MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Having just stripped the axle threads off of my HS3540 at 20 foot pounds torque, I'm eager to find out how strong the steel is in the MXUS 3000 axle. Nothing could be as soft as a clyte axle?

It looks like this motor could be an excellent choice for a 2-3kW build and I'd certainly try it if I could get my hands on one for a reasonable price :)
 
molybdenum said:
Having just stripped the axle threads off of my HS3540 at 20 foot pounds torque, I'm eager to find out how strong the steel is in the MXUS 3000 axle. Nothing could be as soft as a clyte axle? :)

i had recommended a solution before. if you can find a threaded coupling of the same thread pitch and dimension to use for the axle nut it would spread out the force on the threads when torquing down the coupling so it should not shear the threads as easily.

i wonder if anyone ever looked into this and found a coupling of the correct size to implement this as a solution? it would allow someone to use the axle even after the threads adjacent the dropout were stripped.

multiple nuts don't offer the same fix imo since the force would still be concentrated on just the threads in the nut being torqued so it would still strip, but the force would be spread over 3-4 times the number of threads if the coupling was used to replace the shorter nut on the axle.

if someone finds the right coupling they should buy a bunch and resell them here.
 
dnmun said:
molybdenum said:
Having just stripped the axle threads off of my HS3540 at 20 foot pounds torque, I'm eager to find out how strong the steel is in the MXUS 3000 axle. Nothing could be as soft as a clyte axle? :)

i had recommended a solution before. if you can find a threaded coupling of the same thread pitch and dimension to use for the axle nut it would spread out the force on the threads when torquing down the coupling so it should not shear the threads as easily.

i wonder if anyone ever looked into this and found a coupling of the correct size to implement this as a solution? it would allow someone to use the axle even after the threads adjacent the dropout were stripped.

multiple nuts don't offer the same fix imo since the force would still be concentrated on just the threads in the nut being torqued so it would still strip, but the force would be spread over 3-4 times the number of threads if the coupling was used to replace the shorter nut on the axle.

if someone finds the right coupling they should buy a bunch and resell them here.

Actually this wouldn't work the way you think. The forces a nut or threaded coupling apply to a threaded shaft aren't equally distributed along the length of the nut or coupling. The first few threads take almost the entire force. So even if a 1/2" coupling has 10 threads, only the first two or three are applying any appreciable load.
 
dnmun said:
i don't believe that. if the thread pitch is the same the force will be spread across all of the threads inside the coupling.

I know that most people would assume the force is spread across all the threads, but in real life it doesn't work that way. I'll look it up in my Mechanics textbook if I can find it. Or I'm sure a cursory googling will do it too.

[does google search]

here we go:

Most mechanical engineers recognize that when a bolt is in tension, more than 80% of the tensile force in bolt shaft is carried by the first few engaged threads.

source: http://www.bastiontechnologies.com/gfx/Bolt%20Thread%20Loading.pdf
 
However, that doesn't mean your idea wouldn't work, it would just work differently. If the first two or three threads aren't already toast, it will finish destroying them as it applies load. But then once those threads are destroyed, it will start loading the good threads further down the shaft and those threads should be fine and load bearing.
 
The axle will have its weakest point where the thread starts, no matter how thick coupling you will use. Sure it will be stronger when you apply the forse directly to it but not if you begin to twist it. But if you could connect the actual axle AND the threaded part of it with a coupling only then it will be stronger.
 
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I would be interested in purchasing a motor, since I am getting ready to rebuild a HS3540 that had fried on me anyway. This may be less expensive and possibly better in the end, but based on their response rating, "Alibaba" you may not hear back from them for a while. It states only 52.6% of buyers inquiries had been responded to in time. Not exactly sure who sets the schedule, but regardless a 52.6% rate is pretty low. :?

I am still interested if someone can setup a group purchase, but I would be wary about giving anyone money until knowing what this vendors delivery history is. If it takes 6 months to get a motor, not worth the savings, at least not for me.

Has anyone purchased from this manufacturer before, what was their story.
 
ditto on the group buy, if it's going to happen...
 
mlt34 said:
ditto on the group buy, if it's going to happen...

+ Myself for the group buy. This is what I just sent them. We'll see if we get a response.

Hello
I have already sent you a message but it was all broken up so here is a new one! I am in a club with many members who are interested in this motor. We wish stronger axles but still fit regular bike drop outs. We would like Hall sensors,12 gauge phase wires and built-in temperature sending unit with wires.

Price please for 20 pieces shipped to USA zip code 05701. How much for cheap shipping and how much for fast shipping?

Thank you
 
Kent said:
mlt34 said:
ditto on the group buy, if it's going to happen...

+ Myself for the group buy. This is what I just sent them. We'll see if we get a response.

Hello
I have already sent you a message but it was all broken up so here is a new one! I am in a club with many members who are interested in this motor. We wish stronger axles but still fit regular bike drop outs. We would like Hall sensors,12 gauge phase wires and built-in temperature sending unit with wires.

Price please for 20 pieces shipped to USA zip code 05701. How much for cheap shipping and how much for fast shipping?

Thank you

I love your stilted language. I've found that's the best way to communicate when it comes to these things. I imagine a stereotype in my head and type as if I'm in that character. Ironically it leads to less confusion that way… :lol:
 
Alibaba is probably getting 20 requests for quotes from each of us on ES, not realizing we are all talking about one group buy. :roll:

I sent a request for quote in Monday, for 20 bare motors, and haven't heard back.

Sounds like someone in the middle of the US should volunteer to receive shipment, and distribute to the rest.

Any takers?

I would do it, but I'm in Seattle, so East Coast people would pay more, and I have had issues with Paypal/Alibaba/out-of-country orders, so I don't think I'm the guy on this one.
 
dnmun said:
molybdenum said:
Having just stripped the axle threads off of my HS3540 at 20 foot pounds torque, I'm eager to find out how strong the steel is in the MXUS 3000 axle. Nothing could be as soft as a clyte axle? :)

i had recommended a solution before. if you can find a threaded coupling of the same thread pitch and dimension to use for the axle nut it would spread out the force on the threads when torquing down the coupling so it should not shear the threads as easily.

i wonder if anyone ever looked into this and found a coupling of the correct size to implement this as a solution? it would allow someone to use the axle even after the threads adjacent the dropout were stripped.

multiple nuts don't offer the same fix imo since the force would still be concentrated on just the threads in the nut being torqued so it would still strip, but the force would be spread over 3-4 times the number of threads if the coupling was used to replace the shorter nut on the axle.

if someone finds the right coupling they should buy a bunch and resell them here.

Going back off topic a moment, couplers are almost always course pitch. I've found 14mm in 2.0 pitch, but nothing finer.

However, Lug nuts. They come in many different styles and with various amounts of thread inside. The ones I have now thread all the way to the end of the axle, and the tapered section actually helps with the cable exit, causing less chaffing.
for aluminum dropouts, I would turn these around backwards, but the small surface area end is fine for the hardened steel Doctorbass dropouts I'm using.

DSCF1017_zpsfacabf78.jpg


DSCF1018_zps817388e8.jpg
 
If there is a group buy for the MXUS 3000, + count me in :D I'd even volunteer to organize it but this is best done state side for customs/shipping reasons.

Even if I get my axle issues sorted out, having a backup motor (the clyte of course) can't possibly hurt since the ebike has become my principle mode of transport. I'd pick up a beefier controller at the same time (60A +) :twisted:

Drunkskunk +1 for the lug nuts; they are readily available and should give more bite where it counts. I'll be trying this first, though I don't have a whole lot of thread showing past my torque plates.

dnmum, I think the threaded coupling idea has merit; even if the first few threads bear 80% of the force, slight failure of these threads will transfer the tensile force further down the shaft, preventing complete thread failure. I'm just not sure were to get them, though they could easily be tooled. The lug nuts would work on the same principle and getting them with deeper thread would be an option.
 
I agree that someone mid-country would be best for the group buy.

I hate double shipping costs. In my case, being on the East Coast I am not a good candidate. I simply wrote them to get a ball park on costs-if they reply.

But if we order bare motors, how many of us who are not interested in building their own wheel are going to turn around and re-ship them out again to get it laced in a moped wheel? And then shipped back home?

JRH is making noises about getting back into wheel building again. I for one, would be interested in having mine shipped directly to him instead of the expensive round about of first shipping to me and then my turning around-after dutifully stroking it and drooling on it-and shipping it on to him.

Others?
 
If bare hub, I'd give a go at lacing my own. I need that kind of MAD skilz.
Almost tempted to get two and put one of them on a 20" BMX bike as well. That would be Friggin awesome. :twisted:
 
+1 for MAD skilz! I'd lace my own as well, though I could probably get it done at grin
 
molybdenum said:
dnmum, I think the threaded coupling idea has merit; even if the first few threads bear 80% of the force, slight failure of these threads will transfer the tensile force further down the shaft, preventing complete thread failure. I'm just not sure were to get them, though they could easily be tooled. The lug nuts would work on the same principle and getting them with deeper thread would be an option.

lug nuts are better quality and the threads match the axle threads better. the problem with the C'lyte is that the nut is so loose to begin with because it is poorly manufactured, cheap cheap is the word.

invert the lug nut so the flat face is against the torque arm and the conical part faces out, and then use the original nut behind it so you can lock the lug nut without having to over torque it to prevent it from walking out. i think my honda lug nuts work on the 9C but never checked.

but finding a metric coupling that would be the right length and thread pitch is still gonna be difficult.
 
teslanv said:
Just a heads up to those interested in a group buy on this motor...

We are potentially getting one set up on the Endless-Sphere Facebook thread.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/125035107565566/

If you are on facebook, and have not joined the ES sub-site, I highly recommend it.


Who is "we" and why are "we" not doing this directly on E-S so that E-S members can participate?
 
"We" being many of the members on this thread, who also communicate via the Endless-Sphere Facebook site. Rest assured, the offer will be posted here as well, once the details are confirmed. Feel free to join us on FB if you like in the mean time.
 
Two groups, one community. ES FB is not a replacement for the forums, just an alternate venue.
We've also been talking about this motor real heavily on there.
 
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