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New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

Andje said:
new top speed set today using 65 amps battery 160 amps phase; 90 km/h.
The acceleration is slow and steady past 70 km/h. I'd say it would take at least 6-8 seconds to hit 90 with block time of 5

Nice. I normally set my primary current reasonably high with a shorter block time. So I can pull 80 amps all day long but spike over 100 when needed. I don't really need these restraints but block time is great for n00bs to give them good power but prevent them melting motors or phase wires when they try to lug their 150kg ass up a steep hill without pedalling. In that case lower current and long block time is the way to go.

Out of curiosity are you running advanced timing ? I'm still yet to get my new H series motors but I know with my 9C that when acceleration starts dropping off flicking into 120% timing mode gives a good boost in acceleration that very quickly gets you up to 100% speed, then I flick back into 100% mode to maintain it. This gives you the best possible acceleration without being too hard on the fets by running constantly in advanced timing mode, and is easier on the battery and wiring too as you're not drawing higher current for long.

And yeah, trace upgrades are easy. Go for gold son. If you're going to kill yourself doing 100km/hr on a push bike do it in style :lol:
 
haha. yeah... i'm aiming not to die. Feel like this bike can take it; past 75 there is a definite feeling of scary over exhilarating, but it looks like i have a need for speed. I repair bikes for a living and will upkeep every week so I don't think components will fail catastrophically. I have hundreds of hours cruising at 60+ on my ice bike, 4 years of that. I feel like I can just handle it; or at least that i am aware of the risks and aiming not to die. Maybe i'll get used to it and leisurely cruise at 50 :p... Then again, I thoroughly beat two Harley's that were swerving around in the bike lane ahead of me the other day, and that was the best thing ever on a bike.

tbh that is really useful information. I wasn't aware that the 120% mode was actually an advanced timing circuit; i hadn't considered how it worked. I don't know enough about fets to know if they damage internally when pushed at 120% or if they just heat more; if it's just heat then my controller is good to go at this level, it is barely warming. But tbh i am currently using the 3 speed switch at 40/80/120. I swap to 40 if I'm behind cars stopped just in case. I run at 80 up to about 60km/h then swap to 120 for cruising or to accelerate past a car (really i am at 120% for at least 8 minutes of my 15 min commute). I could change that to a higher base amperage as you say, and run the second speed at 100% if that is specifically electrically easier then running lower amps and using the advanced timing. Otherwise I'm really happy with how it works and am getting used to the 3 speed; already thinking of it as a shifter really.
Need to true my wheels better. Past 85 even tiny imbalances are pretty significant...
 
great stuff!

need for speed sounds like a common ground to most of us here it seems :)

in the end of the day, the worst that can happen is that I die. Can't it be that bad can it? :roll:

so i am just trying to relax and enjoy!

During my long trip last year i just learned one thing - to use proper tyres and inner tubes. I was going downhill over 40kmh alongside beautiful rock walls in the nature and got onto a rock on the road. The tyre blew ... if it wasn't for a bit of luck and the fact that i was riding recumbent, i would probably have applied by now for the position of the patron of the electric bike riders in heaven!
 
liveforphysics said:
Spacey said:
Which was?

Soon...%20soon...
cnbmotor.jpg
 
hahahaha man that's killer.
You've made my photoshop from a year or so ago a reality :mrgreen:

Now it just needs the inscription "To Aussie Jester, with love" :lol:
 
EDIT: are you saying that you were photoshoping a gay orgy? :roll:

Hyena said:
Now it just needs the inscription "To Aussie Jester, with love" :lol:
 
that is pretty awesome. I don't think i'd have the guts to cut mine out like that, but there could be a small business in cnc/lathing custom shaped cooling holes into hub covers :p . Shipping would be cheap for just the covers. You'd have to send your own covers in though unless the manufacturing has gotten so much better that the holes are truly aligned and not drilled custom for each hub/cover slightly out of true alignment.
I want one with lightning bolts or something far gayer then a bunch of cocks :p.
 
Andje said:
that is pretty awesome. I don't think i'd have the guts to cut mine out like that, but there could be a small business in cnc/lathing custom shaped cooling holes into hub covers :p . Shipping would be cheap for just the covers. You'd have to send your own covers in though unless the manufacturing has gotten so much better that the holes are truly aligned and not drilled custom for each hub/cover slightly out of true alignment.
I want one with lightning bolts or something far gayer then a bunch of cocks :p.

.. although if you ask for the cocks shape, you will get leather cycling tights for free!
 
but seriously in my case, i will put the HS on my velomobile- the project is designed mainly for rainy weather obviously as i am an all weather cyclist.

so making the HS as much waterproof as possible is a priority. I can take a lot of cocks if it makes my hub weather proof....
 
wojtek said:
.....in the end of the day, the worst that can happen is that I die. Can't it be that bad can it? :roll:


There are far worse things than death friend.... Like having all your skin peeled off while you sip from a straw and shit in a bag.

I would take death over a thousand other fates.

-methods
 
yes exactly death rocks!
if i were to suffer on this world, i would stop it by putting 10x astro 3220 motors on my velomobile and go for a ride :mrgreen:
OK this is Crystalyte thread , i would put 3xHS hubs with a cross-shaped holes in them on my trike and at least 200v battery


methods said:
wojtek said:
.....in the end of the day, the worst that can happen is that I die. Can't it be that bad can it? :roll:


There are far worse things than death friend.... Like having all your skin peeled off while you sip from a straw and shit in a bag.

I would take death over a thousand other fates.

-methods
 
Hello

Is it possible to install the 3 speed adjustment on the HS with the 36-48 Volt 15A Rear digital sensorless controller.
I mean this one
http://www.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16238&cat=251&page=1
because the thumb regulator isn't no so efficient.
 
I personally won't machine covers for anyone else.

#1. I'm not responsible enough.
#2. I don't mail things.
#3. Now that it works, I've lost interest in doing it again.
#4. My time is too precious to me right now.


However, Methods is welcome to come use the machine whenever, and the program and tooling and fixtures to hold hubmotor covers are all chilling there. He doesn't have the flaws listed in steps 1 through 4 listed above. So, if you want some cocks or whatever in your hub covers, do it through him.
 
so i toasted my HS30 :( It happened while at a conservative speed on the way home, not while accelerating or while at my highest voltage. Still working on getting one of the side covers off, so i can only see the side of the windings with the halls, but there was clearly some sort of phase wire short. It either melted near the solder connecting the windings to the phase wires or it just strait up melted some of the phase wires in place. The rest of the windings are a healthy dark used color, but the only black is arround the shorts and the area it all screwed up. I will definitely be rewinding this motor and i guess biting the bullet with the cooling holes. Until then it is back to a conservative 75km/h top speed on my 9c... unless i melt the phase in that one too.
Sigh... 40 hours of hand labor, here I come. O well, i will end up with something more reliable after I'm done...
 
Andje said:
so i toasted my HS30 :( It happened while at a conservative speed on the way home, not while accelerating or while at my highest voltage. Still working on getting one of the side covers off, so i can only see the side of the windings with the halls, but there was clearly some sort of phase wire short. It either melted near the solder connecting the windings to the phase wires or it just strait up melted some of the phase wires in place. The rest of the windings are a healthy dark used color, but the only black is arround the shorts and the area it all screwed up. I will definitely be rewinding this motor and i guess biting the bullet with the cooling holes. Until then it is back to a conservative 75km/h top speed on my 9c... unless i melt the phase in that one too.
Sigh... 40 hours of hand labor, here I come. O well, i will end up with something more reliable after I'm done...


Re-winding is not much fun.

I bought 40lbs of 14awg.
Determined it's too stiff to work with, though it is possible to get 7-turns on each tooth, and a pair of wires making 4-turns is POSSIBLE, but I was never able to do it without crushing/shorting the insulation. Expect to ruin your fingers before you finish 3 of the 51 teeth.

So, I bought 40lbs of 16awg. It turns out to be just slightly too thick to make a double row of turns (for each tooth, so 4 layers in the slot). It's also pretty hard on the hands to work with, though not nearly as tough as 14awg.

Next I bought 80lbs of 18awg. This wire works pretty well for winding. You're going to need 3-4 strands in parallel. The best copper fill we could manage with 18awg is only a couple percent above it's factory wind though. :(

So, I bought 25awg and 27awg. Both of these wind really damn nice! Easy to get good copper fill percentage, never had any shorting issues, it's easy on the fingers. What isn't easy is making the winding jigs and crap to put 30-40 strands of it in parallel long strings. In fact, after spending ~8hrs trying to create the bundles that we needed, and ending up with 10lbs of copper rats-nest, we scrapped 25awg and 27awg and went back to 18awg, which gets us worse copper fill, but does make the wind possible to do without specialized machines. If I had managed to buy something like 40 x 1/2lbs spools of 25awg, we would happily be using it, because I think we could keep it from being a giant rats nest.


So, back to 18awg is where we are at... It makes re-winding the motor only slightly beneficial for us... but whatever.

Paper in the slots. Get motor/transformer paper. Put it in your slots.
Things that failed (insulation shorted to stator).
Paint.
Kapton tape.
Electrical tape.
Normal Paper.
Plastic film.

All of these things failed during winding.

Transformer/motor paper worked. It's like an extremely fibrous cloth-like paper made for not letting wires chafe through it into the stator edges. Costs about $10 for a giant sheet, 100% worth every penny.


Also, I've got over $600 and >20hrs into RnD on re-winding, and my motor is still only about half done.
 
Luke, are you going to make the race??????????? only 1/2 done......jeezzz, & i thought I was a distracted, procrstinating dufass....5 days & counting down magoo....

I must admit, it takes a prety confident hetrosexual to machine penis's (in quantity) into your motor covers...or is some one close to a "Goodwill Hunting" point of self realization? :!: :!: :!: :mrgreen:

Either way your #1 buddy......I was only going to run a single motor till i found out you were building the Uber "She-Male" drive system. (i figured running 100+ volts would of been manly enough.....)

Anything i can do to further your proccess? I figured Biff would have had your stator completly jambed with square silver wire.... :p see ya saturday. :mrgreen:
 
Biff is doing his damnedest to poke wire at the motor. He is about 10000% better than my personal attempts, but sadly he can't make a hugely long and tedious job into a quick one.


So far, I've got a bare frame, seriously fitted with NOTHING, not even a bottom bracket.

I've got a fork with a special wheel that finally is clearenced enough to fit. The brakes do not mount however now as the damn disk hits by like 3mm... Need to fix that mount.

Need to finish winding the motor, mounting halls, running out phase leads etc.

Need to make rear wheel stay extension/brackets.

Need to do the headset/handlebars/controls crap.

Need to find cranks, bottom bracket and a seat.

Maybe try to get rear brakes setup (mostly just as a back-up if the fronts fade/fail).

Need to program the 116v 450amp Sevcon to work with the hubmotor, and find some place the massive 10lbs controller can mount.

Need to either mount the batteries or come up with a back-pack that can hold them all (28 LiPo packs).

Need to get some test-runs in and try to get seat-time to prove and refine the setup.


It's a lot of work, and I've got a damn cold that has lasted for 2 weeks now...


Ohh, and to top it off, the afternoon after the deathrace, I'm leaving for China again for another 2-3-4-5weeks.
 
liveforphysics said:
Methods is welcome to come use the machine whenever, ... So, if you want some cocks or whatever in your hub covers, do it through him.

You heard it here first gents, all cocks are to go through methods :lol:

Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you Luke. Aren't there any illegal immigrants around you can pay to do this work for you ? :p
 
Andje said:
I will definitely be rewinding this motor and i guess biting the bullet with the cooling holes.

I dont understand the reluctance to drill cooling holes...
For my HS3040 Steve has convinced me to do water cooling - so all you ninnies who are scared of a drip of watter getting in your hug - I will be SPRAYING water in my hub :wink:

-methods
 
tbh i was going to do cooling holes just hadn't gotten around to it quite, and the motor didnt seem hot enough to not run it anyway. It seemed like a hastle until the remedy for not doing it was a 50+ hour rewind job :(.
I think I just put too much through it in the end. Final diagnosis as to why it actually failed will wait till i can get the other cover off properly...
Thanks for the info on rewinding. It will be the most difficult finicky thing i have ever done probably. I will need to make any tools i need, and i will have to do it right the first time since i can't spend infinite hours or $$ on it. BUT. I will get the paper as you say, and if 18 awg is working for you i may do that; as long as i need to do it, might as well go for slightly more copper fill and wires that won't melt through at the power levels i'm enjoying. Obviously any tidbits of insight you can offer into the specific winding process is invaluable, but I won't approach it without a bunch of research into the general theory and practice of winding and such.
You end up with a positive and negative bundle from each tooth, top and bottom of the tooth, and then you group the teeth by three to make 17 groups out of the 51 poles, ordered ABCABCABC... right? That's essentially it? Everything is in series accept the individual tooth windings isnt it? Or are the groups of three paralleled? Watev, i'll figure out the noob stuff on my own :p.
 
Since you were the first - how about I give you one at cost for your trouble?
I think that is the least we can do for the first man on the planet to smoke an HS :twisted: That was the entire point of the buy - to get people testing the limits ASAP.

Then you can keep testing while you rewind, rewind, rewind in the nights.

I will send you a PM.

-methods
 
Andje said:
so i toasted my HS30 :( It happened while at a conservative speed on the way home, not while accelerating or while at my highest voltage. Still working on getting one of the side covers off, so i can only see the side of the windings with the halls, but there was clearly some sort of phase wire short.
Wow, I thought methods or I would be the first to smoke one of these things. If you were taking it easy your phase current multiplication might have been really high which lead to it letting go. Fingers crossed it's just the phase wire join that has melted apart like methods did on his 8x8 and not a melted winding. You'll quickly be able to tell once you pop the other side cover off.
What sort of peak power had you been putting through it previously ? 5kw + yeah ?
 
Hyena said:
Wow, I thought methods or I would be the first to smoke one of these things.....

Pfffffttttt..... Like I even get to ride ebikes anymore :roll:
The motors I set aside for myself were sent to Justin for testing, I gave most of my 24S 15ah pack to Luke... I dont even own a running ebike right now. The only ebike in this house is my wifes :( The only solace is that my wifes bike is more bad ass than most of yours :mrgreen:

My EV miata is in shambles as well - so I am driving it on gas.

The good news is that my TDS 460 scope died today but I revived it by soaking the acquisition boards in 99% alcohol and scrubbing the crap out of them. Surface mount lectrolytic caps spilled their electrolyte all over the board and trashed it....

-methods
 
o as to that, the windings are melted. I can see that on the halls side of the motor. I can also see that one of the phase wires is burnt through and seperated from the coils, i just don't know if that's where the short originated or ended because i can't get into that side to see the black pattern arround the windings and such. The halls and those small wires have all survived, so it can't actually have gotten that hot; i tested the halls just now with a magnet and 5v power source and they are still good to go. They are good ebike.ca halls, but i'm still surprised the windings went first to be honest. The killer controller stats were 100v/65 amps battery and 170 amps phase, 4.5 block time and i was in 120% timing advanced mode. I was at about 94v and 65 km/h steady when it burnt out. My freaking CA is still un calibrated because ive been waiting till i redo the wiring, blah blah blah, no time... so i don't know wattage then or at peak, but i maxed at 94km/h down rideau street, i think there was power left but it was too fast, my wheels weren't true enough for any faster then that.
IMG_5823.JPG
RIP THE FIRST OF MANY
-I expect to pass through this world but once. Any good thing, therefore, that I can do or any kindness I can show to any fellow human being let me do it now. Let me not defer nor neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again.-
 
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