Need help sizing an electric lawn mower motor/battery pack

auraslip

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As has been discussed a few times recently there is an interest in converting either a pre-made electric lawn mower to lithium or converting a gas powered mower to electric. I'm trying to figure out how much power the electric mowers will have in comparison to gas mower, but trying to wade through all the manufacturers marketing is really making it hard on this newb. My goal is to replace my current Toro mower with a name plate rating of 6.5 hp (but reported to the EPA as only 3.7hp) with an electric with at LEAST as much power.

First is choosing between two options;
:arrow: craigslisting a used "1200w" black and decker - Less than $100
:arrow: strapping this motor made for electric lawn mowersto the deck of a freebie "trash" mower. - $160 for the motor + $20 for the lawn mower chassis

The motor is a Tecumseh 90000A
24 Volts DC 1.54 HP 3200 RPM 4.5 Amps (No Load) Reversible Rotation Long Intermittent Duty Cycle Shipping Weight: 15 Pounds

The upside to this motor is that it directly bolts to most lawn mower decks, and accepts standard blades.


The question here is, "Which is more powerful, the pre-made mowers or the Tecumseh motor?" None of the pre-made mowers have any information about the motors other than vague wattage ratings. On the other hand, the pre-made mowers will be less work and cheaper.

Back to the Tecumseh motor though. Can we calculate torque, current draw, and power from the information given? Realisticly, I'd just want to find out how it'd compare to a gas mower, and how much current it pulls.

Finally, battery choice: I need probably two hours of run time. 6s 5ah lipo packs would be perfectly modular, cheap, and easy to work with. But 6 * 3.8v nominal = 22.8v - slightly under 24v. So I'd have less (or the same) amount of power as with saggy lead acid. Plus because LIPO's discharge curve isn't flat, I'd lose power as I went along. 7s would be nice, but would require combing 3s + 4s packs. Not as simple. 8s would probably have the blade spinning way too fast!

Another options would be 8s of lifepo4. Either 8s2p of 10ah headways or 20ah thundersky cells. All three options are near the same price, but the modularity of the lipo would make it easy to upgrade capacity (also I could use it on my bike later on!) Also there is weight, size, and charge rate issues.

I'm really psyched to try out the power logger for the mower. It's gotta the same features as the cell-log such as lvc and hvc alarms, but also can monitor 4 temp sensors (for the motor!), keep track of wattage and power use, and also check the motor RPM. Only problem is that it's for 6s.... As is the battery medic I plan on using to balance...
PL-6S.jpg


So any one have a stock electric lawn mower they can install a watt meter on to check actual power consumption?

Some other conversions:
http://jeanegan.com/2007/06/01/lawn-mower-conversion/
http://www.arttec.net/Solar_Mower/index.html
http://visforvoltage.org/blog/jdh2550_1/2076
 
6s lipo will have much better grunt than the 24v sla's. They really do sag that much. By the time you get to "nominal" voltage with lipo, you would be good to stop discharging anyway. You'll have plenty of blade rpm, and none of the bogging down in grass that is only mildly thick.

I wouldn't call my B&D mower a strong one. Not as powerful as the weakest gas mowers when running well. For commercial use, you really need a strong one, or two so you can let one rest while you heat up another. So you might as well try the tecumseh.

My 110v b&d corded mower is not to weak, but still not the equivilant of a decent 6 hp commercial grade mower.
 
I have and old 24 volt ryobi lawnmower motor that's running at 36 volts Power by a 36 volt/20 amp headway pack.
However ive never cut grass with it, for it's on my E bike. Me and the bike weigh 215 Lbs. 27 M P H on flats about 650 watts, it pulls hills at 20 M P H about 1500 watts ( would burn up on a hill longer than 1/2 mile at full ) 6 % grade.
locked rotor about 70 amps
Total trip from full charge to 1st LVC hit, 18,5 miles ( got some weak cells ?? )
Hope this helps
 
Ask the google?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.builditsolar.com%2FProjects%2FVehicles%2FLeeMower.htm&ei=4uXJTf25EYH20gHl69TgBw&usg=AFQjCNFFAJ6lR6LdL4lwWOjX-cbJpRvWnw
 
I tried mine on 6S1P 5Ah LiPo today, and granted the SLA pack isn't in very good condition (won't take a full charge), but it ran faster on the LiPo than on the SLA...even when it dropped down to 3.8V/cell. I could definitely feel it sagging in the thick grass though, and the pack was warm when I took it out after about 10 minutes of mowing. Tomorrow I'll try it with 15Ah, once I get all three packs fully charged. Should hopefully get rid of the sagging. I'll update with the results.

EDIT:
...aaaand, I just blew up my iCharger...after only getting one pack charged... Looks like I won't be testing with a 15Ah pack tomorrow after all. :evil:
 
sweet x88x - lipo: it's not just for toys. Unless you're hank hill and you're lawn mower is your toy :D



EDIT:
...aaaand, I just blew up my iCharger...after only getting one pack charged... Looks like I won't be testing with a 15Ah pack tomorrow after all. :evil:

thaaaaaaaaaaaaaat sucks. Maybe now is a good time to try out bulk charging...? I got a genuine s-150-27 meanwell off ebay for $20 shipped... shipped from california.... only 5.7a but works well.... I use two in series for charging my 48v ping.... cheap and simple.
 
Maybe...I might have a 24V-ish power adapter somewhere....hmmmm.

I already put in warranty claim with EPBuddy, so hopefully I'll have a replacement soon, but it would be nice to not be reliant on a single charger.
 
Interesting that you saw sagging in thick grass. Perhaps 7s is the best for big jobs. I found 8s made a pretty scary blade speed. I just wasn't sure how fast really, and have seen some rocks and such fly out of mowers pretty hard. Maybe try 6s and have some 2s boost packs when needed?

When I was trying out 5s last summer, that was definitely slow. I was seeing more like the blade bogging down than sag like the sla's did. It will be a bit different than gas mowers, that may rev up when they hit thick stuff.

If you like bad ass radio controlled lawnmowers, you need to see a movie called Frankenhooker some day. The nerd has his new robot mower go bad and chew up his fiancee in the opening scene. Then he starts trying to rebuild her but needs parts.
 
dogman said:
Interesting that you saw sagging in thick grass. Perhaps 7s is the best for big jobs. I found 8s made a pretty scary blade speed. I just wasn't sure how fast really, and have seen some rocks and such fly out of mowers pretty hard. Maybe try 6s and have some 2s boost packs when needed?
I'm not sure if it's sagging or just the blade bogging down, tbh. All I know is that the blade slows down in thick grass. Now, first a disclaimer; because my charger blew up last night (EPBuddy actually responded at 12:30am EST....color me impressed :D ...now I just have to find a printer...) and the easiest charging method I was able to cobble together was a couple really old 24V 0.35A bricks in parallel (0.7A charging! Hells yeah! :p)...which actually only run at 23.5V...I was only able to get my packs up to 23.5V, or 3.9V/cell. As a result, I haven't actually seen how it will behave in the upper 50% of the 80% capacity that we use, but from the bottom 50%, I'm going to say that 7S would definitely be a good idea for this mower at least. IIRC, Homelite says this is just a 400W motor, and if that is correct, I'm pretty impressed with its grunt so far. It is noticeably less powerful than my 22" Lawn-boy with a 4.5HP Briggs & Stratton engine, but for ~12% of the rated power, I would expect so. Unfortunately, I don't have a CA/WattsUp/etc, so I can't say what power it's pulling exactly. My multimeter does have a current meter mode, but it tops out at 10A...so that wouldn't be much use. It looks like Harbor Freight has a cheap clamp ammeter for $13 though, so I might swing by and pick up one of those tomorrow. Going from 3.9V to 3.5V (yeah, I know; there was a last little bit that I wanted to finish after I noticed that it had hit 3.6V :p ) with a 15Ah it did about 1/32 of an acre, but about a quarter of the time it was running I was doing stuff around a row of small trees, and the rest of the time it was going through very thick grass, about 18" tall. I'll update tomorrow on how much it can do without the messing around with the trees. I'm guessing, though, that once I can charge them to 4.2V/cell again and once I get through the really tall stuff and am only cutting off a couple inches, a 15Ah pack might just take care of the part of my back yard with grass (a little over 1/2 acre, I think).

Anyways, my recommendation for this specific mower is that it's fine for home use, seems to do just fine on normal grass with 6S LiPo, for thick grass would really benefit from a 1S or 2S booster pack. I would definitely not recommend it for professional use though, partly because of the small motor, partly because of the 20" cut size, and partly because the blade they use is very thin; presumably to make it easier for the small motor to spin it easily. I think that 1.5kW motor referenced earlier, though, running a 22" or 24" deck would work great.

dogman said:
If you like bad ass radio controlled lawnmowers, you need to see a movie called Frankenhooker some day.
Or better yet, a couple real ones. :mrgreen:
http://hackaday.com/2009/11/14/rc-lawnmower/
http://hackaday.com/2010/05/03/remote-control-reel-mower/
 
Hahahaha, wooow. So, I had those old power bricks hooked up, bulk-charging my pack, and I smelled a burning plastic smell...turns out these brick enclosures were made with a much lower temperature plastic than modern stuff, and the two sitting on top of each other had started to melt the plastic in between. They actually stuck together when I took the top brick off. :lol: I wouldn't have thought two transformers only pulling 30W each would make that much heat, but I guess I was overestimating these old parts. :p
bricksOsuck.jpg
 
Hahaha, I know. They put out 24V@0.35A and 5V@0.60A. A while ago I picked up a box of random old electronics off eBay for parts scavenging ($20 for, iirc, ~20lb of stuff). They were in the box. :p Some of the other stuff in the box that I actually recognized were old programming cards from 70's-era mainframes, so I have no clue how old these are. I actually got three of them in the box but one of them isn't working. Looks like it might just be a blown capacitor but I haven't tried fixing it yet. The pack just now hit 23.5V, so that was what, about 6 hours to put in..should be 8Ah if my calculations are correct (3.5V/cell to 3.9V/cell on a 15Ah pack)? So it looks like they power supplies are putting out almost twice their rated current levels...maybe because I'm not loading the 5V line...no wonder they're getting hot. :lol:

As a side note, something I forgot to mention, it's just so much more pleasant to use an electric mower than ICE. No noise is the biggest thing, but being able to just stop and start the blade at the drop of a hat is one of those things that you don't really think would be useful at all, but is actually really nice. And being able to push it around without having to worry about the top getting hot, flip it upside-down without having to worry about the oil leaking out, don't have to worry about the air intake (since there isn't one)...it's just a much more enjoyable experience.
 
When I tried 8s in thick grass last year, I was not seeing any blade slowdown. Cut like a champ. Really cut like a champ when I tried it on the 36v ping!

I wasn't too worried about the blade speed on 8s, but I was concerned how the motor could take it. Pretty small motor, and I'd just paid $150 for it. So I was concerned about melting it. Brushed ya know, so easy to melt. Similar sized cheap table saw motors melt easy.

For pro use, a green mowing set up might be good to include a corded one as a back up. Use it when the grass is crazy thick, or for the close to the plug part of the yard. I found the plug in one strong, and able to go without melting long enough.
 
Heheh, so yesterday, out of curiosity, I tried running it on 12S for a little while. :twisted: It actually ran quite well and blew through really tall, thick, grass without hesitation....and then smoke started coming out of holes in the cover. :p It's fine now; I haven't taken it apart again yet, but I'm guessing the brushes were upset with me. :lol: After that, I confirmed that for normal height grass (ie, only cutting off ~2-3") it does just fine on 6S with no significant slowdown even when I walk as fast as I am used to doing with my gas mower. Covers a lot more area on normal height grass too.
 
Yahoo, 12s is is even more volts than I had when I tried my ping on the mower. Those brushed motors don't like but so much overvolting, so I backed off to 24v.

This week I did a bit of mowing on a patch that has grown to "normal" thickness for bermudagrass. Removing 1 inch or so, it mowed just fine with only 10s, 10 ah, and a half run down pack as well. Some slowing of the blade, but no hint of the sagging battery slowdown I had with the lead.

To run a lawn buisness, you'd need a lot of AH handy to go for several hours a day. But it sure would come in handy to have that much lipo on your day off. 8)

Bunch of nice 8s A123 packs would really be the ticket, for the best cost per cycle. Maybe even just a largish ping, like 24v 40 ah.

Just to throw another wrench into the calclulations, the more recent models of cordless mowers are running 36v motors.
 
dogman said:
To run a lawn buisness, you'd need a lot of AH handy to go for several hours a day. But it sure would come in handy to have that much lipo on your day off. 8)

Bunch of nice 8s A123 packs would really be the ticket, for the best cost per cycle. Maybe even just a largish ping, like 24v 40 ah.
My thinking exactly. I'm guessing for a professional pack you would need ~40-60Ah to run all day since my 15Ah pack charged to ~50% (3.9V/cell) lasts about 40-50 minutes on short grass or about 20 minutes on really tall grass.
 
Something else I noticed yesterday when I tried using the stock, mostly dead, SLA pack was how much difference the extra weight makes. Using it with my LiPo pack is a pleasure; super easy to pull around corners or maneuver wherever, with one hand just as easily as with two. ...but with the SLA...it's heavier than my gas powered mower. :x Given that experience, I can really see how someone would be put off a cordless mower. Some company really needs to come out with a good, lithium-powered, cordless mower....unfortunately it would probably cost an arm and a leg...
 
That's what I'm loving, my mower is crazy light to push around the yard with only 3 pounds of lipo aboard. Plus I can go do the mowing at dawn with no worries about a neighbor minding the noise.
 
You wouldn't even need the kit really, just get the motor and a high-current switch and run it at a set speed.
 
Another tip: keep those blades razor sharp.

I got done cutting today with much more reserve ( guessing ~25% more) , after dressing the edges with a dremel. Grass looks better too.
 
I think the original motor I linked to is brushed.... so all I need is a heavy duty momentary switch tied to the dead-mans bar.... probably can order the replacement for a standard 24v electric mower...

yeah sharp blades = happy grass............ ya gotta cut it...not rip it!
 
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