My solar-assisted custom tricycle FOLLIES

[amberwolf]

Thanks AW. I have some of those strips somewhere but I prefer single point lights for brake/directionals.

Keep in mind that the smaller the surface area of your lights, regardless of brightness, the less likely it is they will be noticed, at least by most people because they ahve been "trained" to look for large ones on cars/trucks/etc. The bigger they are, the easier they are to see becuase of this.

When i used to use even very bright single point headlights, cars did not necessarily notice me and would pull out in front of me out of driveways, etc.

After starting to make and use large-surface area lights that gave at least a "hand-sized" area of lighted surface, even if it was just diffuse like the backlights for slide/negative scanners on computers, there was a lot less of that, even on the same bike (DayGlo Avenger, primarily).

Using an actual car headlight, it almost never happens.



Similarly, the turn signals and/or tail/brake lights also are more likely to be seen/paid attention to if they are more like that on cars, a large surface area, rather than just a bright pinpoint.

I mainly need brake lights to keep my wife, who likes to ride behind me, from crashing into my bike.

If that is the only reason for your lights, then as long as they work, it doesn't matter. but if you want them to help in traffic / with large vehicles, you want to use lights the size of what they are "trained" to look for, which are all quite large in area, even if they are dim, and preferably at about the same height off ground, which is typically anwyhere from hip-height to shoulder-height, depending on vehicle size.


This is what I have been working towards, as my bikes and lighting evolve from experiments (intended or not) and observations of traffic reactions to me and other non-standard vehicles under the same conditions.

 

[docnjoj]

Luckily I can ride in closed to vehicles places like bike paths. If I tried to ride in traffic of a big city, I'd be dead in minutes. I do agree about the surface area thing, except many newer cars use strips of bright leds as daytime warning lights. They seem to work. Cars like Lexus and BMW have these under the regular lights.

I think DDK is on to something good.
otherDoc

 

[whatever]

disco pope velomobile?

 

[The fingers]

Daytime Running Lights/DRL are becoming more popular on bicycles as well as cars. :wink:

 

[ddk]

Heh...
Yep, attention whore.
I haz an excuse

Due to the nature of the work I did, I probably traveled over 3 million miles (4820000 km)
on roads alone. I'd like to say I avoided mishaps during this period of my life but that would have been statistically impossible.
I participated in 10 large vehicle vs same accidents, 3 motorcycle vs car/truck run-ins and 3 bicycle/tricycle vs car/truck/SUV crashes, or squishes as a better description.
Needless to say, I've become somewhat leery of travel in any form.
This learned response is one of the deciding factors in the final form of MPPM, or if you will, M P(ersonal) D(isco) P(ope) M(obile) MPDPM {snickers}
The other deciding factor for the shape of MPDPM being: Luckily for all the other participants of these accidental smashups, no one was seriously injured... except me.

Anything that can divert the attention of those other vehicle operators busy texting/checking e-mail/nails/hair/picking noses/ears/teeth to my included existence in their world is my ultimate objective.
Weird/unusual lights help, as does the height and shape of MPDPM and, since it's sheathed in transparent material, it's fairly obvious to the (hopefully) diverted I'm seriously pedaling and not just being taken for a ride.

 

[ddk]

Houston...


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[ddk]

fuc*ing firefox sux

 

[ddk]

new door. no window because, rainy days already
...maybe later

 

[ddk]

just noticed the previous page of stuff LOL

If you're interested, I added more light to my own trike last night:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1091580#p1091580

with another aquatics lightbar.

Not as nifty or interesting as the strips you're using; can't change colro or sequence...but it's bright and lights up the trike pretty well, even without any other lights on. Not cheap unless like me you get one on deep clearance plus employee discount. (but they only had the one. )

I like it!
I like mine better-er because they're more visible without being blinding bright.
The changing colors gets drivers attention. Initially I worried about upsetting drivers. Instead 'that' finger they regularly slow down and give me a thumb- pointed up!
If you ever get a couple of bucks available, the RGB strip lights with controller sell for as little as $8 on-line. The single-color strips are about the same cost (odd, that).
I'm actually disappointed in the chase lights as turn signals. The amber color is so poorly programmed that I'm forced to use red.

Hey DDK! Is that controller the one that came with the trike?
otherDoc

That's the color-chase controller. It uses 4 bright red alphanumeric leds that indicate speed and current program, so I mounted it on the interior front corner of the roof to avoid distractions.
Eventually I might try my hand at hacking my own version of a controller (but I'm ultimately lazy about stuff like that in my retired state)

 

[amberwolf]

If you ever get a couple of bucks available, the RGB strip lights with controller sell for as little as $8 on-line.

Unfortunately I can't use those here, unless the controller has a lockout for any color other than red thru amber for the rear, and amber thru white for the front.

No other colors are legal here, and there've been some regular bicycles with "christmas lights" that've been stopped and harassed by police in various cities in the valley. Don't recall if any were ticketed, but they made some of them take off the multicolor lights. One example I posted about was here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8482&p=640920

Others have (AFAIK) never been bothered by anyone about it. I haven't seen any difference in how they ride or where they ride, to cause the difference in treatment, so it's probably more up to which officer runs across them and how badly their day has been going to make them want to waste their time on something as trivial as this. :/


There are also cars and motorcycles and such with "underlighting" shining on the ground only, where the actual lights are not directly visible, that are in just about every color I can imagine, but usually purple or green, on occasion blue, some of which I've seen around for years. I expect the main reason they "get away with it" was that the lights are not directly visible, and there isn't anything in the law about it (that I've found, anyway).

That's the principle I use my white downlighting on, though I'm still careful to ensure the white lights themselves point more forward so they cannot be seen from the rear (though of course the scattered reflected light off the road and vehicle can be, just as that from a license plate light can).


Since there's no way to know when or if I'd get picked on for not having "road legal" lighting, it's much safer to just use colors/etc that are defined as legal. (with my downlighting pushing that, but making the bike/trike much more visible and unlikely to be seen as a problematic lighting).

The single-color strips are about the same cost (odd, that).
I'm actually disappointed in the chase lights as turn signals. The amber color is so poorly programmed that I'm forced to use red.

That's a shame--what's wrong with the amber color? Would the sequential stuff work using the single-color light strips? Cuz that's what I'd probably end up using myself.


Oh, and is there any way on the controller to input a signal to it to turn lights a different color with just a momentary switch (automatically changing back to what it was before)?

I ask because if I could do that, I could use a single set of RGB strip lights, and have it change from a red taillight to a bright red brake light, or to an amber turn signal, or to a white "back up light", in response to my handlebar switch controls.

I doubt it works like that...but it would be neat if it could.

Probably would have to have separate ones like I do now.

 

[ddk]

...
That's a shame--what's wrong with the amber color? Would the sequential stuff work using the single-color light strips? Cuz that's what I'd probably end up using myself.

Oh, and is there any way on the controller to input a signal to it to turn lights a different color with just a momentary switch (automatically changing back to what it was before)?

The chase lights have a serial shift register between every third led. The pre-programmed controller will do what you ask for but it only "steps" between programs one step at a time, which is why I referred to having to hack my own controller to address the shift registers via single switches per function.
What was supposed to be Amber is purple-ish, which might be the fault of the strip I received.

I ask because if I could do that, I could use a single set of RGB strip lights, and have it change from a red taillight to a bright red brake light, or to an amber turn signal, or to a white "back up light", in response to my handlebar switch controls.

I doubt it works like that...but it would be neat if it could.

Probably would have to have separate ones like I do now.

They don't easily change settings unfortunately. I hacked a brake light by using two pieces of strip, driving the second strip at a higher voltage.

You can separate both the chase and non-chase led strips every third led (it's quite obvious where) so one piece of strip which is 15.3' long can be cut up into several (or many) shorter runs.
RGB strips require a color controller ($4-$8 depending on number of programs) or three pots controlling linear voltage regulators (think: LM317 x 3 and the circuit config that lowers to below 0.6-V)
Using three 317's was how I was able to make the color 'brown' which I found to be... silly. and almost impossible to hold steady. (very twitchy)
A full strip uses 2A per color (6A to make white with the RGB strip)

 

[ddk]

poorly translated datasheet pdf about the 6803 serial shift device::
http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/LPD6803.pdf

 

[amberwolf]

What was supposed to be Amber is purple-ish, which might be the fault of the strip I received.

Maybe if you set it to be lavender it'll show amber? :lol:

RGB strips require a color controller ($4-$8 depending on number of programs) or three pots controlling linear voltage regulators (think: LM317 x 3 and the circuit config that lowers to below 0.6-V)

Ah! Then I could do it with switches--it'd just be a little more complex. I'd need to setup the regulators so that the controlling resistor was on a switch, probably something like the ULN2006(? been years so I don't remember the actual p/n). Then I could switch in or out different resistors by teh "mode" switch controls on the handlebars, automaticlaly switching in higher brightness red (turning on extra strips too, perhaps) for brake, switching out the red for amber during turn signals, etc.

Probably somethign simpler I could do, too, but that would work, without using the controller itself.

 

[ddk]

the door weighs as much as my last non-e-bike.
Why?
The first door got totaled by a wind gust
Did I mention it gets a bit windy where I live?
Like, really really windy?

also this:
cost of raw materials sux for the diy-er
Materials for the door (including shipping costs) was well over $300 ...accumulating bits and pieces over the last couple of years (as to not depress myself)
-didn't work.

 

[Lebowski]

you mean more windy than this ?

[youtube]U6QtxJNhiog[/youtube]

 

[ddk]

you mean more windy than this ?

...

:lol:
maybe like that or worse
I could recount many anecdotes of my storm experiences along the coast of Oregon
...but I won't.
Instead I'll talk about having to deal with purchasing batteries from HK through paymepal.
It took 2 days of phone calls to pmp to get them to take my money.

Supposedly 8 each 6S 16Ah batteries will soon be installed in 2 of my battery cases.
This will keep me going...
...and going
Like the little energizer bunny

 

[ddk]

...and not a moment too soon. Lost 1 cell in another 3 batteries this weekend.
I should have the connectors I need to re-wire in a couple of days time.
There's another 4 of these green things still in their shipping carton for another battery case rebuild.
I'm thinking now I'll only do one additional battery case with 4 each 6s 16Ah and rebuild two cases of 7S using 4S 16 Ah x2 and 3S 8Ah x4 (or 3S 5Ah x6)

...who wants my used batteries? Getting a large stack of these things :lol:

 

[ddk]

troubleshotting someones' e-trike reminds me that I really dislike anderson connectors.
(which was the problem- intermittent connection from someones' bad crimp work)

...and unrelated pics from where I live.

 

[ddk]

I bought xt90 connectors thru amazon for about the same price as HK... apparently they won't be in my hands 'til Monday.
...so I post random pictures

 

[ddk]

wall-o-text summery-o-stuff

It's been 5 years since I started this quest of building a (legal) ebike (trike) that suited my local environment. Never convinced a single motor could handle the job without melting, I experimented with multiple motors driving the same wheel to multiple
motors driving front and rear wheels.

...along the way I discovered:
-Tiny mxus geared motors last for about 40000km before gear failure.
-Huge DD motors have yet to fail, but I''ve yet to exceed 40000 km use.
-No matter how I hooked up R/C LiCo (also known as LiPo) batteries, they
almost universally loose capacity within the first few weeks of operation,
stabalize and maintain that capacity during all but the final few months
of their life-cycles. Detailed operation boils down to: under charging, under
discharging, capacity exceeding C-discharge requirements by a minimum factor of 2.

The batteries are randomly failing after four years continuous use.
noted: this is about the same life I get from lead-acid traction batteries (thick plate deep disharge types) except: LiPo batteries are smaller, lighter, High C rates = less overall capacity needed for the same purpose, much easier to charge, no significant self-discharge and a lots more things I've forgotten about. LiPo wins for transportation devices. They cost 4x that of equivalent (huge, heavy) lead-acid. The lead-acid batteries supplied with e-bikes won't stand up to heavy use because their c-rate is exceeded by a factor of more than 2 i.e equivalent lead-acid battery capacity would have to be a couple of hundred amps to get 4 years continuous use with a 1000W e-bike. Bottom line: cost is the same for LiPo and lead acid except LiPo wins on range (lighter)

The Justwin Cool E-trike is a strong trike. But don't expect its' motor to survive
operation over 30V without clutch failure.View attachment 1

 

[ddk]

:|

 

[docnjoj]

Thanks for the great moon eclipse pics. We were rained out on the South coast.
otherDoc

 

[ddk]

Thanks for the great moon eclipse pics. We were rained out on the South coast.
otherDoc

unfortunate... my vantage point caused the moon to just rise over the mountains @ 0:10 EST which the top pic is of.

The Justwin Cool E-trike is a strong trike. But don't expect its' motor to survive
operation over 30V without clutch failure.

this is an important note as it means I CANNOT use an 8S LiPo battery (such as 2S of 4S 16Ah or 20Ah multistar either of which 4 would fit in my battery case) So tomorrow I'm ordering 2 each 4S 16Ah multistar and 6 each 5Ah 3S 20C Turnigy for a 30Ah battery, which is exactly what I currently use only less wiring mess.
The current 28V batteries aren't failing just yet, but if anything like my other batteries they will fail during winter, when I'd just assume to not want to build a battery in an unheated workshop.
******************************************************************************************************************
Been waiting patiently for my XT90 connectors until... I checked my order invoice and realized I'd ordered everything EXCEPT the XT90 plugs! (computer stuff, JST 6S extensions for balance paralleling etc.)

 

[ddk]

...got my XT90s, JST 6S extensions and am building the parallel connectors.
Building a photo doc for DIYers like myself, only better looking and smarter I'll assume.

I think I understand how someone sufficiently versed in LiPo battery folklore can still accidentally a fire when bulk charging.
On three different occasions now I've had cells fail to a dead short with -0- warning. They just suddenly rapidly discharge to 0V yet not discharge fast enough to get even warm.
This might be where the problem begins.
It's pretty easy to tell when this cell failure happens with a 10S battery.
But what happens when you up the cell count to a 36V controller (most can be powered with up to 15 cells in series... I'm standardizing on 12S where previously I used 10s, 12s and 14s packs).
The more batteries is series connection the less likely it is to notice this loss of a cell. Plus You just obstructed the LVC setting of the controller by overvolting.
...so unless you check batteries before charging or after use you might not be aware that your next bulk recharge might accidentally the battery pack to over 4.5V per cell. Do this a few times and expect fire-urks. (or even once) (ain't gonna happen if you exclusively use smart balance chargers because they just refuse to work when a cell has failed)
This "issue" is NOT brand-specific. It is CHEMISTRY specific.

I use two checks after using a battery pack:
The main check is the battery packs' discharged voltage. I know by documentation how much battery use (final resting voltage) it takes to go from various A to B and back again(s). If the battery deviates a few 10ths of a volt I check individual cell banks....which is also my secondary check I use when I travel some undocumented distance.
This is part of the reasons why I make a better BMS than a BMS cause I'm slightly (just barely) smarter than a kinda dumb circuit

 

[ddk]

just finished the first part to the wiring mess: The main parallel connections.
I'll let the pictures do the talkingView attachment 4