Need help with Gary/Fechter Bms

biohazardman said:
Some chargers can be adjusted up 5-10% others not. A few hundreths of a volt means little a few tenths can make the pack take a long time to ballance or LVC kick in a bit sooner. My guess is your charging system is weak or you did not leave the batts on long enough to ballance all the way or they would have been even closer to one another.
Often you can find model numbers on the charger and run them through google to find info about hook ups and adjusments.

great, then my charger defiantly needs to be adjusted or swapped out. I'll try finding it online, I know there are forums on this site about similar chargers but my internals look a bit different even if they are made by the same people.
 
it's been only a day and I feel like i've once again messed something up. It charged the 8 cells from the variable transformer the other day fine and now its not charging another set. Whats worse is that when charging leds light up on channels that aren't full, but only when charging. Here is a video of me testing things so you can really see what I'm doing. First it charging, then I test some voltages to show you, next I turn off the transformer to show that two cells are charged. then I turn on the charger without the cells to show the throttling, that works. Then I show you how the batteries were connected with wire since I had to pull the cells from 10 cell packs to make an 8 cell pack. here it is. If you have the patients, please watch. thanks

[youtube]PCX_jArGztM[/youtube]
 
View attachment DSC01552.jpeg

A burnt out led was what caused 24 to not work. Of course I found that out after I replaced every non passive part. The led looked fine I never would have guessed.

at least I replaced the two parts that had shoddy legs so now they are in better shape.

View attachment DSC01556.jpeg

the bms no longer auto shuts off. I thought this was only happening because channel 24 was messed up. I don't know what to do about this that I haven't all ready done. go over my soldering again!? I can test all the optos. I think I know how.

If I can't get this working by sunday I'll give up. I think right now its an ego thing. I can't bear to think of how much time and energy I've waisted just to pay someone else to fix it. I keep telling myself that this was supposed to be easy, that all I had to do is spend a little ass in chair time and follow the instructions. It would be like legos - just look at the pictures and put the right piece in place. Were did I go so wrong?


A burnt out led was what caused 24 to not work. Of course I found that out after I replaced every non passive part. The led looked fine I never would have guessed.

at least I replaced the two parts that had shoddy legs so now they are in better shape.

the bms no longer auto shuts off. I thought this was only happening because channel 24 was messed up. I don't know what to do about this that I haven't all ready done. go over my soldering again!? I can test all the optos. I think I know how.

If I can't get this working by sunday I'll give up. I think right now its an ego thing. I can't bear to think of how much time and energy I've waisted just to pay someone else to fix it. I keep telling myself that this was supposed to be easy, that all I had to do is spend a little ass in chair time and follow the instructions. It would be like legos - just look at the pictures and put the right piece in place. Were did I go so wrong? I want to say "help me" but I don't think there is anything anyone can do.
 
This is gilnet,no,I'm not the one to save you and the spammer above certainly ain't.give it a rest.its always the most obvious thing that you have been staring at and assuming its not.like the burned out led.go get a beer or whatever takes your mind away for awhile.the answer will creep in it just needs room.your brain is full.If not the brain trust here at es will have time to evaluate it and help you getter done.go away, come back tomorrow when the scraping noise between your ears grind to a halt.keep the faith! gilnet
 
I increased the charger voltage to 94.2 V. I don't know how this affects the amps. when I tried reading it it said only .4 amps. Maybe I did it wrong, maybe it said that because it was close to being full. There are many pots. Here is a picture

charger.jpg

I put a higher res second angle here.

the one on the most left increased the voltage to about 90V when I turned it counter clockwise. The one on the far right let me change it to 94 V maybe higher but I left it at that.

The others didn't do anything to the voltage and I don't know what a good way to test the amps are. I was using my multimeter but it says it can take up to 10 amps for 30 seconds. Im a bit paranoid that I'll burn it out. it's 5 bucks for a replacement set from sears and even though I only need the one 10 amp fuse, it comes with others. Any suggestions on how I should precede with testing amps and what the other pots might do? I can e-mail e-city but I'm not sure if jack will be happy to tell me what they do.
 
two of the cells refuse to charge.

The pack was a 8 pack that I had cut out two bad cells and but two good ones in. the two good ones aren't charging. This has happened with another back in a different configuration and the same deal, the new ones don't charge but the other do.

View attachment DSC01568.jpeg
View attachment DSC01569.jpeg

so these are the culprits. when I read the packs voltage, they are accounted for, and even in another set up where the added cells were on either side of the pack, the ones in the middle charged fine. Don't get how that works since it means current must be going through the cells but they won't charge. The cells voltage in this case stay at 3.35, 3.27 while almost all the others settle at exactly 3.6 v some others are very close to that. Don't know if it's the bms, I'll move the cells around for the next test.

ideas are welcome. thanks
 
Assembly and test instructions are here. If followed you may be able to figure things out. Good luck

http://www.tppacks.com/documents/4-24%20-%20Cell%20LiFePO4%20BMS-v2.6c%20Kit%20Assembly-Test%20Instructions.pdf
 
biohazardman said:
Assembly and test instructions are here. If followed you may be able to figure things out. Good luck

http://www.tppacks.com/documents/4-24%20-%20Cell%20LiFePO4%20BMS-v2.6c%20Kit%20Assembly-Test%20Instructions.pdf

I built it using that. If it were as simple as following those instructions I'd be golden. Maybe some people had better luck.
 
You built it then you can fix it you would hope. Mine was not perfect the first time I plugged it in. Unplugged it immediately and scraped lots of flux from the back of the board. Plugged it back in and it werqed. Later on, I somehow managed to short something out on the bare board and smoked the FET and a couple of transistors. FET was easy to find as I saw it arc and smoke. Had to ohm out the transistors and still was not sure till I pulled them from the circuit to test them but I did know they regulated the power it so made things easier. I found that when batteries are way different in voltage things werq better if I use a single cell charger to get them reasonably close before I hook the pack up to charge. They balance well that way otherwise it could take hours to balance if they do at all. I know it can be frustrating and tedious werq and wish you luck.
 
Disconnect from the pack and run thru the tests to make sure each individual channel is working correctly. The channels must work before the control section will work.

To test the LVC side, you'll need a LVC indicator - either a multi meter on the diode test function, or about 1.8-2V DC power and an LED. The brake inhibit connections on the BMS are polarized - connecting backwards at best won't give an indication and at worst can damage an output on an opto-isolator.

For the input, use a single cell and a 10K variable resistor for a variable power supply, or use a bench supply. You'll need at least 1.4V to activate the LVC signal at the bottom and about 3.7V to test the shunts later.

View attachment 1
View attachment LVC_PS1.jpg

To verify a channel, adjust the power up thru 3.7V and watch the orange LED start to glow at about 3.62V and be full bright at about 3.68V.

To test the LVC, turn the voltage down thru 2.1V and look for your test LED to light, or for an indication on the meter's diode function. [edit] Assuming a 2.1V LVC typically used for cylindrical cells. Look for 2.7V if the BMS was built using 2.7V TC54s for prismatic cells. [/edit]

If the LVC doesn't work, chances are it's a bad TC54. The resistor and ILD2 are pretty tough to kill.

For the shunt side - it's likely the LM431, then possibly the BD136.

If the LVC indicator stays on at voltages higher than 2.1V, suspect a bad TC54 on an ajoining channel first, then an LM431 on an ajoining channel.

Once all the channels are checked out, then move to the control section - again, without cells attached. You'll only need about 3.6V per cell to get the Version 2.6c board to latch green.

TC54s usually fail as a short circuit - they'll discharge a cell and can keep that same cell from charging.

I hope that helps,
Andy
 
AndyH said:
Disconnect from the pack and run thru the tests to make sure each individual channel is working correctly. The channels must work before the control section will work.

Sure, maybe its time to retest all of the cells. I've tested it before, but since then the board has been through a lot. Your instructions are concise and easy to follow so thank you for reiterating them. I read another forum posting that you had commented on a lot and It helped when I was testing the board earlier.

To my defenses with this, I have a lot of variables going against me and some very strange behavior from everything. My cells act weird, my variable transformer (what I've been trying to use to test) acts weird, my charger acts weird, and of course the bms acts weird. I don't have a single constant to go by to trouble shoot and so many times I have gone on a wild goose chase. Sometimes I was going in the right direction but didn't even now it and thought it was a wild goose chase.

To make my point, I just charged 8 cells in the first 8 channels of the board using my variable transformer set to around 30 V. As far as I know, everything went as expected. The leds started coming on as the cells reached around 3.5 and then were bright and stayed on as the cells stayed at 3.6 V. Each of the leds came on and then then when most of the cells were at 3.6, I needed to turn the power to about 33v on the transformer and then the green led came on fully. The cells were very close to each other and have now settled at about 3.47 V. Everything was silent, no strange humming or buzzing sounds from the transformer or the cells or the BMS.I tested the cells as they were charging and each cell was steadily growing in voltage. I thought it was perfect, or at least as close to perfect that I have ever seen.

The same day, after not even touching the bms, I try charging another set of 8. this time though one led came on and then the rest started to flick on making a "tut" sound every time. There was a humming sound from the transformer and a buzzing sound coming from the batteries I think. The heat sink of the bridge rectifier was hot so I turned the whole thing off. I replaced the lead wire from the bridges output and the wire connecting some of the cells to a thicker gauge, thinking maybe there was a lot of resistance. I don't know why this would matter when It had just charged another pack just a little while ago.

So I don't know why this pack didn't work. Now maybe this is it. the cells in the other pack were fairly close to each other in voltage. In fact only two cell were from another pack so those were the ones I soldered on with a wire but all the cells were fairly close to the others in voltage. Now this second pack is a bit less closely matched in voltage and is made from 3 different packs using good cells from each. I used 14 gauge copper wire to connect groups of cells to make my 8 pack.

Does the difference in voltage really make that big of a difference in the behavior of it charging. I thought I could use the bms to balance them.

Secondly, would mixing cells that still have their original connections ( the coated tabs) with cells that I solder wire to make connections be bad because of the difference in resistance? for example: I have two cells still attached to each other (positive to negative) and I have 4 of these pairs that I put together to make my 8 pack. would this mess the bms up?

sorry, this will be a bit longer I have some questions

You mention that it should start to glow at 3.62 but my cells never get to that voltage they start at 3.5 and are fully lit at 3.6 v. They usually stay at 3.6 and then after I unplug the charger they settle to a lower value. My cells are from used packs so I don't know if thats the reason the drop down lower.

Right now the bms is still a bit messed up. I had to replace the leds in channel 23 and 24 but I'm not using leds with a 2.0 forward voltage. thats why I was only charging 8 at a time.

as far as the cells being off in voltage, since I don't have a single cell charger, could I use my variable transformer set to about 4 V to charge one cell and just monitor it with a multimeter to make sure it doesn't go over 3.7? I did that to some other cells and then they started to charge really fast once they were at a higher voltage and then they dropped voltage after I had stopped charging them to where they were before (around 3.3 V) so I figured these cells were no longer holding a charge and I must have messed them up doing something else.

I also somehow melted one of the dewalt 8 pack cases today. I plugged something in and then suddenly a spark and then fire... I blew the fire out and the cells seemed unharmed (amazingly) but the case is ruined and now I only have two 8 pack dewalt cases instead of 3 so I can't do 24 s cells unless I come up with another way to connect all those wires to the cells without have to solder each individual one since these configurations are only temporary until I get all the cells balanced.

I wish I could talk to someone for just one day. One day were I tell them whats going on, they tell me a test and I do it and tell them the results and then they tell me how to fix it then I do that and tell them whats still wrong so they could tell me something else to fix or check. I've been trying to get this thing fixed for 2 weeks now and thats just for how long I have had this board posted. I've been trying to get all this stuff working for months.

The reason why time is so pressing, and I am so bugged out about this still not working is that this is for my senior thesis. I need to be done and have a working motorcycle by early April or I'm going to fail, as that was my proposed project. I had been looking into this for a year and this bms looked like the best option budget wise, it also doesn't have the amp limits that others have. I have a lot more to do, and If your interested you could go here to read about my proposed thesis (though a bit has changed from that first post) and how its maybe different from others.

sorry this post was long.
If you had the time to read all of it, I thank you. I know there are many points and questions in this please try to answer any if you know about them.

thanks

Greg
 
Sorry Greg - you do have a lot of experiments happening all at once. It does make it hard. That's really why I suggested verifying the BMS just in case - that way you can start at a 'known good' and move from there.

The BMS shouldn't latch off with only a few cells connected - in order to be full green and latch off, all the shunts need to signal that their respective cells are full. To modify the BMS to work correctly for fewer channels, we normally have to remove the diodes or otherwise break the 'all shunts' and 'any shunts' signal lines. If you're getting a full latch with only 8 cells, I fear you're having more fun than I want to have. :wink:

The earlier BMS versions set set to shunt between 3.68 and 3.72V - this one was adjusted downward to closer to 3.62/3.65. It will likely trigger a bit lower with no cells attached - like maybe as low as 3.57 or so. This is ok.

If you can handle it, maybe get a small power supply or a couple of VoltPhreak single cell chargers for testing. The Mastech dual 0-50V 0-5A was about $200 - it's great for testing and charging. You might score a small variable power supply from ebay as well.

I hope that helps,
Andy
 
ok a new day and I'm ready to think again.

I ran to radio shack and bought the closet I could find to the leds that burnt out. The leds are green and have a voltage of 2.1. The closest I could get to 2.05 V. Not sure if it will make the difference I need but it may be better than the red leds I had since. who knows. I'll order the originals on monday.

I cleaned the back of the board after installing the new leds. I used 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol because it was the closest I could get to pure. I used a cheap paint brush at first and then used a new tooth brush to get the more stubborn stuff. After that I used distilled water, just brushing it off with a different brush. It looks good, and doesn't seem to feel sticky so I think I did a good job.

Question: The front of the board is also fairly fluxy and could use a cleaning. Is it safe to expose the parts directly to alcohol or water the same way I did before?

I'm going to test the board thoroughly today. I think I understood how to do the LVC test with a multimeter on diode test.

Question : How do you do it with the led? So It needs to be powered with about 2 volts separate from the test battery and then that circuit broken by the lvc and ground pins? when the lvc turns on then it connects the led to the power?

I would prefer that method so I could use my multimeter to monitor the voltage of the cell when the LVC occurs. I guess I'm just going to wait a little. I have other school work, but I'd be glad to hear from people earlier in the day so I could run the tests and ask more questions if I find something.

My AIM name is odinman88 (its from grade school) I'll sign in today, it's sunday and if your bored maybe we could chat.
thanks
 
Kaplag said:
Question: The front of the board is also fairly fluxy and could use a cleaning. Is it safe to expose the parts directly to alcohol or water the same way I did before?

Double check the flux container or solder - most that are designed for electronic work don't need to be washed off. If they do cause corrosion it probably won't start until after graduation. :wink:

I haven't done this professionally, so don't read anything in to this technique... When I built my first couple of boards I used an old tin of flux that I bought in England in the mid 1980's and while it was probably safe to leave on the board, it just plain looked ugly. I used a nylon bristle car detailing brush (large toothbrush, basically) to scrub in a squeeze of waterless hand cleaner to remove the flux. After a warm water rinse, I used a squeeze of dish soap remove the petroleum-based cleaner. One more rinse in warm water. Then I sloshed the board in 90% isopropyl alcohol and let it drip dry while the oven was preheating to 150 degrees. I shut the oven off and put the board in the oven for 30 minutes to completely dry.

I wouldn't bother if you've used a flux made in the last 10 years :wink: and I probably wouldn't touch the top of the board as a bit of flux residue is much better than possibly damaging parts while trying to scrub around them.

Kaplag said:
Question : How do you do it with the led? So It needs to be powered with about 2 volts separate from the test battery and then that circuit broken by the lvc and ground pins? when the lvc turns on then it connects the led to the power?

Exactly! Think of the opto output as a switch in a series circuit - switch, battery, LED.

Good Luck!
Andy
 
AndyH said:
Kaplag said:
Question: The front of the board is also fairly fluxy and could use a cleaning. Is it safe to expose the parts directly to alcohol or water the same way I did before?

I wouldn't bother if you've used a flux made in the last 10 years :wink: and I probably wouldn't touch the top of the board as a bit of flux residue is much better than possibly damaging parts while trying to scrub around them.

It may not need to be cleaned as you said, but it is very old. It was something that I took from my grandfathers workshop. I mean no one makes things in a tin anymore. Here is what it looks like. My tin looks just like that first one, even a bit beat up : ]

cool, I'll get to testing in a bit, I never would have figured that out with the led back when I was first reading the test instructions because I didn't understand the parts and what was actually happening. I know a lot more now about how the parts work but still I mix up some things.

thanks for the quick reply Andy.

Greg
 
OK the results are in.

LVC Test:
channel 4, 5, and 8 don't work. Must have blown them when I forced the Main led to go green thinking it was supposed to.
Channel 23 and 24 don't work. Need to study this more, but I may just be because of the wrong LEDs.

Shunt Test:
All channels light up when I put 4.5 V to it. Maybe I should try to regulate that power with a pot to make sure they all come on at the same voltage point.

Charger control logic:
I'm not even going to bother until I get the other channels fixed.


Whats next?
I'll need to order more parts so at least I'll be able to get everything in one shipment, assuming I figure out all the things I need today.
AndyH said:
If the LVC doesn't work, chances are it's a bad TC54. The resistor and ILD2 are pretty tough to kill.

For the shunt side - it's likely the LM431, then possibly the BD136.

If the LVC indicator stays on at voltages higher than 2.1V, suspect a bad TC54 on an ajoining channel first, then an LM431 on an ajoining channel.

I'm not sure what you mean by stays on at voltages higher than 2.1v. Let me explain exactly what happens, and what I thought was normal behavior.

The Set Up: 10k pot to a cell whose voltage is a little low around 3.0V but should still do the trick. Next I have a 4.5V power supply (3 AA batts) positive going to a 150ohm resistor going to the positive of an led. The negative leg of the led connects to the LVC pin and the GRD pin connects back to the negative of the batteries. I believe this would work, as you say like a switch.

Doing the Test: here is how I think a good channel goes. I have a multi meter reading the voltage of the pots output while connected to a channel. I start the voltage at around 2.8 V and then lower quickly to about 2.18 from there I go slowly until a point were I can't really tell the exact number but It's around 2.10 that the led comes on, though dim.

the reason I can't tell the exact number is that the voltage suddenly drops below 1.8 or something (I don't remember the exactly). I always assumed that since the path was open that something must have changed and the channel was then feeling more resistance.

After it drops I start to turn the pot back (counter clockwise) to increase voltage again. As I do this the LED gets brighter and then suddenly the voltage goes from 1.8 or so to 2.8 and the led turns off. Now If this isn't supposed to happen then I might as well give up now since from my very first tests using only the diode test on my multimeter had this sort of jumping voltages when moving back and forth between the 2.1 threshold. As I said, I assumed this was normal, but if it isn't what would cause this?

For channels that I assume are broken. the led does not light up, there is no voltage drop and the voltage goes from 2.3 - 1.3 smoothly.

I'll run the Shunt test more thoroughly using the 10k pot to adjust the voltage to see when exactly it begins to shunt. Besides that I think I should order 5 or more TC54, 2 or more orange LEDs, Some smaller resistors that I had pulled out and replaced with equal value but fatter ones and thats about it.

I have on me 2 optocouplers. 2 BD136, and 2 FAN431. I don't expect to need them. But I'd rather order things all at once so If you think I should get anything else, let me know.

Thanks
 
Better Shunt test:

So all of them light up bright at 4.5 but what do they start at. It changes for everyone and as there were some weird things with the lvc test there was also some off stuff with this.

Some of the first few cells came on at 6.2, but the majority of them cam on at 3.65 but the odd thing is that I had the pot turning a bit more and it didn't increase in most cases. The led grew brighter as I turned it but the reading stayed the same. I'm guessing it is far more accurate to use a test device like Andy's that can output a precise voltage that way you know what voltage it is and your not just getting the feedback from what the multimeter feels. At least that is my guess to the odd zone of the voltage jumping a bit and staying at the same point even though I'm turning the pot.

I've got 2 vids.

the first is the LVC test. You don't need to watch it is a bit long. Just have it here incase my explanation in the last post was confusing.

[youtube]y52cTDsb33U[/youtube]

This one is the Shunt test. Again its longish. the green led of channel 24 lights up but 23 is really messed up for some reason. It's hard to see the green since the luminosity of these are only 6.8 compared to 300 + of the orange. Some odd stuff, I'm really worried about channel 23, it's the one that has strange resistance readings on the 120 k resistor compared to all the others (even 24) and the transistors have strange readings. not sure whats going on. I think this one might need a new TC54 since I replaced just about all the other parts, including the opto and it also doesn't LVC right.

[youtube]LanwhxpJC4w[/youtube]

I don't know. I think I'll finish cleaning the other side of the board it's developed a white residue from when I cleaned the other side that looks like it could cause trouble. and I kinda want to add that 25 pin Dsub connector to the wires so I can tidy them up and have clean connections.

My hope is that I order the parts, get them, replace a few bad things, and then run all the test and they all work. Then I will know for sure the bms is good. After that I'll work with the charger, which as I have mentioned a few times turns off on its own and does not show any voltage unless it feels the cells. It's a bit nerve racking trying to turn pots in an open charger next to huge capacitors while connected to my precious cells.

I'll e-mail Jack at e-city tonight. I'm not sure if he even wants to reply to me since it's been a while and I'm basically going to ask him if he can tell me what each of the pots do. Opening the charger Voids the warranty but at this point I know the charger works, it just has some settings that need to be tweaked. I already got it's voltage to 92 from 86. Fechter said that going over 88.8 v by a few was needed. I think the other thing I may need to tweak is the output amps and the cut of amp value.

Question: can someone explain how to get a good reading of amps from a charger? This is how I think it is done. hook bms to cells, hook charger negative to bms at the charger negative part, then hook charger positive to positive of multimeter and then multimeter negative goes to BMS at charger positive part. I set the black lead in COM and the red one in 10 AMP port on the multimeter.

When I did that before it was something really low like .4 A or something. Is that because the cells were close to full and the BMS was cutting the current? Should I try it with lower cells in the beginning?

another long post.
once again, thanks for anyone who reads these.
 
For standard electronics flux, I have typically cleaned it with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol. 95% or higher, if available (the rest of it is water, and sometimes leaves discolorations). I use a Q-tip to dab it on and rub it around flat areas and surfacemount components, and a brush like this to scrub around everything else:
View attachment PEX-360-368_280_280.jpg
I've seen them called "tech brushes" or "acid brushes". The really cheap ones tend to lose hairs all over the surface you're cleaning, so get good ones. :) Or recrimp them yourself across the holder. I'm not stingy with the alcohol, either, and tend to basically wash the board in it from top to bottom, usually in some type of container to catch the drippings.

Now, for the flux you actually have, if it is that exact kind, it's made of Zinc Chloride, Ammonium Chloride, and Petroleum. Depending on how old it is the surface portion of it could have reacted with air and moisture and formed other impurities. :) But to clean it off may require something different than just alcohol/etc. This is the MSDS for it:
http://www.dunton.org/archive/MWDuntonCo/msds_solderingpaste.htm
 
Hey, all.

The parts came in... I replaced the leds, swapped the resistors for their smaller counterparts, and replaced six or so 2.1V voltage detectors.

It seems in order but I won't get my hopes up until someone can verify it.
The LVC test worked for all of the channels. There is that moment when the voltage drops right after it hits 2.12 or so. I believe that is just the way it is when the LVC is triggered. Please let me know If I'm wrong about that. But the test led comes on for every channel right around 2.12 V and goes off when the voltage goes above 2.1 V.

The shunt led of every channel also works. Using 3 AA batteries I can light up every one. I haven't tested it with a pot to see what voltage they start to come on. If anyone thinks I should take the time to test all that let me know.

Here is a video of what I think is the charger control logic working properly. I'm using my variable transformer for this test and controlling it's voltage output. When you hear a clicking sound that is when I am turning it on or off. You can see the voltage on the multimeter.

[youtube]GX3K5C4gNz4[/youtube]

If a few people could just verify that the BMS is in 100% working order from this info then I will close this thread. If There are any other tests I should do to be certain that the BMS is completely good, please let me know.

This thread was for getting the bms working, to me it seems like I have done that. I'm happy to remove this variable from why I haven't been successfully balancing my cells. It may just be that I will have to open another thread more specific to helping me mode my charger to work for the cells and bms, or even one on whether my charging connections between the cells look good and how to properly charge A123s.

thanks for your time, please let me know If this is enough to say the BMS is working.
Greg
 
Yep! that's exactly how it should behave. The voltage trip point looks perfect.

Now you can try it with cells attached.
 
Great! Well I guess, I'll close this thread down.
Thank you everyone who helped. I may have given up on it if it weren't for your encouragement and support.

The lesson here is to have someone experienced look over your soldering if your new to soldering on boards.
Also the tests may appear to work but cold soldering points can cause trouble.
If you haven't tested the board in a while, rerun the tests. You may have fried parts in the mean time.
And lastly, try to stay calm, it will work out eventually. I hope that someone can find my mistakes useful.

Thanks again,
Greg
 
I have a 10A charger that I bought form EVasssemble, it is designed for 72V LifePO4. I have just been trying to install my 24channel BMS and it seems to work OK, I performed the tests for the LVCs and the shunts as described, and they work for each channel.
When I connect my charger, it charges the cells and the orange LED's start to light, but before they are all lit, the charger seems to decide the pack is full (it's LED turns green), and shuts off the charge.
Does this mean the cells haven't had a chance to balance properly?
My charger has a cut-off at 87.6V 0.5A
My BMS has the 250mA shunt
 
flexy said:
I have a 10A charger that I bought form EVasssemble, it is designed for 72V LifePO4. I have just been trying to install my 24channel BMS and it seems to work OK, I performed the tests for the LVCs and the shunts as described, and they work for each channel.
When I connect my charger, it charges the cells and the orange LED's start to light, but before they are all lit, the charger seems to decide the pack is full (it's LED turns green), and shuts off the charge.
Does this mean the cells haven't had a chance to balance properly?
My charger has a cut-off at 87.6V 0.5A
My BMS has the 250mA shunt
That's normal, flexy.

The V2.6 BMS has a ~3.7V shunt point (3.68 - 3.72V). To get a full charge "according to the BMS", you'll need to feed the pack 88.8V to 89.3V. The charger is set for 3.65V per cell. The BMS will properly throttle the charger and keep cells from going over 3.7V, and the charger will shut off at the end of charge.

If the charger was set to a higher voltage, the BMS would shut down when all the cells hit 3.7V, and the charger would continue to try to charge the pack.

Andy
 
Does this mean the low cells in the pack will never be brought up to full charge, using my existing charger?
 
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