Nanjing far driver controllers

[eee291]

I've never used a contactor, most of my builds have just a BMS and a plug with a resistor like a xt90 or qs8.
Few of my high power builds (>10 kW) have only a BMS and some are just bolted directly to the battery.

 

[dominik h]

Last week I had two damaged gigavac 600A DC-Contactors on my workbench. The small auxiliary contacts were defect.
For a daily driver I will keep it simple and will not add unneccecary things.
All of my scooters were delivered without a contactor.
But on a motorcycle drawing 500A and more you will struggle finding a common Port Mosfet BMS.

 

[JRP3]

Some of these Fardriver controllers are capable of 1200 amps. Personally I'd like a beefy contactor between the pack and controller, but maybe that's outdated thinking from my early series brushed DC motor controller days when a failed controller could mean full power to the motor.

 

[dominik h]

My Fardriver could do 800bA and the battery way more.

The full power thing is something I fear of to.

But if you try to open the contactor under full load it will probably burn it's contacts and not disconnect.

 

[JRP3]

You obviously need to use a contactor properly rated for the load, like any other component.

 

[Currawong]

I was getting a delay on the throttle response. On the app I could see it only getting to 90-100 throttle (0-256 range) while under 500rpm, and once past that it would go full throttle output to 256 on the graph. So I just started messing with any and every setting there was. Re Acc seam to effect how fast the throttle responds from 0rpm.
Also RelayDelay set to low as possible.
StartIs to low as possible (not sure if this had an effect)
Fast RE to valid.

SlowdownRPM set to 4000 I think was the key setting!
When it was set to 500 (like it was) it would not give more then 1/3 throttle output, even when trying to give it full throttle, until the rpm got above 500. Then I would see the graph actually showing the throttle to respond to 256 output. Now it will show 256 output at even 0rpm! The way it should be.!

Just start messing with all of the settings in the product tab, one at a time and then go watch the throttle response on the graph page.

Now when I give it full throttle, the graph shows it going to 256 (full throttle output) in about 1/2 of a second. Like it should, doesn’t stay low at around 100 (1/3 throttle), like it used to.

Hi HumboldRC,

I have the same issue, but I can’t seem to change any of the parameters you mention.
I’m using the software on a iPhone. I am connected as ‘Owner’ and I am able to change other sections I.e. pid settings, and basic voltage/current values. Just not the Product settings.

What device and level of software are you using?

Thanks

 

[jonpad01]

Hey guys. Maybe some one has already posted this. I took the manual Released by FarDriver and used DeepL to translate it to English. I also included the original chinese document as the source. Have not read through it yet to see if it makes any sense, but I thought I'd share it.

Ok so I read through it and it seems like a lot of the parameters use a range of unsigned 8 bit or 16 bit values, so something like 0-255 or 0-1023. And then they add a table of explanation for what those values mean, but it is still hard to understand exactly what it means with the translation.

7.2.3 Tempurature coefficient looks like a bitfield. I'm not sure if changing this manually is allowed, never tried, it would be so easy to mess this up by putting in random numbers.

I unfortunatly changed my battery full and battery 0 coefficients to something that made the gauge match my battery level. That was probably a mistake.

Changing some of these values without knowing exactly what Far Driver is doing seems like a bad idea.

For example, it says that Slow Start is default to 255, which is the maximum value of an unsigned 8 bit integer. This is definetly not in units of RPMs. I have no idea what this value does, I wish there was better documentation, or that Far Driver would remove this option from the app completly if they arent going to offer a more detailed explanation.

 

[peadar]

Hey guys. Maybe some one has already posted this. I took the manual Released by FarDriver and used DeepL to translate it to English. I also included the original chinese document as the source. Have not read through it yet to see if it makes any sense, but I thought I'd share it.

Ok so I read through it and it seems like a lot of the parameters use a range of unsigned 8 bit or 16 bit values, so something like 0-255 or 0-1023. And then they add a table of explanation for what those values mean, but it is still hard to understand exactly what it means with the translation.

7.2.3 Tempurature coefficient looks like a bitfield. I'm not sure if changing this manually is allowed, never tried, it would be so easy to mess this up by putting in random numbers.

I unfortunatly changed my battery full and battery 0 coefficients to something that made the gauge match my battery level. That was probably a mistake.

Changing some of these values without knowing exactly what Far Driver is doing seems like a bad idea.

For example, it says that Slow Start is default to 255, which is the maximum value of an unsigned 8 bit integer. This is definetly not in units of RPMs. I have no idea what this value does, I wish there was better documentation, or that Far Driver would remove this option from the app completly if they arent going to offer a more detailed explanation.

Thanks for the effort

 

[Currawong]

Hi Guys,

I got my connection working from laptop to bike working (had to switch Xon/Xoff = ON, in the COM port params).
But I am still unable to change other than the basic param (voltage, current). So Laptop and bluetooth (iPhone) have the same issue.
Is this down to having a bad/old version of the controller software?

I am not able to update the number of PolePairs (showing 4) where my motor has 23 pairs.

What difference does this make having the wrong number of pairs?

 

[dominik h]

The number of Pole pairs makes no difference.
It only shows wrong rpm in the app and on a display, and it shows the wrong speed on a Display.
It is running fine with wrong pole pair settings.

 

[Currawong]

The number of Pole pairs makes no difference.
It only shows wrong rpm in the app and on a display, and it shows the wrong speed on a Display.
It is running fine with wrong pole pair settings.

Thanks,

yes the bike is running great, just looking to ensure things are set correctly. As I have read on other posts/forums that the number of poles (pole pairs) are important for tuning the controller to the motor.

 

[Currawong]

Hi Guys,

I don't know if its been mentioned before but in looking for a description of some of the controller parameters I have found,
KO Moto website

Which has definitely helped me understand what affect change things might have.

 

[jonpad01]

I don't know if its been mentioned before but in looking for a description of some of the controller parameters I have found,
KO Moto website

I disagree with these two descriptions:

Follow - Enabled - Turns on regen braking

when I had that set it would keep giving the motor a small amount of torque after I let off the throttle, I assume as a way to offset the drag created by a direct drive motor when coasting.

Phase Offset - Not in use - cannot be changed automatically calibrated.

I was able to adjust the phase offset, on my controller, I followed a suggestion from a youtube video to eliminate some noise during startup. The auto learn came up with 208, and I ended up with 225 after testing different values while doing a hill start.

 

[Raven505]

You need a pre-charge resistor in the circuit that connects before the main contactors and charges the controller capacitors in a few seconds instead of all at once. The Kelly may have handled that internally.

Hey…I’ve been looking around and can’t seem to find or figure out the method to do this. Can you show me a schematic that will work or somethin? Thnx for the help!

 

[JRP3]

Here is the most basic setup with a resistor permanently across the contactor, but this is not switched. The white rectangle is the resistor.



Here is a more complete description and a schematic with a switched circuit:

Li-Ion BMS - Precharge

 

[JRP3]

Also here: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/precharge-what-is-it-why-do-i-need-it-how-do-i-do-it.25419/

 

[jonpad01]

You need a pre-charge resistor in the circuit that connects before the main contactors and charges the controller capacitors in a few seconds instead of all at once. The Kelly may have handled that internally.

My JK BMS connects directly to the controller and has a on/off button, should I worry about precharging when switching the BMS on? I have AS150 anti spark connectors between the BMS and the controller. I can disconect one, power on the BMS, and then reconnect the anti spark connector.

 

[JRP3]

I don't know if the BMS may have a built in precharge circuit or not. If not I'd think that if you are cutting battery power to the controller, and if the controller itself doesn't have built in precharge, then you would want to use a precharge circuit.

 

[jyatli]

I have a ND 721200B Far driver that is using an Encoder type sensor. NJD Y2915 to be specific.
The wiring harness is different from the Fardrivers I have seen here. I attached some photo's.
The wiring diagram is a little vague at best. I have been waiting for a response for the factory to
make a wiring diagram of the entire wiring harness but no response yet. We don't want to make
a wrong connection and burn up the controller.

So I have a couple questions to be sure, try to get this working sooner than later..
The contactor has a L- wire. What does this stand for? Contactors we use have a 12v coil and the two main contacts.
If we run the ignition wire to turn it on, that's 72vdc thru the contactor. Not sure that is right.

The throttle has it' s 5v/ signal out and it's own ground. Forward/ Reverse/ Low brake and High brake don't. I want to
assume these go thru a switch and then to Battery Ground. Is this the case? Some other controllers have a separate ground
for these type accessories. That for any help. FYI. This is going on a Custom Mid Motor setup not a Hub motor.

Thanks for the pictures, they are helpful. I'm setting up my ND721200B Encoder-style controller with a QS 180 motor, and can get it to go into "Forward" by applying battery voltage (72V DC) to the gray and white stripe wire at Pin 1 on the 9-pin 2.3mm Furukawa connector. However, I cannot get it to go into high speed by doing the same thing. I am wondering if this one needs to be connected to ground to be activated. Any luck figuring out how to wire and thereby affect the speed setting?

For those in my same situation, I had Hall sensor errors until I set the "Angle Detect" setting to 2-Encoder-4096. This was not the factory default.

 

[jyatli]

I have a ND 721200B Far driver that is using an Encoder type sensor. NJD Y2915 to be specific.
The wiring harness is different from the Fardrivers I have seen here. I attached some photo's.
The wiring diagram is a little vague at best. I have been waiting for a response for the factory to
make a wiring diagram of the entire wiring harness but no response yet. We don't want to make
a wrong connection and burn up the controller.

So I have a couple questions to be sure, try to get this working sooner than later..
The contactor has a L- wire. What does this stand for? Contactors we use have a 12v coil and the two main contacts.
If we run the ignition wire to turn it on, that's 72vdc thru the contactor. Not sure that is right.

The throttle has it' s 5v/ signal out and it's own ground. Forward/ Reverse/ Low brake and High brake don't. I want to
assume these go thru a switch and then to Battery Ground. Is this the case? Some other controllers have a separate ground
for these type accessories. That for any help. FYI. This is going on a Custom Mid Motor setup not a Hub motor.

Looks like connecting the "High" speed wire, the yellow with a white stripe wire at Pin 2 on the 6-pin 2.3mm Furukawa connector, to ground did the trick. Also, setting my motor temp sensor to "1-PTC" worked for me. Good luck to all!

 

[jyatli]

In my case, I changed the "SpdPulseNum" parameter to get the speed to be accurate on the speedometer. Here is a screenshot of the section I'm referring to (this was before I changed specialframe from 16 to 0). I suspect you are running a different version of the app:
View attachment 328530

What does the "SpecialFrame" parameter do and why did you change it?

 

[peadar]

Nice display for fardriver at e conic cycle ,

 

[Raven505]

Here is the most basic setup with a resistor permanently across the contactor, but this is not switched. The white rectangle is the resistor.

View attachment 358101

Here is a more complete description and a schematic with a switched circuit:

Li-Ion BMS - Precharge

Tanks for this. Helps immensel!

 

[Raven505]

Also here: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/precharge-what-is-it-why-do-i-need-it-how-do-i-do-it.25419/

If I’m running 13s will a 48v contactor work? Or how does that work on these? Is It the coil voltage you need to be the same?

 

[Raven505]

Also here: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/precharge-what-is-it-why-do-i-need-it-how-do-i-do-it.25419/

Thanks for all your help!