My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

[Marmalade]

29" hardtail ultra with a 52V battery...perfect commuter bike! Would draw some attention from the local constabulary with that thing

 

[kerim]

Can someone please post a video of the AM1000 in action. I can't find any YouTube videos of the bike being ridden, only assembled. About to pull the trigger. I do all mountain riding and am hard on my bikes. Want some confirmation it will hold up and rides well. Planning on the lyrik fork. Decided tprobably skip the EX1 in favor of the xt driveline.

I made a little video a while ago:

https://youtu.be/y2h4RrkNjgU

It is quite a capable bike. I can give you some more information if you want (phone or pm)

Cheers,

Kerim

 

[Marmalade]

Just an FYI...soooo much quieter with regrease!

 

[Hillhater]

Does anyone do stress analysis or stress tests on these new frames for integrated motors ?
The motor mount/bottom bracket area visually looks weak and flexible compared to a conventional diamond frame bottom bracket with 3 main tubes joining the bracket tube.
I would expect flexing possible cracking after a few months of off road use.
JMHO .!

 

[Richard N]

Does anyone do stress analysis or stress tests on these new frames for integrated motors ?
The motor mount/bottom bracket area visually looks weak and flexible compared to a conventional diamond frame bottom bracket with 3 main tubes joining the bracket tube.
I would expect flexing possible cracking after a few months of off road use.
JMHO .!

Just looking at the thickness and shape of the motor mount, it really dosen't look like it would flex much, if any. Especially once you bolt the motor into place which is pretty much turning the mount into a solid chunk of aluminum.

 

[Hardcore]

Does anyone do stress analysis or stress tests on these new frames for integrated motors ?
The motor mount/bottom bracket area visually looks weak and flexible compared to a conventional diamond frame bottom bracket with 3 main tubes joining the bracket tube.
I would expect flexing possible cracking after a few months of off road use.
JMHO .!

No problems after 5 months of off road (ab)use

 

[Ender2000]

Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone could give me the measurement of the frey battery from end to end. I have a different alibaba ultra max bike, and my battery pack is only 16.5 amps (48v). I am very interested in the 21ah battery for the increased range.

For reference, my battery runs approximately 457mm end-to-end.

 

[Ender2000]

P.S. Does the battery stick out on the sides or is it flush with the frame?

 

[kerim]

P.S. Does the battery stick out on the sides or is it flush with the frame?

Sticks out on the left

 

[Ivanovitch_k]

the 21Ah one does, the 17.5Ah 48V does not tho.

 

[Ender2000]

Does anyone else feel a bit of a lurch to one side when the motor is engaged?

 

[TOLM]

Does anyone else feel a bit of a lurch to one side when the motor is engaged?

Welcome to full suspension e-bikes (( rear triangle is moving. Effect is less pronounced with hardtails.

 

[Ender2000]

Does anyone else feel a bit of a lurch to one side when the motor is engaged?

Welcome to full suspension e-bikes (( rear triangle is moving. Effect is less pronounced with hardtails.

Ah, yes, I am new to this. I'm having some shifting issues and was wondering if this would be a contributing factor. I'm upgrading to an ex1 derailleur this week in hopes of less popcorn popping when I go outside of my middle gears.

 

[Hardcore]

I am adjusting my gears almost every (two) rides not to have them pop over. With this power, it just happens more easily

Have fun!

 

[Hardcore]

hi all, starting running higher pressures in the suspension but now the chain keeps on popping off. Anything to remedy this or...?

 

[TOLM]

Does anyone else feel a bit of a lurch to one side when the motor is engaged?

Welcome to full suspension e-bikes (( rear triangle is moving. Effect is less pronounced with hardtails.

Ah, yes, I am new to this. I'm having some shifting issues and was wondering if this would be a contributing factor. I'm upgrading to an ex1 derailleur this week in hopes of less popcorn popping when I go outside of my middle gears.

Popcorn popping sound sounds like a rear derailleur adjustment issue to me. There are two ways to proceed. Option 1. Go youtube and check the video on rear derailleur adjustment from Park Tool guy. It is like 16 min long and pretty good. You will learn how to use the h , l screws and the indexing thing. Option 2 is bike shop. Much easier but will cost you something.

 

[Ender2000]

Does anyone else feel a bit of a lurch to one side when the motor is engaged?

Welcome to full suspension e-bikes (( rear triangle is moving. Effect is less pronounced with hardtails.

Ah, yes, I am new to this. I'm having some shifting issues and was wondering if this would be a contributing factor. I'm upgrading to an ex1 derailleur this week in hopes of less popcorn popping when I go outside of my middle gears.

Popcorn popping sound sounds like a rear derailleur adjustment issue to me. There are two ways to proceed. Option 1. Go youtube and check the video on rear derailleur adjustment from Park Tool guy. It is like 16 min long and pretty good. You will learn how to use the h , l screws and the indexing thing. Option 2 is bike shop. Much easier but will cost you something.

I agree. I did watch a similar video, but I ultimately elected to have my $140 EX1 derailleur installed by the bike guy for $30. I wanted it to be done right on the initial setup, even if I have to adjust it later. So far, it's be an INCREDIBLE upgrade. I won't say definitively that all my shifting problems are gone, because I've been hesitant to really push the bike to its limits after recent issues, but after about 20 miles playing with up to level four on the low gears for off roading, no problems. Haven't tried for high speeds.

Incidentally, I might as well mention I elected to get the EX1 derailleur and shifter, but NOT the $350 cassette. I used a $29 sunrace cassette from shimano that is also 8 cogs, and the main difference (aside from alloy quality) is that it jumps from 11t to 40t in 8 gears as opposed to the EX1 cassette's 48t lowest. I admit that that's not quite as dramatic, but with the g510 I can climb pretty much anything I want to climb with that cassette and if I break it it's only 29 bucks to replace, which wouldn't make me scream and cuss like the SRAM.

Anyhow, it works really well with the EX1 system so far, so I thought I'd share my experience.

 

[barbarossa]

Welcome to full suspension e-bikes (( rear triangle is moving. Effect is less pronounced with hardtails.

Ah, yes, I am new to this. I'm having some shifting issues and was wondering if this would be a contributing factor. I'm upgrading to an ex1 derailleur this week in hopes of less popcorn popping when I go outside of my middle gears.

Popcorn popping sound sounds like a rear derailleur adjustment issue to me. There are two ways to proceed. Option 1. Go youtube and check the video on rear derailleur adjustment from Park Tool guy. It is like 16 min long and pretty good. You will learn how to use the h , l screws and the indexing thing. Option 2 is bike shop. Much easier but will cost you something.

I agree. I did watch a similar video, but I ultimately elected to have my $140 EX1 derailleur installed by the bike guy for $30. I wanted it to be done right on the initial setup, even if I have to adjust it later. So far, it's be an INCREDIBLE upgrade. I won't say definitively that all my shifting problems are gone, because I've been hesitant to really push the bike to its limits after recent issues, but after about 20 miles playing with up to level four on the low gears for off roading, no problems. Haven't tried for high speeds.

Incidentally, I might as well mention I elected to get the EX1 derailleur and shifter, but NOT the $350 cassette. I used a $29 sunrace cassette from shimano that is also 8 cogs, and the main difference (aside from alloy quality) is that it jumps from 11t to 40t in 8 gears as opposed to the EX1 cassette's 48t lowest. I admit that that's not quite as dramatic, but with the g510 I can climb pretty much anything I want to climb with that cassette and if I break it it's only 29 bucks to replace, which wouldn't make me scream and cuss like the SRAM.

Anyhow, it works really well with the EX1 system so far, so I thought I'd share my experience.

some reason for bad shifting might also be the shift cable set. my AM1000 had a 5mm housing (which is normally used for brakes) with silver steel caps. i changed it to Shimano MTB OT-SP41 housing and Jagwire Elite Ultra Slick cable. additionally my chain was a little too short. a little longer thats no problem but too short will result in bad shifting. for my am1000 i needed a long chain -standard 114 or 120 chains are too short - now i use a Shimano CN-HG701 138L with 138 chain links (and only a few chain links had to be put away) . now i have a perfect shifting - no problems anymore. i used shimano 11x 11-46t cassette with 44t original sprocket and now sram 11x 11-42t with a 49 sprocket.

 

[barbarossa]

Hi,
just want to share some more experience with my AM1000. After all i am very happy with my bike. most of the problems or issues are mentioned in the thread. and i knew what i would buy and i like DIY bikes . additionally i want to share an issue that might be very risky.
my bolts of rear suspension were too short (upper: 2mm / lower 2.5mm). you can remove the both right screws. or you can check it using an allen key and spin the left screws clockwise - there shouldnt be any noise and spinning should be smooth and without using much power (no side pressure).
but exactly this was not the case. so i removed the rear suspension.
for the upper bolt i could use a 2mm washer (6mm inner / 8mm outer diameter) because the bolt (65mm) was long enough to cover/fill the 2 inner rings of the ball bearings. Only to avoid side pressure i had to use an additional washer. bolt axle should move free without any pressure. optimal length would be around 67 mm, but i did not find that length and i did not want to shorten a longer bolt.
the lower bolt did not fill the ball bearing inner ring at the right side. bolt is appr. 39mm which is too short - i needed 41mm. so i now use a 44mm bolt with 3x DIN-1mm-gab washer. so i have exactly 41mm. the short bolt damaged the 2 ball bearings - right inner ring was split in 2 halves (but i did not recognize it - rear suspension did not made any noise and still worked) - left ball bearing was not spinning smooth anymore. i had to replace the 2 lower ball bearings (SKF 8x16x5mm 628/8-2RS1).
perhaps this issue might also damage the rear suspension attachment itself.
i have the rear suspension attachment in attached picture...

 

[G1Berg]

Can anyone offer any help / advice? A step by step would be really nice, or if anyone knows of a YouTube video for changing pads on the MT5, which incidentally is different to the MT7, can you post the link.

Sorry for being such a dumb-ass re bike maintenance

It's not rocket science luckily so even i manage to do it
Take the wheel off. Take a look at the calibers, press them full open so maximum space is available. The pads are connected by magnets so just press first one side and slide the pad down. Then another one with same method. I also tried to find video about it but couldn't find so had to just try. But it's really easy and quick job.

Thanks NataS
As it happens, I did exactly that earlier today and worked it out as I went along.
I removed the pads, cleaned with degreaser heated the up with a blowtorch to burn off the oil, then sanded them down repeated the whole thing. Took off the disk, soaked it petrol and gave it a good old scrub then refitted everything, looked down and found a washer
I couldn't work out from which side it came so I tried both and decided on the disk side.
The brakes were binding a bit, so I loosened the whole brake unit, applied the brake then tightened it. Hey presto no more binding (I'm sure all the experienced bikers are pissing themselves laughing at the newbie :lol: :lol: :lol: )
Tried it out and all back to normal.
It's actually not as complicated as I thought this bike maintenance :lol:

Thank you! That's very helpful.

 

[G1Berg]

I had to throw them away once.

 

[Cruncher123]

Nice and beefy. Like the internal cables. However, the battery integration could use some improvement - really noticeable in any color other than black.

 

[garyal1]

Looks nice as a good back woods bike. Can you offer with headlight and tail light both integrated with Bafang controller?

Of course specifications and pricing would be of interest!

What sizes available?

 

[Richard N]

I like them both, enough that I'm now asking myself if I want a fat bike or. . .

The HT1000 needs a rack, it has to be able to carry stuff. I'd really like to see one on some 27.5"+ wheels, Schwalbe 2.8" Super Moto-X for me, but whatever you have handy works.

Yes please, lets hear about the specs, are they similar to the AM1000? What fork is on the HT1000?

 

[E-geezer]

Since the ht1000 is the everything bike, it certainly needs rack and as many bottle cage mounts as possible for hauling things while commuting. Either 29 or 27+ wheel compatible too.

I'm not a big fan of internal cable routing, it looks clean, but can be a real pain to thread new housing.