My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped

[madin88]

-please send the type of the 20" BMX rim GS....
-please send the lenght of the spokes
-12ga is 2,05mm is this right? I think not, or?
-the nippels are 4,0mm diameter and you drill the rim with 5mm?

- the rim is called Ribcage by manufacturer Gsport. This is no cheap crap.
- spokes are 12ga sapim from holmeshobbies and are 97mm long. 2-3mm shorter would also had been enough but easier to lace (had to bend them a lot to get them in the holes).
- 12ga is normally 2,6mm
- nipples have 4,6mm body and yes i used 5mm drill

 

[ecross]

-please send the type of the 20" BMX rim GS....
-please send the lenght of the spokes
-12ga is 2,05mm is this right? I think not, or?
-the nippels are 4,0mm diameter and you drill the rim with 5mm?

- the rim is called Ribcage by manufacturer Gsport. This is no cheap crap.
- spokes are 12ga sapim from holmeshobbies and are 97mm long. 2-3mm shorter would also had been enough but easier to lace (had to bend them a lot to get them in the holes).
- 12ga is normally 2,6mm
- nipples have 4,6mm body and yes i used 5mm drill

- many thanks for the numbers

-I use also high prized stuff because for +3000kw you need good stuff for long life
-will test the great rim because I want to drive now a one crossed version
-I use hand made spokes with Niro 2,34/2,0 ED but I will test your 12ga sapim spokes
-thanks for your tip to use 94 - 95mm long spokes
-could you take a macro pic from the rim side, is the screw thread from the spokes free?
-12ga is 2,6mm ok
-I will use a 5mm drill and open the 36 hols with my hand power tool in the right angel
-not easy work and will take much time and concentrate

 

[madin88]

@ ecross

at the first side i have posted some pics you should see that the thread of the spokes is not free. Thats why i said 2mm shorter ones would also had been ok.
I cannot say if 12ga spokes are better than 13/14 ga butted, but after about 200km i cannot see any problems. As far as i know thinner / butted spokes have more "spring effect" and maybe are the better choice for heavy hubs in fragile bicycle rims, but the opinions are here deeply devided.
Big spokes with properly tension in strong moped rims will probably last longer than the bike but are a lot heavier..

Now lets see how my rim looks like after a few more km

do you know this thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55017 ?

there is a good vid from Dlogic how to drill rims

 

[madin88]

E-bike masterswitch with power supply and charging plug finished. Big THX to Alan B. and Richard Fechter for the nice circuit and help with parts.
The switch connects main battery to controller and also power supply. I decided to take four IRFP4468pbf FET's without heat sink because the big 6mm² wires will carry away enough heat i think.
It should handle about 100A continuos and some more amps peak.
In the hammond alu box i have also installed 4 pieces 470µF 100V ultra low esr caps. They should help a little to prevent the controller from large voltage spikes.
Capacitor pre-charging time (turn on delay) is about 1sec. The power supply is 12V 2A rated and idle consumption is only a few mA. Charge plug is XLR and rated to 16A. I very like this connectors.
The keyswitch is placed in the original housing of the power supply and fits nice to the bike The box should be water resistant like IP65 protection class. Just still for the case if humidity gets in, i placed in there some silica gel bags.

some pics:

 

[madin88]

motor hall wires & thermistor connector soldering:

7mm antispark bullets (rated for 180/300A):

 

[samsavvas]

Hi Madin,

Hope the project continues to go well. Can I ask a couple of questions please? I'm interested in some of your ideas for my own much more modest cargo bike project. What are the 2 controls on your original instrument panel (the one below the CA)? Also, with your master-switch circuit, which of Fechter's designs did you use and how did you add in the large caps? I'll only be using 36 and 48V so they may bot be necessary, but I thought I'd ask anyway.

regards,
Savvas.

 

[madin88]

Hi Madin,

Hope the project continues to go well. Can I ask a couple of questions please? I'm interested in some of your ideas for my own much more modest cargo bike project. What are the 2 controls on your original instrument panel (the one below the CA)? Also, with your master-switch circuit, which of Fechter's designs did you use and how did you add in the large caps? I'll only be using 36 and 48V so they may bot be necessary, but I thought I'd ask anyway.

regards,
Savvas.

The only remaining thing i have to make is the variable e-brake lever with integrated switch for brake light (the motorcycle rearlight on my bike does have brake light function and also lights for number plate). I now have some problems with the Adaptto system and variable e-brake. Throttle and brake interfere among each other and it doesn't work as it should. I stay in contact with manufacturer and i hope there is a way to fix it. I dont know if it is a wire problem or software issue.

to your questions:

the switch on the control panel is to turn on the controller ignition (and green LED). This switch is connect in series with the keyswitch which i have to turn on before. The keyswitch is to turn on power supply (lights etc) and also CA. The pot is to set for example speed limit, current limit etc. in the CA.This is nice i if you need fast access to speed limit for example when cops control you

The "extention" i bought from a german CA dealer, but it seems its no longer available there..

The turn on/pre-charge circuit is Richard Fechter V3: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40142&start=175#p732431
1M ohm R1 and 1µF results in 1sec turn on delay. Turn off is instant. You need a 3-wire Keyswitch.
The large caps are on the drain side of the Fets and about 20cm away from the controller. They should help a bit if large currents are set up.
Adaptto suggest to do this if you going to push the controller to the very limits. I don't know how much they really help but i think more caps are always better than less

 

[cwah]

nice

 

[Allex]

Do you run your ligt from main battery.
I need a dc dc converter fo my magicshine 86v>8.4v what kind of coverter do you use? Seems impossble to get one...

 

[izeman]

Do you run your ligt from main battery.
I need a dc dc converter fo my magicshine 86v>8.4v what kind of coverter do you use? Seems impossble to get one...

that's an easy one: look for a 9v mains power supply (110-240v AC) capable of 2a. most of them run fine on 80v DC.
something like this (took the first one i found on ebay) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Supply-AC-Adapter-Charger-for-Android-Tablet-PC-MID-eReader-9V-2A-3-5mm-B-/350906653361?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item51b3aa9ab1

 

[Allex]

Aha! So you CAN use a regular AC power supply, thx a bunch!

 

[madin88]

Aha! So you CAN use a regular AC power supply, thx a bunch!

yap
the 12V 2A supply i have worked down to about 60V DC

btw: don't use this AS150 antispark bullets for high voltage/capacitance. Mine only worked one time and than the resistor blow up.
anyway i think i will stay with them, because i have the keyswitch and precharge circuit. I only installed them just in case if the precharge circuit break down to be able to direct plug the controller to battery. now i cannot do this..

more infos: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=54138#p834459

 

[trevc2]

If you need more juice, checkout the DC-DC stepdown converters commonly listed on Ebay and Aliexpress:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-put-72v-output-12v-20a-electric-bicycle-refires-dc-to-dc-converter/720060326.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/48v-60v-72v-to-12V-20A-motor-GOLF-car-bus-ebike-step-down-power-converter-240w/1356577768.html

You can find some fairly hefty ones for up to 30A+ output at 12-14V. They're most commonly used on fancy Golf Carts to power the stereo and other accessories.

 

[ridethelightning]

uh oh. looks like the fancy anti spark bullets aint so fancy... iv just ordered some

what sort of voltage did you blow them with?

please keep posting any advances with your adappto ebrake problems.
i hope you get them ironed out ok.

 

[Allex]

If you need more juice, checkout the DC-DC stepdown converters commonly listed on Ebay and Aliexpress:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-put-72v-output-12v-20a-electric-bicycle-refires-dc-to-dc-converter/720060326.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/48v-60v-72v-to-12V-20A-motor-GOLF-car-bus-ebike-step-down-power-converter-240w/1356577768.html

You can find some fairly hefty ones for up to 30A+ output at 12-14V. They're most commonly used on fancy Golf Carts to power the stereo and other accessories.

Humm those are way to bulky, and I need 8.4 volt, 9V tops. The light drains around 2A.
The light came with a charger 8.5V 2A maybe I can connect it directly to the light?

 

[trevc2]

If you need more juice, checkout the DC-DC stepdown converters commonly listed on Ebay and Aliexpress:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-put-72v-output-12v-20a-electric-bicycle-refires-dc-to-dc-converter/720060326.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/48v-60v-72v-to-12V-20A-motor-GOLF-car-bus-ebike-step-down-power-converter-240w/1356577768.html

You can find some fairly hefty ones for up to 30A+ output at 12-14V. They're most commonly used on fancy Golf Carts to power the stereo and other accessories.

Humm those are way to bulky, and I need 8.4 volt, 9V tops. The light drains around 2A.
The light came with a charger 8.5V 2A maybe I can connect it directly to the light?

There's 5A and 10A ones too, they keep getting smaller in output and size.

 

[madin88]

Humm those are way to bulky, and I need 8.4 volt, 9V tops. The light drains around 2A.
The light came with a charger 8.5V 2A maybe I can connect it directly to the light?

so your lite does have a battery inside? do you have link?

In my lights i took out the electronic board and built in a CCS (constant current source). 1A low beam, 2A high beam. Input voltage of these CCS is about 9-35volts.
The 1A fit inside the lamp. The 2A one i put in extra case.

 

[Allex]

I have this one, MJ-872:
http://www.light-test.info/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=103:magicshine-mj870-mj872-cree-xp-g&catid=34:rowerowe&Itemid=55&lang=en

 

[trevc2]

I have this one, MJ-872:
http://www.light-test.info/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=103:magicshine-mj870-mj872-cree-xp-g&catid=34:rowerowe&Itemid=55&lang=en

The problem with these bike LED lights is that I've yet to see one that reduces the high-beam style glare they project at other drivers. That high-beam glare coupled with higher output makes them a very effective tool for pissing off people driving heavier vehicles at night. I was considering using a small DOT-certified motorcycle light for this reason.

 

[Allex]

Yes, this is true. More and more people use these kind of light and more people are pissed off. So I think the makers will change the design of the beam pattern.

 

[izeman]

i use a special lens and put the light down to light the street. i think the blinding effect is reduced to a minimum.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46869&p=686136&hilit=sliced#p686116

 

[trevc2]

i use a special lens and put the light down to light the street. i think the blinding effect is reduced to a minimum.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46869&p=686136&hilit=sliced#p686116

Very handy! Thanks for the link.

 

[izeman]

The light came with a charger 8.5V 2A maybe I can connect it directly to the light?

sure. this should work. as long as the CC converter for the led is inside the light case, and not inside the battery case. normally those buck drivers are installed in the case behind the led. then a 2wire goes to the battery. though you can't say what the driver is able to handle. some have a wide voltage input, some don't.

 

[madin88]

i use a special lens and put the light down to light the street. i think the blinding effect is reduced to a minimum.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46869&p=686136&hilit=sliced#p686116

yeah, put the light down to the street is a good solution. I also have this wide angle lens like yuo have (double on low, single on high beam).
with this lens and my cree xm-l led driven at 1A i would say its about the same blinding effect as normal motorcycle out there. For faster riding on roads outer city / traffic i have additional high beam light.

The problem with these bike LED lights is that I've yet to see one that reduces the high-beam style glare they project at other drivers. That high-beam glare coupled with higher output makes them a very effective tool for pissing off people driving heavier vehicles at night. I was considering using a small DOT-certified motorcycle light for this reason.

is this DOT certified light a LED or normal halogen?
I need DOT numbers to get a TÜV certificate for my bike

 

[Allex]

Thx you all it worked with a regular adapter!
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&p=834709#p834709