I am just finishing my bike rebuild ready for the warmer (drier?) weather to arrive. I’m using a cheap FS aluminium frame, Marzocchi Bomber forks, with a modified cyclone kit, 3 chain ring crank (48T/44T/36T), and 36V with 20A controller. I have replaced the Dicta freewheel on the crank with a White Industries ENO from http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=62&osCsid=gpstebak1429nges8gfs2ee5e6 . And the outer motor powered sprocket is 48T with the standard 14T freewheel on the Cyclone motor/gearbox. I like the throttle on the right so I have mounted the Nuvinci shifter on the left. This means the display is upside down, but I don’t find it a problem as I rarely look at the inchworm display. The middle sprocket on the crank is 44T to a 20T on the Nuvinci N360 hub in a 26†wheel. I have removed the front Derailleur; but if there is a problem with the battery or electronics, and I have to use human power only, I can manually shift the chain onto the 36T inner chain ring. I’m using a Powerplay CHT100 Chain Tensioner on the Derailleur hanger. The Nuvinci hub seems just right for a Cyclone setup; I hope now that it will work out better than the Derailleur I used previously. With the Derailleur I was always having problems with the chain and sprockets.
Overview of bike with the open battery box
I am using the original Cyclone/ Headline controller but I have re-wired it to fit the bike and battery arrangement improving the waterproofing. The controller is mounted on the seatpost with DIY HDPE clamps, which look a bit chunky. I have included a pre-charge circuit to stop the large cap spark when connecting the batteries. I’ve got a 100A relay with a pre-charge resistor and power on delay circuit. Power usage and battery voltage display using the Turnigy 130A Wattmeter built into a waterproof housing (HDPE) along with the power switch, relay, dc-dc converter 12v 3A (using a LM2576HV Step-Down Voltage Regulator and delay circuit).
Display panel
I have just been taking a few measurements with a digital tachometer and I was surprised to see the speed of the geared motor output at full throttle with 39.5V battery 12s Headway. The readings I got with No load are:-
615 RPM at the 14T motor sprocket
175 RPM at the cranks
668 RPM at the wheel full overdrive (high)
223 RPM at the wheel full underdrive (low)
Using the 36T chain ring, I measured No load:-
573 RPM at the wheel (high) WOT
182 RPM at the wheel (low) WOT
The Cyclone gearbox is 9.33:1, so if the output 14T sprocket is doing 615 RPM WOT, the motor must be going at 5737 RPM, which seems a bit faster than I expected, looking at data about the Cyclone / Headline 650-1200w motors.
The battery box is made from 3mm HDPE and aluminium angle. I can fit the two 36v 10Ah batteries in. I have made the battery packs up in 6S units. I connect 2 in series 12S and hope to get some Ideal Diodes, when ES member Tiberius makes a new batch, to connect the two 12S in parallel. I don’t use BMS, but I do use CellLog 8S battery monitors and loggers (4) from Hobyking HK to monitor each cell for LVC. And charge the packs as 6S with a couple of iCharger 106B-plus 250W 6s Balance/Chargers.
Battery pack construction
Finished battery packs
Two battery packs in the box
Battery box and chain guard
Left hand side of bike with locked battery box
Display position on the frame
Right hand side of bike
Junction box between motor and controller
I have nearly finished the build, just working on strengthening the hub dropouts with some torque arms/plates, and including mounts for front and rear mudguards (fenders), to stop the muddy brown line up my back and over my face when it’s wet.
Just weighed the bike with batteries and it’s about 68 pounds (31Kg), so no light weight. I don’t think I will be pedaling without power up the steep hills around my location!
Overview of bike with the open battery box
I am using the original Cyclone/ Headline controller but I have re-wired it to fit the bike and battery arrangement improving the waterproofing. The controller is mounted on the seatpost with DIY HDPE clamps, which look a bit chunky. I have included a pre-charge circuit to stop the large cap spark when connecting the batteries. I’ve got a 100A relay with a pre-charge resistor and power on delay circuit. Power usage and battery voltage display using the Turnigy 130A Wattmeter built into a waterproof housing (HDPE) along with the power switch, relay, dc-dc converter 12v 3A (using a LM2576HV Step-Down Voltage Regulator and delay circuit).
Display panel
I have just been taking a few measurements with a digital tachometer and I was surprised to see the speed of the geared motor output at full throttle with 39.5V battery 12s Headway. The readings I got with No load are:-
615 RPM at the 14T motor sprocket
175 RPM at the cranks
668 RPM at the wheel full overdrive (high)
223 RPM at the wheel full underdrive (low)
Using the 36T chain ring, I measured No load:-
573 RPM at the wheel (high) WOT
182 RPM at the wheel (low) WOT
The Cyclone gearbox is 9.33:1, so if the output 14T sprocket is doing 615 RPM WOT, the motor must be going at 5737 RPM, which seems a bit faster than I expected, looking at data about the Cyclone / Headline 650-1200w motors.
The battery box is made from 3mm HDPE and aluminium angle. I can fit the two 36v 10Ah batteries in. I have made the battery packs up in 6S units. I connect 2 in series 12S and hope to get some Ideal Diodes, when ES member Tiberius makes a new batch, to connect the two 12S in parallel. I don’t use BMS, but I do use CellLog 8S battery monitors and loggers (4) from Hobyking HK to monitor each cell for LVC. And charge the packs as 6S with a couple of iCharger 106B-plus 250W 6s Balance/Chargers.
Battery pack construction
Finished battery packs
Two battery packs in the box
Battery box and chain guard
Left hand side of bike with locked battery box
Display position on the frame
Right hand side of bike
Junction box between motor and controller
I have nearly finished the build, just working on strengthening the hub dropouts with some torque arms/plates, and including mounts for front and rear mudguards (fenders), to stop the muddy brown line up my back and over my face when it’s wet.
Just weighed the bike with batteries and it’s about 68 pounds (31Kg), so no light weight. I don’t think I will be pedaling without power up the steep hills around my location!
