mon-goose to MON-STER

John Bozi said:
go make jokes about something that is uninsulting
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I'm not sure if you're joking or you some how actually find this insulting. I thought only neanderthal like characters in movies took offense at what has to be one of the most genuinely uninsulting, generic, throw away jokes there are. Especially considering I just put "your mum" without any context or the usual implied negative qualities or descriptive attributes that follow. It was clearly just thrown in as a joke and I would have put it there just the same regardless of who posted the question. Anyway, as you were
 
Point G: beer...
Yeah anyway.
21s would provide a speed of 65kph on tc65 in a 2.75x19" mc tyres if Irecall ccorrectly. Also maximizing the limit of the prior mentioned Kelly controller.
I think 65 is a good limit so if I drink and ride, and I don't recommend but have partaken in, but if I do I won't go hitting trees at 80kph or whatever. Also added efficiency and peak power output at lower speed is my preference.
 
John Bozi said:
pendragon8000 said:
I'm thinking 21s .
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Why?

Your the second person who has said this odd number is there ideal who has not tried it. It interests me because came to it by the limitations of grinfineon controller, not my logical choice usually controlled by hk lipo choices of 6s and then logical even numbered charging ports.

24s2p makes sense and 12s4p makes a lot more sense for realistic riding speeds, battery health etc. but too slow.

Now I saw they've got 8s lipo on hk with a single balance plug....

16s2p is looking very sexy and even, although it won't fit my triangle but have been contemplating 4x6s in triangle and 4x8s outside it.

Stupid speed at 28s just under 120v 2p (possible with the lyen I've got)

or run 14s4p which is looking like a tidy long distance haul....

or sorry to digress in my case with my planned dual motor:

14s2p x 25amps bafang mid drive
14s2p x 60 amps 4065 hub which would be in its continuous rating of 2500w


I doubt you could top that with these new 14s hyperion chargers (if they had 7s single plug lipo cheap) or with the 8s ichargers that are also out
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21s is the magic peak voltage for a 4110 Fet controller, whether an 18 or 24 Fet controller. ///Edit/// Jay explained the why in his post.
 
Thanks for all the information, this clearly shows 21 is the spot for most of us and I came to it by chance. :mrgreen:

It also explains why there is a 21s charger which I was confused about.

I go over 60kmh on flats and 55kmh up hills 50 up steep ones. It's really a perfect top speed in the suburbs where 50kmh is almost everywhere but main roads.

Going under 50kmh puts you at the mercy of traffic, I like the option to stay safe to actually go faster to avoid being passed especially when there are parked cars....

The hassle is I can't really carry much more battery than another 2 bricks... I hope running the mid drive on 12s1p will be enough juice...

cheers
 
John Bozi said:
It also explains why there is a 21s charger which I was confused about.
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There's actually no such thing as a specifically defined charger like this, the voltage range on nearly all of them is adjustable so it just depends on what you specify at the factory when getting them made. 21S li-ion/lipo is also almost exactly the same voltage as the 24S lifepo4 (88.2 vs 88.8) so you can use the same chargers and these li-ion packs would be a direct drop in replacement for an old 24S lifepo4 one. So that's point G: :p
 
pendragon8000 said:
Back on topic, does anyone know if my brakes are frocked now that they leaked oil from the caliper? Still haven't sussed it out more.
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No they shouldn't be fuqd. If you got some oil on your pads, that will take a bit of breaking to burn that out though. I say put the new pads in, get your self the cheapest bleed kit you can from your LBS, and see if it leaks after you replace the pads and bleed. If it does, new caliper rebuild kit is in order. The beautiful part is, you are not buying anything you wont need down the road for bike maintenance.
 
Hyena said:
John Bozi said:
It also explains why there is a 21s charger which I was confused about.
Click to expand...
There's actually no such thing as a specifically defined charger like this, the voltage range on nearly all of them is adjustable so it just depends on what you specify at the factory when getting them made. 21S li-ion/lipo is also almost exactly the same voltage as the 24S lifepo4 (88.2 vs 88.8) so you can use the same chargers and these li-ion packs would be a direct drop in replacement for an old 24S lifepo4 one. So that's point G: :p
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Sorry Pend to go off your topic,

Hyena
I was refering to the definitions used as titles for em3ev


http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=153 21s Liion 3.5amps

and now you got me looking at the

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=127 24s life 6amps

I was looking at them a while back when contemplating bulk charging or not. I would bulk charge if I trusted products like the battery medics. but the one I have always gives me different readings to my ichargers so gave up down that route.

Back on topic:
Do you by any chance have your phase wires bundled together with your brake fluid line? Because I had a couple of issues when up the mountain at high heat levels having my rear brake go not work as did when running cool. I was guessing I was heating the fluid.
 
John Bozi said:
Do you by any chance have your phase wires bundled together with your brake fluid line? Because I had a couple of issues when up the mountain at high heat levels having my rear brake go not work as did when running cool. I was guessing I was heating the fluid.
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Nah they are not close.
I'm pretty sure its from putting the disc wheel on and its alignment was pushing against the pads so it might have got hot then. I went to use it on Sunday and a pad wasn't sitting where it should have been and oil dripping. I'll clean it with isopropyl and put new pads in, Maby bleed first.
 
sorry to go off topic again Pend,

It's just that there are a few 4065 experienced people in your thread that I want to pose some questions to...

On a 10 second burst up a steep grade where the hub has bogged down,
5kw WOT @ 10-20 kmh on 4065.
vs
1kW WOT @ 10-20 kmh on bafang bbs02 in granny gear.
would they be pretty equal in how much power is being used for forward motion?
I am guessing there is about 4kw wasted power compared to "almost" no wasted power in the mid drive to heat.
Would the 0-20kmh flat take offs be the same situation?
And finally would a 5kg weight penalty for having the extra mid drive motor be compensated for enough so that it is still an advantage to have it on? and how advantagous?

cheers hope your enjoying the weekend on your toy (if oil is fixed) as my christmas present is still awaiting an adapter so tossing up putting it on or not with all this rain up here....
 
Rix said:
Don't know if I missed it, but did you find out what was going on with your leaky brake?
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IMG_20141206_155913.jpg
IMG_20141206_155848.jpg

the guy at the LBS said "take off the plate on the lever and pump dot 4 through the caliper nipple"

so i found a video that shows bleeding clarks brakes. removed the plate on the lever with it horizontal and a bag over it to catch the old fluid. 30cc of dot 4 in a syring and hooked it on the caliper, turned the nut on the nipple to open the valve. pushed the untire 30cc through the system. closed it all up and cleaned everything with paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. Balanced out the position of the 2 pistons. put the new pads in. had to upen the nipple again and release excess fluid because i over filled the system. then spaced the pads apart to easily slide the caliper over the disc. clamping on the lever while tightening the caliper bolts seemed to be a not too accurate but good enough way to alighn the caliper on the disc.

so its done. still need to strech the drop outs and put the 7 speed in so i can pedal allon at 60kph using the 11t cog on the 7spd.

today i will hopefully do some more on the bmx. I should order some 60c 6s 5ah lipo to. yeah thats right 60c bitches! :D
 
Ken, thats alot of fluid to be coming from a leaky caliper, I am leading more towards your break line having a hole, or your bleeder screw was loose.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Well the volume I put in looks the same as what came out. It was more of a flushing air bubbles and old fluid.
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Thats a releif :D , I thought the puddle was just from a leak while your bike was leaned up against the post or something.
 
Incase you hhaven't seen it yet, I've modded the h4065...

I've tested this attachment I've designed and created with my 3d printer. an impeller than goes on under the disc brake rotor. The colling effect was really significant, producing the cooling effect of the same difference from not drilled to drilled, as , drilled to drilled with the impeller. Essentially double the cooling effect, much like Justin's results on his 9c motor from a while back.

I'm selling them here:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68373


Here are the tests:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68373#p1030688

More test results to come soon.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Incase you hhaven't seen it yet, I've modded the h4065...

I've tested this attachment I've designed and created with my 3d printer. an impeller than goes on under the disc brake rotor. The colling effect was really significant, producing the cooling effect of the same difference from not drilled to drilled, as , drilled to drilled with the impeller. Essentially double the cooling effect, much like Justin's results on his 9c motor from a while back.

I'm selling them here:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68373


Here are the tests:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68373#p1030688

More test results to come soon.
Click to expand...

I think this is going to be the cats meow for air cooling.
 
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