The Mighty Volt
1 MW
icecube57 said:
Thats what you were saying, I remember now.
We need more flavours for sure, this ebike business is nothing if not about customization but Crystalyte-Europe.com insist on offering HS or HT, period.
New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)
- Thread starter vodka
- Start date
Thats what you were saying, I remember now.
We need more flavours for sure, this ebike business is nothing if not about customization but Crystalyte-Europe.com insist on offering HS or HT, period.The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Looking forward to it Wojtek, be safe!wojtek said:OK i tested the top speed using my GPS
39-42kmh at 46.5v depending on how flat the road was...
44-45kmh at over 49v
but i dont trust GPS - would like to verify on normal bike computer.
tomorrow videos of starting uphill at 23%
wojtek said:crystalyte 48v45a / zippy 44v25ah 20c
tyres: schwalbe marathon front / odyssey dirt path rear so not really least rolling resistance! + it is a full suspension trike.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29748
top speed - i will go check now but i assume around 45kmh - will confirm in 1-2h ok?
just need to install the GPS as the f**** xlyte released the sensorless controller that does not quite work with CA but their own solution is not ready yet!!!
wojtek
100 kW
rui_fujino said:thats cool ride u've got there
I hope the result are goin to be good! I thought their APM-Display has speedometer??
you are right but is it on sale now? i think it is still "under development"
wojtek
100 kW
I never used 9C and have not looking into details of this motor. But according to ebikes.ca:
"The good news is that Crystalyte is now producing a new HS/HT motor series that is based on the same efficient motor construction style as Nine Continent, but with much better mechanical fit for bicycle and disk brake compatibility"
But I think the only way to improve HS /HT is by working closely with Ken. Maybe creating a HS/ HT Premium version with all the mods that now FARFLE is offering. He's great guy, i dont want to put him out of business
, but for end-customer it is easier , faster and cheaper to get a motor that is properly made in the factory in first place. Also much better option for the distributors / vendors as they won't risk high amount of returns.
If all ES and related vendors would speak one voice to Ken about the improvements, would that change the xlyte HS/HT motors' reputation and performance dramatically at a very low cost i believe. Even if Ken will increase the price by 30-50USD for the modified motor, that is so much cheaper than asking Ilia or whoever sells these motors to pack and send the motor to Farfle, let Farfle do the great mod-job on them, and finally send over to the end customer.
Especially if they are based outside of USA.
"The good news is that Crystalyte is now producing a new HS/HT motor series that is based on the same efficient motor construction style as Nine Continent, but with much better mechanical fit for bicycle and disk brake compatibility"
But I think the only way to improve HS /HT is by working closely with Ken. Maybe creating a HS/ HT Premium version with all the mods that now FARFLE is offering. He's great guy, i dont want to put him out of business
, but for end-customer it is easier , faster and cheaper to get a motor that is properly made in the factory in first place. Also much better option for the distributors / vendors as they won't risk high amount of returns.If all ES and related vendors would speak one voice to Ken about the improvements, would that change the xlyte HS/HT motors' reputation and performance dramatically at a very low cost i believe. Even if Ken will increase the price by 30-50USD for the modified motor, that is so much cheaper than asking Ilia or whoever sells these motors to pack and send the motor to Farfle, let Farfle do the great mod-job on them, and finally send over to the end customer.
Especially if they are based outside of USA.
The Mighty Volt said:
wojtek
100 kW
the promised video: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29769
Spacey
100 kW
That is pretty high power though, I've dropped mine down to 2,000 watts and it still gets pretty hot at the end of 12 mile journey. 66V 30amp
Andje
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2010
- Messages
- 779
absolutely. I just figure at some point another hot rodder might search through this thread. This is more of a "Here there be dragons" then a "Abandon all hope". I saw excellent performance all the way up to 5kw at 100v. IMHO you would need to rewind it with thicker wire to reliably carry higher current then that. I am looking into companies that do rewinds in Ottawa, and i'll post if i find something cheap.
wojtek
100 kW
Spacey said:
hi Spacey,
what controller are you using? Lyen sensorless? what speed do you get at 2000W constant?
I noticed that my xlyte 48v 40a controller is getting hot much quicker than the motor. At least in touch... I am also planning to change from 44v to 66v but will prob modify the motor first - make holes in covers and put some fans to blow air inside as lowracer did.
deVries
100 kW
Spacey said:
Thanks for the info guys!Andje said:
Have either of you tried any cooling mods? I wonder what one could do safely volts/amps with cooling vents? Also, what could be done with cooling holes & fan(s) too. I know several of these motors have already been modded with cooling holes/vents, and probably a few with fans too.
Any ideas, comments, opinions, or experience?
I put fans in my X5 and it made a very huge difference. I can ride at 5-15kw for 1kwh and not over heat it!deVries said:Spacey said:Thanks for the info guys!Andje said:
Have either of you tried any cooling mods? I wonder what one could do safely volts/amps with cooling vents? Also, what could be done with cooling holes & fan(s) too. I know several of these motors have already been modded with cooling holes/vents, and probably a few with fans too.
Any ideas, comments, opinions, or experience?
Yup I used a ice cream bucket and cut it up and used it to make a duct to direct the air to the windings. And I have some cheep 12 volt fans run 4 in series to a 100v supply so they run at 25 volts each. Moving any air with a fan will help big time the holes in the sides of the motor dont help much on their own.Andje said:
wojtek
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
valuable experience sharing - that is why we love ES so much - thanks!
Are you using any filters to prevent some unwanted rocks ect from entering the inside of the motor? I think lowracer was using some but other members dont seem to have any issues without them actually.
Cool idea about the ice cream bucket and cut it up and used it to make a duct to direct the air to the windings - any pics? 8)
deVries
100 kW
Yes, I've been reading many posts in that cooling the X5 thread. :wink:Arlo1 said:
Did you document your cooling technique with video or pics? I'd love to see the mods you did for cooling. 8)
Uhm its there someware.... I think the number was ~ 160 degC for a ride in 8 deg wet weather and then cooled off the motor then tried the fans and was ~70 degC both the same run and both with a charged battery. I am working on a ducted fan system now.deVries said:
theRealFury
10 kW
Well, just thought id post an update to my experiences with the HS3540.
Last week i finally got round to ditching the 36v li-ion battery, the one that cold only put out 800w and didnt like it either. Stuck on 4 zippy flightmax 6s 5000mah in a 12s 2p configuration and charged to 4.15 per cell. Total voltage went from 41v on my li-ion to 49.8v on the lipo. Still using the same 25a cotroller as per my signature.
Before i get onto the motor just let me say WOW to the lipo. 0.7v sag at 22amps (as apposed to my ~4v of sag on the li-ion), lipo really is the dogs danglers.
Ok, well first thing i noticed straight away was that the motor lost its silent running than i had talked about in previous posts in this thread, with the lipo it now has a gritty rumble from 0 to about 15mph then it settled down into a quiet cruise. You can definately hear it when you twist the throttle now. Not sure exactly what has made the difference but im now running at a peak of 1.1kw as apposed to the 800w so i wouldnt have thought that an extra 300w would make such a difference to the noise of the motor. I did check with the old battery pack to make sure i hadnt damaged the motor in any way and it stil runs as quiet as a church mouse with the li-ion pack. My only conclusion from this is if you want a quiet running HS then run on 36v and 20amps, you can still reach 25-27 on the flat and 30 with a helping wind and you wont even know your running the motor yourself.
Now with the lipo i can hit 30mph on the flats and i reached 35mph with wind assist the other day, it also goes up hills ALOT better than when it was on li-ion, still need to help it on the 15%+ inclines but it pulls well up your average hill at around 16-20mph now. Unfortunately the cheap fets in the $30 keywin controller are beginning to show now i have a decent battery, after a 200meter ~15% hill climb with pedal assiting at around 15mph the controller was too hot to touch, im guessing the outside case was about 70-80 degrees as i had to pull my hand away very fast. Motor was barely above ambient and didnt get any warmer in the 5 minutes i waited for the controller to cool down so 1.1kw really isnt letting the motor break a sweat. Next stop is a lyen 12fet extreme controller.
Last week i finally got round to ditching the 36v li-ion battery, the one that cold only put out 800w and didnt like it either. Stuck on 4 zippy flightmax 6s 5000mah in a 12s 2p configuration and charged to 4.15 per cell. Total voltage went from 41v on my li-ion to 49.8v on the lipo. Still using the same 25a cotroller as per my signature.
Before i get onto the motor just let me say WOW to the lipo. 0.7v sag at 22amps (as apposed to my ~4v of sag on the li-ion), lipo really is the dogs danglers.
Ok, well first thing i noticed straight away was that the motor lost its silent running than i had talked about in previous posts in this thread, with the lipo it now has a gritty rumble from 0 to about 15mph then it settled down into a quiet cruise. You can definately hear it when you twist the throttle now. Not sure exactly what has made the difference but im now running at a peak of 1.1kw as apposed to the 800w so i wouldnt have thought that an extra 300w would make such a difference to the noise of the motor. I did check with the old battery pack to make sure i hadnt damaged the motor in any way and it stil runs as quiet as a church mouse with the li-ion pack. My only conclusion from this is if you want a quiet running HS then run on 36v and 20amps, you can still reach 25-27 on the flat and 30 with a helping wind and you wont even know your running the motor yourself.
Now with the lipo i can hit 30mph on the flats and i reached 35mph with wind assist the other day, it also goes up hills ALOT better than when it was on li-ion, still need to help it on the 15%+ inclines but it pulls well up your average hill at around 16-20mph now. Unfortunately the cheap fets in the $30 keywin controller are beginning to show now i have a decent battery, after a 200meter ~15% hill climb with pedal assiting at around 15mph the controller was too hot to touch, im guessing the outside case was about 70-80 degrees as i had to pull my hand away very fast. Motor was barely above ambient and didnt get any warmer in the 5 minutes i waited for the controller to cool down so 1.1kw really isnt letting the motor break a sweat. Next stop is a lyen 12fet extreme controller.
Tincan
10 W
My HT3525 turned up today.
Took some pics here
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24077&p=431338&sid=57d123ccb0c5fbefdbdbf7e70fab80fb#p431338
And yes, it's fkn heavy!
Took some pics here
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24077&p=431338&sid=57d123ccb0c5fbefdbdbf7e70fab80fb#p431338
And yes, it's fkn heavy!
Tincan
10 W
Arlo1 said:
Compared to the cheap shit things I have previously been using....
Spacey
100 kW
wojtek said:
47.9mph .... alledgedly
Cheeseboy
1 W
Hey I thought I'd add my experience into the mix. Pretty standard.
I got one good ride in with my HS35 and it worked really well (running with 48v 10ah of lipo) But alas, a Hall failed before I could ride it again.
I have the motor open beside me and it turns out the whole stator is electrically connected to the ground wire of the halls, I don't know what that means but it seems REALLY weird to me. I can't find where the ground is shorted to the stator. I'm another one who has had the wire damaged by the rubber sealer and the insulation has come right off.
The performance was great when it worked, I just wish there had been some actual testing of the motors before they started shipping them out!
I got one good ride in with my HS35 and it worked really well (running with 48v 10ah of lipo) But alas, a Hall failed before I could ride it again.
I have the motor open beside me and it turns out the whole stator is electrically connected to the ground wire of the halls, I don't know what that means but it seems REALLY weird to me. I can't find where the ground is shorted to the stator. I'm another one who has had the wire damaged by the rubber sealer and the insulation has come right off.
The performance was great when it worked, I just wish there had been some actual testing of the motors before they started shipping them out!
Kiwi
1 kW
A thread detailing improvements to the HS before running, has begun on New Zealand website www.ev.geek.nz
http://www.ev.geek.nz/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=162&p=351#p351
Good pictures and description.
http://www.ev.geek.nz/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=162&p=351#p351
Good pictures and description.
Tincan
10 W
I never even ran mine up with the stock phase wires and there was cutting from simply turning the axel.
Some good tips there kiwi, I was contemplating removing the seal as well, it's in there at the moment with the new wires and additional hall wires and has been running constantly now for about 5 hours so I'll remove the when and see what kind of damage is done and go from there. Most likely I'll remove it.
I'm toying with the idea of making the channel deeper to take the wires a little safer but need to be careful of making the axel weak.
Really unimpressed with the quality of this motor. I have always run cheap hub motors with no issues like I'm having with the supposed "best" that I have purchased this time.
Some good tips there kiwi, I was contemplating removing the seal as well, it's in there at the moment with the new wires and additional hall wires and has been running constantly now for about 5 hours so I'll remove the when and see what kind of damage is done and go from there. Most likely I'll remove it.
I'm toying with the idea of making the channel deeper to take the wires a little safer but need to be careful of making the axel weak.
Really unimpressed with the quality of this motor. I have always run cheap hub motors with no issues like I'm having with the supposed "best" that I have purchased this time.
Philistine
100 kW
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 1,736
Thanks for the link to the write up Kiwi, very clear.
I am in a dilemma myself. After all my torque arm issues, and spinning my HS35 (in two seperate bikes), I would have presumed my phase wires would be shredded. But after I finally got everything running sweet on my Greyborg, I have probably put 100km on my HS35 with no issues at all. Now I am in the dillema of whether I preempt any problems and rip it open and do the mods. If the screws weren't such a pain to get off, I would do it. I haven't tried with an impact driver yet, but with a screwdriver I just gave up. Is it hard with an impact driver?
Seeing as I have a spare controller, part of me is tempted to just tempt fate and wait and see if I get a short. To be honest, I am not even that tempted to upgrade my phase wires, because I don't think I need to be slamming anymore power into my motor. I am running 20S @ 40amps, and after a hard 10km ride, my motor is extremely hot to the touch, and starts giving off that bad varnish blackening smell. Do people know what I mean by that smell? It was the smell I smelt just before I smoked the windings on my 9C. I had been intending to knock my amps up to 50amps, but personally i think I am running my motor close to its limits. Didn't Nicobie smoke his on 3.5kw?
I am in a dilemma myself. After all my torque arm issues, and spinning my HS35 (in two seperate bikes), I would have presumed my phase wires would be shredded. But after I finally got everything running sweet on my Greyborg, I have probably put 100km on my HS35 with no issues at all. Now I am in the dillema of whether I preempt any problems and rip it open and do the mods. If the screws weren't such a pain to get off, I would do it. I haven't tried with an impact driver yet, but with a screwdriver I just gave up. Is it hard with an impact driver?
Seeing as I have a spare controller, part of me is tempted to just tempt fate and wait and see if I get a short. To be honest, I am not even that tempted to upgrade my phase wires, because I don't think I need to be slamming anymore power into my motor. I am running 20S @ 40amps, and after a hard 10km ride, my motor is extremely hot to the touch, and starts giving off that bad varnish blackening smell. Do people know what I mean by that smell? It was the smell I smelt just before I smoked the windings on my 9C. I had been intending to knock my amps up to 50amps, but personally i think I am running my motor close to its limits. Didn't Nicobie smoke his on 3.5kw?
