Motor or controller fail (?) SOLVED

[fesanand]

Hi,

Previous: this combo motor and controller has been servicing me flawlessly for 6 month. I just bought a new bike frame and a pelicase and transfer the motor, and controller into the pelicase.
I also lightly moded the shunt adding some thin copper wire and soldering wire as you can see in the picture.

The problem showed up at first start.

As you can see in the video applying minimum throttle there's a "limp" movement of the wheel. From 10% to WOP the motor stops.

The 3 hall sensors have been checked with volt-meter and they give the values expected: 5v to 0.08v when you move slightly the wheel by hand.

Throttle has been checked, giving as stated by manufacturer: 0.8v at 0% and 3.5v at wot.

All the wires have been double checked.

My first thought is that I damaged the controller when I removed it from its case and I attached it to the pelicase... I was careful but you never know.

The dilemma comes now, should I buy a controller?... I could encounter that the problem was the motor... and vice versa if I buy the motor.

I'd like to hear your advise and experience, I know there's people there who knows by far more than me about electronic/controllers/motors.

Many thanks in advance.

Video of the issue: https://vid.me/alj6

Detail of the shunt moded:


Controller info: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/moto...DC-48V-1500W-18-mosfet-G-K018/1595920759.html

 

[mybike]

I would not buy a motor first as the controller is far cheaper to test and having a spear one is always handy.

Check your connection block once again. Did you first tighten your Motor bolts to the bike before you twisted your throttle?

WHY is your wire from the motor moving when the motor tries to turn?

 

[Ykick]

Might be one of those "learning" controllers which can run without Hall sensor signals? Is there any wire labeled "learn" or similar? Going forward and backward - that's about the only thing that would make sense. But, I don't have any of those learning controllers so I'm not really sure?

 

[mybike]

I can not see it being the learning sensor as it will make it just spine back and not forward continuously, that’s my experience however that was on a geared motor.

His motor wire looks like it wants to turn with the motor while the motor is trying to turn the right way first but changes its mind. Yep also might be something to do with Hall wires.

First make sure your wheel is bolted and the motor wire don’t spine with the wheel
Dos it run without the Hall Wires connected

 

[fesanand]

I can not see it being the learning sensor as it will make it just spine back and not forward continuously, that’s my experience however that was on a geared motor.

His motor wire looks like it wants to turn with the motor while the motor is trying to turn the right way first but changes its mind. Yep also might be something to do with Hall wires.

First make sure your wheel is bolted and the motor wire don’t spine with the wheel
Dos it run without the Hall Wires connected

Hi now is bolted properly and the wire doesn't move at all.
I disconnected the hall wire and it makes exactly the same than in the video.

 

[fesanand]

Might be one of those "learning" controllers which can run without Hall sensor signals? Is there any wire labeled "learn" or similar? Going forward and backward - that's about the only thing that would make sense. But, I don't have any of those learning controllers so I'm not really sure?

I tried also the learning wire. When I connect (jumper) them it staright away(without any load to the throttle) makes the same than the video.

 

[mybike]

Hi now is bolted properly and the wire doesn't move at all.
I disconnected the hall wire and it makes exactly the same than in the video.

If you perversely not bolted the wheel on and secured your motor wires and the wheel turned you might have tangled and ripped a wire or more from inside your motor i hope this turns out not the case. “Did you have your motor not secured properley when you very first time turned your throttle As the video clearly shows the wires turning with the motor”

This is how the learning wire (self study wire) works in my experience.
1. Disconnect the battery from your bike from the battery cable.
2. Connect the learning wire.
3. Connect the battery up and give a little throttle and keep hold, the wheel will start moving back and forth 2-3 (may be more) times then will start to spin the correct way. While the motor is spinning the right way with your other hand disconnect the learning wire (thats the self-study wire) that’s it. You can now let go of the throttle.

There is no mistake I gone over the video again each time I do I am convinced you have damaged cable/ ripped out a wire or so from your motor side. I really hope i am wrong about this but the video shows a problem with that wire turning and hitting your frame and that is not good.

 

[fesanand]

There is no mistake I gone over the video again each time I do I am convinced you have damaged cable/ ripped out a wire or so from your motor side. I really hope i am wrong about this but the video shows a problem with that wire turning and hitting your frame and that is not good.

When I did the video and before this wheel never spin for one single turn so the axle never twisted the cable or ripped it. Hall sensor are giving me correct voltages shouldn't be damaged but to reassure myself later-today I'll open the lids of the wheel and I'll double check the cable and look for any possible shortcut or ripped part.


What really makes me freak out is the behaviour of the Self study wire moving the hub motor without any throttle load. First time I mounted the motor I had to use the study wire following the instructions and worked perfectly (the wheel run backwards and after using the "study-w" it run forward), and that time I don't remember that the motor moved at all.

Secondly is that Hall wire or without hall wire, twisting the throttle the wheel makes the same movement.

 

[fesanand]

Finally I found the problem by chance. In the most unsuspecting wire, the "Electric Door Lock red thin wire" The instructions says literally: If your ebike without electric door lock please connect red thin wire and thick red wire(power+) together .So that both wires were soldered 6 months ago. Today I disolder them to fully disassemble the controller and by chance I wanted to test if it worked. No movement of motor. Then jump them again and voila!!! motor working perfectly.

Why that happened? no idea. Looks like needed to be disconnected to self reset the controller.... just guessing.

I hope this thread help anyone who encounters this problem.

Many many thanks to Mybike and Ykick who motivated me to look further in the connectors wires and cables :wink:

 

[d8veh]

I think it was the self-learning that worked. You connect the self learning wires and switch on. The controller goes through a sequence that involves it rotating the wheel by itself to learn the correct phase/hall sequence. You then switch off, disconnect the self-learning wires, and when you switch on again, it works properly. If you don't connect the key-lock wires, the controller is switched off, so the motor cannot move, judder or hum.