 1S to Lipo in 12S... is becoming alarming

-methods

 

[methods]

P.S. If you make your suicide cable "right" - there are no exposed voltages**

Right Way:

1) Only grab the Line, not neutral


Wrong Way:

1) Grab line and neutral on one
2) Grab line and neutral on the other

...

If you go about it the wrong way
Once you plug in the first plug
The second plug will expose the common neutral
(Which - at many houses - can be swapped!)
(Which - with an appliance on the 240V end... lights up the prong pair)

... Even doing it the "right way"....

Once you have one end plugged in
If you attach an appliance
The potential will come down the line, thru the appliance, and seek return path thru the remaining line prong

Yes - neutrals will be open... which means LESS chance of getting bit...

But if you dont want to be bit

1) Never plug in the appliance until after BOTH ends of the plug are inserted into the wall

...

If you stick to that -
Its not dangerous (er... not AS dangerous or THAT dangerous... but... in perspective... we are playing operator on 600V open circuit boards so)

Consider who you get your advice from *

...

Anyway

Dont wire in your neutral when building a suicide plug
Only things like Stoves need it anyway... for the clock
Most 240V items we want to power - off of standard NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 plugs - just need LINE1 and LINE2
(and of course GROUND)

... ALWAYS wire ground when working with 240V ...

I blow it off for 120V all the time
(Because I have been bit by it many times)

240V is a GNARLY electrocution - so dont frock around.
Ground your shit.

You WILL understand why the first time your LINE TOUCHES YOUR CASE
Then your HANDS TOUCH YOUR CASE
YOU WILL BE

Six kinds of sorry

-methods

 

[methods]

Correction:

Apparently Google things a Suicide Cable is a stretch of line with male prongs on both ends - such that you can power one leg of a house from the other, or power one house from another.

Fair enough

The cable I speak of is a little different
It is intended to grab one leg of your mains
And grab the other leg of your mains
To make 240V from a pair of 120V plugs

...

ok

...

I have been thinking about making a cable like this with a pair of simple relays inside.
Have the cable interlocked so as that both ends need to be plugged in
I would do it as follows

NEMA 5-15 Plug #1
Grab Line, Neutral, GND
Run Line and Neutral into a 120V coil relay, rated for 240V 20A hot switching

SPST - pass thru only the LINE
Ground shoots straight thru
Neutral controls only the relay

Plug #2 - repeat the above

At the other end... say your NEMA 6-15...
Just gets the shared and fixed GND
LINE 1 and LINE 2

SO... works like this:

Plug in one side... it closes its relay... but does not expose at the other end due to relay on other end
Plug in second side... now both relays closed... 6-15 is now hot on both ends (but female - so OK)

Plug in appliance before OR after (why this one is cool, and why it must be rated for hot switching)

If either 5-15 is unplugged... it just opens the circuit

...

In the event that you accidentally hit the "same leg" with both 5-15's... no effect really
You end up putting the same potential on both legs of a 240V appliance
No current flows
Nothing happens

...

Yes you can upsize to something like a 14-30 (or even a 14-50) but you must be REAL CAREFUL.
You obviously cant draw more than the 20A (or 15A) rated loads
Mind your wire gauge

...

The trivial case is pluging in something heavy - like a drier or welder
It will just pop the breaker - GREAT

What you are REALLY worried about is something that just draws a TOUCH more than you are rated for
Say... 22A on a 15A circuit
or... 25A on a 20A circuit

This is where it seems fine for 5 minutes... or on a cool day...
but

tick
tick tick

You have a timebomb on your hands. Wires can melt, relays can melt, house wiring can overheat, plug sockets can melt, prongs can melt out...

So choose your weak links ***

Consider putting a breaker into your Y cable

Build everything with the heaviest gauge you can***!!!

NEVER< EVER <EVER
Use light gauge wire
As a "fusing mechanism"

That is just frocking retarded

Your wire is your heat sink
Your contacts are your heat creaters

More heat will come from the 5-15 interface than will come from any stretch of wire
Your wires job is to sink that heat away from the interface!!!!!!!

So - go 12AWG from a heavy duty extension cord
Ideally rated for a very high temp - like 90C or more

*(Yes... houses use 14AWG... because they rate the temperature of the romex higher... and just let it run hot)

Dont do it like that.
Its chump-ass

Pay the extra $5
Run 10AWG if you can

Run weak links

Never hard wire anything together (unless you are pro at starting fires... like I am)

-methods

 

[methods]

NEW OLD STOCK

So... along the lines of knowing what something is worth... you may recall that these supplies use "Bisca-tron" fans.

(Thats a COMAIR ROTRON BISCUIT... aka Biscatron, the model BT2A1)

It is pictured above (or I will get a picture up)
Reads BISCUIT on the top in white with rotation arrows
Reads a date code on the bottom - mine says: MAY 24, 97

In Yellow are the specs - 180mA @ 60hz 120VAC

You can find one here for a whopping $120.

(Thats One Hundred Nineteen dollars and Ninety Nine cents....)

For a 30 year old fan that might not even be new!
(as in new-old stock...)
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.

.
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so.... lol... Check around before you buy.
Our fan was $30 and I am certain you could get something for $15

The key to getting over the "exact replacement anxiety" is understanding what the part did exactly...
How it did it
Why that part was selected
What the implications are of changing (so the risk)

As we can not always ride the wave of improvement and swap up for cheaper.
(Like our mosfet swaps on the controllers... boy wasn't that nice?)

Sometimes we have to swap down... and make up for it in other ways*
(Following the air-flow of this setup - with respect to the paper dividers - shows that it would be quite easy to set up a couple of helper fans... I may have to do that today to charge ebikes. Easy enough)

P.S. I pronounce it "JANK"... technically it is "JENK"... matters not.
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I learned the phrase from a character named Viet - maybe Viet and Paul. Important phrase when you are working a garage startup... my first desk there was the bed of a golf cart

-methods