danjpendleton
100 W
Anyone know of a larger chain ring for this thing?
Mongoose dolomite fatbike? 7spd, disk brakes, INEXPENSIVE
- Thread starter danjpendleton
- Start date
danjpendleton
100 W
the mt bike forum guys are all trying to drop the gearing to allow lower speed effective pedalling....not me though 
Chalo
100 TW
A bigger chainring should be relatively easy to find. However, the frame will only allow a ring so big before it touches the frame. Try to reckon what size that is before you go looking.
danjpendleton
100 W
View attachment 1
wheels came out excellent. still need to space the freewheel a bit more and double check the rotors position in relation to the caliper mount but im confident i can get everything lined up.
the tires are going to be so so at first but i just need to get this rolling.
I plan on ordering a 7240 grinfineon controller, a cycle analyst v3, along with ezeebrake levers, and jst connector housings and crimp tool.
Ill try to upload some more pics tommorow when the rear wheel is bolted in
GiantEV
100 W
Have you considered an Adaptto Mini-E?
Lenk42602
10 kW
danjpendleton said:
dan, that crankset has a pinned chain ring on it. they are not designed to be replaced, rather thrown out when worn sufficiently. Any square taper crank should do you just fine.
Chain line will need to be considered though.
Another thing - did I miss somewhere how you are getting a rear axle that will fit a 170 spaced rear dropout?
Cheers,
Len
wesnewell
100 GW
For the record, I measured the dropouts at 205mm, but they can be squeezed together considerably. I'm going to use jam nuts on the inside, and longer 6mm caliper mount bolts and washers to align the disc so I can keep the wheel centered.
danjpendleton
100 W
I have Dr bass torque arms I can weld on the inside of the dropout but I'm a little bummed because there's no way I can get all 7 speeds to work on this thing.
Unless I can shorten the spindle on the BB and notch the chain stay where the pedal arm will contact
I'll post pics today
Unless I can shorten the spindle on the BB and notch the chain stay where the pedal arm will contact
I'll post pics today
danjpendleton
100 W
danjpendleton
100 W
Lenk42602 did u reuse the spindle from the bottom
Bracket with your new origin 8 one?
Bracket with your new origin 8 one?
danjpendleton
100 W
New sealed yst bottom bracket cups. Reused the original spindle. new masi/fsa square taper 42t crankset i scored from ebay
Still need to get my chainline right and im hoping i can get at least 3 speeds out of the rear freewheel. Its a dnp 11 small tooth freewheel so it should have effective pedalling at maybe 25-30 in the highest gear? Thats a total guess
I might need to use some spacers and longer bolts for the front chain ring to get it in closer to the frame...
I put those rediculous cruiser bars on because i had them kicking around, but already purchased some really nice easton carbon bars 685mm long, with a slight rise. Theyre like 150 grams...60 shipped from blue sky cycling for black friday!
Just need to hunt down a nice short stem.
Purchased a new seatpost clamp and seatpost.
This bike is going to be awesome. Eventually ill buy new tires
Chalo
100 TW
Be gentle when installing those plastic bars and everything mounted on them. I've watched such things snap off before my own eyes. Use a torque wrench.
Lenk42602
10 kW
danjpendleton said:
hey dan, I purchased a sealed cartridge unit, so no slop to worry about. By the way I ended up promptly taking my dolomite back to Target long ago, and I still have the sealed bb I you want it.
In the end, I think that robust steel frame is a good platform as a frame and fork - especially if you anticipate welding a battery enclosure into the main triangle. The weight of the frame is due to the heavy wall tubing. This was my original plan before I converted my mongoose maneuver full suspension bike to mid drive and zapped in a battery box. The early 2000's vintage full suspension bso's from mongoose were ridiculously heavy due to the wall thickness of the tube main frames.
The wheels particularly the hub design on the dolomite was just too low quality for me to have any faith in. Like I said though, the route you're going kind of works around that issue. I need a decent set of wheels on my bike because they are being powered by my legs instead of an e-motor...
I purchased one of these for lower than I can ep any fat bike at the shop. Been pleased so far.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/fat-bikes-boris-x5-fatbikes.htm
Once the snow starts piling up here in Pittsburgh I will actually be able to use it in the snow.....
if you want that cartridge bb let me know.
Len
danjpendleton
100 W
What's the width of the spindle? I didn't think they made anything long enough for this bike
Lenk42602
10 kW
137.5mm
http://www.jbi.bike/web/checking_product_description.php?part_number=17157
gotta know where to look.....
http://www.jbi.bike/web/checking_product_description.php?part_number=17157
gotta know where to look.....
danjpendleton
100 W
I thought the spindle width was like 190mm on this bike....if the width of your bb spindle is 137mm its too short. Unless your reusing the original spindle somehow??
wesnewell
100 GW
Well, I finally got the bike finished enough to take it fro its first ride yesterday. MXUS 3000W motor, 24s lipo, 40A controller. It was too cold (for me) to stay out long so I only rode it a couple of miles. Has plenty of power even with the 29" diameter 4" tires. Really uncomfortable for me with the standard handlebars having to lean over too much but I'm happy with the performance. Got new 5" riser handlebars on the way. Might ride it a little more Monday if it warms a little. I used one of the orange Weinmann DHL101 rims for the motor. Here's a few pics.
danjpendleton
100 W
i need to know more about your chain line and bb...wesnewell
wesnewell
100 GW
It's all stock including the freewheel that came with the bike. Adjusted dérailleur stop all the way in. Allows a fairly straight drive on highest gear. IIRC I can go in about 3 cogs. but I'll probably never use any but the last. The thing I had to adjust was the brake calipers to match up with the disc. Had to move it in about 1/2 to 3/4 inch using longer mount bolts and washers to get it aligned properly.
danjpendleton
100 W
Wesnewell nice work bud! I was thinking about setting my bike up with a 3 speed shifter because im pretty sure ill only get 3 gears out of this thing. Havent really explored that quite yet tho. Did you weld in some spacers to the inside of the rear dropouts to take up some space?
danjpendleton
100 W
View attachment 1
Ive had a lot of fun upgrading the components on this bike. The frame was cheap enough and all the parts were pretty inexpensive as well.
New truvativ stem, race face 27.2 seatpost, cane creek seatpost shim, xst seatpost clamp, carbon easton bars, new bb cups/bearings, new fsa crankset, and a dnp 7 speed freewheel. still on the hunt for a nice seat
diggler
1 kW
Yes wesnewell that thing is mint!
I'm currently building a fat gas/electric hybrid. Got the gas part done.
I have a jackshaft kit for the gas engine and I have to use all my 7 gears on the free wheel. (especially the first one!)
I am strongly leaning towards the mxus 3000w!
And your saying that you had to do nothing on the free wheel side? Did you put spacers on the break side? And the chain cleared the tire on low gear?
I have the same 72V 40A controller you are using, just sitting in my room.
How does your bike perform? Did you record your max speed yet? (you don't do that %120 throttle thing do you?)
At 3840W peak at least you know you will never burn up the motor right? (unless your moving real slow up hill full throttle of course)
Any plans for another controller? Adapto mini-e would be perfect for this motor! Don't you agree?
edit- just saw you said you could only go up 3 cogs
Well I can move my front cog in and out so I should be able to get it to work...
I'm currently building a fat gas/electric hybrid. Got the gas part done.
I have a jackshaft kit for the gas engine and I have to use all my 7 gears on the free wheel. (especially the first one!)
I am strongly leaning towards the mxus 3000w!
And your saying that you had to do nothing on the free wheel side? Did you put spacers on the break side? And the chain cleared the tire on low gear?
I have the same 72V 40A controller you are using, just sitting in my room.
How does your bike perform? Did you record your max speed yet? (you don't do that %120 throttle thing do you?)
At 3840W peak at least you know you will never burn up the motor right? (unless your moving real slow up hill full throttle of course)
Any plans for another controller? Adapto mini-e would be perfect for this motor! Don't you agree?
edit- just saw you said you could only go up 3 cogs
Well I can move my front cog in and out so I should be able to get it to work...
wesnewell
100 GW
I used a jam nut and the torque washers on the axle on the inside of the dropouts on both sides. On the outside,just the thin axle washer and the lug nut. The jam nuts allow me to torque the lug nuts down as tight as I want and I've never had one come loose after 15K miles with my other bike doing it this way. I don't use torque arms or plates. Just the torque washers and really tight axle nuts. I don't think you'll be able to get to all 7 gears with a hub motor unless you get an extender for the freewheel, assuming they make one. Might be able to use a 9 spd freewheel and get to 7 gears of it. Since this has never been a concern of mine, I didn't check it too closely. When the weather warms up enough for me to ride, I'll look at it a little more. Here's close ups of both sides.
danjpendleton
100 W
Is the mxus wider? I had to use a freewheel spacer from ebikekit.com to get it in the ballpark. Dr bass makes weldable torque arms, which is what i have to take up the additional space
