My longboard build thread...

It was mostly cosmetics. I am building an aluminium case for the batteries and wanted to integrate charging points. The xt90 looks ok for the on/off, but wanted to use the barrel one to be in keeping with it all, rather than bright yellow sockets all over the place. I think it is quite cool to have a yellow emergency off, but not to charge if I can help it. As there will be no current from the charger until I have already plugged it in and I charge at 5a only, I was hoping it will be ok, but as usual I have no electrical knowledge.

Good, bad, or fire?
 
This is what I'm trying to achieve. I like the style, except I may opt for one of Torqueboards switches when cash allows.

This is a cosmetic mock up, the wiring internally is not soldered. This is why o wanted to use that plug. Ideas?

image.jpg1_zpshscisb81.jpg


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Getting there....

3.5 and 2.5" hdd cases. One for a rechargeable battery pack and one for the esc, which when I redid the capacitor, I removed and moved bits to flatten it to fit.

The Reciever will be moved and fitted into the esc case if room. both cases fit together with plugs.

I MAY have to make a custom charge plug from bullet plugs, epoxy And heat shrink tubing, but have a plan in my head for that.

Zero electrical knowledge and help from here. Proud of myself so far....

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Looking good! Ingenious use of the HDD cases.

Perhaps not an issue, but I would possibly rotate the rear case 90* if it fits and also move the battery box forward closer to the front truck. Gives you a gap in the middle to clear things like curbs/speedbumps without high centering? Will need a slightly longer bit of power cable obviously, but otherwise should work fine.

If you wire up the battery box and test charging it i'd just watch it really closely and look for heat on that connector. Not super scientific... but being outside of it's specified voltage i'd play it safe until you are confident it'll work for you.

Keep it up - great work so far!
 
Not worried about curb clearance. I'm 38 and not a stuntman, I also think that pavement to road transition should involve me stopping/slowing for cars. It is more about protecting the fiery death packs that are so dangerously near my feet and ready to blow at any second :D

Just seen its not legal to ride these in he UK. (I think, can't see anything concrete but it seems that way)

I may carbon look vinyl wrap them to add stealth now, but guessing the heat dissipation will be lost a bit.
 
LOL! Who knew they made lipos with Nitroglycerin?

Instead of wrapping them, perhaps simple spray paint black? Still will conduct heat and likely better than vinyl wrapped. If you have time to powdercoat or anodize - those would work even better i bet.
 
Guys, problems.

Thought the belt had stretched, but today I see the motor is coming loose. Can't describe in words, so a picture will have to do. It is like the motor is loose from the rotor and can be wiggled sideways. Doesn't affect use, but I am worried if it's unchecked, it will eventually come apart. Can I do maintenance, or is it a sealed unit?

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Sorry, I thought the name was the same in english ... but it smay be very french :

Here is a circlip :
Circlip.jpg


It is used to prevent an axe to go beyond a given position :
http://www.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/129373/538772.jpg
 
I don't know how your motor is built but on mine, the circlip is outside and visible without having to open anything.
l am quite newbie in those questions so better have advices from more advanced builders before tearing your motors apart :)
 
"sideways" would be a problem. Inline with the shaft i'd guess the circlip, but sideways (up and down relative to the ground/deck) would be bearings i'm guessing. Not sure if those are serviceable. Hopefully. I know that over tensioning the belt can wear out the bearings around the axle.

GL!
 
3 Allen bolts in the head part loose. Screwlocked and all seems ok.

Want to try to dismantle the controller now to make it smaller. Anyone done this?
 
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