Modify YiYun or buy Kelly controller??

RLT

10 kW
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
683
Location
Ruidoso, NM; USA
Well, due to some weird stuff and bad luck happening on my 2WD project, (see my recent posts in the photos &videos section for info, if you are curious) I've decided to go with a single high amp controller instead of using the dual WE brushed hubmotor OEM controllers.

Since I know that I need at least 80 Amps and will be running a nominal 40V (rather than 36 or 48) I'm going to have to go with something pretty "beefy" The question is: which would make more sense, Modifying a YiYun or just buying a Kelly??

I have some experience and success in modifying a YiYun for high voltage, but considering the horrible luck I have had on everything related to this 2WD project, I'm a little hesitant to do anything that isn't idiot proof.... Plus by the time I order all the parts from Digikey (4110 MOSFETS, 40100 Schottkys, Capacitors, and assorted other items (I would order more than I actually need, for spares, future projects and to get the price breaks), I'd be spending nearly $100 and wasting another day in labor.) At least I already have the controller to modify, so I wouldn't have to spend any extra getting one of them....

If I order a Kelly, I can save the labor, probably some frustration and probably get something more reliable, for a fairly reasonable amount of money.

Under consideration are four of the Kelly's: the KDS48200 for $170; the KDS48100 is only $130, but is kind of borderline for the 80A I may need for more than a minute at a time, occasionally.. and the KD48200 for $200. or the KD48201 (regen) for $230

I could save a little money by going with the 36 volt models of the above, but with a fresh charge on the batteries, I'd exceed the max voltage for a few moments on startup, and who knows, I might eventually decide to run 48V when I can afford to buy more batteries.

On the KD48200, the electrical specs are about the same as the KDS48200, but it has the programmability function... which I like, but is twice the size of the KDS units, ....And I'm trying to be as compact and stealthy as possible.

Same with the 48201; plus, I don't know if the regen would be of any use to me at all... I get the idea from other threads that I have read around here that regen for the sake of extending range on bikes is by far more trouble than it is worth, especially if you are running lithiums.... And while I like the idea of regen braking assist, I don't know if it is worth the extra money and the extra hassle.

So, what do you guys think?
 
Hmm, this's probably a good time to add up how much my modded YiYun actually cost me. :D

36V 30A controller from e-crazyman: $29 shipped
2 4110s from ebikes.ca I ordered with my Golden Motor: ~$10
Caps about $5 shipped, only needed two in the controller so: $1

So I paid almost exactly [$40] for my controller.

I'm running 72V and 30A. Schottkys add like, what? $5 or so for two of them?

You'll need a tap on the batteries, a DC/DC, or to replace the voltage regulator/power resistor, though.

EDIT: Link, you idiot! Get back to math class!
 
The regulator input on the 36V Yi Yuns will handle 40 V OK without modification.. I was including some 7815s in my Digikey order in case I decided to convert one of the 24V controllers, since I have 3 of them and only 1 36V one .

And you need four MOSFETS and three Schottkys on the 42 series YiYuns (I'd order 10 of each, just to have spares and to get a decent price break)
 
RLT said:
The regulator input on the 36V Yi Yuns will handle 40 V OK without modification.. I was including some 7815s in my Digikey order in case I decided to convert one of the 24V controllers, since I have 3 of them and only 1 36V one .

And you need four MOSFETS and three Schottkys on the 42 series YiYuns (I'd order 10 of each, just to have spares and to get a decent price break)

Mine ran fine with a 48V pack, actually, and it's still running on a 48V tap.

The one I use is the 36V version of this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-500W-speed-...11332QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

He apparently had the 36V ones upgraded; this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/36V-500W-brushe...11332QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

matches spec exactly with mine, but now has a brake switch, brake light plug, and voltage meter connector.
 
To run 48v or below, the stock FETs in a YK42 might work fine. Replace them only if they blow or run too hot. For 48v and below, there are better FETs than 4110's.
 
Thanks Fechter....
Since I have already pulled 88 amps, I'm a little worried the stock 3435 fets wouldn't last long....
What replacement fets would you recommend that would give a reliable 100A?
 
80amps shared between 4 devices is not bad. Those things hold up amazingly well.
Does it get hot?

If you really want to upgrade it, here are some possible choices:

IRFB3077PBF
IRFB3207ZPBF
IRFB3207

These are all 75v rated. There might be some 55 or 60v rated ones that are cheaper and/or have a lower resistance.
 
Does it get hot?

Haven't the foggiest! :!:
I'm just in the 'thinking about what to do now stage' -
I was in the 'about 3-4 more days away from a test ride stage' before the controller died. Still had a battery pack to finish, and a front battery rack to weld up when the most recent setback occurred.

A couple of hours ago, I started thinking about adding another series string of batteries to the packs, for a nominal 44V. Maybe the extra volts will let me reduce the current enough to stay under 80 amps on all but the steepest hills.

Thanks for the FET part numbers;
At this stage, after dumping so much time and money into the project, an extra few tens of dollars in getting the best FETs for the job is insignificant..... In the hopes that I'll eventually have the most reliable setup possible. I've 'pinched enough pennies' that I wouldn't have, knowing what I know now; So I'm not going to scrimp on these (hopefully) final components.
 
Ordered some IRFB3077PBFs Those look great! Will replace the 3435s with them, and the Schottkys with 40100s , and replace the Caps with 580uF 100V ones.
Will add a strip of heatsink on the controller box behind the FETS and diodes... just happened to have some that will fit perfectly.
Build up the busses with some copper.

That ought to handle everything I can throw at it.
 
Hi,
I'm looking buying the YC43 controller(60v 1000w brushed). I want to run it at 48v for a start . Where/what are the resistors I need to change to adjust the LVC?
Thanks Eddie
 
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