My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped

maybe some people are interested in a group buy? i am from austria.
the VTC5 is awesome! still have to figure out if i truly can fit 12p 11s in each of my peli 1200 cases. 12p will fit, but im not sure if the 11s will do (width of the case). if they do not, i have to think of another configuration to stuck as many Wh as possible into these cases (without the lid). i do not want to go below 22s.
i think i can sell my batteries to other people. will do some more lower powered e-bike conversions this year for friends :)

edit:

VTC5

523-vs%20lg+samsung.jpg
 
cwah said:
What's best between vtc5 and 18650pf?

How much does it cost per cell for a group buy?

it depends on your needs and how much you are willing to pay. If you have more than 5A current per cell the VTC5 will offer more Wh because of the less voltage sag. For less current the Panasonic PF is the better choice.
The PF has a chemistry with Al that has proven to provide very high calendar life (i think tesla uses this PF cells in the model s car). The sonys are Mn cells.

I do not know how much costs will be per cell for a group buy. These cells are very new and hard to find.
 
Wicked cool build. :)

Did original poster managed to get his "moped" registered with the motor vehicles and get a plate on this thing?
I read an article http://www.electricbike.com/martin-cromotor/ and it said spring 2014 he would try that. Anyone knows the outcome?
 
Allex said:
Better make it electric all the way!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM-0xr2lGAY


Who wants to ride along a busy street sounding like a giant dildo? :lol: [/joke]
 
macribs said:
Wicked cool build. :)

Did original poster managed to get his "moped" registered with the motor vehicles and get a plate on this thing?
I read an article http://www.electricbike.com/martin-cromotor/ and it said spring 2014 he would try that. Anyone knows the outcome?

thx for your words. the registration is in progress but currently i do not have much time for this. maybe i get it with the end of august or september.
i did some upgrades on the bike the past month. to be exact:

- 17" MMP alu moped rims from JRH with butted moped spokes (the rear one has special spoke angle to fit big hub motors)
- 2,5" front and 2,75" rear Sava MC 11 tires
- custom carbon lids and custom hinges for the pelican cases (to make them narrower)
- put the steerer about 6cm further down (also the cover and the turn signals) for better riding comfort
- changed the seat tube to a variable one so i was able to move the seat further to the back for better riding comfort
- Foldylock bicycle lock now on the bike
- new 12A charger (kingpan kpc-1200) with some modifications

Now with the bigger wheels and the improved steerer and seat posistion the riding is much more comfortable. Also the narrower battery cases makes the bike more comfortable to ride.
The top speed on the flat is now about 80-85kmh (with Adaptto flux weakening "OVS 2"). its almost linear to wheel size about 10% more. Acceleration is a bit poorer but with more amps it is like before. of course now the motor does overheat faster.. Its noticeable compared to the 16" wheel setup.
 
I noticed a significant decrease in acceleration when I went from a Schwalbe Kojak to a Pirelli ML75, but that's in a 20"/16" rim, even smaller than yours. If you have a good torque arm you can really crank out the amps to compensate.

Don't know about you but I can't possibly overheat unless I'm riding uphill at 45+mph (where field weakening really kicks in for me) and i live in a pretty hilly city now! I guess constant start/stops with regen can warm it up too. But I've never been throttled back to less than ~5kw under actual use, which was admittedly abusive.

Conclusion: you're having more fun :)
 
Hi, there I noticed you went from Shinko tires to new ones. What are those tires and why the change?
 
ecruz said:
Hi, there I noticed you went from Shinko tires to new ones. What are those tires and why the change?

i went from 20" BMX rims to 17" Moped rims so i had to change also the tires ;) i never had shinko tires..
mainly i did change them because some of the nipples got loose and i was afraid they will tear through the rim when hitting a pothole or riding over manole covers.
Now it feels safe. The wheels do run very true (of course balancing necessary) and im happy with the Sava MC 11 tires - they have good traction on the street and i can do also some gently offroad riding with them.
 
Oh wow, it does not look like you are using 17' rims it looks normal. Not much height difference from a mtb wheel. I guess it is made up in rubber size.
 
What kind of reflector materials did you use on the fork? And what about that mini fairing? Custom job?
 
cal3thousand said:
And what about that mini fairing? Custom job?

Looks like a MX helmet visor with reliefs cut out for the lights.
 
xenodius said:
Don't know about you but I can't possibly overheat unless I'm riding uphill at 45+mph (where field weakening really kicks in for me) and i live in a pretty hilly city now! I guess constant start/stops with regen can warm it up too. But I've never been throttled back to less than ~5kw under actual use, which was admittedly abusive.

how much phase amps are you running and what are your other settings (ind timing, angle corr, pwr timing)?
regen does warm up the motor for sure. for example if i brake down ard from 80kmh i see an almost instant increase in temp about 5-10°C. imho this is quite a lot..
i have to reduce riding in boost mode without "acceleration delay" and 200A phase. if it would not be that much fun :)

Chalo said:
cal3thousand said:
And what about that mini fairing? Custom job?

Looks like a MX helmet visor with reliefs cut out for the lights.

yes it was a part of a mx helmet
 
further upgrades:

- steel spring damper:
its from a friends bike and i mainly did install it to have a comparison to my air damper. it is a bit shorter (about 15mm), but it was good for the geometry (flatter fork anlge). a bit less pedal ground clearance but still enough. the bike feels more comfortable with this damper and it handles a bit better the big unsprung motor mass. i noticed low tire pressure is what more helps to hold traction when using a heavy hub (in bumpy curves), but as we know this is less efficient. now i have 1,5-2bar in the tires and this works out well.
- front cover painted green

5i1gsX.jpg

0CRNrV.jpg
 
looking great maddin!
im currently shopping for tyres/rims for another build.
im keen to get 17"moto rims, but considering staying with 16" on the back to keep the motor more comfortable.
i really like the maxxis diamond 17" 70x90,

nicely done with the custom battery covers btw :D
 
thx ride
carbon is horrible to work with because all cutting tools (drill, sink bit, saw, file) will lose their sharpness very very fast. thats insane.
grinding it with sand paper works well and so i made a nice radi around the plates (they are 3,6mm thick).

so you are planning a street racer? :)
yeah the maxxis diamond do look good. i guess they are a bit heavy but i do not know how important weight is for you.
16" are better when climbing hills and during acceleration, but i never would go back to that smaller size. The riding is more comfortable with the 17" wheels and for me now this is more important than having a cooler motor. i would say it is a good balance between both. the other thing was the spoke anlge. The 17" holmes MMP hub rim offers perfect angle for big motors. on normal 16" moped rims the angle will not be that good..
 
ah yes the spoke angle . id forgotted about that.
so i guess different rims have different angles for different size hubs. id better check it out on the 17" alloy rims im looking at here in malaysia currently.
theyv got some nice bits and peices around here.

that sorts it then, ill just go with 17"front and back, and just make sure the temp probe is working well :D
 
i have bought it from a german shop (www.cycle-analyst.de) about one and a half year ago, but unfortunately its not available anymore.
its an Al sheet with a hammond box mounted below. it came without drill outs so i could decide myself how many switches etc i want to install.
i think ill keep it for another conversion but not sure what it will be.
 
thanks man :) joking car drivers or moped boys is the funniest thing :D
thanks to the small wheel and 22s battery the acceleration and hill climbing performance is very good. last weekend i drove up a mountain (5km long, 340m alevation gain) with some very long 12% grades and the speed stayed always above 75kmh (OVS 3). the car in front of me was not that fast. power consumption at the grades was around 7-8kw continuous and motor temp rise was about 40-50°C which is not bad.

what function you want to have on the poti you can choose in the CA-V3 menu. for example speed limit, power limit, % PAS assistance, different presets etc..
 
Thanks!
Yup I agree with you very funny when looking faces how fast you has been passing them at high speed :lol:

Any pictures of your current status of your build?
Especially the kickstand mount 8)
 
here one pic where you can see how the stand is mounted:

fyjw.jpg


its a Al angular profile 8 or 10mm thick. i know the threads for the two upper bolts are not optimal, but i had no other idea.

for the registration inspection i need an automatic kickstand so i placed an order for a "REX auto center" from atranvelo. though its out of stock until december or so..
 
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