My 54v60ah Cyclone TerraTrike Thread

reptilian

10 mW
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
27
Alright folks. I have decided to start a thread featuring the conversion of my TerraTrike Tour II to show off and get a bit of advice as well.
It's been one hell of a debacle to get all the parts together and get things rolling, but I am getting closer to having everything I need.

Here is the trike to be beefed:
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I have some major plans for this guy. I have I have a cyclone motor that I plan to put behind the seat and sandwiched by two battery boxes containing 3, 5s13p battery packs connected in series and then connected in parallel before entering the controller.
I haven't quite figured out how I am going to mount the motor just yet. I don't have the ability to weld, so that is out. I may just construct a box out of aluminum bolted together and mounted with some clamps.

There are chain pulleys in the back and I am planning to another one to rout the cyclone's chain to the bottom of the drivetrain hub.
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I ordered a single speed conversion kit to use on the freehub body. I am thinking I may just use two cogs on the drivetrain. One for peddle power and one for the motor. Maybe I will convert it tow a 3 speed shifter in the rear.
As for the battery box. I eventually want to make a complete back end including a trunk out of recycled HDPE plastics. That is going to take a lot more time than I really want to and I am getting more and more impatient to get this build together. I am thinking I will just shape a frame out of PVC and some cheap paneling till I can get the materials I want.
as for the battery, I am putting it together with vruzend's no solder kits. I made a cardboard template to get an idea of the space I had to use and then made a plan on the way the battery's needed to be arranged. Then I made a graphic with how the groups will be divided and connected.
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I was thinking I might use 16 gauge copper wire as bus bars and 2amp pico fuses soldered to them the positive ends of the cells
I plan on spraying the packs with an acrylic lacquer conformal coating and then wrapping it in craft foam.

Eventually, I want to also add a front fairing, canopy, complete light sets, and a stereo. I want to build a large, solar equipped trailer that can double as a camper. I want to also have a passenger trailer to use it as a pedicab, as well as a tandem trailer so me and a second person can take it on touring trips. I hope to have most of this done by September to take a 551 mile camping trip

I may make videos of all the processes I go through, but sometimes I would much rather just start doing things then setting up a camera and editing footage. If there are enough people interested, I would be willing to go through it all.

Cheers!
 
Battery packs are slowly coming together. When I was putting them together, I noticed that I made a few mistakes planning out the arrangement and fixed them.

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I have decided to use fuse wire in some sort of capacity instead of the 2amp pico fuses just for the sake
of simplicity. I am not quite sure what is the best way to do that though.
Would I want to connect all the parallel connections with fuse wires or do it with the series connections?
 
Some interesting information from a PM on fuse placement:

spinningmagnets said:
I think the best location for any fusing is on each individual cell.

The entire pack is limited on how many amps can be drawn from it by the BMS. For instance, if you use a 10A rated cell like the GA, a 4P group would be able to safely put out 40A without getting too hot. If the BMS is limited to 40A, then you can't ever draw more than 10A per cell.

However, during a situation where a shorted cell is overheating rapidly...it creates a situation where that single bad cell is analogous to a fat copper wire laid across its poles. The other P-groups will not be affected, but every cell in that 4P group will be dumping all their available amps through that one shorted cell with no BMS to limit the amps.

a 4P GA cell string is OK at 40A for an occasional peak, but when shorted it will likely provide over 100A for a few seconds before catching on fire.

If each cell is isolated from the P-group by a fuse, then one cell internally shorting will cut out that one cell...and then the 4P group will still operate as a 3P group. It might run warm, but no fire, except for the smoking shorted cell (which may yet catch on fire)

Rather than a pack fuse, I like the blue-sea breaker for the entire pack, find it here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=55235#p823087

Other than that, Tesla uses individual cell fuses, because they fear a car wreck will short some of the cells. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88039

I did want to create my own busbars and fuse each cell with 2amp pico fuses, but after I started to realize that it would be very complicated with my specific configuration after putting together my packs. The fuse wires would be part of the structural integrity of these packs with some of the ends. I will need to either use the included busbars to help hold the packs together or figure out another way keep the modules from separating.
I'm thinking maybe some really long zip ties going through the pack in areas where the structural integrity is questionable
 
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