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Nanjing far driver controllers

Has anyone used those standard kill switches found on traditional (non-e) bikes? (my Suzuki had it too, of course)
And for a setup as high as 100A - Which switch holds up? Anyone has experience to share?
View attachment 348102
That kind of switch might handle an amp or two. Anywhere near 100A would melt the wiring to the switch, the switch itself, and the housing on the handlebars, and all the other wiring near it, shorting all the differnet voltages together, damaging all the affected components and probably starting a fire.

You need a large high current switch to reliably disconnect that kind of current at the voltages you're dealing with on vehicles like this. A circuit breaker is a good way to do it because they're designed to break current under load, and not all switches are. They usually have springloaded contacts to help this happen very fast, where switches usually don't, so the switch may have to be larger to handle the slower turn off as you manually move the swtich toggle, wiper, etc. without too much damage to the contacts.
 
Isn't this where someone points out what a relay is?

This is not your answer, but it explains it well

Getting a switch that is gonna handle monster amperage without magic smoke and singed digits getting involved is not gonna be small nor simple.

So, you have an interstitial event relay. event happens, big heavy switch goes clunk and safely engages power. No burnt digits, rarely any magic smoke.

The one you are most likely familiar with is the starter relay, lil wires in the dash do *NOT* handle the up to 900CCA that kicks over your starter motor and spins up your dinosaur burner.

What you need is something similar to that. If ya need help finding one that will work I can probably give a bit of research and explanation of what and how we look for it around Tuesday (literally my life is this sucky)
 
I have problems with my DKYS labeled 721800. I can't save the parameters. I can change the ratios in speed and can test ride them, but saving messes everithing up, and from the second value in ratios all the others are set to 1%.
With the App Version 1.5.5 I can test ride.
The App 2.2.8 says old BLE and when I change to a new BLE from my ND72680 then I can not connect to the controller anymore, but the BLE is recognized.
I have also the PC-Adapter for the Fardrivers, but can't download the software. Siaecosys and Fardriver do not let me download the software.

Does anyone have a newer firmware or the PC Software for the 721800?
 
I tried an older MotorcEnglisch Version with the PC-Adaptor , but it does not connect either. I found the COM port where the adaptor is connected , and think 19200baud should be the speed. I will download the newer version and will try again. Do I have to enter the serial number from the controller to get a connection?
 
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It connects with the motorcenglish2024blue via the pc-adaptor com4 19200baud but it has the same behaviour. I can change values and can drive with them. But if I press save the values get lost.
 
Here is a sheet on the Encoder. Mine did not come with a temperature sensor in it, but I think they
do have one with that option as well. Next time I will get it with it. Not sure why it is not automatically
added. Hope this helps someone.
Does any have an encoder version of Fardriver (ND72680B in my case) and have an idea what the P signal would be used for on the Encoder?
 
Folks I'm probably telling most of you something you already know. But, just in case:

Don't try to buy a 108V controller from Far-driver!

I suspect that these controllers don't exist and, if they ever did, there were problems with them.

I got in touch with this guy

Jack LV | International Sales Director (lvchao@far-driver.com)

1- December. At that time, he said:
"You can buy it directly from me. 1999usd. Bluetooth and shipping included"

So I sent him USD2000

5-December I get:
"Please note that the production time of this type of controller will take 30-60 days"

I wasn't happy but... OK the bike wasn't going to be ready for a couple of months so I said OK.
I checked in on 8-Jan checking that the drive would ship before Chinese New Yar and got no repsponse.

I followed up a little angry on the 10th and got

"I'm sorry, the production has been busy recently, and the delivery date of your controller will be after next month at the soonest, and it will certainly not be completed before the New Year"

I followed up a few days ago and got no response.

I told him I'd start posting this story to the forums if he didn't respond and immediately got:
"I'm sorry, the test of the controller has not finished yet, so I can't give you the delivery date. Do you need me to refund you?"
and
"I am on a business trip, I will come back to the company tomorrow to confirm the progress, and then reply you the time. I'm really sorry"

And have had nothing since.

Now I'm fortunate in that, if I have to write this off then I'll not starve, but this really smells like they are pedaling vapor-ware and the service is absolutely terrible. Be careful.

This kind of behavior damages the industries reputation and, I believe, needs to be called out.
 
It connects with the motorcenglish2024blue via the pc-adaptor com4 19200baud but it has the same behaviour. I can change values and can drive with them. But if I press save the values get lost.
Something must be reversing it back, had that issue with port function 'charge' (had to factory default and keep it unlisted) voltage settings were borked and couldn't set SOC 'state of charge' accordingly.

Advisory, touching 'certain' parameters or functions may create a troubleshooting experience.

Fardriver i got better experience with overall, Votol or especially Lingbo taking out functionality..
 
What I would like to know if fardriver controllers are hard locked on max advertised current and phase amps?

Had a Votol EM80GTSP which I cranked up to 54v @ 115a 6210w stock was 80/260 @ 72v defaulting 5760w output.

voltage × current = wattage
 
I have. We'll see. I'm less worried about the money than I am about having to find another controller.
Have you looked at the siaecosys store on AliExpress? They seem to have some 108v fardriver and I've never been scammed by them, might be worth a look on there.
 
What I would like to know if fardriver controllers are hard locked on max advertised current and phase amps?
The fardrivers are locked to the current they advertise. There is no possibility to set more current
 
Have you looked at the siaecosys store on AliExpress? They seem to have some 108v fardriver and I've never been scammed by them, might be worth a look on there.
I went there first. They advertise them. But they can't deliver them.

This is, in fact, my main point of irritation: OK, so your 108V drives don't work. Fine. So stop telling people they exist and taking money!
 
The switch on the handle bar does not cut battery current. It only switches off an input of the controller which makes the controller stop.
Correct Dominik, it's found on traditional (non-e) bikes. Has anyone used such handlebar switch on an ebike to isolate the battery in an emergency (like many here wrote is "important") ?
How you wire a switch Dominik depends on your needs only. And whether it holds up depends on the current flowing that you are trying to brake per switch.
Does a handlebar kill-switch exist that holds up when you have a 100Ah battery? I don't know. A DIN rail DC breaker for that I can get, I wrote, that's not a problem. But I have no place to mount a DIN rail box on my bike, I think, not even IF it's waterproof. :unsure:
 
That kind of switch might handle an amp or two. Anywhere near 100A would melt the wiring to the switch, ...
I completely agree again.
I am not saying I(!) use, used, or would ever use such switch. :rolleyes: I was showing the non-ebike kill switch like my Suzuki had it too, to exemplify what's meant to go on a bike, and what not (the DIN rail breaker) :cool:
Again, has anyone actually mounted a DIN rail breaker, like it was on the images that have been posted in this long thread? Where? What bike? How?
And if that image was just to make the point (emergency switch), then what other kill switch have you all been implementing, that is waterproof? And where?
 
What you need is something similar to that. If ya need help finding one that will work I can probably give a bit of research and explanation of what and how we look for it around Tuesday (literally my life is this sucky)
Well, again I am in no need of it, no, I am wondering where YOU all placed the "emergency battery kill switch" that was so heavily recommended in this thread (and elsewhere is too) ?
So, I am curious to see photos of YOUR setup.
While I myself don't have a kill switch. This thread however made me curious if I should implement one, and then how/which/what. What better way to learn than asking you guys who say you find such kill switch critically important? ;)

Again, so far, I don't have one and not planned for one: I feel safer than most of you might feel as I am one of the few who don't have a Li-on derivative, but a LiFePo4 which are (almost) impossible to get to burn - which I assume is the fear of those who advocated for a kill switch?

If you have a photo of your bike with one, I likely implement one too regardless. I am always eager to improve my setup. :bigthumb:
 
Folks I'm probably telling most of you something you already know. But, just in case:

Don't try to buy a 108V controller from Far-driver!

I suspect that these controllers don't exist and, if they ever did, there were problems with them.

I got in touch with this guy

Jack LV | International Sales Director (lvchao@far-driver.com)

1- December. At that time, he said:
"You can buy it directly from me. 1999usd. Bluetooth and shipping included"

So I sent him USD2000

5-December I get:
"Please note that the production time of this type of controller will take 30-60 days"

I wasn't happy but... OK the bike wasn't going to be ready for a couple of months so I said OK.
I checked in on 8-Jan checking that the drive would ship before Chinese New Yar and got no repsponse.

I followed up a little angry on the 10th and got

"I'm sorry, the production has been busy recently, and the delivery date of your controller will be after next month at the soonest, and it will certainly not be completed before the New Year"

I followed up a few days ago and got no response.

I told him I'd start posting this story to the forums if he didn't respond and immediately got:
"I'm sorry, the test of the controller has not finished yet, so I can't give you the delivery date. Do you need me to refund you?"
and
"I am on a business trip, I will come back to the company tomorrow to confirm the progress, and then reply you the time. I'm really sorry"

And have had nothing since.

Now I'm fortunate in that, if I have to write this off then I'll not starve, but this really smells like they are pedaling vapor-ware and the service is absolutely terrible. Be careful.

This kind of behavior damages the industries reputation and, I believe, needs to be called out.
Dude it's the chinese new year.
You can't expect anything from China during this period, factories are closed and people are with their families.

Now most people came back to work last week, but supply chains take a bit of time to get fully up to speed.
Yes, the 108V Fardriver controllers do exist, I've seen some.
 
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I doubt it, you need to use a relay/contactor. Example:
Amazon.com You wire a switch to the low power terminals which allows you to cut the power to the main power.
Yes, THAT looks like a powerful relay, thank you.
Now I am worried though that the product photos are right: 24VDC, on all photos. The sales prose is contradictory, as is often the case on amazon pages, unfortunately.
What do you trust, the product photos/labels, or the contradictive sales wording/hype??
I don't know. I think, I trust the photos more.

Basically: I will be running 76.8VDC (rated, it's Lifepo4), which is ~84VDC when charged. :eek:
 
I have problems with my DKYS labeled 721800. I can't save the parameters. I can change the ratios in speed and can test ride them, but saving messes everithing up, and from the second value in ratios all the others are set to 1%.
With the App Version 1.5.5 I can test ride.
The App 2.2.8 says old BLE and when I change to a new BLE from my ND72680 then I can not connect to the controller anymore, but the BLE is recognized.
I have also the PC-Adapter for the Fardrivers, but can't download the software. Siaecosys and Fardriver do not let me download the software.

Does anyone have a newer firmware or the PC Software for the 721800?
Today I tried the App 2.4.5 same behaviour as above.
When I try to bind the controller, the app gets closed.
Email with verification number for the app came within seconds.

When I change from the old BLE to the new one when the controller is running, I can also change parameters. If I start the controller with the new BLE it can't get a connection to the controller.
 
I don't know anything about that specific product, it was just an example. Better known brands are Gigavac and Kilovac which have more detailed data sheets available. Usually you need a lower voltage to activate the switch, 12-48V. Example Kilovac EV200 good for 500 amps and up to 900V but uses 12-24V to power the coil:

Yes, THAT looks like a powerful relay, thank you.
Now I am worried though that the product photos are right: 24VDC, on all photos. The sales prose is contradictory, as is often the case on amazon pages, unfortunately.
What do you trust, the product photos/labels, or the contradictive sales wording/hype??
I don't know. I think, I trust the photos more.

Basically: I will be running 76.8VDC (rated, it's Lifepo4), which is ~84VDC when charged. :eek:
 
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