New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

the HT will consume less amps at the same speed (in theorie but i could be wrong)

but since you'll be using 24S Lifepo.... the HS motor would be overkill :wink: you'll be going 100km/h with the HS :lol:

so for 24S lifepo, the HT motor would be perfect! loads of torque for less amps + a nice top speed (think it will be around 60km/h)
 
Yes I have a lot of crashes with 48V lifepo4 and HS3540, the max speed is about 58 km/h.
Yeah I know I have to slow down, but I can't :lol:

Most of time I am riding at 40 km/h so the HT is a better choice according your advice (thanks)?
This time my goal is speed/torque and distance performance....

Also I have ordered some M12 1,25 nuts, but they don't fit the HS3540 axle.
I am missing something?
 
sn0wchyld said:
Just wanted to revive this thread somewhat to post a bit of a warning, going back to the 'ol wire cutting issue...

some like me did a 'fingernail' mod, where a U shaped piece of steel/alloy was inserted into the wire grove to cover and protect the wires from the cutting issues...

All I can say though is REMOVE THE SPRING in the seal... after about 1000km I've taken my motor apart to make some mods (cooling etc) and found that the spring that holds the seal in place had actually cut into the stainless steel thumbnail cover!! by the looks it'd take a thousand or so km yet to cause an issue but still... these seals are so bad that they will cut through steel, not just wires!! :shock: :shock:

so to all those who used the fingernail mod on its own, make sure to check it asap, and make sure your not having the same problem leading to cut wires a few 100 or 1000 km down the road! and if you see gouges in it at all, pull out the spring asap!

hope it helps save some motors!

ps
cooling these things makes 'em brilliant! :twisted:
Click to expand...

How do you remove the seal and the spring? I've searched all over and can not find out how. I've got 160km on my HS3548 and the seal has nearly worn through the plastic cover/trim protecting the wires. Help! :)

Is it possible to just pull out the seal, or do you have to take the motor apart and remove it from the inside? (Yes, I've tried to just pull it out, but so far it has resisted my efforts.)
 
Have you done that? I've tried and it won't budge for me.

I was planning on pulling the motor apart to take the seal off (assuming the seal attaches from the inside.) But I can't - the screws holding the motor plates on are glued in, and even with heat and a manual impact driver I can't remove all of them. (5 out of 9.)

So even if I do pull out the seal, I have no way to open the motor up to check it for rust, spray with protectant(sp?), etc. I'm stuck.

Colin
 
ColinB said:
Have you done that? I've tried and it won't budge for me.

I was planning on pulling the motor apart to take the seal off (assuming the seal attaches from the inside.) But I can't - the screws holding the motor plates on are glued in, and even with heat and a manual impact driver I can't remove all of them. (5 out of 9.)

So even if I do pull out the seal, I have no way to open the motor up to check it for rust, spray with protectant(sp?), etc. I'm stuck.

Colin
Click to expand...

afair you should be able to remove it with thin pliers. the seal is damaged afterwards. but it should work.
if you can't remove the screws it's because you probably didn't use the correct screwdriver. i only use the highest grade ones and didn't have a problem removing all of them, even though they where glued in with epoxy.
now that you already tried to remove them it seems the heads are damaged already, so you still can drill off the head and then use pliers to remove the remaining screw.
 
Yup I didn't remove motor panels to remove the seals.

But yup those panels are hard to remove.
I had to using a big long screwdriver and was able to remove all screws.

The new motor version has some hex screws, but these screws are bad quality....!!!
You can't find any hex key to fit them..I had to use torx bit and punching out all screws.

New motor has now hollow axle, so shaving issue should be solved now.
Only I don't know the strength of the axle looks very weak now...
 
ColinB said:
The screws I was removing were stainless steel (soft) and small hex heads. The hex heads were already damaged; I imagine just from installing them.
Click to expand...
you know that those are METRIC screws? so it's metric heads as well. you need high quality hex screwdrivers for them, as, as you said, those stainless steel ones are quite soft, and if the tools is not a perfect fit it will damage the edges and you will not be able to remove the screw.
normally i replace those screws with torx screws once removed. those are by far the best. :)
btw: i don't know why they installed those small head hex anyway. the are the worst to use.
 
I just went to the ca ebike simulator and tried hs3540 that I have against ht3525. It was 5% less efficient. At set speed 39,6km/h continuous grade of 5% but seems to be the average difference betwen the two.

I use 20s but will try out 22s this year before the winter which ill go down to 16s. Also I have 50a controller and like to try out 60a or 80a controller. What about going 23s or 24s lipo, will this stress the controller, anyone using it successfully without sad stories of over-killed controllers :D

In enslaves video with 80A controller acceleration looks promising. I like that acceleration.
10- 50 km/h 3 seconds
50- 60 km/h 1 second
60- 70 km/h 1,5 seconds

THAT IS FAST!
 
I ran my hs at 100v 90 amps for over a year without frying it, but like you say mostly short bursts of acceleration, typically under 4kw continuous. In the 26" wheel phase wires and motor got toasty after a hard ride and I had to be mindful not to over do it. I swapped to a 20" wheel and I found I could run the motor full blast without much reservation and the difference in acceleration and efficiency was very good.

You don't need to remove the side cover to get the seal off. Just yank it out with some needle nose pliers. I damaged mine during removal and have been running it fine without it for a couple years now and that's through rain and snow.
 
What will happen if I remove some weight from the hs3540... I read some guy doing it, the guy that had a lecture on youtube and put carbon side covers. However what is the real performance gain in real numbers? The losses are rigidity and strength.

I did some internet search. Inertia and weight calculations. I don't know If I got it correct. Difference on 0% grade, plain road was 0% performance gain, any weight reduction should ONLY increase acceleration but with what numbers?

Say 1 kg/ 2 pounds of weight reduction *Dreaming*. I used inertia numbers calculating with a 10 to 1 ratio for "total ebike weight and a passanger" to motor reduction weight so I removed 10kg of total weight for the 1kg reduction from the motor. The magic numbers was 6% performance gain on 15% grade hill WOT. By setting the throttle to 50% it did give 15% performance gain. With performance gain I mean wh/km reduction. Did some extended research and it seems to be gains from 5-15% in 5-15% grades.

These numbers are just imaginative. I need to know how to calculate inside motor weight, performance. Say is it this easy? 10hp in motor and 10kg weight of hub motor, reduction of 1kg means 11% performance gain... might be interesting.

Today I drove my HS3540 hard as ever. 13km in 15 minutes, I removed 2min 40 sec for a battery change :p
 
Calculated with f=ma... using 85v 50a hs3540 and pin each Force per acceleration in delta for 4 seconds and 4 theoretical measuring points from ebike.ca.
how

F= ma, say 140N in 10kg hub * a --> ( /10 to get the a)
14 = a
Point 1. = 14 (add motor efficiency at point *0,2 and *3,6 for km/h)

Get new Force, get new efficiency to use for point 2.

Speed from start to 4 seconds in km/h, no wind

10kg hubby
1. --- 10
2. --- 20
3. --- 35
4. --- 53

9kg hubby
1. --- 11
2. --- 23
3. --- 41
4. --- 60

Its a nice about 11% increase
 
My 3525 runs great but is of poor quaity the axle is metric but a machist found the americam nut worked just fine. the rim is shit the spokes to fat. And a funny clunk in the motor. As I paid 150usd i will use it till it breaks. Yes have taken the motor apart three times and replaced bearing and look all over for the clunk. It could be a crack in the stator or ? I too have removed the seals as it cut thru the wires.
 
To magicpie in Holland - I just read this thread and noticed in your July 28, 2013 post that the M12 nuts didn't fit. I have a HT35 hubbie that I got last October, and its axle is the "american" thread of 1/2" x 24TPI (threads per inch). I have no idea why Crystalyte did that, but that's probably why your M12 nuts didn't fit.
 
999zip999 said:
My 3525 runs great but is of poor quaity the axle is metric but a machist found the americam nut worked just fine. the rim is shit the spokes to fat. And a funny clunk in the motor. As I paid 150usd i will use it till it breaks. Yes have taken the motor apart three times and replaced bearing and look all over for the clunk. It could be a crack in the stator or ? I too have removed the seals as it cut thru the wires.
Click to expand...

The 'funny clunk' :shock: you can hear is probably the stator windings touching the cover at one spot.
As Crystalyte doesn't take it too exact with they tolerances, I have found that the axle are not pressed straight into stators. You can see the 'wobble' if you clamp the axle between tips in a lathe and run it slowly, its very obvious to see.
Also the side covers have their bearing seats and the runner not machined in one process, so there is wobble potential as well.
So stator wobble and cover wobble can sum up that in the worst case the windings are touching the side cover.

To check, open up the motor (but not before marking the cover positions on the runner. Look for discoloration in the recessed section of the covers, and for shiny flat spots on the copper windings.

Sometimes the scraping noise can be eliminated the following way:
  • mark side cover position on runner
    undo the screws of one side cover and remove them
    turn side cover by one hole, insert screws again and tighten them
    test for scraping noise
    repeat the process 9 times (test every position of cover)
    Now lets say that for 4 side by side positions there was a scraping noise, and 5 positions the noise did not occur, then fix the cover in the third (or middle) position where the space between windings and cover is at its maximum

Tip: you can use a plastic hammer to tap down the windings.

Also check for string knots wearing through
 
For people wanting to replace the axle nuts on the H series motors, 35 and 40 sizes the thread is 1/2" x 20 tpi, commonly called 1/2" UNF.
Side cover screws are M4
 
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER said:
Thanks all for replies! 8)

Also I have bought Bmsbattery M12 torque arms, but those don't fit at all!
The axle is not M12? :evil:
Click to expand...

Nope. Theoretically it's 12.7mm, but I have measured 12.8 to 12.3mm outer diameter on threads.
Honestly H-axles are real S..T :!: ... Soft S..T :lol:
 
Thanks! 8)

Yup the axle is super soft! just had a crash and axle is deformed :shock:
I don know why Crystalyte still use this crap axle.....

But hopefully the new version HS3540 has less wobble problem...
 
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