mon-goose to MON-STER

pendragon8000 said:
Sounds good Rix. Slower motors are better IMO anyway, peak out put is at lower speed so more torque.
I don't know if you know or care but - I have my thermistor connected to black hall wire and other side has its own signal wire going to the cav3. The negative is common through out so you don't need to havea wire for tthat side.

.

Oh yah I am interested, still have the pic you PM'd me with your explanation when you installed your thermistor.

Rick
 
Rick,
oh yeah cool i forgot about that. i couldnt find any pics of the crystalyte thermistor positioning. do they do it like a hall sensor?

I hit 67.5kph on flat no tuck no pedal today on the monster. kinda accidentally. was just crusing.
thats about 10% more (real life) top speed. this LiPo is getting saggy though, beeps a fair bit with hard take offs after i take the first 25% amp hrs. even when its cold it beeps if its fully charged. i think its just one sagy cell though. maby i should replace that block. ill wait till its too much of a problem to ride it i guess. its anoying cos it sags to 3.2v (with low power consumption near end of capacity) but bounces back to 3.5 . where as the other cells prety much dont sag too significantly.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Rick,
oh yeah cool i forgot about that. i couldnt find any pics of the crystalyte thermistor positioning. do they do it like a hall sensor?

I hit 67.5kph on flat no tuck no pedal today on the monster. kinda accidentally. was just crusing.
thats about 10% more (real life) top speed. this LiPo is getting saggy though, beeps a fair bit with hard take offs after i take the first 25% amp hrs. even when its cold it beeps if its fully charged. i think its just one sagy cell though. maby i should replace that block. ill wait till its too much of a problem to ride it i guess. its anoying cos it sags to 3.2v (with low power consumption near end of capacity) but bounces back to 3.5 . where as the other cells prety much dont sag too significantly.

As near as I can tell that's what they are doing. Its not an in line installed in line with a sensor wire like yours is. Yah you got a tired cell it sounds like. May be better off just replacing your pack, how many cycles you got on it now? more than 200, I would build a new pack. Starting to go into the borrowed time factor.

Rick
 
1/2" lug nut can be used as axle nut on crystalyte h35xx and h40xx motors.
1/2 inch 20tpi - (for search reference)
I used these flat ended "mag" lug nuts.
View attachment 2
they stick out a bit more than the axle did before. but it protects the axle and derailer a bit aswell.

the main advantage is the premium quality material and the extra thread usage alowing more tension before the thread will strip, as the load of the tension will be spread over more length of axle thread. and of course the bling factor 8)

IMG_20140527_171226.jpg
IMG_20140527_171329.jpg
i put the old axle nut there for reference. i think this is the one that i over tightened and damaged but you probably cant tell that in this photo anyway. but that was my initial motivation for this modification. also, i stiped the thread on the axle sorta as soon as i got the new axle in there late last year, but shes held up alright with those fat clamping torque arms. now with the massive car mag lug nuts - even more piece of mind.
 
Was just reading back through
...
Rix said:
Ken, I see you are running your Phase to DC amp ratio about 2.25 to 1. For the sake of performance gain, why not increase to 2.5 to 1? To much twisting force on the axle at start? I don't have any experience with programing so I am going off what I think my understanding of programing is. If I missed, it, please educate I got a huge 24 4110 Mosfet controller coming in with a 5404. Because I want to run 16s at say 125ah, to get some decent top speed, I will need to run speed% at 115 to 120.

Rick
Dude that's gonna have some pep for real.
Just a thing to note ah= amp hours . there's a term "ampere" basically abbreviated is amp, but is similar amp hour when you say it say Maby that's wherethings got mixed up?
So 68v 125a on a 5404 in a 22-23" ?
Running simulator...
Yes very nice.
...
If you use the software I did , that is the recent version. It goes to 115% speed.
You know you might be able to push the amps even further if you are reserved with the thermal roll back in the ca v3(90-135°C). Have you got some lined up to mod the controller, or DIY?
Edit:
More voltage to?
 
Hey mate, not sure if you are interested, but there is going to be a (free) public event with the international guests for the Velo-City cycling conference attending.

It's at the Adelaide Bike Kitchen which is not too far from your place.
http://www.adelaidebikekitchen.com/contact

If you are keen on the ideas of Velo-City Global but can't be at the conference, the Adelaide Bike Kitchen are hosting an alternative event on Thursday night called Velo For'um All.

http://www.eventbrite.com.au/e/velo-forum-all-tickets-11513791059?aff=es2&rank=1

Hear from the cream of Velo-City Global Adelaide 2014 conference speakers and participate in the discussion on how we can improve cycling in Adelaide.

Then eat and party with licensed bar, glorious food and live music.

Doors at 5pm
Speakers from 6pm
Food from 8pm
Party 'till late
 
pendragon8000 said:
Was just reading back through
...
Rix said:
Ken, I see you are running your Phase to DC amp ratio about 2.25 to 1. For the sake of performance gain, why not increase to 2.5 to 1? To much twisting force on the axle at start? I don't have any experience with programing so I am going off what I think my understanding of programing is. If I missed, it, please educate I got a huge 24 4110 Mosfet controller coming in with a 5404. Because I want to run 16s at say 125ah, to get some decent top speed, I will need to run speed% at 115 to 120.

Rick
Dude that's gonna have some pep for real.
Just a thing to note ah= amp hours . there's a term "ampere" basically abbreviated is amp, but is similar amp hour when you say it say Maby that's wherethings got mixed up?
So 68v 125a on a 5404 in a 22-23" ?
Running simulator...
Yes very nice.
...
If you use the software I did , that is the recent version. It goes to 115% speed.
You know you might be able to push the amps even further if you are reserved with the thermal roll back in the ca v3(90-135°C). Have you got some lined up to mod the controller, or DIY?
Edit:
More voltage to?

Probably not going above 16s, 16s with a 5404 will be good for about 35MPH or about 57KPH and a few MPH faster with the controller set at say 120% or so. As Jay pointed out, some times that speed over% program controllers doesn't work on all motors, such as the H40. Not concerning to me at all. I am looking for stump pulling acceleration from dead stop to 30MPH. So I think 16s running @125amps (8.2 KW or so) should achieve that. By the way, got your PM, on the lugs, can you take a photo of the face of the lug? Want to see how big around it is. Whats the wrench size for that, 19mm fits the 1/2 x 20TPI nuts I have better than SAE 13/16th inch does. or was it the 3/4ths inch? I can't remember now, but what ever SAE was sized for that, the 19mm fit the axle nut better.

Rick
 
Allex said:
Why do you guys use 54xx clytes instead of cromotors?

Allex, Ken is actually using a Crystalyte HT3525 hub motor. Its the next size down smaller than the H40 series, which smaller than the 54xx series. But at quick glance, that does look like a 54xx.

Rick
 
Allex said:
Yeah, got a bit off topic... but I mean, why you are using and will distribute them instead of Cros? Aren't they more efficient and lighter?

The Cros are huge, they are about 25 pounds, the 5403 is about 28 pounds, and the 5404 and 5405 almost 29 pounds, according to my bathroom scales. The HT3525 is 15-16 pounds, the H40xx comes in at just over 17 pounds. Are you confusing the Cros with the Crowns (aka TCxx)?
 
Rix said:
Allex said:
Yeah, got a bit off topic... but I mean, why you are using and will distribute them instead of Cros? Aren't they more efficient and lighter?

The Cros are huge, they are about 25 pounds, the 5403 is about 28 pounds, and the 5404 and 5405 almost 29 pounds, according to my bathroom scales. The HT3525 is 15-16 pounds, the H40xx comes in at just over 17 pounds. Are you confusing the Cros with the Crowns (aka TCxx)?

Nah my question was after this:
"That being said, if this goes through, I will only import 5404s"
Why do you prefer 54xx and not the Cros?
 
Allex said:
Rix said:
Allex said:
Yeah, got a bit off topic... but I mean, why you are using and will distribute them instead of Cros? Aren't they more efficient and lighter?

The Cros are huge, they are about 25 pounds, the 5403 is about 28 pounds, and the 5404 and 5405 almost 29 pounds, according to my bathroom scales. The HT3525 is 15-16 pounds, the H40xx comes in at just over 17 pounds. Are you confusing the Cros with the Crowns (aka TCxx)?

Nah my question was after this:
"That being said, if this goes through, I will only import 5404s"
Why do you prefer 54xx and not the Cros?

Because I will be the only one getting 5404s. If I import cros, competing with Zombiess and Methods. But the bigger aspect is, these motors are hard to get. Just ask anyone. My goal is to get these motors into the hands of ebike enthusiasts, just like us. My profit margin won't be much at all per unit. Maybe 20-30 bucks tops once I get going. But I am curious to see if this goes through. Will see.

Rick
 
pendragon8000 said:
I just did a quick calculation on the ebike.ca/simulator. Its giving me
Crystalyte 5404 kV = 8.9 rpm/v
Compared to the cromotor = 9.4
So its about 10% slower and could be used as a nice low speed torquey work horse.

That's what I am thinking Ken. I think the cromotor is probably a little faster and slight more powerful motor than the 5404. But the 5404 has a 10mm larger diameter hub which helps compensate a little for the narrower stator, which is why its also slower on RPM same volts input. I don't compare the cromo to the 5403 or 5405 as the cromotor has a 4 turn stator like the 5404. I was told by an ES guy, that his experience between the cromotor and 5403 was that the 5403 could handle more Peak watts longer, but his experience was with the V1 and not V2 or V3 cromo. Just something to think about.

Rick
 
Going back to this:
file.php

I found its about what I expected from the ebike.ca/simulator after some more riding
And more quiet.
And efficient. About the same as it was although seemingly more power.

So I'm lead to beleive from this setting of 115% speed it is more like full power unrestricted by pwm (pulse width modulation)
Than some mystical turbo.

Pwm at less than 100% duty cycle while under heavy load would decrease efficiency, be noisyer and be less powerful. And it was st the software "100%" so that's my summary on that.
 
Very Interesting Ken, so if work and load are wanting to be achieved and be more efficient, then the over% settings are counteracting that. So would it be that no load moderate speed cruising, would the over% settings increase efficiency?

Rick
 
Rix said:
Very Interesting Ken, so if work and load are wanting to be achieved and be more efficient, then the over% settings are counteracting that. Should it be that no load moderate speed cruising, would the over% settings increase efficiency?

Rick
Well if the speed was restricted during my commute style of about 2.5km per stop on flat, then it would be more efficient do to the FETs work cycle being on without pwm impending on efficiency . that is with the speed restricted to what it was before increasing the controllers % , by restricted I mean with the cycle analyst. Interestingly I used the same amount of ah today as normal but was going faster.

Does that make sense?

FETs are inefficient when switching on and off (pwm)

So running them so they are running 100% on they are more efficient.
 
Going faster and using the same amount of AH. Let me take a guess, you were going faster, but not WOT and not as much throttle as before correct, if that's the case and on flat, then it does make sense that over% speed setting would be helping because what your are making up in speed power demand, would be offset by your FET switching loss rate because of the compensation for the over 100% speed set? This is the one area I need to learn more about.

Rick
 
Its difficultto discus in text. The controller >100% setting being AFAIK actually FETs on , rather than limited by pwm makes it more efficient at getting energy from battery to the wheel. Going faster obviously taxes that but still I was seeing similar amp hours used with a faster commute. (Same daily rout)

BTW might be starting a new thread soon as I'm helping a friend build a 6kw bmx. We are making slow but steady progress as items arrive.
 
pendragon8000 said:
1/2" lug nut can be used as axle nut on crystalyte h35xx and h40xx motors.
1/2 inch 20tpi - (for search reference)
I used these flat ended "mag" lug nuts.
View attachment 2
they stick out a bit more than the axle did before. but it protects the axle and derailer a bit aswell.

the main advantage is the premium quality material and the extra thread usage alowing more tension before the thread will strip, as the load of the tension will be spread over more length of axle thread. and of course the bling factor 8)

View attachment 1

i put the old axle nut there for reference. i think this is the one that i over tightened and damaged but you probably cant tell that in this photo anyway. but that was my initial motivation for this modification. also, i stiped the thread on the axle sorta as soon as i got the new axle in there late last year, but shes held up alright with those fat clamping torque arms. now with the massive car mag lug nuts - even more piece of mind.

yes looks pimp alright, should have made them a bit longer so you can stand on them double someone... how much longer are they?

I like the black plastic cover ends i got with my crystalyte motor - makes it a bit softer and blunter in the event hitting skin...
 
Yeah they are a bit toy grade for strength those end caps, a big threaded nylon sleeve would be nice. Like a Sort of lock nut.
I would say these stick out 10-15m guessing. I have 10mm clamping torque arms and washers between dropout and motor so if you had no washers and thin torque arms it wwouldn't sick out much. If they were used as a lock but on the original but it would stick out a bit more. Its really way way to short to be used practically as a foot peg.

I might set up regen again now that I have these big axle nuts . it was aannoying how the old ones would get loose sometimes.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Yeah they are a bit toy grade for strength those end caps, a big threaded nylon sleeve would be nice. Like a Sort of lock nut.
I would say these stick out 10-15m guessing. I have 10mm clamping torque arms and washers between dropout and motor so if you had no washers and thin torque arms it wwouldn't sick out much. If they were used as a lock but on the original but it would stick out a bit more. Its really way way to short to be used practically as a foot peg.

I might set up regen again now that I have these big axle nuts . it was aannoying how the old ones would get loose sometimes.

DONT SAY MIGHT oops caps lock was on

just do it, ive seen pos neg of regen but its simple - if youve got it use it because it saves your brakes.

of course I get about 10% back and heat but if you dont have heat problems there is a win win situation.
I have heat problems and still would prefer to heat up then replace brakes.

It also makes me a safer rider: I often start slowing down much earlier approaching things (forced by the way regen works) less chances to have accidents at lower speeds.

You also have 3 brakes instead of two when you really need it. I do going down steep mountains.
 
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