MeanWell Mods - S-150-48 +Mega-Mod

[DrkAngel]

MeanWell Mods
MeanWell Mods - S-150-5
MeanWell Mods - S-150-12
MeanWell Mods - S-150-24
MeanWell Mods - S-150-48
MeanWell Mods - S-240-48
MeanWell Mods - S-350-48

See- ES Wiki MeanWell Mods for more

MeanWell S-150-48

Specs:
*Mean Well S-150-48
*150w max continuous output
*48V - adjustable from 43V - 53V
* (40.14 - 55.42 measured)
*(V - V As tested on 1 sample)
*3.2A max continuous output@48V -
*48V x 3.2A = 153.6W
*No fan - Open grid shell - convection cooling
Factory Specs

Problem:
*Rated at 3.2A, but will surge-sustain much higher, burning components

Solution:
*Restrict the amp output -
*The "R33" resister is the key to regulating amperage.

S-150-xx component locations

*For testing purposes, I soldered 2 wires of a 2s balance plug to the ends of the R33 resister.
*Then plugged a multi-turn 2K Pot (potentiometer) into the balance connector.
*Then I lowered the voltage to minimum and applied "load".
*Removing and measuring the pot's ohms at each 1/2 amp mark.
*(Pot must be removed to measure! "In circuit" it is laid parallel with 2 other resisters.)

Restricting Current (Amps):
*4.2A = OEM (386ohm)
*A = 10K
*A = 8.1K
*A = 4.6K
*A = 3.3K
*A = 2K
*A = 1.65K
*A = 1.3K
*A = 1K
*A = .81K
*A = .63K

Wider Amp adjustment:

*Disconnect, or remove R33 & R38.
*Replace with adjustable "pot"


*Amps ........ Ohms
*1A ... from ... 92ohms
*2A ... from ... 185ohms
*3A ... from ... 277ohms
*4A ... from ... 370ohms
*4.2A ... from ... 386ohms
*5A ... from ... 460ohms
*5.4A ... from ... 500ohms

Widening the voltage range:
*By changing the value of the Voltage pot, I was able to lower the output range substantially.

*1K = 43 - 53V (oem)
*2K = 31.1 - 53V

Adjusting voltage below 29.2V resulted in a "fault" (required power off - power on to reset)

*As I will demonstrate later, there can be great advantages to lower voltages.


Note! The higher value pots (100K etc) only allow a very "coarse" adjustment at the high voltage end. Harder to fine adjust.

Lowering Voltage
*Lowering voltage could take advantage of higher amperage.
*Without removing components, amperage is regulated below ~4.2Amps.
*R33, combined with it's neighbor R38, have a measured resistance of ~865ohms.

*Removing both and replacing with a 2K pot allowed me to produce a


Detail View
2004 - 08 - 27

Raising Voltage?
*R25 Mod
*The voltage adjustment pot (SVR1)limits voltage adjustment between 43V - 53V. It is possible to adjust voltage lower, but not higher, using a "larger" than 1K pot.
*However, the SVR1 pot is "in series" with the R25 resister.
*Altering the value of the R25 will shift the entire voltage range higher or lower
*I charted values for lower voltage values but only briefly tested higher voltages using by replacing R25 with a 2K pot. (S-24-150 data) >> I was able to push voltage to ~34V with <1.5k ohm before the power supply "faulted", 33V seemed sustainable. (Should be capable of near 60V)

R25 Mods - Lower Voltages
*Seems to fault near 24V, low voltage limit.

*Secondary voltage regulation seems to be regulated by component ZD1, (Zener Diode #1), reputably a ?V value component.

*This model has 63V caps ... a fairly strict limitation!


150 Watt!

*To be safe and effective, amperage should be adjusted as voltage is altered.
*Volts x Amps = Watts
*Watts should equal, or be slightly below, 150 watts.

*54.4V x 2.75A = 150W
*52V x 2.88A = 150W
*50V x 3A = 150W
*48V x 3.125A = 150W
*46V x 3.26A = 150W
*44V x 3.40A = 150W
*42V x 3.57A = 150W
*40V x 3.75A = 150W
*38V x 3.94A = 150W
*36V x 4.16A = 150W
*34V x 4.41A = 150W
*32V x 4.68A = 150W
*30V x 5A = 150W

*Yeah ... I'm gonna try pushing everything to the limits ... and then a little further!

(Will test to confirm)


Component Locations

In Series
----

*"In series" is when the negative of one power supply is run through the positive of another - combining their voltages.

Important!
*When run in "series" the DC "negative" must be isolated from the 110AC negative ... on all but the primary unit!. Otherwise, the DC positive from the primary unit will "short" through the AC negative on the secondary unit.

Tested model demonstrated proper electrical isolation - many S-150's haven't
Confirm no continuity between "Ground" and DC negative!

'''The negatives are usually connected through the "ground"."
*3 points of "ground" to remove.
*The external ground - terminal 3.
*The green wire, at F1 near terminal 3.
*The bottom of the circuit board, under screw hole next to fuse. (Cut circuit traces, or insulate with ... fiber, or nylon, washer and screw?)

* The case can be "properly" grounded by connecting the AC ground wire to the removed green wire directly.


MeanWell Mods
S-150-5
S-150-12
S-150-24
S-150-48
S-240-48
S-350-48

 

[DrkAngel]

S-150-48 Mega-Mod

I wanted a more universal-adjustable power supply.
So, I added a built in Volt Amp meter.
Then, added deluxe external pots for extended adjustability.

The 1K pot supplied adjustment from about 40V to 54V .... I wanted more!
Charger for 9s - 10s - 11s - 12s - 13s
Test and power for 32V-36V, 30w-50w-100w high power LEDs etc.

I could have used a 2K pot to acquire the capability, but I preferred more precision.
So, instead of removing the SVR1 pot I cut the leg closest to the power bar and ran wires to the leg and to the circuit, then added the 1K large turn pot in series.
The result?
39.52V - 54.7V adjustment from the top mounted pot, with the optional adjustment of the on board pot shifting the top mounted pot to as low as 31.1 - 39.7V.

I wanted 30V capability for a full 5A @ ~30V.

Since I intend this as a fairly universal power supply, I used a Deans T-Plug for mounting various output connections.

I decided to give a full range of current adjustment.
So I disconnected the R33 and R38 current control resisters and ran wires to an externally mounted .5K (500ohm) pot.
This gave me an amp adjustment from nearly zero to 5.4A.

The trickiest problem was supplying proper voltage to the volt amp meter.
Although it measures from 0 - 100V, it requires 4.5V-30V to power the meter itself.
Hunting around I found a diode, (D16), with 21V on one end and 0V on the other.
Attached the meter and it lit up so ... lookin' good.
Oops! Plug on amperage wires hit a coil(?) off the circuit board.
So I desoldered the connection pins and soldered wires directly to V A circuit board.

Lookin' goood! ... Put 'er together and hit the switch ....
Oops ... weird voltage readings?
Disassembled and removed power to V A meter and worked properly.
With a prayer, I disconnected the neg wire from the diode and .... miracle of miracles everything worked perfectly.
(The Amp neg ground is common and attached in a good location.)

The result?
39.2V 54.7V adjustment from the top mounted pot, with the optional adjustment of the on board pot shifting the top mounted pot to as low as 31.1-39.7V.

I wanted 30V capability for a full 5A @ 30V.

Since I intend this as a fairly universal power supply, I used a Deans T-Plug for mounting various output connections.

 

[teslanv]

Nicely done, DA.

I have an RSP-1500-48 that could use this treatment.

Currently using it to bulk charge my 12S pack, but at 35A, I worry I am stressing my LiPos.

 

[DrkAngel]

Nicely done, DA.

I have an RSP-1500-48 that could use this treatment.

Currently using it to bulk charge my 12S pack, but at 35A, I worry I am stressing my LiPos.

What is your charge voltage?
Voltage adjustment range of RSP-1500-48?

If you charge to 49.8V (4.15V),
and discharge to 44.4V (3.70V),
that is a range of 5.4V ...

OK ...
50V - charged voltage
43V low end adjustment

LVC protection makes this not feasible - Sorry! You are so lucky!!!
I could rig a MeanWell S-150-5 as a 5.6V with fully adjustable 0-30A current to be run in series with RSP-1500-48 adjusted to 44.4V.
This would give you a programmable <1A - ~30A charge rate!

MeanWell S-150-5 is likely adjustable to 6V, if you want to charge LiPo to 50.4V (4.20V) = <1A - 25A.

I will likely build a S-150-5 Mega-Mod ... will require external Volt-Amp meter, such as:



... After I build the S-150-12 Mega-Mod.


S-150-5 mods are nicely documented - MeanWell S-150-5

 

[teslanv]

Ohhh....

So I've been running 14S LiPo the last week, but charging the 12S Pack and 2S packs independently.

With an S-150-48 (Or heck, if you are going to mod it anyways, couldn't you use the S-150-12?) run in series with RSP-1500 at 5V, 1-30A, I could charge at 58V (~4.15V/cell) easily as well.

Are you going to start selling Mega-Mod S-150-xx PS's, DA?

I have a watt-meter connected to my RSp already.

 

[DrkAngel]

S-150-12 Mega-Mod might be built today.
But will current limit from only <1A to ~15Amp.

RSP-1500-48 set at 52V and MeanWell S-150-5 at 6V should provide 58V with, from <1A - to ~25A, effective current regulation.
58(4.15V) - 51.8(3.7V) = 6.2V voltage differential
Might have to push MeanWell voltage a bit higher, reducing max amps to <24A.


I have spare S-150-24's only <1A-8A regulation.
In series with generic S-350-48 creates a nice 500w CC\CV charger 54-84V.

Might have spare switch and shrouds available for any MeanWell S-150-series ...

 

[teslanv]

If I were to pick up a S-150-7.5 I would not need to change any resistor's, correct?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mean-We...750?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c43185a56

Basically just add a POT for the Current Adjust, right?

For my purposes, I could just adjust the voltage on the S-150-7.5 with the buil-in pot to suit my total voltage in series with the RSP to my pack.

Voltage range on the RSP is 44V-58V, and on the S-150-7.5 would be 6V-8.3V for a total range of 50V to 66V - Perfect for 12S to 15S charging.

 

[DrkAngel]

If I were to pick up a S-150-7.5 I would not need to change any resistor's, correct?

Voltage range on the RSP is 44V-58V, and on the S-150-7.5 would be 6V-8.3V for a total range of 50V to 66V - Perfect for 12S to 15S charging.

Great price!
Would work nicely but with 20A max regulation at 7.5V (150w ÷ 7.5V = 20A )

MeanWell S-150-7.5 - Max regulation
150w ÷ 8.3V = 18A
150w ÷ 7.5V = 20A
150w ÷ 7V = 21.5A
150w ÷ 6V = 25A
150w ÷ 5V = 30A
150w ÷ 4V = 37.5A

Measure ohms resistance of R33.
Remove R33 and R38 (paralleled resistors).
Wire to external pot.
(Pot determined by R33 measured ohms,
Below 500 ohms- replace with .5K (500R) pot,
Above 500 ohm - replace with 1K pot)
etc.

Might want to add simple volt meter on S-150-7.5 for simple adjustment, or external pot with dial and markings.
See my previous post for info I added ...

Let me know when you purchase, I might get the 2nd one.

Please note!
Full current can drag down MeanWells voltage to a cut off point and cause a fault, requiring a restart.
With the S-150-48, this was 29.2V.
So ... figures above are questionable when S-150-w paired with 1500w unit!!!

 

[kje]

MeanWell Mods
MeanWell Mods - S-150-5
MeanWell Mods - S-150-12
MeanWell Mods - S-150-24
MeanWell Mods - S-150-48
MeanWell Mods - S-240-48
MeanWell Mods - S-350-48

See- ES Wiki MeanWell Mods for more

MeanWell S-150-48

Specs:
*Mean Well S-150-48
*150w max continuous output
*48V - adjustable from 43V - 53V
* (40.14 - 55.42 measured)
*(V - V As tested on 1 sample)
*3.2A max continuous output@48V -
*48V x 3.2A = 153.6W
*No fan - Open grid shell - convection cooling
Factory Specs

Problem:
*Rated at 3.2A, but will surge-sustain much higher, burning components

Solution:
*Restrict the amp output -
*The "R33" resister is the key to regulating amperage.

S-150-xx component locations

I don't understand how you restrict amps?
Do you remove the R33 resistor and solder in a bigger resistor?

Or do you solder a potentiometer like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-WH148-Type-B1K-Ohm-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-Panel-Pot-3-Pin-LS04-/151952243043?hash=item23610f3963:g:zuUAAOSw7FRWanT0

 

[DrkAngel]

Restricting Current (Amps):
*4.2A = OEM (386ohm)
*A = 10K
*A = 8.1K
*A = 4.6K
*A = 3.3K
*A = 2K
*A = 1.65K
*A = 1.3K
*A = 1K
*A = .81K
*A = .63K

Wider Amp adjustment:

*Disconnect, or remove R33 & R38.
*Replace with adjustable "pot"


*Amps ........ Ohms
*1A ... from ... ohms
*2A ... from ... ohms
*3A ... from ... ohms
*4A ... from ... ohms
*4.2A ... from ... 386ohms
*5A ... from ... ohms
*5.4A ... from ... 500ohms

150w rated / ~54V = 2.75A

Only with the Genuine "MeanWell S-150-48", adding a lower resistance resistor to R33 & R38 will limit amps (<386ohm).
200ohm looks reasonable for ~2.75Amp(?).
220ohm looks reasonable for ~3Amp(?).
Removing R33 & R38 and replacing with a .5k (500ohm - 500B) pot will allow ~0A to 5.4A adjustment.

350w / ~54V = 6.5A
Only with the Genuine "MeanWell S-350-48", adding a lower resistance resistor to R33 will limit amps (<350ohm).

 

[kje]

I bought this 7.5A 360W 48V power supply. (As my last 3A 150W 48V fried)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311001005100?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=610293600576&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Can I Remove R33 & R38 and replace with a .5k (500ohm - 500B) pot? Will this allow ~0A to 5.4A adjustment?

 

[DrkAngel]

Only the specific models of genuine MeanWell brand power supplies are guaranteed to use those specific components for that specific function.
Some, unidentified, clones might have copied identically?

400w 48V clone is available with mods documented.
See - Meanwell clone- AD488.3-400W power supply mods

 

[kje]

Can I solder inn this 5w 22ohm resistor in series between my 7.5A 360W 48V power supply and the battery pack? Will it reduce the amps while charging?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400552119082?redirect=mobile

Or this 10k trim pot?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251877265728?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[DrkAngel]

S-150-48 Mega-Mod

I wanted a more universal-adjustable power supply.
So, I added a built in Volt Amp meter.
Then, added deluxe external pots for extended adjustability.

The 1K pot supplied adjustment from about 40V to 54V .... I wanted more!
Charger for 9s - 10s - 11s - 12s - 13s
Test and power for 32V-36V, 30w-50w-100w high power LEDs etc.

I could have used a 2K pot to acquire the capability, but I preferred more precision.
So, instead of removing the SVR1 pot I cut the leg closest to the power bar and ran wires to the leg and to the circuit, then added the 1K large turn pot in series.
The result?
39.52V - 54.7V adjustment from the top mounted pot, with the optional adjustment of the on board pot shifting the top mounted pot to as low as 31.1 - 39.7V.

I wanted 30V capability for a full 5A @ ~30V.

Since I intend this as a fairly universal power supply, I used a Deans T-Plug for mounting various output connections.

I decided to give a full range of current adjustment.
So I disconnected the R33 and R38 current control resisters and ran wires to an externally mounted .5K (500ohm) pot.
This gave me an amp adjustment from nearly zero to 5.4A.

The trickiest problem was supplying proper voltage to the volt amp meter.
Although it measures from 0 - 100V, it requires 4.5V-30V to power the meter itself.
Hunting around I found a diode, (D16), with 21V on one end and 0V on the other.
Attached the meter and it lit up so ... lookin' good.
Oops! Plug on amperage wires hit a coil(?) off the circuit board.
So I desoldered the connection pins and soldered wires directly to V A circuit board.

Lookin' goood! ... Put 'er together and hit the switch ....
Oops ... weird voltage readings?
Disassembled and removed power to V A meter and worked properly.
With a prayer, I disconnected the neg wire from the diode and .... miracle of miracles everything worked perfectly.
(The Amp neg ground is common and attached in a good location.)

The result?
39.2V 54.7V adjustment from the top mounted pot, with the optional adjustment of the on board pot shifting the top mounted pot to as low as 31.1-39.7V.

I wanted 30V capability for a full 5A @ 30V.

Since I intend this as a fairly universal power supply, I used a Deans T-Plug for mounting various output connections.

In it's 4th year of use, has become nearly indispensable!
With new 33.3V 31.2Ah build and multiple 37V batteries, voltage and amperage are adjusted multiple times a week.
33V to 36.9V 4A
37V to 41V 3.5A
MeanWell S-150-48 seems to operate well at it's continuous 150 watt rated output.

Unfortunately, installed Volt - Amp meter is slightly off.
It is adjustable, after metering with My Fluke Multi=meter I just adjust slightly to compensate, not worth the bother to open up and adjust.
Well, that sounds pretty lazy ....
Ok ok ... will fix at next spare opportunity!

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

Seems a shame to have to lower the current output so it doesn't break. is the amperage these put out solely limited by the heat produced? could a sealed one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-original-CLG-150-48A-Switching/dp/B06XC9J6J5/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=meanwell+48v&qid=1565134845&s=electronics&sr=1-7



use liquid cooling somehow on the inside? I figure water cooling on the outside would be easy but I fear the bits inside don't have a good thermal path to the aluminum box. I see lots of cheap kits to add to a computer but they're all self-contained and intended for two specific computer components it seems. what parts get hot in a power supply and if it's many couldn't the case be filled with some liquid after coating it all with a layer of resin? I was imagining having it filled with some liquid and also having a fan inside to circulate the liquid.

ever open one of these sealed fan-less power supplies? they must be doing something to get the heat to the aluminum box. I'll open mine and show some pics and hopefully someone could advise me

The goal is to have the smallest most powerful supply by both internally doing what can be done to get the heat to the aluminum box and I'll rig some simple external cooling using coffee shop free water or better yet ice.

 

[nikolay]

I have MW LRS-150-48. Anyone knows if the current can be tweaked on this one? Now if I short circuit it - the current goes up to about 10A for very short time, then it shut completely, then after 1 sec it try again and so on. Without current limit is cannot be used directly. I can adjust the voltage...

The model is this one: https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/ac-dc-single-output-enclosed-power-supply-ac-input-lrs--150--48