It's my understanding that the thinner laminations are most beneficial to builders that are running higher RPMs, due to the reduced eddy - current waste heat. There is also significantly reduced cogging, but that only affects DD hubs, since geared hubs freewheel.
Since all geared hubs have a poor heat-shedding path, the way to higher power is usually going to a lower Kv (higher turn-count), and then raising the volts, since the option of higher amps would cause more heat. Builders using 60V or 72V will likely find the extra cost to be worthwhile.
2000W when using 72V is 27A, and at 60V it is 33A...both are realistic amp-limits if caution is taken (add a temp probe). If you can keep the gears from getting hot, they can take more abuse.
I don't know of anyone that added ATF to a hubmotor, and didn't have an occasional drip on the ground, however...ATF is proven to work for capping the internal heat, by bridging the hot stator, and connecting it to the aluminum sideplates for much better heat-shedding.
A MAC will likely remain the best front motor for a hot rod 2WD system, since Doctor Bass posted that 2000W on the front wheel is a reasonable max to avoid excessive slippage. The rear motor could be another MAC, or a large DD hub
) and got up ok..hot but ok. A few weeks later I learnt more about motors but I've never known why he had his results... Till possibly now.
