My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

[dalysea]

Just plug the USB connector to the Integrated cable and it work well. It can be control by the Controller Display to on off the light.

Yep, exactly...

the final USB connection:





Press the button:





And let there be light...

 

[dalysea]

That light needs 2.5A for it’s specified brightness. The cable can only provide 0.5A if it’s the same as the BBSHD. I’m not saying it won’t work, just that it could be brighter. You might be better off with a DCDC converter (48V to 5V) wired to the 48V battery.

I purchased the Roxim X4 from Grin last night. About 10 times the price delivered (AUD) compared to what dalysea paid but it won’t blind oncoming traffic (StVZO) and I will be splicing it in to the the 48V battery supply as it can take up to 85V. I’ll post some photos when it arrives and I fit it. I’ll also show how I powered my 3V rear red light from the 48V battery.

Sounds awesome, that would be great to see photos and learn how you powered the light on the back.

One thing I like about this light is that you can point the side lights straight ahead or down toward the ground while the center light stays pointing forward. You can also choose 1) center light only; 2) side lights only; or 3) all 3 lights on.

I'm afraid the only light I have to compare it to is a $20 USD Blitzu Gator 390 (my lights have been stolen twice now so I go for cheap) . It's tough to take photos of lighting since the camera makes adjustments for the level of light. But you can sorta get the idea. The Deroace has a nice spread of light and you can see more of the road ahead and to the sides. The Blitzu seems a lot brighter, but it is focused at the road directly in front of you. My personal preference is the Deroace.

UPDATE: I read up on Straßenverkehrszulassungsordnung (StVZO) and realize my preference is wrong and could temporarily blind oncoming bikers, so I should definitely point my lights more at the ground directly in front of me.





Deroace(top) and Blitzu (bottom):

 

[Cruncher123]

That light needs 2.5A for it’s specified brightness. The cable can only provide 0.5A if it’s the same as the BBSHD. I’m not saying it won’t work, just that it could be brighter. You might be better off with a DCDC converter (48V to 5V) wired to the 48V battery.

I purchased the Roxim X4 from Grin last night. About 10 times the price delivered (AUD) compared to what dalysea paid but it won’t blind oncoming traffic (StVZO) and I will be splicing it in to the the 48V battery supply as it can take up to 85V. I’ll post some photos when it arrives and I fit it. I’ll also show how I powered my 3V rear red light from the 48V battery.

Great, look forward to see pics on how you do this and where you spliced in.

 

[Cruncher123]

I'm looking to install a Magura Vyron v2 2018 wireless dropper post (is faster-acting than original version). My concern is if there's enough insertion length to install the post - specs indicate I need 120mm inserted into the seat tube. Can someone please measure the seat tube to see if there is enough available non-constricted length?

Thanks!

 

[Hardcore]

I'm looking to install a Magura Vyron v2 2018 wireless dropper post (is faster-acting than original version). My concern is if there's enough insertion length to install the post - specs indicate I need 120mm inserted into the seat tube. Can someone please measure the seat tube to see if there is enough available non-constricted length?

Thanks!

I quickly tried and fitted my brand-X Ascend XL dropper 150 mm all the way so you can look up the numbers to compare.
Cheers

 

[Ivanovitch_k]

Can someone please measure the seat tube to see if there is enough available non-constricted length?

the straight part of the seat tube on the M-sized v2018 frame is 250mm, immediately after you've got an exit point for the dropper cable.

 

[Tecneek]

Yea, I dropped in a Fox Transfer 150mm, into a 31.6mm opening. The hardest part for me was fishing the cable out to the neck.

 

[FREYebikes]

We improved the screw cover for the bearing in black in better finish on surface as below:

 

[icehunter]

We might finally be getting somewhere with the internal gear transmission NuVinci N380x announced last year. They changed the name to Enviolo see http://www.enviolo.com/en/groupsets/sportive

They have a representative in China Fallbrook Trading Company, China (Shanghai) Asia, xzheng@fallbrooktech.com +86 21 51880352

 

[scrambler]

Great find !

I was wondering what was going on with that...

 

[romagjack]

Enviolo! This would be great, especially on a Frey M600 version.

 

[scrambler]

I want the AM1000 with it

 

[Cruncher123]

Can someone please measure the seat tube to see if there is enough available non-constricted length?

the straight part of the seat tube on the M-sized v2018 frame is 250mm, immediately after you've got an exit point for the dropper cable.

Thanks. Looks like plenty of room. I'm going wireless to avoid cable hassle and ease of swapping to another bike.

 

[sgillf]

Any Canadians/ Pacific Norther Westerners (Vancouver, Seattle, Portland) looking to join in on a shipping contain, let me know!

Canada

 

[Phife]

Any Canadians/ Pacific Norther Westerners (Vancouver, Seattle, Portland) looking to join in on a shipping contain, let me know!

Canada

Im in Kelowna, and I would be interested. I was quite surprised by the very high shipping costs. Count me in if we can save by group buying.

 

[Cruncher123]

Any Canadians/ Pacific Norther Westerners (Vancouver, Seattle, Portland) looking to join in on a shipping contain, let me know!

Canada

How many bikes in a container? And is Frey discounting for bulk purchases?

Surprised they haven't set up a local distribution agreement with someone.

 

[Tom L]

Bit of an update. New derailleur arm, replaced the shifter cable and hanger. Bought a suspension pump and adjusted the sag properly. All good. Frey are helping with the cost.

Bike rides very well. Lots of torque in low gear up very steep hills and plenty of speed on the flat. Had a little bit of surging on the flat when in one of the higher pas levels and a gear that was too low. Basically the motor would quickly spin up and then cut off at it's rpm limit, slow down then repeat. It sounds worse than it felt. It was quite minor and shifting up a gear or down in PAS level stopped it.

As for the lighting situation, it's going to be a bit more complicated than I expected. There is no room to pull the anderson power connectors out once the cover plate over the motor is removed from the frame. Looks like I am going to have to drop the motor out to get at the power cables. The motor to frame bolts are extremely tight and blue loctited. Going to need the heat gun and 1/2" socket drive set from work. I only have a 1/4 drive set here and that ain't going to cut it.

The lighting connection wires at the handlebar had no power when enabled by the display. I found the cable, jammed in above the motor, was disconnected. Plugged it in and as I suspected very little power is available (less than 100mA @ 6V). So I'm going to use this signal to switch the full battery voltage for my light. Just means finding an appropriate MOSFET (PSMN017-80PS looks like it will do the job). But getting the motor off is the first challenge. To be continued...

The mini DC-DC converter for my tail light has arrived (LM2596HVS from ebay - make sure it's the high voltage variant). A bit of nerve-racking Dremmelling and removal of the potentiometer (replaced with a fixed value resistor) and it all fits.

Imgur album here: https://imgur.com/a/9wK4dXk

 

[Ivanovitch_k]

There is no room to pull the anderson power connectors out once the cover plate over the motor is removed from the frame. Looks like I am going to have to drop the motor out to get at the power cables. The motor to frame bolts are extremely tight and blue loctited. Going to need the heat gun and 1/2" socket drive set from work. I only have a 1/4 drive set here and that ain't going to cut it.

They are just torqued quite hard, but not that much loctite'd.
I used a 40cm (16in) 1/2" ratchet and got them unscrewed really easy. However, be warned that once the nuts are unscrewed, you still need to punch at the bolts real hard to push them out. Plus, with the heat gun you risk cooking / melting the motor's seals..

The lighting connection wires at the handlebar had no power when enabled by the display. I found the cable, jammed in above the motor, was disconnected. Plugged it in and as I suspected very little power is available (less than 100mA @ 6V).

not normal. This should provide up to 500mA.

There is a second light connector, also 6V and also 500mA max (shared by both or not, I don't know...).

As to which connector, quoting myself from this thread:

Does someone knows the purpose & pinouts of the ultra's connectors ? [strike]Also, their make/model would be useful

[/strike] edit: found them, they are JST's JWPF series and are surprisingly IPX7 rated (i.e. no ingress for at least 30min under 1 meter of water) !

here is what I know so far, all viewed from motor-side.

• 8-pin white female: main EB-bus -> throttle, ebrakes, display uart & power (programming cable attach here)
• 2-pin blue male & female: lights connectors, 6 Vdc out, 3W max / 500mA (for both or per cable, unknown)
• 3-pin white female: speed sensor
• 3-pin white male: gear sensor ? to be confirmed
• 4-pin black female: ?

What I suppose the black one does is connection to compatible BMS over UART or CAN. The motor would forward the BMS data to the display in order to populate the detailed battery info page (on dpc18 at least)

If someone here knows the answer regarding the black connector, that'd be great !

 

[Mantsos]

"If someone here knows the answer regarding the black connector, that'd be great !"

Just ask that thing from the bafang? http://www.bafang-e.com/en/service/contact.html "Do you have any questions about our products, services or the company BAFANG? Simply contact us. Our service team will deal with your enquiry asap"

 

[Tom L]

It could have been entering some sort of protection mode because my light draws more than 500mA @6V. It's rated at 5.5W peak, so it was trying to pull nearly an amp.

Thanks for the warning about the motor seal. The heat gun I was talking about is for de-soldering SMT components so using a small nozzle I should be able to direct the heat exactly on the mounting nut. I wont go overboard, just enough to soften the loctite.

 

[Richard N]

Any Canadians/ Pacific Norther Westerners (Vancouver, Seattle, Portland) looking to join in on a shipping contain, let me know!

Canada

I'm in Victoria and very interested in a group purchase!

 

[LowkeeRider]

I am in Vancouver but I am waiting for the M600.

 

[18650]

As for Light You could order this one from Aliexpress or Amazon.
[]...
It can be control by the Controller Display to on off the light.

Is there a lights connector with permanent power, since the new EU regulation 168/2013 (type approval ) requires permanent light? And, is there a way to connect/implement "a brake light that lights up as soon as you start braking”?

 

[tommie]

[/quote]

Is there a lights connector with permanent power, since the new EU regulation 168/2013 (type approval ) requires permanent light? And, is there a way to connect/implement "a brake light that lights up as soon as you start braking”?
[/quote]

Isn`t that for motorcycles not ebikes??

 

[DaninSpain]

Hi guys

I messed up and managed to get oil on my rear disk and pads. Not being particularly knowledgable about MB's and their components, I didn't think it was too much of a big deal, that is until I started to read up about it on the web.

So it looks like I'll need to change my pads. Trouble is, I've never changed disk brake pads before and I've not been successful finding a how to video on the Magura MT5 brakes to help me out.

Can anyone offer any help / advice? A step by step would be really nice, or if anyone knows of a YouTube video for changing pads on the MT5, which incidentally is different to the MT7, can you post the link.

Sorry for being such a dumb-ass re bike maintenance