MTB for 1500W or 1000W 48V

[rb7]

Hello guys,

I am thinking of building an electric MTB with leafbikes 1000W or 1500W 48V 26inch rear hub kits. I have little knowledge about mountain bikes, therefore can someone suggest when getting a MTB what are the things i should be looking out for if I will be putting a 1000W or 1500W kits?

Also what kind of tire/tyre size will be appropriate?

I weigh roughly 80kg so should i be looking out for a light bike? What kind of brakes i should go for? Aluminium or steel frame? etc

Please advice...

 

[dogman dan]

You need sturdy, not light. For this reason, high speed downhill models are often the choice. Bikes made to ride a lift up, then race down again.

Not cross country racing bikes, made to be as light as possible for the uphill part.

The number one feature I'd be looking for to run one of the really big motors, is a removable dropout. so you can fabricate beefy clamping replacement dropouts, adding about 3 inches more length to the bike.

If not that, then look for a big thick flat plate in the dropout area, rather than a fancy shaped dropout full of holes for lightening it. You need some beef to bolt on your torque plates.

You could go with steel, starting with a cheap steel bike, then welding on whatever you want. I was assuming you wanted to run off road, so I was talking about full suspension mtbs.

 

[wesnewell]

I weigh ~120kg and I've got 3+ years and 12,000 miles on my Mongoose Ledge 2.1 with no torque arms up to 61.4 mph downhill with 1000W motor, 24s lipo on 40A controller. I use 32mm rims with CST Cyclops tires, a big seat, and riser handlebars. I did have to replace the bottom bracket bearings after about a year and 3k miles. No problems since. The aluminum framed bike has steel swing arm and dropouts.

 

[dogman dan]

And worth noting, Wes is talking about street use. While I was talking about pounding the dogshit out of a bike riding fast off road. Those are very different things.

You can definitely get away with a much cheaper bike with weaker frame on the street. But the steel rear end of the mongoose ledge can be a plus.

So what are you asking for? Advice about a full on off road motorcycle with pedals? or a street ride? A bike with a 20 buck fork is fine on the street. For serious off road riding you are looking at bikes with $500-$1500 forks.

 

[rb7]

I weigh ~120kg and I've got 3+ years and 12,000 miles on my Mongoose Ledge 2.1 with no torque arms up to 61.4 mph downhill with 1000W motor, 24s lipo on 40A controller. I use 32mm rims with CST Cyclops tires, a big seat, and riser handlebars. I did have to replace the bottom bracket bearings after about a year and 3k miles. No problems since. The aluminum framed bike has steel swing arm and dropouts.

thank you for getting back to me.. I will be mainly using it for street use... So i think I will go for the mongoose... Can you please confirm it has steel swing arms and dropouts or is this something I will have to purchase additionally?

Also why did you go for a 32mm rims when the rear motor hub is coming with its own rim?

 

[dogman dan]

The cheap bikes always have steel rear swing arms. you can easily confirm with a fridge magnet.

The low end FS mtbs can work fine for street, or even moderate trail, dirt roads.

Mostly they just fail if you try to load them too heavy for a tour, or daily commute. The frames start flexing side to side a lot, if you put too much weight on the rear of one. This is why Wesenwell carries his battery up forward, half on each side of the frame. Limit any rear rack loads to less than 10 pounds.

 

[heavymetalthunder]

I have a older all steel Mongoose full suspension bike with a 1000w front hub mount built 3 years ago with about 10K commuter miles on it. The frame and shocks have held up well, but a few parts like the pedals, and front shifter did not. To carry the weight I also got rid of the aluminum rim and went to a older steel rim, failing that I would suggest a double walled aluminum rim. The older steel rim is heavier but has held up very well when hitting ruts and pot holes. I was lucky as I had a old mountain which back in the old days had better quality parts. It had good metal pedals, shifter, as well as steel rims, so I just used parts off of that. Also if plan to use it for commuting as I do I would switching to road tires, currently I'm using a 26 X 1.95 Commuter tire by Kenda, works well on the street, but not for off road. Lastly, you will need head and tail lights.