Mounting 5304 motor

Nice bike - stealthy.

and I see where the torque arm goes... :wink:

I got the Maxxis Holy Rollers after measuring my bike for the Hookworms. They wouldn't have fit. Got about a pencil width on each side now.
 
So, now that I got the direction of force on the axle right, I re worked the torque arm (hmm key). Thanks guys- good to have a forum..

The bottom edge near the wires is rounded slightly, so it won't cut them.
Its a tight fit, but made sure I didn't spread the dropout on the stay.

I was sick for 3 1/2 days during holidays here - would ask why does one get sick on vacation but never at work - that's another thread.

Another problem I'm having is with alignment. Don't remember pushing that hard to get the freewheel past the stay, but my rear wheel is not vertical.

Think I got it right yesterday. Used 4 plumb bobs (red thread and weights) to check vertical and thread wound around the front and back tires for alignment. You can't use a bubble level that well- the tubes are different sizes.

Anyway, here's the redone torque key. All by hand with files. El Cheapo won't buy a $60 Dremel
 

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Just looking at the latest pic of the torque arm

I will first say that I dont know much about them as I dont have one myself but would that setup not make spreading the dropouts easier as the force is applied to a slightly weaker part of the dropouts - a bit like using a lever to get more force or a pipe on the end of a spanner

As I say I dont know much at all on this subject and the reverse may prove to be true
 
numberonekiwi said:
... the reverse may prove to be true
Yup.

The shaft will try to rotate CW, so the bit in the gap will need to go through the whole flat to tear out.
 
TylerDurden said:
numberonekiwi said:
... the reverse may prove to be true
Yup.

The shaft will try to rotate CW, so the bit in the gap will need to go through the whole flat to tear out.

The way DeepKimchi's torque arm is secured only to the inside of the dropout, it will act like a lever to make the dropout spread easier. At 48v40a, probably it won't matter. To do its job though, the torque arm must be affixed to some part of the frame outside of the dropout slot. I cut torque arms for both sides of my x5, and bolted them above the dropout slots:
img_2445_553.jpg

Added a second bolt since taking this pic:
img_2443_553.jpg
 
xyster said:
The way DeepKimchi's torque arm is secured only to the inside of the dropout, it will act like a lever to make the dropout spread easier.

That might be true if the motor runs backwards.

Forwards, the torque arm can't progress CW and the axle is deep in the slot where the dropout is strongest.
 

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TylerDurden said:
xyster said:
The way DeepKimchi's torque arm is secured only to the inside of the dropout, it will act like a lever to make the dropout spread easier.

That might be true if the motor runs backwards.

Forwards, the torque arm can't progress CW and the axle is deep in the slot where the dropout is strongest.

You're right TD. Nevermind DK. :)
 
I agree. DK's solution is elegant (because it's simpler but does the same thing just as well or better).
 
Yeh - only took about 6 hrs to make. :lol:

Lets see 6 X $ 20/hr = $ 120 a piece at Union wages.

Gotta buy that Dremel.... :?

About to road test (pedal power) to see if the gears still work.

Don't want then shifting on that small rear sprocket either..
 
Finally got it adjusted. First time on the large rear sprocket the cage was rubbing my hub motor. Can wax the rub out.

Adjusted it also so it doesn't go in the smallest gear, not enough space between gear and stay tube.

It seems more stable with the weight so low Bet on Spring Equinox you could balance it while stopped. :lol:

Rear is so heavy I'd hate to haul it up stairs. Feels like someone superglued it to the pavement.

I have some weird low vibration while riding. I hope its the new Maxxis Holy Roller. Let's try some more air.
 
I bought my X5 5304 2 years ago and I have lots of problems with spokes. The hub is not centered and is dished so much that I broke lots of spokes. The bike mechanic in my LBS who fixes my spokes swore that the chinese people who made these hubs are idiots who know nothing about bicycle wheels. All they know is just build hubs but did not consider how they will be mounted.

In the new X5 5304, has these been corrected? Is the hub motor centered after you mount it, with no dishing?

Thanks... Jojo
 
Torque arm in my AL1020 is similar to Deepkimchi's design!?
 

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The7 said:
Torque arm in my AL1020 is similar to Deepkimchi's design!?

kind of but not really.

Thats another little thing that helps to lock the axle into the dropout. Torque arm would have to be much larger. this still puts stress on the dropout, where as a torque arm puts it further up the chain or seat stay.

regarding the design - i tend to agree. It will be interesting to see how the puma compares in real life experience (the next motor i buy).
 
I think as Xyster mentioned, it depends on the freewheel.

The 7 gear freewheel takes a lot more dishing than 5 gear.
 
Can I use a 3 speed freewheel on a Specialized FSR mountain bike? And where can I get one...
 
shinyballs said:
I bought my X5 5304 2 years ago and I have lots of problems with spokes. The hub is not centered and is dished so much that I broke lots of spokes. The bike mechanic in my LBS who fixes my spokes swore that the chinese people who made these hubs are idiots who know nothing about bicycle wheels. All they know is just build hubs but did not consider how they will be mounted.

In the new X5 5304, has these been corrected? Is the hub motor centered after you mount it, with no dishing?

Thanks... Jojo

The design was revised since then to have the dish built into the hub and not the spokes.
 
Thanks Lowell, I may have to change my 5304 with the new one and just sell my old motor. With the new 5304, do you guys experience any spokes breakage? I heard that the one thats already built has 12gauge spokes(more stronger) already laced. Is this true?


Can't seem to post a new topic here... got this message:
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