New 52V21Ah battery was stored for 30 days fully charged. How bad is it?

regan03

10 mW
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Jun 18, 2020
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I've ordered a battery from UPP and they've sent it fully charged. 30 days was the shipping

How bad is this for the battery? It has Samsung 3500 cells.
 
Not actually "damaging" as such

but takes a few cycles off the back end.

Dangerous and illegal though
 
I'd contact them and complain and try to get a few bucks back or something. It's not good for the cells and who knows how many cycles it could have taken off of the back end. They should know better.
 
What was the voltage on the battery when you got it?

I've bought three UPP packs in the past two years. Always shipped at nominal cell voltage of 3,7. I wonder if they ever charge them.
 
regan03 said:
I've ordered a battery from UPP and they've sent it fully charged. 30 days was the shipping

How bad is this for the battery? It has Samsung 3500 cells.

By "fully charged", do you mean 58.X volts? Because that's fully charged for a 52V nominal battery. 45V is just about empty.
 
Yes, 52V usually means 14S for LI chemistries

56-58.8 as charging V

42V resting much lower than you want to allow for 0% SoC
 
Balmorhea said:
regan03 said:
I've ordered a battery from UPP and they've sent it fully charged. 30 days was the shipping

How bad is this for the battery? It has Samsung 3500 cells.

By "fully charged", do you mean 58.X volts? Because that's fully charged for a 52V nominal battery. 45V is just about empty.



By fully charged I mean battery's display shows all lights green, which should suggest battery is fully charged or close to fully charged.

I don't have a multimeter to measure the exact number of volts.
 
docw009 said:
What was the voltage on the battery when you got it?

I've bought three UPP packs in the past two years. Always shipped at nominal cell voltage of 3,7. I wonder if they ever charge them.

Not sure if what you mean is 3.7V is good or bad. I'm quite new to this ebike thing.

Have not measured the voltage with a multimeter, I don't have one. The battery's display lights shows it full. Which I guess should mean is 58.8V or close to that. Far from the recommended 40%-60% I guess.
 
Lets go back to the real world. If you are gonna use this thing much, you will have it full charged most of the time. How you gonna ride it every day, unless you keep it full and ready to ride? It will be full so you can hop on and ride anytime. Yes, it costs you some lifespan, but a decent battery lasts 2-3 years, even when stored full. When winter comes, you need to store it full so the bms does not drain one or two cells empty, ruining the battery. Better would be disconnect the bms, and store half full. But in many modern bike batteries you cannot easily disconnect the bms. So if that is the case, store it full. Less wear on it to store full, if its cold. Recharge it monthly all winter. Little harm stored full and cold.

If you will use it only on weekends, charge it only on friday, and store it during the week half charged.

To restore the battery to balance after winter storage, or the shipping, charge, let sit 30 min, ride around the block, charge. Repeat this a few times to spoof the bms to balance the battery repeatedly, filling up those few cells that power the bms while it sat.
 
Maybe the BMS is set to limit the full charge to something less than 100%. Lights on the pack don't mean that much: the four lights on mine are all lit at about 80% charge. Anyway, you can make up for whatever loss occurred by taking the extra step of only charging to full right before you use the bike, and leaving it at very roughly 40-60% charge when it's sitting.
 
Go buy yourself a multimeter right now. Everyone needs a multimeter.
 
dogman dan said:
When winter comes, you need to store it full so the bms does not drain one or two cells empty, ruining the battery.

Had no idea about this. I thought during the winter I should store the battery 50%-70%, not full charged.
 
80% soc, and check it frequently. Or just keep riding through winter too.
 
regan03 said:
By fully charged I mean battery's display shows all lights green, which should suggest battery is fully charged or close to fully charged.

I don't have a multimeter to measure the exact number of volts.
You need to get one and learn to use it.

Blinky lights can be **very** inaccurate and misleading.

All readouts from chargers, balancers gauge s need to be checked / verified with a known good DMM.


 
regan03 said:
Had no idea about this. I thought during the winter I should store the battery 50%-70%, not full charged.

No precision is required, lower is better, so long as the cells are isolated from BMS or any other circuitry

and you ensure they never get any lower than 3.1 or 3.2Vpc.

Also cooler the better.
 
DD is right **if** you want the bike to be ready to go, your usage patterns are not predictable.

Storage means "while not in use" ideally even overnight but in practice say a few days at a time.

Someone only using it for shopping trips and commuting to work can optimize for longer lifespan more easily.
 
I keep my packs at 50-75% so if I need them full or near full I only need to charge for an hour or at most two before leaving. I have yet to wear out a lithium pack.
 
regan03 said:
By fully charged I mean battery's display shows all lights green, which should suggest battery is fully charged or close to fully charged.

I don't have a multimeter to measure the exact number of volts.

Ahh. This was my first suspicion. U,P.P. ships their packs at nominal voltage, which is going to be around 48V if you had put a meter on it. You cannot really go by the battery display if it''s a digital readout.

Anyway, as someone else already pointed out, it's against the hazmat regulations to ship a fully charged pack. and no one wants the huge fines if caught doing that.

So I think there's nothing to worry about,
 
regan03 said:
Balmorhea said:
By "fully charged", do you mean 58.X volts? Because that's fully charged for a 52V nominal battery. 45V is just about empty.

By fully charged I mean battery's display shows all lights green, which should suggest battery is fully charged or close to fully charged.

Unfortunately, that's not what it means. Those crude capacity checkers are notoriously inaccurate and not proportional to state of charge. I only use them as an indicator of "OK to run" or "not OK to run" when I'm testing a new e-bike conversion. In my experience, when they show anything less than completely full, the battery is already tired.

Maybe they're calibrated for SLA cells or something? I don't know, but they don't work as you'd hope.
 
I suspect that the purpose of those lights is to encourage people to run the vehicle at less than 100% SOC. I get 4 (all) lights green at about 80% SOC and that's plenty of charge for most rides. Since they are built into a modern lithium pack I don't think they were meant for SLA packs.
 
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