mon-goose to MON-STER

[youtube]m8LyqYonQJc[/youtube]
I got the new plate on the hub and its all good, ill take it off this weekend and drill it.
getting the old piece of hub out of the free wheel was a PITA but i dremeled a fat groove in one side and used my big flat head screw-driver to remove it.
So today was really cool having 2 bikes going and having my old mate Scope power sliding the 6kw monster. He was absolutely loving it. :)
 
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had a fun ride down a shared sealed surface trail with Scope. i went off the trail and along a grass single track, going prety hard about 1.5kw WOT and came accross a droped out piece of grass where a storm water drain flowed water out from under the trail on the left to the river on the right and the drop was about 3ft or so and needles to say at 40kph + i shit myself, but i stayed relaxed and braked as smooth as posible and rolled over with weight back no brake , no throttle in the air and moderate rear brake when landed to stay straight, i was sure i would have a rear pinch flat but didnt have any issues, however the front wheel is a bit off now and i get wobbles with no hands (this was on the scott spark while i folowed scope on the monster).
 
So ive been using the regen option that comes with the lyen controller i got:

1/3 second delay to turn on and off

makes hub get hot quicker

makes axle nuts come loose

saves rear brake pads

extends range slightly

i think I'd rather have another 203mm disk on the back, ill have to see what size i can fit on the frame and weld a disc caliper mount on there i think.
 
i been following this build, waiting for this i guess, ive just done something similar but out of ali.

its still early days and im babying it, want to get it powder coated eventually as a semi heat treating method for the metal once i have the layout installation sorted
it was a rush job/favour at the time, but i feel and will get gussets to the head stem? (steer tube)welded first now ive seen this

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deffx said:
i been following this build, waiting for this i guess, ive just done something similar but out of ali.

its still early days and im babying it, want to get it powder coated eventually as a semi heat treating method for the metal once i have the layout installation sorted
it was a rush job/favour at the time, but i feel and will get gussets to the head stem? (steer tube)welded first now ive seen this

2013-04-11143720_zpsd19554fa.jpg


2013-04-12171534_zpsa3d13497.jpg


2013-04-14114826_zps3f7c697a.jpg


2013-04-27154640_zps883e8213.jpg


2013-04-27170724_zpsa547dc96.jpg
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thats prety cool. i think its funny how people use checker plate for boxes and things like you did, just incase you want to walk up a verticle side of a battery box. sory had to say it, i was thinking about materials that wont go out of fassion when i made my bike, basicaly painted sheet metal was a good option.

Anway going on sides of box to head tube is a good option i think. not totally sure how yet. but i must keep the beast alive! its way too much fun to not fix this structural weekness.
double negatives.. next week, double emtendres and hyperboles
edit
wait was that a double negative or?..
 
The checker plate was a freebie, asked the old man for some 3mm ali, and thats what he gave me. Im on a budget ie. broke. lol. except the specialized big hit cost me seven hundred secondhand. Happy so far, just dont want it too break like yours has, I felt i needed a good downhill bike/frame after running my kit on a couple of light xc type bikes. Hopefully welding plates to the head stem and powder coating/semi heat treatement will hold out. I am not doing anything too hardcore on this bike, as in jumps etc, its pretty much a commuter

Cheers

Deff
 
I'm thinking I'll square up the box and put a triangle piece commingle off the front on a horizonzal plane to keep it from bending. That should do most of the strengthening. But I might add vertical side pieces coming off the box to the head tube.
There's not much point in bandaging the crack in the frame. Might just weld it and grind it back. If this "quick fix" doesn't hold it I guess I'll chop it and extend the box to head tube.
 
Looks like the box isn't holding things together too well.aube you should try some stronger stuff? My guess would be that the bad is flexing and allowing the crack to form. Maybe some thicker aluminum will do?
Maybe you should have your box leaving the Fran at a very shallow angle instead of just running out of the frame. This will help keep the box in place and create some longer welds to help keep the bike together.
I wouldn't weld over the crack lol. It can't be healthy for the bike.
 
Trackman417 said:
Looks like the box isn't holding things together too well.aube you should try some stronger stuff? My guess would be that the bad is flexing and allowing the crack to form. Maybe some thicker aluminum will do?
Maybe you should have your box leaving the Fran at a very shallow angle instead of just running out of the frame. This will help keep the box in place and create some longer welds to help keep the bike together.
I wouldn't weld over the crack lol. It can't be healthy for the bike.
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love those predictive text typos ;) anyway yeah so what hapened is the box morphed at thre front so that the middle of the end points out toward the front and the pivot point was the top of the frame above the crack. if the box is strengthened with a triangle from side to side and to the front, it will prevent the morphing under stress and therefore no more force making the crack. so ill have to do a big staple piece over the cracked area and the triangle infront of the box. ive given it alot of thought over a few days and this is what ive come up with, there are other options but this is what i can do with what i have and i think it will be fine. but hey ill be sure to do the harlem shake on it and repport back ;)

edit
oh yeah and again its not aluminium, its steel.
 
Hows the welding going champ? I assume you got caught up with life or your would have showed us some pics :mrgreen:
 
Track man, to be honest I have been procrastinating big time. Sort of hit a rut in motivation. I had a sore back 2 weeks ago then mild gastro last week. And now its raining all week so yeah... I have a plan and the tools and equipment to do it. If I had a friend come over and be like "ay cun+, fix your monster so I can ride it!" And hung around feeding me beer while I fixed it I would do it. Maby tomorrow night. I really need to drill the side plates and get the thermistor going, for some reason the leg going to negativehall wire doesn'tgo to the CA. And the bracket holding the light was a bit shit and it broke. Do need to re do that. Also need to wire up speed switch and mount the horn and wire it. Long list. Getting the welding done is a good start I guess. Thanks for the interest , I will cultivate some motivation and proceed:)
 
Subscribed! Nice work here! :)

Tommy L sends......
mosh.gif
 
Good one; I'll keep an eye on your repair.
Keep up the good welding, it only takes a grinder and some paint to bring it up to Profesional standards. I'm an Arc splatterer too.
 
Cheers
View attachment 3
I keged some ginger larger today then proceeded to fix the bike frame...
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triangle fix3.JPG
I also replaced the front light bracket with 3mm aluminium, as it was origionaly made with builders plate that was too flexable and cracked from all the vibrations. its solid as now. and as for the frame well it feels as solid as before, so I'll keep an eye on it and hopefully it wont bend this time. I'm fairlt confident it will be ok. I'm going to ride it to work tomorow but thats no test for it really.

I need to get half cut on ginger larger and do some jumps at the park around the conrner. that will be a good test :D
 
ok so i went to the city to check a shop called "little black bike" and it was prety cool they are exclusively bmx. an old kung fu student of mine worked there and i'd been meaining to check it so yeah they were quite reciptive of a friction drive bmx after seeing the MONSTER in there shop. The guys said "well come on show us this in full power" so i put it in 6kw mode and took off chucked a u turn and did a drive by. then went to the park and ripped it up doing jumps etc, so many cops around i decided to walk down to the pub and have a stout, some guy asked:

is that a stealth?
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and we talked for a bit, prety good compliment i thought, so i refered him to ES and told him i got the wheel from stealth.

anyway it seems to be handling well and all my welding/ frame mods are still intact.
 
Like the new braces you put on. When in doubt reinforce the crap out of it 8)
Don't you find it kind of boring how if you want to get to the battery's you need to flip the entire bike over?
 
Trackman417 said:
Like the new braces you put on. When in doubt reinforce the crap out of it 8)
Don't you find it kind of boring how if you want to get to the battery's you need to flip the entire bike over?
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but its not too bad, i just flip it and turn the wheel a bit as the lid swings open then the lid sits back on the rear gusset of the battery box.
 
Subscribed PenD. So what's going on with the blue beast? Looks really neat and clean. Also, on your Monster Y frame, that's definitely steel and those beads look like they came from a stick welder. What kind of rod you using?
 
Pendragon, if welding up side down isn't a factor, try 5/32 or 3/16 inch 7024 electrodes for your welder. This rod can be used vertical and horizontal, oscillating or not, just not overhead and is the easiest rod I have ever used on an arc welder. You will be amazed how pretty the welds come out. BTW, thanks for the info on the thermasistor, appreciate that.

Rick
 
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