MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Found some more , hope the link works (translated).

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php%3Ftopic%3D22553.18&prev=/search%3Fq%3DMXUS%2B3000%26rlz%3D1C1OPRB_enAU521AU601%26espv%3D2%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D891
 
stevc said:
Found some more , hope the link works (translated).

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php%3Ftopic%3D22553.18&prev=/search%3Fq%3DMXUS%2B3000%26rlz%3D1C1OPRB_enAU521AU601%26espv%3D2%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D891

Am I the only one tickled by the idea that there are communities out there just like us but in different languages? It's like a bizarro world for ebikes...
 
I don't know if this was posted yet (I looked and didn't find), the Russian forum posted that the laminations were 0.50mm thick, and the phase wires were 13AWG 2.6mm (squared)

140-146mm dropouts?...I find it hard to believe the manufacturer wouldn't know the tolerance to within 6mm!

I believe these specs "might" refer to the available axle-shoulder drop-out widths range that is available. For example, the stock Cromotor has a 150mm D.O. width, but zombiess ordered a large batch with 145mm D.O. width. If you are buying a pallet full of them, there might be some customization that is available.
 
spinningmagnets said:
I don't know if this was posted yet (I looked and didn't find), the Russian forum posted that the laminations were 0.50mm thick, and the phase wires were 13AWG 2.6mm (squared)

140-146mm dropouts?...I find it hard to believe the manufacturer wouldn't know the tolerance to within 6mm!

I believe these specs "might" refer to the available axle-shoulder drop-out widths range that is available. For example, the stock Cromotor has a 150mm D.O. width, but zombiess ordered a large batch with 145mm D.O. width. If you are buying a pallet full of them, there might be some customization that is available.

You may be right but this begs the question of why a motor which e4bike clearly states was designed for 135mm dropouts is being manufactured between 141mm and 146mm.

So far, the specs on the new version look awesome and with a good quality axle, should blow away the clyte series in terms of quality and performance. Perhaps the manufacturing for 135mm dropouts is more difficult? For this motor to appeal to the vast majority of ebike enthusiasts, it must fit into a standard bicycle. It would be best to determine the axle metal quality and get assurances from the factory that they will have 135mm axles prior to ordering.
 
Ebikebert said:
I dont understand the rush.
I'm not feeling the need to wait. Because the lamination change prevents a large portion of heat generation in the first place.

If this motor in the very first post of this thread does 110 kph in that youtube video, I don't need to wait for a cast Ally stator and miss our impending Aussie summer. I'm sure the thermistor will tell me what I need to know.
stator1web.jpg
stator2web.jpg

If a clyte 4065 handles a stamped stator, its more than ok enough for me.
 
Samd said:
Ebikebert said:
I dont understand the rush.
I'm not feeling the need to wait. Because the lamination change prevents a large portion of heat generation in the first place.

If this motor in the very first post of this thread does 110 kph in that youtube video, I don't need to wait for a cast Ally stator and miss our impending Aussie summer. I'm sure the thermistor will tell me what I need to know.

View attachment 1

If a clyte 4065 handles a stamped stator, its more than ok enough for me.


Good point, I respect your position. Definantly enjoy your summer. :) I Just dont understand if you have the ability to wait is what i meant.
 
So here's my opinion on the waiting for the "next best thing" :
I used to geek out over the newest smart phones, always wanting whatever was rumored to be the next flagship of whatever company, and how cool of a processor it would have and what kind of video and high-resolution pictures it could take, and on and on, never satisfied with the phone I had, even though it was perfectly capable and useful for what I needed it to do. I would watch the tech websites for months reading about this rumor or that leak, and get my hopes up.
And then Apple released the iPhone 4 "S", and the only G-ddamn improvement was that the phone talked back to you. so I said "F-ck it. This is stupid." :x
 
I'm looking at the bolt on flat plates on both sides and thinking some laser cut replacements.

Maybe even a countoured heatsink plate for the stator.
 
Relanium said:
Well for me it's because I want to start my first ever ebike build, you know how exciting that is :)

Man, that's going to be quite a first ebike :D
 
Cromotor is not Made in Croatia..
it is designed and Assembled in Croatia from Chinese made/ sourced components..
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=57226#p858253

teslanv said:
Or just get a Cromotor??? Aren't they made in Croatia?
 
Kinda like how a Toyota or a Boeing 787 can be "Made in America"? :wink:

My point being that is would technically be "Shipped from Croatia" and thus not have to pay (as much?) import fees to the EU?
 
sacko said:
The wires are my only concern, but I am sure I can mod them myself.

Comparing the wind to a Crystalyte, is this closer to a 4080 than a 4065?
From my understanding its less than 4065 i.e less than 8.5rpm/v, the 4080 is 9.5 or above?. And 3525 is 6.5.
 
\/ampa said:
Do these motors have 13AWG phase wires as standard?

it seems so. and unfortunately there is no U-shape in the axle (like Cromotor has) but a hole, which makes upgrading almost not possible :(
 
I would like to suggest that the biggest difference between the Cromotor and this motor is the axle and stock phase wires. Clearly I have not used one of these, so take what I am about to say in the spirit in which it is given.

Although the Cro has a 50mm wide stator and this one has a 45mm, the V3 Cro has thinner laminations to avoid excessive eddy current heat (since some builders wanted to run 100V). Inductance on the Cro has also been improved on the V3. If you hit a pothole at 50-MPH, many forces are concentrated on the axle, and the Cro's axle is not only fatter, it is verified to be made from a very high quality of metal.

This MXUS 3000 is a bargain for anyone who wants to run it as a non-hub (where axle strength is not an issue), like a mid-mount longtail cargobike...or...the recently popular Motoped. Modifying the MXUS phase-wire recess in the axle to stuff-in the fattest wire possible may further weaken it. Just a thought...

edit: the V2 MXUS has thinner laminations and the aluminum cast stator-spokes (so its performance will be much more similar to the Cromotor). This motor is more affordable than the Cromotor, but specify the fattest phase wires they can use, plus always get a temp sensor.
 
I also recall one builder drilling the axle all the way through (he had a lathe), and he ran two very fat wires out one side, and one fat wire along with the several smaller wires out the other side.
 
spinningmagnets said:
I would like to suggest that the biggest difference between the Cromotor and this motor is the axle and stock phase wires. Clearly I have not used one of these, so take what I am about to say in the spirit in which it is given.
I actually think the biggest difference is the stamped vs solid stator.
If you're enthusiastic you'll be able to bake the windings on most motors before you melt the phase wires (unless they're really tiny)

A good example is the data I collected (the hard way!) at a recent EV race.
The H4080 is quite comparable to this new mxus motor with both being similar widths and having stamped stators.
The crown TC80 is near enough to identically wound, with the same 40mm stator but a solid cast stator.
Look at the difference below. The cast stator motor did 10 laps of a track under race conditions getting 12kw bursts and came out looking pristine. The H40 under the same conditions, even with drilled side covers ended up a crispy critter after only 7 laps, with the last few taking it easy.
So yeah, thinner lams for less heat in the first place is good, but either way if you go pushing big power into these things you're going to generate heat and that needs to go somewhere. And a nice fat cast stator is the best somewhere for it to go :) (an oil filled stamped stator motor would also work typically end up leaking)

file.php
 
She's given you the 1kw motor report there, check the date. It's the 28mm stator with 0.5mm lams.

They sent the same to me and were up front saying it was the best they had - haven't tested the new one yet due to interbike.
But apologised and said soon.

Not too long until I test my own!
 
Samd said:
She's given you the 1kw motor report there, check the date. It's the 28mm stator with 0.5mm lams.

They sent the same to me and were up front saying it was the best they had - haven't tested the new one yet due to interbike.
But apologised and said soon.

Not too long until I test my own!

Samd-when you receive yours could you confirm for us that it will fit a 135mm dropout?

Thanks
 
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