wb9k
10 kW
John in CR said:Thanks for pointing that out, because humid salt air soaking into the paper never crossed my mind. I still have lots of cells with the paper wrappers. If I was building for marine use, which would you suggest, painting the paper, or duct tape (or similar) as extra insulation between each series level, or both?
I've seen these things get salty and gone looking for this issue and always come up empty, but I was told this risk was demonstrated in a lab well before my time. I believe it's one of the main reasons they went to the PET sleeve. I don't want to overstate the risk here because my experience has shown me it's pretty darn low, but you don't want salt crusting up on the aluminum cans no matter what is wrapped around them, so the issue transcends the wrapping material, IMO. For real marine use, you definitely want to keep splashes out. Salt will attack the cans. In severe cases, it could corrode through a can if given enough time.
I think what you did for the car battery is pretty good for making it splashproof. Salty splash isn't really a risk there anyway unless you're driving in a place that salts roads in the winter. Chemical splash, maybe from a car wash or some such. Anyway, the presence of salty sea air is enough to cause accelerated failures in automotive parts sometimes, even without splash. I'm sure you're aware of this and have thought about how to protect things. As far as separating cell groups in a pack, painting is an interesting idea, but I would stick with the kinds of things you would do with PET-wrapped cells--put a layer of Mylar or similar between them, or put a little physical space between them. Pay special attention to creepage distances on the negative terminal side. Negative weld strap-to-can clearances can get too small if there's a nick in the can's corner insulation. Be careful not to damage the plastic disc that surrounds the anode tab when disassembling and reassembling packs.
That should about cover it...I think...